herman de boer
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Posts posted by herman de boer
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Dear sir
Thanks a lot for the information
Your running boards look nice
Now I have a example how I have to do
I will spray the running boards the same color from the car
And order a pair of running boards rubbers by (runningboardsrubber.com
But it is quiet expensive
I love the design of the Dodge coupe
I'm very happy
Thanks and enjoy
Herman de Boer
The Netherlands
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On 12/12/2022 at 8:47 AM, Al W said:
Kris Arneson in BC, Canada made a set for my 1938 DeSoto - exceptional result, perfect match to originals. runningboardrubber.com
Dear sir
Is this also the original running boards rubbers for the Dodge coupe 1938
Because there is no rubber on the side of the board
See photo (pink)
Thanks 👍
Herman
The Netherlands
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Dear sir
Yes, they look great 👍
8 understand what you mean
But you have to live also
Drive around in the car everything looks fine
People smile
That's all about
Enjoy the journey wherever you go
Herman
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Dear people
Lady's/gentleman
I need a running boards rubbers for the Dodge coupe 1938
Somebody now who can make this for me
I will be happy
Herman de Boer
The Netherlands
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On 7/4/2005 at 5:55 PM, cpwalter said:
If you have a fuel tank, know of a fuel tank, or know where one can be made, please contact me.
Dear sir
there is a website in America (Andy braumbouw)
But I try to order but that's not easy from the Netherlands
They have a lot of parts for Dodge cars
So try first over there
If someone want to help me I will appreciate that to make a order for me
Ofcourse I will pay
Otherwise I have to make one by myself
Herman de boer
The Netherlands
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2 hours ago, SMB said:
I don't think the voltage affects the sending unit. It just has to match the gauge Ohm wise. It is the gauge which will need the voltage reduced if original. A runtz voltage reducer will do that.
Thanks sir
I will take a look
Herman
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Dear people
My Dodge coupe is 12 volt
But I have to buy a new fuel sending unit 6 volt
Can I change the sending unit from 6 volt into 12 volt
And how can I do this by myself
Thanks again
Herman de Boer
The Netherlands
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On 11/10/2022 at 1:34 PM, DFeeney said:
I would post your question about a Dodge brothers gas tank in the Dodge section of this forum. I believe that they are reproduced.
I have already some good information about my question
Thanks sire enjoy the day
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On 11/10/2022 at 1:34 PM, DFeeney said:
I would post your question about a Dodge brothers gas tank in the Dodge section of this forum. I believe that they are reproduced.
Good morning sir
Yes, thank you for your information
It's very nice to enjoy the cars history
And driving around like the days before
The design,we don't see that happening anymore
Herman de Boer
The Netherlands
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On 11/10/2022 at 2:49 PM, 30DodgePanel said:
Hi Herman, you have some very good questions. I for one am encouraged to see your interest in our classic American vehicles. Try these guys, I believe they have inventory of the reproduced tank you'll need.
Link for 1938 Dodge parts
1938 Dodge Parts- Vintage Parts From Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts (oldmoparts.com)
Direct link to the fuel tank
Good luck,
Dave
Good morning Dave
This is great
Have a nice day
Thanks
Herman de boer
The Netherlands
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20 hours ago, Larry Schramm said:
Probably not able to use some type of sealer. It should be fixed correctly. If the crack is in the cylinder wall, you can have the cylinder sleeved. Other places, you might be able to have someone weld the crack, but that takes a very skilled person. There is also stitching the crack.
Good morning sir
Yes the people give me always good advice and information
I'm very happy for that
The crack I believe is on a difficult place
So I will try first sealer
It's not the best solution,I know
It's not in the cilinder wall the crack
But more above, a difficult place
Next year I will see
I bought a Dodge coupe 1938
And sold the Volvo Amazon combi
Is there a new fuel tank to buy in America for the Dodge
I can drive around in the Dodge coupe next year
It's a wonderful design and color
It's enjoying when I can drive a car from the early 30
That kind of design is not anymore
It makes living more tasteful
Thanks again and enjoy living
Herman
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18 hours ago, Paul Dobbin said:
Interesstung thread. A lot of good information here too. I would guess it needs a cylinder sleeved as well as welding the engine block.
Keep us posted Herman.
Interesting color combination on the Studebaker, if in America I would guess it to be a Taxi, but not in Holland where cars and Taxis are conservative colors.
Good morning sir
Thanks,yes I now
But I will try first a sealer if that doesn't work out
I will weld the crack,but it is on a difficult place
I like this color combination red/white
I enjoy to see the car this way
Only who spay the car didn't do a good job
I'm angry about that
Yes in my country there are not many people who have a open minded
They are conservative
In that way I like America very much
I hope soon to visit the country
Enjoy your living
Herman de boer
The Netherlands
Bergen NH
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On 10/12/2022 at 1:42 PM, DFeeney said:
Herman, As you know water in the oil is not good Since the car does not run I would pull the head and pan and try to find out how the water is migrating into the engine oil pan. If you do this now you can look for a used engine/block over the coming Winter if needed. When you find out your problem post it on the forum and you will receive expert advice. The cheapest thing you can do is "only fix it once" even if it seems expensive at the time. Keep us posted
Good morning from the Netherlands
I just want to know
If I can use a kind of liquid to solve the crack in the engine
There is coming a little coolant every 15/20 seconds from between the fourth and fifth cilinder under the engine out
I took the pan of ofcoursto see what happens
Thanks again and enjoy
Herman
The Netherlands
Bergen NH
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46 minutes ago, Grimy said:
Herman, if you or a previous owner replaced the head gasket with one of modern manufacture (plastic instead of asbestos in the center), you will probably need to re-torque the head as many as five times before you achieve a final seal. With the old asbestos-center gaskets, it was usually necessary to re-torque only once. At our Pierce-Arrow meet in June, we had a car with a newly-replaced modern gasket but only one re-torque; that car had combustion gas escaping into the coolant and causing overheating almost instantly. Several more re-torquings, each after 30 minutes of running, solved the problem. I prefer to re-torque after the car has cooled overnight to prevent threads being pulled out of the block.
As @58L-Y8 recommends, remove spark plugs and see if water comes out the spark plug holes. Add light oil to any cylinder which has had water. With your cast iron head, I'd want to go only to 55 lbs/ft (please convert to n/m) but build up to it: the first cycle at 25, then 45, then twice at 55. (If the factory shop manual specifies a different torque value, use that one. I am suspicious of aftermarket manuals which often call for much higher torque on pre-war engines.)
Thanks
That will be next summer when I will look at the engine
Thanks anyway
Herman
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2 hours ago, Walt G said:
I agree with an engine rebuild - if an engine is apart you can properly inspect any and all possible issues and once rebuilt properly never really have any problems again. IF you can get another similar motor and rebuild that and then "transplant " it into your car it will save you having to lean over the restored/repainted fenders etc. Working on an engine on a stand is a lot easier and avoids most problems ( trying to reach things) that can occur if it is still in the car . take the time now , it will save a lot of aggravation later.
Sir
Good advice
Thanks
Herman
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2 hours ago, DFeeney said:
It is hard to guess a problem, It could be as simple as a failed head gasket. You need to inspect your engine and narrow down the possibilities.
Sir
I took the pan from the engine
And the engine head also
I good see still coolant inside the engine
The coolant is coming from between second and third cilinder ad the front down under
After one night there is nothing left
So I think somewhere between second and third cilinder there is a crack
Herman
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45 minutes ago, 58L-Y8 said:
Herman:
Dandy Dave's advice is spot-on: leaking head gaskets aren't uncommon when an engine has been rebuilt but not immediately put through the heating and cooling cycles then retorqued to spec's. Removing the spark plugs will relieve the hydro-lock the leaking cylinder has because the combustion chamber is full of coolant which can't be expelled.
If worse comes to worse and it turns out to be a cracked block, the 205.3 ci six-cylinder Rockne engine was the first of a new generation of six-cylinder Studebaker engines that would be transferred to the 1934-'35 Dictators. It was stroked 1/4" to continue as a 217.8 ci for 1936-'37 then the bore increased a 1/16" to the 1938-'42 & '47-'48 226.2 ci Commander Six. Finally, it was stroked again 3/8" to 245.6 ci for the 1949-'50 Commanders. For 1951, the new ohv V8 became the Commander engine but the 245.6 ci six continued as the heavy truck engine through 1960.
Your Antique Studebaker Club members can be of great assistance if you run into further problems. Good luck with your work getting that engine healthy again.
Steve
Steve
You don't know how I appreciate this kind of information
I'm so happy that people are honest and helpful from the aaca
In my country I have sometimes problems with people who do a job for me
And they lying and do there job not 100%
Even when they are professional
But thanks 👍
Herman
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4 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:
Is it in gear?
Sir
No,I don't think so
I will take a look at the oil filter
Maybe I fixed it on the wrong way
I'm not sure
Thanks for all the advice
Herman
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16 hours ago, 28 Chrysler said:
If it will turn backwards it could be a stuck valve or lifter.
Okay
For thirty years I didn't had problems with turning the engine by the fan
Maybe it's because I cleaned up the oil filter.
And put it back in a wrong way
I will take a look
Herman
Thanks
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17 hours ago, TerryB said:
Herman, is this your Studebaker?
Yes it is
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17 hours ago, TerryB said:
Herman, is this your Studebaker?
Yes
I put before coolant in
But there was a crack inside so a lot of coolant was inside the engine pan with the oil
I took everything out and put new oil in
Suddenly after a couple of turns it was stuck
Because of the crack I take the engine out of the car next year
I hope I can fix the crack
I don't want I totally new engine in
I like it the way it is
Herman
Thanks for your time
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12 hours ago, DFeeney said:
You might take the starter off to expose the ring gear. Use a flat bar to crank the engine backward to see if it free's up. This would be a start.
Thank you
I turned the fan around but no turning engine
Someone talk about the engine oil today is not for old timer engine
Very strange
What do you think about
Herman
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18 hours ago, Walt G said:
Remind us of the car you are working on so we do not have to search the forums to try to find it please, thanks.
Okay Walt
It's still my car I'm working on
I took Al the old oil out
And put new in
I don't know why it is stuck
Herman
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Dear people from the AACA
Now the engine is stuck
I don't know why
I put new engine oil in the engine
Turn the engine a little bit
And it's stuck
What did I wrong
Next year I take the engine out of the car to look at the crack somewhere inside
Have someone a explanation
Thanks
Herman
WANTED - Gas Tank For 1938 D8 Dodge Business Coupe
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted
Dear sir
I don't have any photos of the fuel tank because I don't have the fuel tank
Do you have photos
I need a new one
There is a company in Canada who made them
Thanks 👍
Herman