Jack Bennett

To the best of my knowledge the new voltage regulator I just bought to use with the generator is still good. Of course, I will test it before I put it into a circuit again, but, if it is still good, can I use it with a alternator? Granted, it didn’t cost a king’s ransom, but Pennie’s mount up fast, and very quickly become dollars when they are wasted. Jack

Keeping in mind that the only relationship the color of the truck (green) will ever have with money is in a negative sense. I am shopping for a kit with the alternator, coil and starter to convert the truck to a 12 volt system, but I have little hopes of ever finding one. The starter compatibility chart has helped a lot in finding a 12 volt, key start, starter to replace the foot stomp, 6 volt starter, but I am puzzling over a alternator which will fit the flathead six cylinder, Dodge mounts. Remind me, since most alternators already has a built in voltage regulator, where the other two wires are terminated. Jack

I tried to connect a voltage regulator to the generator which was on the 1950 engine I just installed and the generator burned up. I now have the generator, with the cut-out relay, which was on the original 1929 engine, but now the starter burned up. I converted my 1947 Ford 8N tractor from 6 volts, positive ground, to 12 volts negative ground, and used a single wire alternator in the process which worked great. I realize this isn’t a tractor, and you have touched on the reason I posted such a tired and mundane thing as a voltage conversion on the forum. I had no problem with the 6 volt system n the tractor either, but I sure had problems finding a front mount, 6 volt coil for it when the original failed. In my post to the forum I mentioned the single wire because it eliminates both the cut-out relay and the voltage regulator when making the conversion. Any help with a alternate method is appreciated. Jack

I have paused my brain, and shut out all superfluous thoughts which may interfere with logical thinking, in order to closely examine what it is you’re saying, but to save my soul, I am still without a clue. Discussing religion or politics on the forum is banned because they tend to eventually drift toward contention, disagreement, and all too often, reveal that a person is obsessed, rather than recreationally involved. I have no choice but to replace a foot activated starter with a push button starter because the foot activated starter, which is not original to the truck presents a safety hazard to operation of the truck as well as mandates the replacement of a bastard part with another bastard part. You appear to be a wizard of old car magic, so you should be providing ways I can replace a obsolete, and excessively expensive, yet still a 74 year old starter with another 74 year old starter, which is equally unsafe, as bastardized as the starter I am trying to replace, and equally as prone to failure as the 74 year old starter it is intended to replace. Thanks for participating in the forum, and be assured your helpful input is appreciated. I just hope you need some help one day and instead you are reminded of what a fool you are for messing with a heap of metal the elites have abandoned as a worthless cause 47 years ago. Here is what I was looking for, and here is the purpose of me appealing to the members of the forum. I simply asked for a hand-up, and not a foot-up, and it really isn’t welcome in the nether region area to which you aimed it.

I believe you just smoothed a bump in my Fargo road in a manner I never even considered. I added a modern set of gauges, being amp, oil pressure and temperature to monitor the engine as I installed it. While the truck has only a rudimentary electrical system, it still has the dash panel instruments I have looked forward to using after I finish the reconstruction of the cab. The oil pressure gauge is mechanical, so electrics are no problem. But, the fuel tank level and amp meter are electrical, and I am concerned about throwing 12 volts to their tired innards. This little gizmo would solve that dilemma for a reasonable cost and with nearly no effort. I have bookmarked the page and will order one in the next few days. Thanks again! Jack

Most probably, these two photos say more about the reason I play with rusty metal rather than broken wine bottles. Contemplation is taking a relook at what you have done in regards to what you are doing and how it will affect what you need to do. Imagine, if you can, how the folks who depended on this truck to cloth, feed, educate, medicate and provide recreation for their families, maybe 90 years ago feel when the sun starts sinking and the days work on their truck becomes obvious. Can I share this feeling……..you’d better bet I can. Jack

Unlike the 1951 Plymouth Cambridge I worked on a few months ago, the wiring in the Fargo is the epitome of simplicity. I like the idea of using the resistor on the horn, and the increase in the speed of its motor has not been overlooked. The original wiring harness, presently pretty well mangled due to dismemberment of the truck for body work, is all cloth, and is cased in a cloth tube, rather than conduit or tape. As time permits I intend on finding a light weight fire hose to use as material, using my upholstery sewing machine to craft it into tubes, and placing new wiring inside the canvas tubes prior to connecting it into a circuit. I think I can use a more modern, electrically switched starter with the 218ci flathead, and a one wire, 12 volt alternator to do the conversion. Any suggestions here? Jack

Thanks for your very much appreciated comment ABear. Not to boast or give the appearance of having a peacock self image, I will say I am very comfortably retired, and my involvement in the old car arena is 100% for my own self indulgence and entertainment. Had the thread I post to regarding my progress on reanimation of the Fargo been read, it would have been noted that I have absolutely no desire to “restore” the truck to a showroom condition. At the minute I am more concerned with preventing nature from erasing any ability I will have to work with it, rather than “restore a truck used to haul truck parts when it was new. I have made no secret of the fact that I intend on preserving the truck for the day when someone who has never seen a Fargo Express panel delivery truck says…”Can I touch it”?…..”Can I sit in it”?…….”Can I have a ride in it”?…..and I can say “yep” to everything. Very probably there will be purists who spray their wine through their upturned noses when I remind them that I have used brushes and tractor paint to coat the Fargo and much of the wood, metal, screws and upholstery material comes from cast of couches and a old recliner chair. And, it gives me a warm and comfortable feeling to know that I still have the ability to reuse cast off’s for this purpose, and enjoy the feel of the truck when I know I am it’s daddy😄. Jack

I have followed your posts, many regarding old Chrysler and Dodge Brother’s vehicles, made since 2020, and your advice is valued as solid gold. I forgot to mention the horn, and I have included a newly rebuilt 6 volt klaxon to the Fargo rebuild. The voltage change was a major concern so I called one of the well known antique vehicle restoration people and have been assured that, so long as I limit the horns use to short blasts, this should not be a problem. However, I do honor your input, and, accordingly, have done up a second klaxon horn as a replacement for the first should it burn up. Surprisingly, had there been on on the truck, the horn relay would have certainty been a concern. And to anyone familiar with the manner the wiring for the headlights and horn button on this truck is routed, and switched through the steering column, a major concern would have to be regarding the ability of the switch to handle a 12 volt load without eventual failure. Thanks again for your input, and the preceding statement proves that no amount of experience trumps the need for a bit of information from a person not directly involved in the task at hand. Jack

Thanks for your response Fordy. I know with a reasonable amount of surety of what I need, and will do with the old truck’s electrics. But, there is a thousand years experience spread among the forum participants, and when working with a nearly century old truck and a 74 year old power train, it is a crying shame to let this amount of knowledge go to waste. On another forum, more closely devoted to MOPAR vehicles, it was suggested that a resistor be included in the circuitry of the ignition coil. I am thoroughly familiar with the failure of the little ceramic resistor in the ignition circuit of many MOPAR vehicles, but that did not lessen the appreciation for the reminder that, were it necessary, the failure to include one in the Fargo’s new circuitry my prevent a catastrophic, and very expensive, failure of the entire system. Will I include a resistor in the electrical circuit of the Fargo……No!…….but I am sure grateful someone had the ability and concerns to tell me I may need one. Jack

Undeniably….the best non-contententional compliment you can pay another person is to ask for their advice and/or their opinion. There is absolutely no requirement that you act upon this advise, or even agree with the opinion, but the simple act of asking is worth its weight in gold. And, thusly, I do offer some off the wall posts to the forum. If apologies are in order, I offer them also. Jack

I drive my old cars…….mainly, because I can. But I am not excused from equipping them to comply with safety standards expected of modern day vehicles. That includes turn signals, brake lights and head lights that you need to light a match to make sure they’re on. LED’s are concealed in a period correct housing, and 12 volt bulbs can be bought directly from the rack at O’Reilly’s. I can’t say the same for the rapidly disappearing bulbs used in 6 volt fixtures. I cannot buy a new Autolite, or Prestolite, 6 volt starter. And, even if I did pop the $400.00 dollars a new one would cost, it would be installed in exactly the same manner as the one which destroyed itself because of inadequate clearance between the Fargo floor boards and the lever which must provide adequate clearance between the floor and the lever atop the (manual) starter which moves the bendix and engages the motor. And, I cannot even marginally expect a new starter, it being identical to the old starter, which destroyed itself, not to do the same shortly after it was improperly (due to the fact the truck originally had a switch activated starter……rather than a foot activated floor mounted stomp button. I am extremely tired, and have already made up my mind that the Fargo is the last of my old car endeavors. I will monitor the forum though to watch the trials and tribulations the millennials encounter as they attempt to start that old Pinto or get that heavy Vega on the trailer. Jack

Well……..Gee………since the forum is a place for like minded people to meet and talk about the hobby of antique car restoration, and I only have restored four other vehicles, I guess it is time for me to head down to the Bingo parlor or maybe buy a 10,000 piece puzzle to (sedately) work. Had you read the post, you may have noticed that the 1929 Fargo Express panel delivery came with a flathead six cylinder engine, it also came with a electric start, rather than a bastardized stomp button hidden in a unsafe spot under the brake pedal, and a real pain to press because it was so near the accelerator pedal. I concur that the hobby encourages use of period correct materials, and adherence to aesthetics is a desirable, but not always possible, part of a good restoration. A problem I have here though presented itself early into my entry into the hobby. And that was the replacement of the mechanical brake system on my newly acquired 1927 Willys Knight. Being a perfectionist I suppose you are aware that the only period correct, and purist acceptable brake shoe lining for a 1927 vintage car was sold as being “Green”, and has not been available on the common car parts market for half a century. That said, I bundled up my brake bands and shoes and trecked down to Eugene, Oregon to hire a man named Jerry Hiatte, also lauded as a “expert” on antique vehicle friction repairs and replacement to do a “period correct” restoration of the natty, and totally unsafe brake shoes/bands. Jerry had copious quantities of “Green”…….non asbestos…….non metallic…..brake lining materials, and quoted me a decent price to replace the linings on both the front shoes and the rear bands I dropped off. A few weeks later Jerry called to inform me that my linings were completed and I could either come to Eugene to pick them up, or he could mail them to me. Naturally, rather than making another 400 mile trip I asked him to mail them to me. And then, he, bing a notorious expert on antique friction products, asked me why I went to the trouble of making the trip before, and paying a premium price for the “Green” material when Tacoma Friction products could have done it locally, in much less time and travel expenses, and for about 1/4 the cost of the materials he had used. ”Gulp……!”……..being a man of many words, I was exquisitely embarrassed when I found myself totally without a answer. I do agree with you though on the bastardizing of a 95 year old (I call them “zombie vehicles” through use of inert gas welders, chrome and powder coating processes which would make grand-dad shudder and three part acrylic enamels on a truck that rightfully deserved to be shredded where it died in Oregon. The primary reason I work on these relics is because I like to argument and disagreement. But that has proven to fail in cases where some folks use the forum for no purpose other than inciting argument, and disagreeing with anything said, so, I will remove my 80 year old butt to the local bar or get myself a plant to watch, and leave the hobby of preserving history to the “experts”……who are better suited to sit on their couch and attemp to discourage others from spoiling their hobby. There was a recent change in what qualified a vehicle as being a “antique” and was eligible for inclusion into a AACA forum post. That change made a car manufactured in 1995 qualified for antique car status, and made it permissible for cars, presently driven as primary vehicles be considered as hobby vehicles. So much for Jay Leno and his steamers or even Edsel Ford and his innovative changes in a old, and, he felt, stoic line of manufacture so revered and cherished by his father. I have been admonished by the moderators of this forum because I have a tendency to respond to posts other than those I originated, and I was instructed to limit my comments to those which I had originally posted. Thus, I did not post this to the thread I have running under the heading of our restorations, rather, I posted it as a new thread under the heading discussion. The forum is as much about old people as it is about old machines, and there are those whose participation in the hobby is limited to their ability to follow posts on the forum, and offer their responses, which are totally appropriate for maintenance of a one hundred year old car, on this forum. More simply put, some people are no longer able to actively participate in restoration and, agreeably driving, an antique vehicle. But this doesn’t mean that their infirmary or physical/mental/financial difficulties should be a factor in consideration as to whether or not they should be included into the AACA related activities. That includes responding to a mundane and totally entry level proposal to convert a (already over discussed) proposal to convert the electrics of a 95 year old zombie truck from one to another (equally electric) format. See you at the Bingo parlor, or maybe I will be the drunk laying on the floor, that you so irritability trip over as you also frequent the local bar at 80 years of age. Jack

The 1929 Fargo express panel truck I have been working on for the past months has became a continual series of unexpected tasks. Fully aware that the truck was a collection of loosely assembled rust and rot, I was never fooled into thinking it would be a easy project to restore. In fact, were I looking for a pristine vehicle to drive I would have just bought a new Navigator or other SUV, and called it “good”. But, the Fargo appeared to be the perfect investment for a guy who enjoys restoring cars more than he enjoys driving them, and the truck seemed to offer years of tinkering enjoyment in one pitiful package. However, now that I have replaced the original engine, transmission, drive shaft, brakes, and whateve, I was able to start the truck and move it out of the rain to work on the cab interior and upholstery. Then the truck threw me a curve, which may be expected from a 95 year old truck, but unwelcome just the same. Having replaced the flathead (25”) six cylinder engine which a 1950 (23”) engine, it was necessary to modify the brake, clutch and accelerator pedals on the new engine to fit into the shorter, and narrower floor boards of the Fargo…..as compared to the donor Dodge Pilothouse truck, from which the engine came. After some amount of nageling, and a small amount of blood letting, the pedals were completed and declared operational. But, for whatever reason, and here a explanation “why” would be welcomed, the starter, a Autolite MCH 6101 is a stomp activate starter, and the one originally installed in the truck was a electrically operated starter. That causes a problem since there isn’t room on the Fargo floorboards to fit a foot operated starter switch between the brake pedal and the accelerator. But I did…….and it worked real good until the bendix of the starter moved rearward, contacting the windings of the armature, and causing the starter to fail. Now I am experiencing the reality of having to install a very expensive replacement starter into the same cramped conditions as those causing the demise of its predecessor. Or, I can follow up on my plans to convert the six volt system, with which I have absolutely no problem, with to a 12 volt system which includes a alternator, eliminating the need for a generator or cut-out switch, a electrically operated (12 volt) starter and a new (12 volt) coil. The truck already is being equipped with turn signal and brake lights which house 12 volt bulbs, has, currently 6 volt headlights, which can be easily replaced with either 12 volt incandescent sealed beams or LED replacements. The amp meter really doesn’t care, except for a polarity change, or installation of a new gauge, which will probably be required anyway. other than that I see no problem with conversion of the system from the presently installed 6 volt, positive ground system to a 12 volt, negative ground, and, in a modern sense, easier and more economically manageable electrical system. I have been advised of the wisdom that, prior to entering upon any laudable, and most certainly expensive undertaking, evoking the aid of Deity is encouraged. However, in this particular case, I am certain that the consequences of replacing a electrical system on a old truck is of minor significance to a otherwise busy Deity……….... So I am asking for the advice and suggestions of any well versed forum members on the plus, negative aspects of this plan. Jack

Hi Buzz. Thanks for the great reply and the effort of posting it. The 2 1/2” puller you have posted is what I was looking for, and, having found one I have removed the resistive hub and finished up my brakes. I was fortunate to find a four piece set on eBay for $45.00 plus S&H change so I now have the correct pullers to fit my other antique cars also. In the process of trying a variety of other ways to pull the hub I badly damaged the threads and was afraid I’d have to take the truck to a machine shop to get it removed. To restore the threads on the hub well enough to use a puller I bought a device called a “thread chaser”, which worked perfect, and is a tool I’d suggest any antique car restorer be knowledgeable of. Thanks again………….responses such as yours is what keeps the viewing of these forums a valuable part of the hobby. Jack

Ok……all you old MOPAR fans, here is your chance to really help. Yesterday I was starting the engine, I think is a 1951 Dodge Pilothouse,1/2 ton, 230ci, in-line 6 cylinder, which I exchanged for the original engine in my 1929 Fargo Express panel truck. The engine done a rotation and then stopped turning and started making noises like it had seized up. I checked and found that the crankshaft still rotated smoothly when turned over by hand, and decided the starter motor had failed. I removed the starter, a 6 volt starter on which the bendix operated by foot pressure rather than a electric solenoid. Upon disassembly I found that the bushing had failed and the armature had been damaged when it contacted the field coil. This starter has been a real headache since I began work on the truck because, being foot operated, rather than electrically, it has to have a manually operated starter button fitted to work with the accelerator and brake pedals on the newly crafted wooden floor boards. This is a near impossibility because the floorboards of the Fargo are considerably more narrow, and apparently much shorter than those in the Pilothouse were, and there just isn’t enough room to stick a starter button between the accelerator and the brake pedal. So, at bare minimum, the six volt, manually operated starter will need a complete, and probably pretty costly, rebuild. Since the first plans were made to fabricate the new floor boards, replacement of the foot operated starter with an electric one using a solenoid has been on my mind. But, the originality, and apparent good condition of the (manual) starter already on the engine seemed like a waste. But, since the starter needs replacement now, it seems like a excellent opportunity to replace the manual starter with one which can be started with a electrical switch rather than one with a foot pedal. Problem is that I cannot find a electrically operated starter motor that is compatible to that straight six cylinder, 1951 dodge, 218 or 230 CI engine. So, calling all MOPAR experts who can advise me as to what other makes or models of vehicles which use that engine, I.e. DeSoto, Chrysler, Plymouth, etc., use a electric, rather than a manual starter that I can substitute the one I need to replace with. Any leads will be appreciated. And, changing the electrical system from a positive ground 6 volt system to a negative ground 12 volt system, and replacement of the generator with a alternator is a very real consideration to accommodate another starter. Jack

Thanks to all for your kind responses. A few things makes the hobby of ritual blood letting, contortionist and non-certified clinician in the diagnosis of sprains, dislocations, fractures and blunt force trauma injuries, aka……..”Antique car restoration”…….so rewarding is not only the opportunity to preserve a piece of history, it also affords a channel to share it with others. And, in my case, it makes me think, which can be a later in life challenge for some of us mellowed out fellows. It never ceases to amaze me that these old machines do so well at concealing the beauty of their design, the ingenuity of their construction and the true nature of their reason for existing until the process of restoring them has reached some level of completion. Yesterday I began the process of closing the Fargo against the ravages of the weather in what seemed like a pretty cut and dried job of cutting and assembling a puzzle of wooden pieces. However, as has been revealed in previous posts discussing the progress on the Fargo, regarding the wheels, shocks, instrument panel, and so forth, what is missing doesn’t become apparent until a vacant spot materializes in a component being reconstructed, and then the bulb flashes on saying, “That won’t work because a/that/those pieces have to be made to fill a now vacant spot”. It is all too quickly becoming apparent that I was way off base in thinking the truck was an austere vehicle, made to fill a role left when Chrysler Corp. bought out Dodge Brothers, and relocated the manufacture of their light/medium duty trucks to the DeSoto plant in Canada. Thinking this, I had envisioned the truck as a bare bones truck, designed for sale in a market geared totally toward export, and built more as a effort to, using trial and error indicators of what did, and didn’t work in their new line of trucks, than building a truck to appeal to a audience who sought a truck which was durable, dependable, economical, capable, and…..had eye appeal. Now that the interior of the cab is coming together, and it is the roots of the roof structure, it is becoming Chrystal clear that these trucks were not shabbily built boxes of wood, thrown together with nails and some sheet metal. As I progress through the reconstruction I am spending nearly as much time disassembling work I had thought was complete, to make both structural as well as decorative trim which had totally disappeared as aging and rot reduced the structure to muck, and washed it away. At this point I have to advise the “purist’s” that the following content may cause extreme discomfort and maybe even a impulse to regurgitate your last meal. Accordingly, I must warn you to proceed at your own risk. A continual question on the forum is “How much will it cost/How much is it worth” and I have to cite the $2.50, poorly made, and totally disgusting, snow comes we bought while touring Niagara Falls. The choice of being placed in a situation which mandates spending half a thousand dollars for a antiquated engine part, or even a few dollars for a mostly missing manometer, for a soon to fail radiator, is 100% voluntary. Accordingly, I look at my old cars as a hobby, rather than a investment, and whether or not the paint is NOS from a long forgotten stash of 1923 vintage black, or a totally correct wheel stud which runs a $100.00 with S&H is irrelevant, since I will buy neither. Instead, to continue the agenda started above, one of the pleasures I get in doing the old car stuff is the challenge, and opportunity to return the vehicles as you would view them in the same light as you would expect to find a older car you used as a daily driver today. This means that the dent goes untended for a while and a speck of rust on the inside of a bumper is really no cause for concern. Likewise, the material I use in reconstruction of these machines is, in most part, reclaimed from cast off furniture and wood used in pallets, which is available, for free, by the truckloads, everywhere, and everyday of the week. And, the couches have real leather, copious quantities of metal straps, screws, nuts, bolts and toggles not found in Lowe’s or Home Depot, or TSC, and the amount of nifty metal pieces found in a old recliner is mind boggling. For instance, I was stymied by the method I was expected to use to attach a early 1900’s era claxon horn to a 1951 Dodge truck engine, installed in a 1929 Fargo Express panel truck, without making it obvious that I was insane or trying to compete with Jay Leno so far as being vehicularly exotic. One of the metal pieces, which allow the raising of the foot rest on a cast off, decades old recliner chair provided a quick answer after drilling only a single bolt hole. Photos will follow……..eventually. Jack

Most of the restaurants, here in Washington state anyway, offering an all you can eat buffet format, are now closed. I suppose this has to do with what everyone should have been born to understand, that given a excessive amount of anything, the average individual will abuse this over abundance, and eventually harm themselves from over indulgence. What we begin as the hobby of “old car collection and restoration” has the propensity to fit into the category of things we initially begin doing to escape the tedium of paid employment, and through our inclination to gorge ourselves on the over abundance of anything, allow it to become another source of tedium sometimes worse than that we hoped to escape. In less than a month I will become a octogenarian, and, while that may be a laudable feat in terms of avoiding a fatal episode, it has a price extracted in ways considered as “normal effects of aging”. Regardless, mom nature may know little or nothing about antique cars, but she sure knows that it takes a bit more than a tad of wind or lack of daylight to stop a old die hard from tightening that last bolt or cleaning that last inch of windshield prior to calling it a day. ”Mite”, the name I have chosen for the 95 year old Fargo Express Panel Delivery I have adopted as a reanimation project is as addictive as Buffalo chicken wings, those tasty baked beans and the abundantly breaded pork chops, served on the lines of the most popular buffet restaurants (previously) in business. Realizing that it is a hobby, and not a source of income, I often meter out what I hope to accomplish on the truck depending on a reasonable amount of time and resources I intend on expending during that single session. That means that there must also be the expectation, and the amount of time it will require, to go back, disassemble, and redo a lot of the things I do more haphazardly to close a space from the weather or see what parts I need to fabricate to complete the assembly as it originally was. I am now recovering the lower seat I bought for the truck, and have nearly completed building a seat back for the destroyed one I got with the truck. That means that my goals of permanently closing the cab to the weather prior to installation of the newly reupholstered seats, new floor boards and a (now working) instrument panel, and am now reconstructing the recently disassembled truck cab and roof. And, again, the rain began to fall in earnest. Jack

Very few adolescents can pop a cool thousand bucks for a device capable of accessing anything posted on the internet. But their parents can, do, and are ultimately responsible for monitoring how this device is used. That said, I will leave it to the reader to determine the level of responsibility the writer has, as compared to the level of responsibility the parent has regarding what should, and should not be allowed as media posted on a internet web site. To my knowledge, there are paid mediators who realize that there are parents who endorse some really weird things to be taught in schools under the first amendment of the Constitution. And, hopefully, among their qualifications to act as the mediator of a antique car collectors forum is the ability to sort the dung out for disposal and allow the nutritious part of sharing our hobby to be posted. As I rose in rank, and responsibilities increased, while in the Army, it became apparent that; I could please some of the people all of the time. I could please all the people some of the time. But it was impossible to please all the people all the time. So, in fairness, I adopted the rule which states that “It is my responsibility to say it…….but it is not my responsibility to say it in a manner everyone understands”. Implied or factual, that does place a certain level of responsibility of the recipient of any thing posted on these forums either to accept it as it is……change their aptitude and attitude to accept it as it was meant…..or move on to a forum which discusses sewing or horticulture. Jack

Wow! What with the ridiculous amount of money, and resources, spent just to escort us old, Alzheimer’s and dementia impaired guys to a hospice, thanks for the compliment. Isn’t it magnanimous to know that people like me will still be spewing our verbal diarrhea for years to come. And equally laudable is cujos to the brains which developed the innate ability of those who are irritated by verbal diarrhea to simply push a toggle on their internet device to instantly change what they are being bothered by. Maybe, a few more of our flat screen, movie streaming, non-verbal and socially impaired youth needs a tad of the same laxative to rejoin the functional members of a real civilization. Jack

I wonder if keeping a iPad handy to take photos of things you want to study later counts?

Wow! The thing with these antique machines is that they just never stop giving up things to learn. Of course I must refer back to the “oil rectifier” and “sleeve valve” construction of the engine in my Willys. I am still trying to integrate the way my Dodge has no intake manifold and the combination starter/generator. Now you have given me a few more things to feast my mind on with your “invar strut pistons”, “impulse neutralizer” and “”semi-automatic ignition”. It is a certainty that it is impossible for a fan of these marvels of machinery to go to bed with a hungry mind. Thanks again for the information and the thought in providing it. Jack

Still trying to digest the enormous amount of information you sent me. A major problem I have, which is also a Godsend as a aging retiree, when I try to read, and remember, a whole lot of stuff, I tend to forget what I read in the beginning before I get to the end. That’s really pretty cool because it makes everything a new learning experience, and I don’t punch a time clock anymore so there is no one I need to impress with how smart I am. A question though…….I notice that the Fargo trucks appear to have been equipped with shock absorbers. Well Sir, although my old Fargo has some rather exotic mounts on each end of the spring pile up, I can find no indication there was ever shocks on the truck. Am I reading this wrong, or is the shock absorbers built into the rather decorative, and extremely over built spring shackles? Jack

By George Dave. I never noticed that either and I have spent hours looking at that panel. Again, I have no paperwork on the truck and it could be a 28, 29 or 30, and it could have been a Clipper and bastardized with Packet parts over the years. Or, a Packet which was altered using Clipper parts. As the truck comes together, and I fabricate the structural parts, I now realize that the truck had became a parts truck, and the only way I find out something is missing is to make the parts surrounding it, and finding it impossible to connect them without the missing piece. I am curious about the wheel size because, at least the rear wheels, are just too small for the truck. There is room, if the axle was moved a bit to the rear, to fit a hefty set of dual wheels there. Well Sir; I expect the truck will be around for at least a few more decades, and so long as it hides information, it earns its keep and is a source of pleasure even when it is resting. Thanks for your interest and input, it sure keeps the hobby fun! Jack

A paint job is a part of routine maintenance of a “keeper” car. New upholstery is a necessity if smells and unsightly damage to the existing ((I did not say “original”) upholstery make it less than desirable. Tie rod ends, ball joints, a new exhaust pipe, replacing a broken window or having a new oil/temp/ammeter gauge installed to replace non working accessories is just a part of owning a old car, and keeping it operational. Replacing a blown head gasket or leaking pan gasket is not a restoration unless you rattle can a bit of paint on the engine. A frame off, media blasted, ceramic coated frame and a rebuilt engine, transmission, drive shaft, differential, brake system and electrical harness is a good start to a restoration. Or, if you don’t plan on impressing your neighbor, or selling the car on Hennings, it’s just good sense. Jack