TerryH
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Posts posted by TerryH
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13 minutes ago, arcticbuicks said:
yes .....very simple....and the carb will just bolt back down ,many guys did do that as they did not understand them,but risk knocking the crank bearings out running RPM too high......but if yours is working why not leave it
It is not running great I am It is not running great I am rebuilding the carb and why not eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. It is a converted to a camper and has an aluminum body so not to heavy will install a rpm gauge to watch my rpm.
P.S thank you for sharing your knowledge I very much appreciate it!!!-
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47 minutes ago, arcticbuicks said:
that one is not as bad as others with different big rubber diaphragm ,it will still need a rebuild and very touchy settings,there is a twist wire seal from the factory setting for warranty i think ,some had heater hose and would not let you rev engine until it was warm enough also
Can I just delete it?
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Hey guys I have a 1955 grumman step van(kinda lol) it was had a new gmc Forward Control Chassis put under it in 1965. So the engine is a 1965 230 I believe. I am wondering what is between my carb and intake manifold? Have attached a few pictures any help would be appreciated my assumption is maybe come sort of heater but pure guess lol
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I apologize if this is a dumb question but for you carb experts what is the piece I have circled? and why do some of the 1bbl rochesters have it and some don't?
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The good old saying "to each and his own" But I think it looks amazing the way it is. And that the chrome fender trim would only take away from it's wicked lines! If it was my car I would go with some nice wire wheels instead but that's me. Beautiful car you have there!!!
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Hi Guys, Looking for feedback from anyone who has experience with the RideTech air ride for the Buicks. My 63 Lesabre needs rear springs and shocks all the way around. So it's time to decide if I go air ride or stick with normal suspension. I am leaning towards Air ride so far. I would probably put together my own air supply system. Only because I have a lot of knowledge pneumatic systems and have access to components and will cost me far less. I like that there is little modification required to fit these bags. I will link the ones I am looking at. any info will be appreciated.
https://www.ridetech.com/product/air-suspension-system-for-61-64-buick/
Thank you
Terry H
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Hey guys that is a bench build cost not including removal/install. His price is $2000.00 to rip it down inspect it and that includes the reseal. any parts cost added on top of that. Now I am in Ontario so that is Canadian $2000.00 +$1500USD ish. I think I am going to go with this shop just because He truly knows his stuff. They pretty well only work on stuff 70's and older and I talked to a few of the top resto shops and they all recommend him. When I talked to them they explained there process and even welcomed me to come have a look as they tare it down and they would show me exactly what it was going to need parts wise. And if my schedule would allow it I would take up that offer mainly just to check out the wonder that is the Dynaflow torque converter! Yes it is alot of money but after talking to the guy and seeing some if his work via his website and Facebook page I am very confident they will do great work. I will leave his website just incase anyone wants to look at it. As always thank you everyone for your advise and info.
https://www.lawrencetransmission.ca/
https://www.facebook.com/Lawrence-Transmission-Services-Ltd-129140677147850
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Hey guys I have my 1963 Lesabre it started leaking tranny fluid out the bellhousing. It was fine I hadn't driven it in a few weeks then all of a sudden it was leaking quite bad out the bellhousing. I got a quote for a rebuild around me in Ontario and they want $3000.00 to rebuild it and like $2000.00 to install external seal kit. To me both prices sound hi! any advise would be great. Tranny has 90xxx miles on it.
Thank you
Terry
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@telriv any idea where to get a plastic air cleaner stud?
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@Bill Stoneberg No I am going to tackle fuel first once thats all worked out will get the distributor. I only want to chase my tail on one system at a time lol
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Based off all the arguments here I took none of your advice and bought a Sniper EFI system to go on it lol! I had the opportunity to pick up a kit at a steal of a deal so what the heck I thought lets open a whole new can of warms!
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Ed you have been a great help thank you!!! Im love learning all I can
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Hey Guys here is my question. Can I index the pinion and pinion nut count the exposed threads. Remove the nut replace the seal and put the nut back in the same place and be ok for preload? It's on a 63 lesabre diff.
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It matches the serial number of the car and the other code was JR87 which makes sense as it's a 2bbl 401 does not say low compression can I assume it's not???
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Jon you may just be right the AVS 2 might be a bad decision. And I promise if it is I will come on here and say you told me so. However this carb was released in 2017. I like enough of the design concepts such as the annular boosters. And worst case is I take it off sell it and find a Carter/Rochester to put on it.
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Thank you Matt. I am not trying to out engineer the engineers of yesteryear. I am only trying to mimic them! in 1963 the 2Bbl option was 280 HP and the same engine with the 4Bbl was 325ish and a extra 35 torque I am looking to match what they were able to do.And if you think you won't feel 40HP I mean come on! I have decided to go with the AVS 2 650 CFM carb. They look extremely easy to tune. I can't find anyone saying anything but good things about these carbs!!! And although I am not yet a Carb "specialist" give me a few months and I will be! My plan of attack is as follows.
I have a factory 4bbl intake manifold. I have already ordered the gaskets for the manifold and carb including the heat shield.
I ordered the adapter for the tranny kick down from Russ at http://centervilleautorepair.com
I have ordered a AFR Gauge I will install.
I will start the process by changing the spark plugs and checking to make sure the timing is all good.
At that point I will swap the carb and intake and start the tuning process.
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Look just cause the 4Bbl car sat there spinning his tires doesn't mean your 2 barrel is more powerful lol.
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Hi JohnD the standard 2bbl in 63 was the wildcat 410 not the low compression wildcat375. Now that being said I have not yet figured out if infact I have the 410 or 375 still researching how to figure that out lol. But assuming I have the standard 410 at 280HP my understanding is that the 4bbl option that as far as I can figure out was pretty much carb and intake was 330HP. And Speaking with a few guys who seem to know there way around the Nailheads there is no doubt that it loves to have the fuel thrown at it. My concern is can I do it safely.
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Hey Guys looking for opinions on what size carb to put my 1963 Buick lesabre 401. It has a 2 bbl in it currently. I have found a 4bbl manifold and have ordered gaskets for the manifold and the carburetor including the heat shield. I also got the adapter for the tranny kickdown. I am looking for options on what size of carb to put safely on the all stock motor. Right now I'm looking between the Edelbrock AVS 2 650cfm and the next size up the AVS 2 800cfm.
Any help would be much appreciated.
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