NostalgicTXGuy
-
Posts
4 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by NostalgicTXGuy
-
-
7 hours ago, bryankazmer said:
Early vs later 30's is an important difference. Styling, construction, mechanics differ a lot. Ford parts are readily available and cheap, compared to other makes. Fords are much more commonly seen. I'll offer subjectively that you get much more car for the money in a late 30's brand X ( Buick or junior Packard would be be my choice). Comes down to your priorities and what turns your crank.
While I prefer the look of earlier 30's cars in general, Buick's and Packard's of the mid-late 30's have always caught my eye. I've been to the Packard museum. I never considered a junior Packard until it was mentioned by several others on this post because values on older Packards were always way out of my range when talking to owners about their cars. I'll need to find some good sources of info on the 120s and 110s that Ken speaks of. Really beautiful sedans, coupes, etc.
20 hours ago, MCHinson said:For the price of a Model A Ford, you can likely find a driver quality 1937 Buick Special. It won't be a show car, but they were made to be driven. Good luck and welcome to the hobby!
I've been in a few mid-late 30's Buicks and found them to be pretty spacious for a guy my size. Most of my height is in my legs, so leg room is a must.
5 hours ago, Ben P. said:But if it were me, knowing what I know now, I’d make a Model T my first old car all the way.
But as I went about it I’ve owned a LOT of old cars, mostly 1940’s - 1960’s because at the time they were affordable (or I thought they were) and available whenever I wanted one. Most of them followed me home when I wasn’t even looking.
I'm drawn to the T for the simplicity but also because of how passionate the clubs and owners of the cars are. My friend feels the same way since we've heard nothing but stories of how a T will run on pretty much anything flammable, how they tend to start when other old cars won't, etc. It's more likely the exposure to more T owners and stories as a kid that makes us feel that way. In Central PA you could find a T in many older gentleman's garages.
4 hours ago, pkhammer said:A later car will also be a bit more expensive and a little more complicated to work on most likely.
That was a concern I had about later cars being slightly more complicated. Starting out in the hobby I'd like to find something that was a tourer or has been given proper attention so I'm not wrenching for months or a year to get a car sorted for regular driving. So many cars I've looked at have been sitting for years as their owners passed away and the family lost interest. A Hudson Terraplane I looked at had sludge in the gas tank and squirrels living under the hood but was a looker from 20 feet away. Buying the best car I can afford is the most frequent advice I've been told.
20 hours ago, MCHinson said:I would also suggest you join the Antique Automobile Club of America and join a local chapter or region. In the local club, you will likely find people willing to let you ride in/drive various antique cars. That can help you decide what you really like.
I'm joining AACA local and national. Thanks for the suggestion. I think there's value in finding cars that have been well taken care of by passionate owners. Being able to talk to the owners and possibly ride along or even drive a few cars would help so incredibly much right now. I always found cars I never even knew existed by attending Hershey events over the years.
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, padgett said:
Guess first question is "what do you plan to do with it ?" Many Texas Farm to Markets have 60+ speed limits and if do not want to carry a big red triangle, a flathead is nice.
Well, padgett, I plan to drive it for leisure by myself or with family/friends around Texas and Oklahoma and explore many of the small rural towns I've never been to. Once I leave the DFW metroplex I'll have an easier time navigating the back roads. Growing up on a dairy farm, I probably could find a few triangles 😀 Realistically a T is going to be a hard sell in traffic unless it's Saturday morning. A 30's Ford, Mopar, or GM with a six or eight will get me out of town in a hurry.
44 minutes ago, JRHaelig said:Your budget sounds about like mine, so you might want to look at '37, '38 & '39's.
They seem to be in a value sweet spot between the '35/'36 and '40/41's but have great curves in all the right places.
They are a great deal larger than the earlier cars, too. I'm 6' 4" and couldn't hardly get my feet into an A I tried on. I can wear a hat in both of my '39's. Maybe not one of yours, but a ball cap for sure!
You're in a great location to find something, too. Good luck and ask away!
Thanks, JR, I didn't know the earlier cars were that much smaller. I'm also 6'4" and my size 13 feet touch all three pedals in a T! As for 37-39's, if I can get a coupe in my price range, I'm all in. I'm thankful Dallas is close enough to find cars in the Midwest and much of the South. I'll start looking for someone that could show me a few cars to "try on". I'm sure more questions will be flooding in soon as my mind is a sponge for Fords right now.
1 hour ago, Morgansdad said:I will say this from what I've been through personally. When I bought my 1929 model A, I knew(or thought I knew) all things about a car. No sir, the model A is so simple to work on, it's sometimes frustrating. My advice before buying anything is find someone in your immediate area and go to their home (with a mask of course) and talk to them. Try and learn all you can about the car from someone first hand. Most folks are very willing to take their time and show you the car or truck. Remember, those who have one are very proud of them and are more than willing to help. Where are you located ?
I think reaching out to the local Model A club here in Dallas might help. Judging by their website, they're looking to help younger folks get into As and not feel intimidated. I'm currently living in a northern suburb of DFW.
1 hour ago, hidden_hunter said:The Ford’s are almost their own sub genre/culture in a lot of ways, so one of the considerations is do you want a Ford or a car of that vintage
If it’s the latter I’d be looking at like a Buick or Studebaker
I’m in a similar situation to you and have a 1922 Cadillac, it’s not very easy mechanically to work on but drives nicely
I'm looking for a car of that vintage (the 20s-30s) and I prefer Fords, but I'm open to others. To me, it's about finding parts and help without too much trouble. Wayne Carini talks about how wonderful 30s Buicks and Oldsmobiles are to drive, but it seems like many parts aren't so readily available as they are for Fords. Maybe I'm emphasizing parts too much. I've been warned that not all cars from this era are a fun visceral experience to drive, some are more of a chore, so I need to get out and drive a few if I can find an owner that's kind enough to allow me.
1 hour ago, hidden_hunter said:Oh yeah make sure it’s wife approved 🤪
Thankfully my wife supports my hobby (she was a bit reluctant at first) but she came on a rally and now enjoys it.
Have already started indoctrination/education of my newborn with an A-Z of car parts bookYes, the wife approves! As long as I take necessary precautions and keep my head on a swivel, she'll partake in a weekend drive with me 🤣
-
2
-
-
Hello everyone, I'm 32, from Texas, new to the hobby, and committed to getting educated before jumping in. I'd like to discuss the pros and cons of the Ford Model T, A, and early V8 Fords through the lens of the novice hobbyist who is interested in a weekend driver and not necessarily a show car.My family got me interested in old cars. I've ridden in a Model T, A, and 30's coupes. I'm teaming up with a friend who's also new to the hobby and interested in tinkering. I've got little skill turning a wrench, but I'm willing to learn. I also have a limited tool set and no trailer, but I do have space in a heated garage. My budget is under $20k as I'm starting a family.Ts can be found in good condition for less than $10,000 in my area. There's a lot of guys in their 80s leaving the hobby. Many of the cars have been sitting for years. I'm hesitant to buy a T even though I love their simplicity. Suburban North Texas roads that lead to slower country roads are congested where I live. Driving around my neighborhood will get monotonous. Ideally I'd like to be able to jump in and go for a quick jaunt without too much tinkering. The T does appear to be the cheapest way into the early Ford hobby and fun way to master unique driving controls.The A I've been told is as fun as a T and will keep up with traffic. A budget of $12-18k for a restored coupe is what I've been seeing. Parts seem plentiful and cheap. Interest does not seem to be waning as much as with the T crowd.A Shay Model A roadster is $10-12K with the looks of an A and the mechanicals of a 70's Ford. Parts are getting harder to find, with most having been driven sparingly as parade cars, and owners have remarked about the cars not being very durable if driven a lot.Early V8 Fords (32-36 coupes and sedans) are the bee's knees but they also seem prohibitively expensive if you want an unmolested original car. Correct me if I'm wrong, but a 35-36 in driver or better condition for ~$15k is doable. If I decide to jump into the hobby with an Early V8 I'd want a driver or restored car as parts seem to be more expensive and sometimes harder to find compared to As and Ts. 1930's cars in general (GM, Mopar, Citroens) have piqued my interest lately.My plan is to join Ford clubs and learn to drive a T and A, read what's available on forums like this one, and keep looking at cars this winter. Any advice as to pros and cons is much appreciated. In particular I'd like to hear about ownership experiences and how newby friendly each of these cars are for someone with the budget I'm working with. Asking prices and value guides (Hagerty, etc.) seem to vary a lot, so I need to get educated to know what to look for and pay.Thanks!
-
1
-
Advice for First Time Purchase Early Fords and 30s Cars
in General Discussion
Posted
It's been really helpful to hear from owners of a A's and a T's. The feeder roads where I live have three lanes and speed limits over 40mph, but just a few miles outside of my neighborhood it's rural with lots of farm roads. There's also a farm museum close to where I live that offers a class where you get to learn to drive an original 1911 Brass T. The MTFCA has been very helpful. I plan to talk with the Model A club as well. In just a few short days I've been able to put a plan together.
Good to know that seats are adjustable on certain As. I like the 29-30 Standard/Deluxe/Sport coupe, but the Tudor/Fordor seems to have a lot more interior room between the seat and the steering column. I looked at the interior dimensions of a 26-27 T coupe and I may have a hard time steering and using the handbrake.
I found a guy in Central TX that rebuilds T engines, babbitt and all, and watched him rebuild an entire T. I imagine it wouldn't be cheap if I bought an older car that hasn't been rebuilt lately. I'll bring someone that's knowledgeable with me when I purchase, and make sure the car hasn't been run before I get there.
So I'm guessing other Chrysler's from the era are bigger than Fords? From what I've been reading, Fords got much bigger on the inside in the late 30's.
This is really solid advice. The hunt is part of the fun. I'm putting together a checklist for each of the cars I'm interested in. So far I've noticed that not all A and T restorations are created equal no matter how good they look from 10 feet away. Correctness is less of a concern than being mechanically sound since I'll be driving it regularly.
I'd be interested to know more about how these upgrades affect reliability. Especially adding a Ruckstell. Better brakes (even though discs are kind of hideous on a T), and wire wheels would be upgrades I'd want. I just need enough oomph to get 5-7 miles outside of the congested urban area where I live.
The overdrive add on is more common than I originally thought it was. From what I've learned so far, the overdrive units won't overwork the engine if installed and driven correctly. I'll be sure to ask A owners about their experience once I hear back from the local club.