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Matthew Cody

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Posts posted by Matthew Cody

  1. I used the one in the first link. It's a Wabco accumulator. Worked perfectly and my pump no longer runs as frequently as it did. Before replacing the pump would run for 30 seconds every time I started the car, even after short trips, now it will really only run for 30 seconds after it's been sitting for a week or two. My 91 only had 46,000 actual miles but it was the original accumulator which only is only really designed to last 10 years. The pump running too much can be the accumulator as mentioned above, or possibly a pressure switch. Parts are still available for the Teves system, but hard to find and usually very pricey. Hemi's solution is a proven way to completely eliminate this ABS system for less than a 1/4 of what it would cost to have your Teves unit rebuilt. Another advantage of converting to a non-abs system is you can convert the rear brake calipers which seem to be unobtainable to more common rear disc brakes shared with many Chrysler products from this era (Lebaron, Daytona, Spirit...etc) which uses a separate parking brake mechanism, inside the brake rotor. 

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  2. 16 hours ago, Hemi Dude said:

     

    .2A4A1AE7-247A-4585-92C9-15FE1671F53C.thumb.jpeg.5253ab2d2bed059b3f6e5b9699bdf5e4.jpeg

    1994 Dodge Shadow ES w/3.0L MMC engine and 5 speed manual.

     

    2D54715F-B910-4656-A2D1-7800EF15E9FF_1_101_a.thumb.jpeg.b0f290103c4a75284478a879af78247c.jpeg

    1985 Plymouth Voyager w/3.0L MMC v6 & 3 speed automatic.


    Not trying to hijack this thread but Hemi I absolutely love that Shadow ES-best color/engine/transmission combo. I wish I could find a 4 door ES V6 5-speed. Also that minivan brings back a lot of memories. We had a 86 Voyager LE, black with woodgrain and the 2.6 Mitsubishi engine-never had any problems out of it.

  3. Hemi once again has offered great advice and information. The only reasons to be "scared" with I see with these cars is troubleshooting the Teves ABS system, body/trim parts availability, and mechanical bits for the 16 valve turbo. The rest is pretty much standard Chrysler and generally interchanges with most 80s-90s Front Drive Chrysler products. Like any "classic" car it's very wise to go through it with a fine tooth comb to prevent any possible issues (check hoses, belts, gaskets, wiring...etc). This club has an incredible knowledge base and all the information you could want for you or the mechanic you choose to service and repair your TC. I drive my TC every weekend now that it's summer, enjoy every single mile of it. 

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  4. Hemi once again has provided great advice. These early A604s were terrible transmission-most were replaced under warranty. My 47K 91 still has the original unit and I can't expect it to last more than 70K. Being technically knowledgeable-I'd tear it down and rebuild it my self as it's a pretty simple transaxle. I had a few rebuilt in the past in other Chrysler products, they usually run $1400-$1800 with all updated parts. Another option would be to convert it to the older A670 3-speed auto used in lower trim minivans and passenger cars with the 3.0. It will require some re-wiring but it's a far more robust transmission than the A604 in my opinion. 

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  5. Thanks for the link. My soft top shows it's age, it spent several years in FL without the hard top so it's faded and has a small tare in it. I was hoping to find a complete good used assembly to drop in, rather than the whole top skin. I did that with my old Volvo C70 convertible. Just a few bolts and the whole assembly comes out. 

  6. If the pan was sealed with RTV sealant, make sure you get all the old RTV sealant off of the bolts and inside the bolt holes. They will cause the bolt hole threads to strip in the transmission if you don't. 

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  7. This might be old news for some, but I replaced the original accumulator on my 91 with 46K as part of the ABS system maintenance. As we all know these have a shelf life of 10 years or 120K. My car is nearly 30 years old (2/90 build date) so it's way overdue. Doing some research, the AC Delco part 25528382 is NLA and the Jaguar part JLM1907 is ridiculously overpriced. A little research later I found that the Wabco STC2784 Accumulator is a direct fit and costs shy of $200. It's for Land Rover/Range Rovers and are readily available. The Reatta guys have been using it for a while with no ill effects. I installed it on my 91 this past weekend. Performs great. Before, every time I'd start the car the red "BRAKE" and ABS lights would stay on for about 30 seconds and the pump would run for a while until the system built pressure. Now, even after multiple trips and the red "BRAKE" light doesn't even illuminate and the ABS light comes on for the customary system check and goes off. Very happy with the results. The accumulator is slightly larger then stock but fits snugly. Also performed a brake flush, which I'll probably do again since it had never been done before. 

    https://www.amazon.com/Wabco-Land-Rover-STC2784-Accumulator/dp/B01GURVBAE

    absacc.jpg

    • Like 1
  8. 52 minutes ago, Hemi Dude said:

    Time is running out on the ULTIMATE FIX See our ABS replacement article  Not because the instructions will go away, but your salvage yard stock is depleting.


    That's the way I'd normally do it, but my 91 is an all original 46K mile example and I want to keep it as original as possible. I'm going to replace my accumulator along with a brake flush (never been done as far as I know)...now if I can find a lesser loved 90-91 V6 car I'd have fun, delete the Teves and do a manual transmission swap. 

  9. The accumulator is the same as GM part 25528382 or Jaguar JMC1907. Chrysler discontinued the parts decades ago, the GM part has been "Discontinued" but the Jag part is still available, at a pretty high cost.  I ran those numbers on eBay and found several new units available for around $280+ with positive reviews, they are not specifically labeled by who manufactures them. These accumulators do have a shelf life of 10 years, so getting a "New Old Stock" unit may not be wise. 

  10. 3 minutes ago, Garnet & Gold said:

    Matthew,  

    I like the way the hard top is connected to the straps on the hoist as it keeps the hard top square with the car.  As you can see in my picture the 4 point connection causes the top to rotate slightly and is a pain when I have to walk around the car.  I think I will be changing mine.  Thanks for posting your picture.

    Bob


    It was a kit made specifically for the TC, not sure of the company still exists but I have the paperwork for it. I'll check tonight. It does rotate but it's pretty easy to control and use. 

  11. Top looks beautiful! Mine, despite the cars low original mileage, looks much more worn then the rest of the car. Because for 10+ years it was a Florida vacation home car and the original owners left the hard top in Wisconsin when they shipped the car down there. So it's faded and has a ugly rip in it, not to mention the broken top pull down. Hoping to source a nice used tan soft top. The guy I bought from included a "Top Hoist" which consists of a crank cable pulley system, a special top holding bar and straps. Works well. I wish I had a bigger garage so I can safely store the hard top out of the way. 

    20190811_172229.jpg

  12. I'm not terribly worried about it, my current TCM works just fine, probably the best shifting A604 I've ever owned probably due to it's super low mileage and fresh ATF+4. I'll scope around the connector and see if it has that PIN. I grabbed the TCM because finding any 1995-older Mopar in the junkyards is hard, let alone a 89-91..need to stockpile hard to find parts. 

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  13. A few months ago I was out at the junkyard getting a few things, there was a 89 V6 minivan that had a newer Mopar reman TCM with the latest software so I grabbed it knowing these updated modules improve the general operation of the A604 transmission. I installed it in my 91, it works fine but I have NO lock up function, engine sits at 3500 RPM at 65 MPH. According to the TSB I read, the proper updated TCM number is 4796121 which is the one I have. Is there some kind of modification I have to make to get the lock-up function to work again? The old module works fine, I just grabbed this one because I know these parts are getting scarce and it would be nice to have the latest software to prolong the longevity of the A604. Already did a fluid and filter change with ATF+4 and a genuine Mopar filter. 

    Thanks

  14. Got around to doing the portholes. Used the heat gun trick and it worked like a charm. The right side popped right out (pictured with the removed foggy silicone), the left side took some patience for it to separate but got it off. Cleaned off the old silicone and applied a golf ball size glob of some Lexel clear silicone sealant.  It's gotta cure for a few weeks, which is okay because the top is currently off. Will update with the finished product. 

    porthole.jpg

    porthole2.jpg

    porthole3.jpg

    • Like 1
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