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alsmith787

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About alsmith787

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  1. Thanks Joe & anybody else who might know The only thing in the engine compartment that is called out in the 64 assy manual is the clip+tag (permanent type Anti-Freeze) & ironically I still have the clip in the radiator core support it's actually still there I assume it was a tag not a decal with a actual part number GM#384954 Two more questions was the original AC delco battery the one with yellow caps black lettering or black caps yellow lettering for a 64 cutlass application? The other question is the upper radiator bracket that bolts to the core support & clamps
  2. I've looked in books - all service manuals - online - OCA Oldsmobile club of America (I'm a member) - have had archives opened for me at Oldsmobile in Lansing Michigan via the Heritage Dept - also have rarest of the rare the original 1964 Cutlass f 85 Assembly manual & even the LINE Inspectors manual (1964 Cutlass f 85) still nothing ON ENGINE COMPARTMENT DECAL PLACEMENT? or which specific decals were used in that year. I know U guys understand 64 was a kind of mystery 1 year + 1st year A-body Conversion etc a one of a kind. I need Ur help anybody know specific locations in engin
  3. TY for clarifying that but there is something bugging me Y did Oldsmobile catalog the simulated wire wheels for 64 - 65 - 66 as option N95 in all
  4. Are the N95 option Simulated Wire Wheels for the 64 cutlass the same as the 65???
  5. Thanks Tex_Riv 63 but he doesn't know what happened to the original engine where it is or Y it was taken out I don't think the heads are rt either he says they are CA head not D also says CA is for A/C cars the Ds aren't that is just flat out wrong the heads were marked D no matter what options the car had & the reason I asked the question which I wouldn't have done is that the engine was changed nobody knows 2 what I would tracked down every owner until I found the one that removed the engine. By the way the D heads were D because of George using the engineers at Demmer this was part of t
  6. I'm not committed yet & will Try 2B Disattached as possible; U guys R rt won't know anything until I get there & C also crawl over the car I hope I can be objective Oh! I'm a member OCA so I'm well looked after lol! I do wish I wasn't out of country during recent Mecum this might've been a no brained if I could've attended Do things this way I agree w/U guys is hard making a offer 2 some1 who thinks he struck Gold - oh well - the proof is when I can touch it 4real I guess thanks guys 4 the info & guidence
  7. So is the only answer to wire wheel the top cross member in place and then prime & paint? I hate to ask this, but here goes, so if I mask & seal off everything throw blankets over the engine compartment can I scrape + wire wheel then prime & paint the front steel inner fender Wells? Help!! Anyone,,,Thanks
  8. I'm not committed yet & will Try 2B Disattached as possible; U guys R rt won't know anything until I get there & C also crawl over the car I hope I can be objective Oh! I'm a member OCA so I'm well looked after lol! I do wish I wasn't out of country during recent Mecum this might've been a no brained if I could've attended Do things this way I agree w/U guys is hard making a offer 2 some1 who thinks he struck Gold - oh well - the proof is when I can touch it 4real I guess thanks guys 4 the info & guidence
  9. Not to get in2 this 2 deep the 1st year Hurst Olds 1968 is rarer less production units compared 2 1969 & more valuable visa vie more expense However my wife & I have to admit just plain loved the 1969 more it distinct in its own right & they improved it that year solved the turbulent air flow problem to the car with the hood scoop on the hood also there were sutile refinements & Demmer handled things better the second year of production
  10. Good Morning Guys Got a question for everyone that's restored their 60s A-body GM car I'm restoring my Mom's original 1964 Olds Cutlass been in the family since bought new. I want to paint the front end frame work that the radiator & fender support bar & all related attached hardware + latch + front rad frame going to remove grill & lights to sand prime &paint The reason 4me asking this is Do I need to brace the fenders from moving once the top cross brace is removed the fenders R bolts to the splash pans & they R attached to the frame am I wrong that the fenders
  11. Thanks to all (Matt - 1950Panhead) Good advise from all my but without making this trip to actually take a real HARD look at this I guess I don't want 2 turn my back on this car Yet! The vin number is verified along with the original dealer in New York (1969) it is a Hurst Olds - paperwork confirms he messaged me a pic of original order invoice & the Demmer build/sheet/invoice so I know it's real visa vie after numbers are confirmed physically (any numbers not! I'm walking away back looking again maybe even a auction this year, wasnt in country during Mecum-traveling) whole thing depends
  12. TY Trimacar much appreciated But what I was trying 2do is give a realistic condition & value of the car taking a average of recent Mecum Kissimmee last week they average 52k he was asking 67k visa vie Negotiable my thoughts were given the admitted condition without C-ing yet my thoughts if it is as slight as indicated would be 40 to 45k I don't want 2 insult or offend him like everybody else on the planet the person thinks he has Gold (only natural) just wanted the forums input & any advise I also assume that the numbers matching is correct which I will physically confirm -
  13. Going to look at a matching #'s 1969 Hurst Oldsmobile; numbers authentication isn't a problem that I have covered. Haven't been there yet but now that it's real & I'm showing up 2 C the car, owner sent me all pics of documentation everything indicates it's a REAL 69 Hurst. Owner say. Has some rust in lower quarter ft fenders (typical) & there is some rust forming trunk lid area (typical) these pose no problem for me; rest of the car is solid undercarriage also via pics paint is original never touch petina is gone from it He says but color is still strong; need some suggestions on the f
  14. All my adult life I wanted a 1968 Mercury Cougar GTE 427 " NO EXCEPTIONS" unfortunately the Military came along & so did Vietnam by the time I was medi-vaced out it was too late won't go in2 details let's say I missed my window. Now there is one for sale on eBay supposed numbers matching with 106,000 miles (means nothing really as long as it's a original) has a Marti report & a window sticker vin# matches everything; because of the mileage reasonable I assume but my radar is up & back of hair is raised Any advise much appreciated & ur thoughts welcomed
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