Hearse
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Posts posted by Hearse
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1 hour ago, Hearse said:
Numbers matching 64 Riviera, drivers side quarter panel needs attention. Solid bones on her though. Getting a new timing chain now just got it in the mail from Dual Quad Dave. Car had the heavy duty AC option but was outfitted with no AC compressor, Riv Nut ran the vin tag for me. Aluminum radiator. Rebuilt carb. 70's sounding dual exhaust which I haven't heard in such a long time she really does sound mean but mellow. 96k original miles, engine appears to have never been opened up . I had a guy from Tee's auto body come by and look at it and said the quarter panel could be straightened on his rack so it is fixable. California car, and clean clear California title. Minor rust bubbles in a few spots from California, solid floors and trunk, very solid. No play in steering, brakes straight, accelerates strong, doors close like a bank vault. Windows roll up and down. Woodgrain inserts on the inside are getting loose. No smoke, no knock, no tics, she runs out well. Any questions please ask. Thank you.
$6500 o b o Located in Vegas.
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On 8/26/2019 at 11:21 PM, Hearse said:
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I really don't want to sell the Riviera I'm sold on them it's one of the finest driving cars I've had. We shall see what happens...
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I will take better pics when I get back into town tomorrow, it looks like it was repainted sometime in the 80s, its not show by any means just driver quality ☺️
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God that's a beautiful Riviera!!!!
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Well I guess our 1964 Riviera will be up for sale, currently getting the original nylon timing chain set replaced, California car, 96k original miles numbers matching. Runs very strong no knocks ticks or smoke. Non AC car, missing some rear interior seat trim, needs drivers side quarter panel repaired as it was hit and I had a body guy look at it , said he could put it on the frame rack and pull it no need to replace it. Originally white but was repainted that Wimbledon blue. It's a driver. Runs, stops, steers very well.
$6500 cash takes her home.
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Well I guess the 64 will be up for sale, needs the drivers side quarter panel repaired and minor trim on the rear seat portion, it is a driver with 96k original miles numbers matching. Runs well and will run better with the new timing chain installed which will be done in a week ish.
$7000 cash would take her home.
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No sir, we have a 64 Riviera in Vegas. 96k mile car it's a driver currently getting it's original timing chain replaced with the help of dual quad Dave.
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So long story short my dad sold his house, downsized and bought a 50 Merc. Ugh. Lol now I'm not sure what we're doing with the Riviera it may be for sale . I'm sold on the engineering of the first gen Riviera's and I plan to own one again soon if we sell the 64 we picked up.
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Well I am cleaning up the front part of the engine, I have one bolt which broke off in the head for the T stat housing, should I weld this nut to it and try to back it out? or just grind it flat and try to drill it out with an ez out? what would you all suggest?
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5 hours ago, EmTee said:
Good work getting to this point -- 2 observations: (1) Nylon-toothed cam gear, so definitely worth the effort to get rid of that! (2) I'm not a nailhead expert, but I see the "o" on the crank sprocket which is just to the right of 12 o'clock. The corresponding cam gear mark looks to be the raised 'pointer' cast into the aluminum at about 12 o'clock. If so, it looks like one more crankshaft revolution should bring them into alignment and have the distributor rotor pointing to #1 on the cap.
Ahhhhh ok, I missed that one on the crank gear altogether! thank you sir. Let me line these up and see how it looks.
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I got the holding tool from Summit and it worked great ! thank you for the heads up on that. Looks like it has the original timing chain set in there, with at least 1 inch of slop on the one side of the chain. Maybe I'm tired I just came in from the garage , but I can't see any visible timing marks on these gears. What is the best way to remove a broken bolt from the T stat water tube piece that sits on the timing cover I had one bolt that broke off on that water manifold piece. 3 am riv work gotta love it.
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Lol RivNut, maybe I'll just leave it alone until the tool gets here.
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Great lol...Odd engine these nailhead's, this is my first time opening one up. Almost time to get back out in the garage and see if I can get that bolt to break free on the balancer, I ordered that part to hold it from Summit but I'm curious if I can get it to hold some way up front with a huge pipe wrench or something .
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Thank you very much sir! ordering this up after dinner. 😃
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1 hour ago, Garysriv said:
Summit sells a $20 tool you mount the the balancer where the pulley bolts to. You basically bolt it on and turn the crank to where it hits the ground. Then tighten the crank bolt, remove the tool, attach the pulley. No friends needed.
Gary would you know what they are calling this tool at Summit ?
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Ordering it tonight thank you sir!!
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Now we are up to the balancer and removing the bolt , does anyone have any good ideas on holding that stationary to break that bolt ? I know one guy here bought a tool of sorts from summit I read somewhere.
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Well, an update of sorts lol. So far as I am removing parts from the front of the engine, one bolt has broken off in the thermostat housing on the passenger side of the block, I've soaked everything in PB blaster for a few days , applied heat, tapped with a hammer to try and shake anything loose holding them in, still have to pull the drivers side power steering bolts out of the T stat housing and then work on the timing cover bolts. Hopefully no more bolts snap off...
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13 hours ago, DualQuadDave said:
Engine Pro is China crap. It works, but get Melling parts if you can. I have a new SA Gear set I can sell if you need one. Be prepared to destroy the front cover if either of the 2 long top bolts break off when you start removing. Go slooooooowwwww when breaking the top cover bolts around the water pump loose, the operating oil will only sorta work. It's more luck, than anything else and being patient breaking everything loose. Do a new water pump, it's cheap, why not. Check your timing mark on the balancer while you have it off, also.
I sent ya a PM Mr Dave .
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This is the correct tool for removing the splined brake drum from a commercial chassis Cadillac circa 1960. An old Ken Tool .
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12 hours ago, arnulfo de l.a. said:
Along with what Tom T said about soaking and tapping bolts, I applied heat to the bolts a few times. If you do that make sure to keep some kind of fire extinguishing agent near you. Your car will run, start and idle much better once you change out the chains.
good luck
I'm guessing that would get rid of that strange idle it picked up recently and the miss like the timing is retarded. The play in the timing chain reminded me of the play in the steering wheel of this old 1969 Mack Cabover truck we had.
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Rivieras and Riviera parts for sale on local Craigslist, eBay, etc.
in Buick Riviera
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Originally white but was painted that blue sometime in the 80's it looks like.