Buickboy58
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Posts posted by Buickboy58
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Hi FunkyNova66,
Have you check if the horn works outside the car.
When you will remove the chrome center with the horn ring part of the steering held by 3 screws in the back, you will see the spring ground switch contact, if you pull gently and it comes off, it mean that the wire is broken inside and that's probably why your horn is not working.
you will need a steering wheel puller, use a socket or a piece of pipe that will go over the spring ground contact but it has to sit on the edge as showed in the picture. There is no power going inside the pipe that the wire is in, this is only a ground wire that is cutting or making contact with the spring ground switch to continue the circuit.
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Thanks, I found out what was the problem, I have a Cool Carb plate that cut the heat from going under the carb and create vapor lock. I had it installed right on top of the adapter spacer over the intake but I move it up last weekend just under the carb I notice that it was just under the accelerator pump but didn't realize that there is a lever underneath that need to move, well it wasn't moving at all because it was touching the Cool Carb plate, so I removed the carb, the plate and made a slot inside to free the lever and it fix the problem. Thanks for your input.
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10 hours ago, Buickboy58 said:
Hi all,
on my 58, 364, the engine stall when I take off from a stop sign or traffic light. Yesterday, I went out for a drive and It started well, let it warm up a little then drove it until I stop at the traffic, the engine stalled when I was pressing the gas pedal, I restarted the motor and kept doing this every time I would stop for traffic light and even slowing down to almost stopping then re-accelerate, it wanted to stall if press the gas pedal.
I have a Quickfuel carb, 4b, 650 cfm, electric fuel pump, electronic ignition. New spark plugs and wires. It was running fine last fall when I put it away for the winter in my garage, and this happen when I wanted to put it back on the road. I did put some fuel stabilizer before I stored it.
Any idea what could be the problem.
Thanks
Yesterday It's started, but this morning no luck, it wouldn't start at all. The engine is just cranking.
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8 hours ago, usnavystgc said:
It sounds like an accellerator pump issue.
That's what I think, I will remove the carb tomorrow and check it out. Thanks
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18 minutes ago, NTX5467 said:
As you have an aftermarket carb on the engine, what is the hot base idle speed set at?
I don't have a rpm gauge but I would say it around 700-750 rpm.
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7 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:
Did you store it with ethanol free gas and a full tank?
full tank, regular gas.
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Hi all,
on my 58, 364, the engine stall when I take off from a stop sign or traffic light. Yesterday, I went out for a drive and It started well, let it warm up a little then drove it until I stop at the traffic, the engine stalled when I was pressing the gas pedal, I restarted the motor and kept doing this every time I would stop for traffic light and even slowing down to almost stopping then re-accelerate, it wanted to stall if press the gas pedal.
I have a Quickfuel carb, 4b, 650 cfm, electric fuel pump, electronic ignition. New spark plugs and wires. It was running fine last fall when I put it away for the winter in my garage, and this happen when I wanted to put it back on the road. I did put some fuel stabilizer before I stored it.
Any idea what could be the problem.
Thanks
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Finally got the Buick back from the transmission shop, they fix the tranny leak and replace pinion gear seal. Took them 3 weeks to find a seal for the tranny.
Anyway, so this afternoon I try something, I wanted to try to remove the broken horn wire from the tube with a small hook through the small opening down below were the connection of the horn.
So instead, I decided to try to solder another piece of electrical wire on the end of the broken wire at the top of the tube, the wire was about an inch below in the tube, so I prepared a short piece of electrical wire, soldered the spring switch to the new wire, and finally I was able to solder the broken wire to the new one with a small soldering gun after a few trial in that small tube opening and finally it works! I got it fix without removing the steering column. YEAH!
One of the previous owner had the steering wheel off to fix the turn signal switch and they broke the horn wire, so they tried to solder another piece of wire on the end, they succeed but the soldering was not very strong and when I remove the steering wheel the solder broke so that's why I had to fix it again with a stronger solder and put some shrink tube to reinforced the hole thing.
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8 hours ago, SJF1948 said:
I just made the repair to the horn wire in my '53 Super. Not going to go into why the repair was necessary, suffice it to say , I did a dumb thing! If you are handy with a soldering gun the wire can be repaired/replaced without removing or disassembling the steering column. The horn wire in the column is not a power wire, it is a ground wire. It grounds the horn relay to send 12v power to the horns. To make the repair, if possible keep all of the wire removed from the column, you'll need it to measure the replacement wire. On the '53 there is a contact plate on the column under the hood. Disconnect the connector and remove the plate. Under the plate is a slip ring and soldered to the slip ring is the wire running up through the hollow shaft to the steering wheel. You may have to turn the wheel to position the solder joint under the opening. I used a soldering gun to unsolder the wire from the slip ring, the wire can now be pulled out of the shaft. In my case I had to also unsolder the piece of wire from the button at the steering wheel. The short piece of wire in the button came out clean, even left a small hole in the button. I used a twist drill to open up the button enough to pull the new wire stripped end through. I stripped the wire to the length of the old wire, but left an extra inch or so of bare wire to stick through the button. The tricky part is getting the new wire cut to the right length. I found it easier to insert the new wire from the slip ring opening and push it up to the wheel. I used a section of 14 gauge wire, duplicated the bend in the wire at the slip ring, tinned it and soldered to to the slip ring. At the wheel, tin the bare wire, clean and tin the button keeping the hole open. As an extra bit of protection for the wire, slip a section of shrink tubing over the wire, when the button is soldered the shrink tubing will cinch down on the wire inside the shaft. After making the solder joint at the button, simply cut off the extra wire, file or dress the button smooth. This was all done with removing the column or the steering wheel. This works on a '53, but the principle should be the same. And for the curious, believe it or not, the steering wheel can be removed without cutting the horn wire!!!!! Definitely one of those uh oh moments. Hope this helps.
I want to try to replace the wire without removing the steering column.
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2 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:
@SJF1948 one big difference from '53 to '56 is that horn connector was moved to the interior side of the cowl. It is located down towards the bottom of the column, and at the 9 o'clock position. For me it results in a cramped location with no direct eye contact to the ring and solder connection. I am going to assume it is in the same position as mine on the OP's '58.
It is at the same position in my 58, very limited space down there without removing the steering column. I think if I just unbolt the column from the dash and remove the rubber that is around the column going through the firewall I might be able to bring it down low enough to get to the brass ring and install another wire. Can't do it now, it's still in repair.
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I had to bring the Buick for repair again, I had the transmission leaks fix last fall and did a rebuild and started to leak again, still under warranty luckily, also the pinion seal is leaking in the torque tube so I am getting this fixed also. That's why I can't work at the horn wire.
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I have re-install the turn signal temporary to try if it was working and it works like a brand new and a lot more solid.
Now I have to fix the horn wire coming out from the tube.
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2 hours ago, KAD36 said:
Isn't that called yelling….As long as one end of your broken wire is still soldered to the brass ring it sound reasonable - the bend stress on the wire right at the solder joint at the brass ring is usually where the break happens. If the loose piece you have is shorter than the distance to the wiper button in the column you might get lucky…..
The wire is still soldered to the brass ring so I might be lucky.
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I'm thinking about a wireless horn.
I think if I can get the wire out of the opening where the horn connection with a small hook, without removing the steering column, I think it would work, if this works all I need is to soldered another piece of wire and push it back with a rigid wire.
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16 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:
That is why there are dash mounted aftermarket buttons available.
Ben
I'm thinking about a wireless horn. lol
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3 hours ago, lambert494 said:
Here’s a few pictures of a 54. The wire runs through the steering shaft and comes out through an opening about halfway down and connects onto this contact. It’s soldered on. The outer casing has to be removed to access it. Hope this helps
That is a lot of work just to fix that darn wire. Thanks.
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5 minutes ago, dei said:
Sorry I don't know how to access the horn wire to replace it as mine were in good shape. The only thing I had to do was make an insulating gasket at the top of the wire as mine had melted some and would make contact blowing the horn some times.
Doug
Thanks
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Hi all, got another problem, the wire for the horn coming in the steering column tube broke when I remove the steering, does someone know how to get at it.
Thanks
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35 minutes ago, dei said:
Great idea sir.
You have given me a thought as what to do with mine.
I'm presuming those screw heads are not too tall giving you lot's of clearance?
Come back and let us know how it turns out (no pun intended) once completely assembled please.
Thanks, I had to install flat head machine screws under the spring tensioner for clearence and round head for the two other one.
Got another problem, the wire for the horn coming in the steering column tube broke when I remove the steering, do you know how to replace the wire or how to get it. Thanks
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18 minutes ago, GARY F said:
Looks like it will hold.
Oh yes!
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So I decide to give a try to fix it and it worked.
Made a jig to hold it in place and use JB Weld SteelStick epoxy and a piece of aluminum with 4 machine screws (4-40) and it's a lot stronger than the original.
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11 hours ago, mobileparts said:
$90 is TOO EXPENSIVE ????
Well, maybe you'll find one on someone's $ 1 table at HERSHEY ( yeah-- lots of luck....)
That's $135.00 Canadian with ship., I think it is exp.
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2 hours ago, lancemb said:
Thanks, too expensive in CAD.
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Looking to find a turn signal switch for my 58.
This is exactly what I need, (First pict.) Mine broke because previous owners had it welded but broke again.
Thanks
Wheels alignment specification
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Hi all,
I need to replace the tires on my 58 and I want to have them aligned, but I can't find the specs so that the technician can enter the specs in his machine.
Where can I find these specs, I search on the web but no luck.
Thank you
Buickboy58