Hearse
-
Posts
131 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Hearse
-
-
I have some vintage Kryoil and some PB Blaster. I'm about to go out there and hit everything with it. I JB welded the corroded part of the AFB baseplate so I'm going to sand that down tonight as well. The new stainless heat shield is on its way from Centerville.
Regarding that stainless plate though, so the gasket goes on the bottom towards the intake, the stainless plate then goes on top and no gasket between the stainless plate and the carburetor ? That's what the Centerville guy said but that seems off to me, why isn't there a gasket between carburetor and the stainless steel plate?
-
I saw that tool Swede, I think I can make something work or I'll stick something through the flywheel to lock it down somehow, I do have a torque wrench that goes beyond 300 ft pounds. This should be interesting lol. 220 foot pounds, great.
-
Well I guess I should hit the front bolts on everything with some oil , is there a place to lock the flywheel or the balancer so I can torque it back to 220 ft pounds? thats quite a bit. This engine has 96k original miles on it, it runs pretty strong . Thank you Tom, Riv Nut, Seafoam .Is there a special puller to remove the balancer once I get the bolt off of it ?
-
Thanks to the guy at Centerville who pretty much insisted that I look at the chain slop lmao, and my dumba$$ is telling the guy I don't have any and he is insisting I check. So thank you, and for the folks here who told me to check, thankfully before it jumped time.
-
The guy at Centerville Auto told me to turn the balancer to check for timing chain slop, I thought I had none but it turns out I can turn the crank a good 1.5 inches forward or back before the distributor rotor moves. I'm guessing it's the original plastic gear chain set. It could be an inch to an inch and a quarter of play before the distributor rotor moves but I know its too much .
Soo...lol , any tips or tricks for doing this nailhead chain set? I've done hundreds of chains sets just never on a nailhead engine. I'm excited now that I know this may contribute to the weird things that have been happening lately.
Any chain recommendations ? I'm not going to race this and neither is my dad. Just cruise it with the occasional throttle mash. Thank you for your thoughts once again .
-
Riv Nut, reminds me of our old Triumph Spitfire a 1975, when it did run, it was fun, but the lucas electronics and weak engineering of everything else was horrid, it was about to get a 302 Ford Swap and a c4 trans until I saw what an abortion the rear end situation was on those cars, sold it ASAP.
-
Yeah I tried different variations of pullers, tools, chains lol..Wasn't happening, not on a tapered drilled splined 3.0 shaft that hasn't had the brake drum removed since the car was assembled.
-
21 hours ago, RivNut said:
A friend of mine, the guy from whom I bought my 65, has a 1960 Cadillac limo. He talks about two things. 1) How well put togerher it is, and 2) how difficult it is to work on. Dual a/c units both of which can be controlled by the passenger. Dual radio controls. The sliding glass petition in the "unmovable" front bench seat. Two kind of upholstery; leather in the driver's compartment and a fine cloth in the back. He loves it though. Especially when he puts on his little black cap and takes all the neighborhood kids through the drive-through at the Dairy Queen.
They are very well built, doors shut like a bank vault. It took me 4 years to find a good used rear brake drum removal tool for the hearse at the cost of 150 on ebay. Even the local drive line shops were unable to remove the brake drum they didnt have the proper tools. Very well built, like the Riviera!
-
Yeah it's nothing like my 55 Bel Air , it is a bit like my 61 Cadillac Hearse as far as build quality goes and the way it is put together.
-
A little bit of it is in the crankcase of the 64 Riviera now, a little in the tank. I've used it for years on everything from marine to go carts .
-
1
-
-
How much did you end up selling it for if I may be so bold
-
The 455 Buick and TH 400 Transmission, pretty bullet proof and easy to work on . Good luck with your new boat tail those years are some of my favorites !
-
Thank you very much sir! and to the other's for the imput. I'm a little leary of trying to take off the exhaust manifold it's never been off, has the locking tabs on them still and have california rust on them lol I can see a bolt snapping off in the head . I might try a 90 degree drill bit in the size you said and see If I can get the rest of the broken tube out of there.
-
Very cool! love those boat tails! especially with a huffer sitting out of the hood.
-
1
-
-
When I had the carburetor off I noticed the portion of the baseplate was eroded around the choke heat passage , almost to the point that it is intruding into the primary butterfly casting. I am speaking with Carb John to see if maybe he might have a good replacement carburetor for her. The carb was also missing that steel baseplate gasket that I see a few of you mentioning. I also noticed the choke tube is broke off at the exhaust manifold and I got most of it out of the brass fitting but is there a better way to fully remove it so I can get a new tube in there? who has a good tube for it? I read that on some Riviera's they had the steel tube running into the exhaust manifold then at some point on the way up it has a section of rubber hose in between? then steel up to the carb choke?
-
On another note, another member here told me to check the vacuum modulator on my car because it was messing up creating a vacuum leak and strange idle. He was 100 percent correct.
-
I just went through this on my 64 AFB, I had to buy a simple rebuild kit, and go through it 4 times , the final time is when I had compressed air and blew out every passage on the idle and secondary circuit, the air horns, every damn circuit on it. Re set the floats to spec and now it seems to be ok . Mine was saturating the intake manifold too at one point.
-
Wait what lol ? the drums are riveted to the hub assembly on these cars? why ?
-
Doesn't he have to make sure he has the proper amount of oil in there as well? i thought when r12 leaks it takes the oil with it.
-
What exactly does that mean Riv Nut?
-
Buick Track bar bushing kit 1963 1964 1965 1966 67 68 70 Riviera & Gran Sport
-
What do you guys think of the track arm bushing kit by Centerville Auto? I just googled it and they popped up on Ebay, about 44 bucks for the track arm bushings.
-
That's her bad side. I want to fix the rear end track bar slash U joint issue and get to work on the quarter panel.
-
1
-
-
Ugh...my timing chain is slopped out
in Buick Riviera
Posted
I'm going to put a single row timing chain set on it, found a brand called Engine Pro or Engine Tech which has a Melling part number, and the gasket set from CARS.