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Greacore

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Posts posted by Greacore

  1. I guess it depends, for me, how far the radiator shop can go to repair what I’ve got.  On mine, The hose was attached and it seemed pretty secure, it would just be a bummer if it came off/broke on a road trip.  It will not be a museum showpiece but rather it will be a regular driver.  

  2. OK I noticed the input side tube ( the upper) seems to be chipped away a little bit, The bottom one looks to be full length.  What is the bottom tube replaced?  Without any heavy pressure, the top one seems to hold OK?

  3. 41 minutes ago, Hubert_25-25 said:

    The dogbones at Restoration Supply are not correct for Buicks.  They are only sized for the smaller engine Pre 1926 Buick radiator nozzle, and they are 18 threads per inch.  Buick used 16 threads per inch.  They will not screw on. 

    Myers Early Dodge is the Rep for "Vintage and Classic Reproduction" from Australia.  The Buick caps come round in stainless, or Dogbone in brass for you to plate.  Prices on the website are AUD, so convert the amount.  The Buick caps begin with BUI- 

     

    https://vintageandclassicreproductions.com/?s=radiator+cap&dgwt-wcas-search-submit=&post_type=product&dgwt_wcas=1

     

    Hugh

     

    Thanks Hugh.  I will go to the site now and check it out. 

  4. I am on the west side of the lake, north of Milwaukee. The radiator shop I went to is south of O’Hare airport.  I’ve driven to so many different radiator shops and I’ve called numerous more. Am I allowed to say the name?  This is the first place that said they would take a look and give me an estimate.  Radiator shops don’t work on radiators anymore.  Does the Buick club, by chance, do some kind of tour?  You read the forum on projected oil consumption guide?  

    • Like 1
  5. 1 hour ago, Larry Schramm said:

     

    Welcome to the world of "quick" or "easy" rebuilds.  I am into the third year of reassembling a '08 Buick Model F from parts that I picked up in boxes and swept off the floor.

     

    It seems like everything that has to do with the brass & nickel vehicles take months if not years to complete.   

     

    Unless you are very committed to completing a car, it can become like many other cars that are never put back together and are either parted out of scrapped.

    Thank you. I dropped off the radiator today and this is the first real step to completion.  I will not restore/repair this to show quality.  If I could get it started right now, I would drive it through the slush. My goal is to have it running by its 100th and I will tour the west coast then the southern coast.  I would start from Lake Michigan, Detroit.  Hellofa goal but I’m more stubborn and hardheaded than the car will be. 

    • Like 1
  6. On 12/3/2020 at 12:08 PM, Mike Mowen said:

    I own a 22 four cyl coupe and need a radiator cap.  I’ve been leaning towards the dog bone and mono meter how did this work out for you. 

    I am actually taking the radiator to a shop near Chicago this weekend for repair/rebuild. It will probably be the spring of 22 before this thing is on the road.  

    353A7DE9-C5FF-4B4F-9CFE-3C5F96C2B9C8.jpeg

    • Like 1
  7. Do you have to remove the block to clean it sufficiently? I don’t have a garage do I am repairing my 1922 Buick 6/45 in a storage unit.  I can trailer it to a car wash but removing the block would require a larger unit and a hoist.   

  8. Hello all.  

         I have a 1922 Buick 45. My questions are concerning the radiator cap.  Is this year specific? Could I modify a new one to work? Was the “dog bone” style standard equipment or was that after-market? Thank you all in advance for your time.  

    A48B2205-172F-42FC-84A2-43D0831E36FF.png

    • Like 1
  9. Hello, great tips and excellent details during your rebuilds.  I, as well, have a 22/45. Most of my wood is either rotted or entirely missing altogether. I searched to no avail.  What type of wood was used by Buick and also were the floor trim pieces original with the car or did you have to manufacture them?     

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