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  1. Looking for a 1961 Buick Third Member out of a full size car. Thanks
  2. Members, looking for a 1961 third member with tall gears .. thanks Jimmi V.
  3. Members, does anyone know the stock ride height of a 1957 Buick Century? And from what measure point on the frame to the ground. Thanks I have no body on frame..that’s why I need frame height. Jimm8 V.
  4. Members, does anyone know the gears in a 1961 Buick Rearend? thanks Jimmi V.
  5. Yes, putting a 700R4 in paired with the 1966 401 nailhead.... Trying to find a 61 differential to switch out my stock one.( bolt in ) then get driveline made. my question is where exactly do I attach the trailing arms on the axle to get the most benefit for securing the rearend...from what I understand I do not want them straight...I am not drag racing,want them at an angle for cornering support, and front to back support, the panhard bar is for side to side. if I go wide..need to remove lower shock mounts...where would be the best place to put them...just pivot bottom of shock inward and remount bracket? Remove entire shock and remount someplace else? Remove coil and shock and replace with coil overs?... also, very confused on ride height...if the body is on and the car is on the ground...how do I work and line up the rear end or do anything when it’s 4 inches off the ground? if the frame is straight and level....on jacks, why can’t I adjust everything? no challenging you...I really don’t know.... thanks Jim
  6. Bloo, thanks for all the info....a lot to chew on I am going to put the torque tube back on for angle alignment....believe it should be 3* negative...and motor will be 3* positive (or visa versa)... can’t remember at this exact moment... Being the torque tube was an important part of the rear end ...taking it out means we need to replace it with something to take on that responsibility ..for me I chose the C10 trailing arms...from my understanding they need to creat an angle to offset the forces...like a 4 link would do... I have my frame on stands and it is level forward and back,right and left.....how do I get it to ride height to make the panhard bar straight...as it sits now..it is no way near level...and when attaching the front part..again..how do I attain ride height when it’s on a jack stand? also, want to keep axle if all possible...I can’t be the first person to do this.... here is a pick of my rearend..and a picture that was sent to me... thanks for all the help...learning as I go.... Jimmi V.
  7. I am going to change the pumpkin with a 61 Buick....
  8. John, sorry I wasn’t clear,....not keeping torque tube..going with open drive..bought car with no drivetrain... motor is going to be a 1966 401 paired with a 700R4... Thanks Jim
  9. John, yes exactly....just concerned about the placement of the trailing arms...do they need to be as close to the brake hubs as possible to get a decent angle for rigidity for the rear...or can I mount then on the open spot inward of the spring cups. thanks Jim
  10. Have a 1957 Buick Century... Have a question, picked up C10 trailing arms.....brought them home and put them under the frame to look . Now my understand is that these arms replace the torque tube and need to be at the steepest angle possible..from the furthest outside part of the axle to the closest point at the intersection of the X without impending the channel for the driveshaft. That being said.....my axle has the shock mounts on the front of them...and are located near the brake hub, next to them going towards the pumpkin is the spring cup. So the closest place I could mount the trailing arms is after the spring cups..which is about half way to the pumpkin. That would not be a good angle...almost straight. Question, 1. Could I remove lower-shock mount and reposition inward and keep upper mount where it is...changes shock compression angle. 2. Remove shock and coil all together and get coil-overs .............. other issue...attachment up front, from what I can tell ...do not think the frame as it sits will work for mounting... using the picture as a guide I think that might be the best way to go....cutting the X frame, putting a brace all the way across to each outside channel, rewelding the X onto the brace and affix the arm brackets to the brace... A little bit of work but I think it would work.any other ideas...except go 4 link, go bags,etc..need help with this set up...not go with another one. Thanks Have a Merry Christmas Jimmi V. Sent from my iPad
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