Greacore
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Posts posted by Greacore
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I’d like to have the interior and doors and subframe from that car, might as well throw in the fenders and body.
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Check with your local DMV. It could be worth while. Wisconsin, you just have to post a bond, for 2 or 3 times of the value of the vehicle, for a length of 5 or 7 years. If no claims, you get refund. If you restore it and then there is a claim, they do not get your vehicle. The most they can get is the value of the vehicle when bonded. The extra goes to court costs etc and that’s if it’s proven that they have lawful right to that vehicle. You can then recover that money from the one that sold you the vehicle. You can’t really lose.
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When I was a child there was a junkyard down the street. We used to play in the old cars that were back there. There was one particular car, something like an MG or small car like that, that I used to play in the most. That’s when I knew I loved cars. When I was 18 I bought my first car, it was a Vette. It was white with brown interior. I had to replace the clutch, throw out bearing and pressure plate. Oh yeah, it was a Chevette but it was my only Vette. My second car was a 1970 Mustang. Over the years I’ve had many. Now my forever car is my 1981 Camaro Z28. In my stall is 1966 Mustang, 1922 Buick 6/45 and my 1994 GMC Sierra.
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Grandma lived a block or so south on the Jersey side. This was like watching a family video, Thanks.
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Thank you.
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Hello everyone,
I am rebuilding my 66, first thing I wanted to do, now that’s back from paint, is controlling the outside noise. I understand it will never be as quite as a new car but I am curious if anyone has done anything to make a more quite ride in these classic vehicles? I did lose both pieces of fiberglass that were between the roof panel and the headliner. I was thinking of spray foam for that, Any ideas?
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Thank you !! I will find that piece. Thank you for the picture, it makes sense now.
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Hello everyone, I have 66 Mustang. It’s a 6 cylinder mostly original. My dash pad is rolling up from the windshield. The glass has been removed because I am having it repainted ( getting it back to original paint color). It’s been in storage for two years and this is what I see now. Is there anything I can do to reverse this process or do I have to replace the dash? I expect it back from the paint shop within the next 2 or 3 weeks.
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Hello everyone, trying to find reasons that my transmission just quit working. I was driving uphill, flooring it, and it was like car went into neutral. No noise no bangs, just quit. I have plenty of fluid and I’m sure my pump is working ( I cracked open the upper line going to radiator and fluid immediately started to come out). I have no drips or puddles. I’d like to find out there is something that became unattached before I spend a week dropping the transmission. It is a turbo 350 3 speed automatic w/o overdrive. Everything seemed normal until it quit. Was neither extremely hot nor cold. I only drive 4-5 miles to work. I do drive it like I am 16 but that’s what I’m supposed to do. Any advice that keeps me from dropping the transmission would be greatly appreciated.
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12 hours ago, Mark Kikta said:
The top 3 are compression rings according to the ring expert I dealt with at Otto machine. I soaked, scrubbed and cleaned the pistons and all parts in kerosene and spray brake cleaner. I did not replace anything except the rings. Cylinders were great and only required honing. Also did a valve job of course. Submerged the piston assembly in oil just before re-installing.
Thank you Mark, I think I am getting close to starting this project.
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2 hours ago, Mark Kikta said:
Greacore,
Here is a presentation I put together on my pistons and rings in case it may be of interest/help.
are the bottom two rings oil control rings or are the top 3 for compression? Are these now new pistons or did you clean them?
Did you clean the wrist pins or did you replace them? -
1 hour ago, Rock10 said:
Wouldn't that throw off the balance and performance?
It would have to weigh the same for balance and I don’t think the additional volume would cause a performance issue especially with such low HP. I am not a mechanic but I try to see things in the basic form.
That is also why I am looking for others input, ideas and personal mishaps from their own experiences. My alternative is to junk it. I will never be able to afford the “ up to $9,000” to have this professionally restored. That’s just the motor.-
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39 minutes ago, Hubert_25-25 said:
Top 2 rings should be compression. Third is oil control. If there is one on the skirt, it should be oil control.
What are your thoughts on boring one cylinder? Having just one slightly larger piston?
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10 hours ago, jbbuick22 said:
When you have the pistons out check the bores for taper. You will probably find #6 will have the most taper.
Boreing or sleeving with new alloy pistons is the way to go.
John
22-6-55
I have to bore only one cylinder. I think only one piston will have to be replaced. I am going to do this myself in the driveway.
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9 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said:
Not understanding some items in the piston photo.
- This 4 ring piston has the lowest ring being a compression ring. I would think it should be an oil control ring. No reason for a compression ring here.
- Upper rings have an angled cut for the ring end gap. The lowest ring is a stepped gap. Makes it difficult to set the ring end gap with this angle. Modern ring gaps are usually square cut. Bottom ring is impossible to change the ring gap on, and I wonder if this being a different style came from the same manufacturer as the other rings or someone else.
- disassembled engine internal parts should never be placed on the pavement.
What should the ring order be? This is the way they came out, do you think they were changed prior?
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6 hours ago, Morgan Wright said:
My 1917 had 4 stepped gap compression rings on every piston. I wonder when oil rings were invented. There were no oil holes in the oil ring groove on mine, so fenestrated oil rings would have served no purpose anyway. I did drill 4 or 5 holes in each oil ring groove, and replaced with oil rings. The compression rings I used were square cut.
These do have holes under the bottom ring
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1922 Buick 6/45
a few extra parts
motor needs 1 cylinder bored/sleeved
Has a top, all gauges wheel caps.
Great project car, i have over 6k into it, it’s a steal at$4,200.
located in south central eastern Wisconsin.
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I just don’t have the time to put into this.
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1922 Buick 6/45
a few extra parts
motor needs 1 cylinder bored/sleeved
Has a top, all gauges wheel caps.
Great project car, i have over 6k into it, it’s a steal at $4,200.
located in south central eastern Wisconsin.
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Can I buy new ones or is there a suggested fix? The same cylinder has a small wear grove down the side. Some of the rings nearly disintegrated upon removing from cylinder. Also a lot of carbon build up on top of the pistons. After soaking the pistons in parts cleaner, they really shined up. I will order new rings after I take care of the grove issue on the # 4 cylinder.
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This is the worse one, the only one in fact that looks bad.
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I read in other posts about spacers on the pistons. Is this something I need to worry about or is it part of the assembly that fit back into place. I am pulling pistons this morning so I will find out first hand in about ten minutes anyway.
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1922 Buick 6/45 Touring. I plan on celebrating its 100th birth anniversary by driving it around the country. See you next year on the road!
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On 3/11/2020 at 12:54 PM, Andy69 said:
It's actually a Carter BB-1 517S carb. I ordered the kit and downloaded a manual from the carb doctor. Supposed to be a much better carburetor which I guess is why it was upgraded.
After I saw the bend rod (it's not bent, really, just a slight bow. I guess you could say bent, but not really much) I checked that valve with a rubber mallet then when It looked OK turned the engine over slowly with the crank while watching. It moves ok, no binding or anything, so I think it just needs to be straightened.
I thought maybe the grit was engine bits at first, but I saved some and took a closer look at it, and it's just dirt. A little unnerving to see for a guy who's owned mostly newer cars.
What happened with the rods? Most of mine are bowed as well. Every things to move smooth so I don’t think I will try to straighten them. Did you have to repair/replace them?
Dash cover 66 Mustang.
in Ford Mustang
Posted
Thanks again !!