alsmith787

Thanks Joe & anybody else who might know The only thing in the engine compartment that is called out in the 64 assy manual is the clip+tag (permanent type Anti-Freeze) & ironically I still have the clip in the radiator core support it's actually still there I assume it was a tag not a decal with a actual part number GM#384954 Two more questions was the original AC delco battery the one with yellow caps black lettering or black caps yellow lettering for a 64 cutlass application? The other question is the upper radiator bracket that bolts to the core support & clamps the radiator in place also know as the top plate had a black tape patch going across the slots in that plate actually mine still has remnants of it. Does anybody know what was used or where I can get it (it feels like old brittle mylar on black) Thanks for any help

I've looked in books - all service manuals - online - OCA Oldsmobile club of America (I'm a member) - have had archives opened for me at Oldsmobile in Lansing Michigan via the Heritage Dept - also have rarest of the rare the original 1964 Cutlass f 85 Assembly manual & even the LINE Inspectors manual (1964 Cutlass f 85) still nothing ON ENGINE COMPARTMENT DECAL PLACEMENT? or which specific decals were used in that year. I know U guys understand 64 was a kind of mystery 1 year + 1st year A-body Conversion etc a one of a kind. I need Ur help anybody know specific locations in engine compartment decals & which decals Example ---> battery decal (positive to positive // negative to negative DECAL does it go on radiator top frame just above battery or does it go on the face of the frame as Ur standing in front of the car with good up looking at engine? Please help if U definitively know Thanks Muchly

TY for clarifying that but there is something bugging me Y did Oldsmobile catalog the simulated wire wheels for 64 - 65 - 66 as option N95 in all

Are the N95 option Simulated Wire Wheels for the 64 cutlass the same as the 65???

Thanks Tex_Riv 63 but he doesn't know what happened to the original engine where it is or Y it was taken out I don't think the heads are rt either he says they are CA head not D also says CA is for A/C cars the Ds aren't that is just flat out wrong the heads were marked D no matter what options the car had & the reason I asked the question which I wouldn't have done is that the engine was changed nobody knows 2 what I would tracked down every owner until I found the one that removed the engine. By the way the D heads were D because of George using the engineers at Demmer this was part of their finger print.

I'm not committed yet & will Try 2B Disattached as possible; U guys R rt won't know anything until I get there & C also crawl over the car I hope I can be objective Oh! I'm a member OCA so I'm well looked after lol! I do wish I wasn't out of country during recent Mecum this might've been a no brained if I could've attended Do things this way I agree w/U guys is hard making a offer 2 some1 who thinks he struck Gold - oh well - the proof is when I can touch it 4real I guess thanks guys 4 the info & guidence

So is the only answer to wire wheel the top cross member in place and then prime & paint? I hate to ask this, but here goes, so if I mask & seal off everything throw blankets over the engine compartment can I scrape + wire wheel then prime & paint the front steel inner fender Wells? Help!! Anyone,,,Thanks

I'm not committed yet & will Try 2B Disattached as possible; U guys R rt won't know anything until I get there & C also crawl over the car I hope I can be objective Oh! I'm a member OCA so I'm well looked after lol! I do wish I wasn't out of country during recent Mecum this might've been a no brained if I could've attended Do things this way I agree w/U guys is hard making a offer 2 some1 who thinks he struck Gold - oh well - the proof is when I can touch it 4real I guess thanks guys 4 the info & guidence

Not to get in2 this 2 deep the 1st year Hurst Olds 1968 is rarer less production units compared 2 1969 & more valuable visa vie more expense However my wife & I have to admit just plain loved the 1969 more it distinct in its own right & they improved it that year solved the turbulent air flow problem to the car with the hood scoop on the hood also there were sutile refinements & Demmer handled things better the second year of production

Good Morning Guys Got a question for everyone that's restored their 60s A-body GM car I'm restoring my Mom's original 1964 Olds Cutlass been in the family since bought new. I want to paint the front end frame work that the radiator & fender support bar & all related attached hardware + latch + front rad frame going to remove grill & lights to sand prime &paint The reason 4me asking this is Do I need to brace the fenders from moving once the top cross brace is removed the fenders R bolts to the splash pans & they R attached to the frame am I wrong that the fenders will move when I take that top brace (that hood adjusting bumpers R bolted 2 & the top rad tank brace is bolted 2 ?) Would like 2 remove sandblast & repaint One last thing the small plastic loop plastic holders that hold wire loom for lights & horn to this top brace does anybody sell the EXACT repos of these? Thanks All

Thanks to all (Matt - 1950Panhead) Good advise from all my but without making this trip to actually take a real HARD look at this I guess I don't want 2 turn my back on this car Yet! The vin number is verified along with the original dealer in New York (1969) it is a Hurst Olds - paperwork confirms he messaged me a pic of original order invoice & the Demmer build/sheet/invoice so I know it's real visa vie after numbers are confirmed physically (any numbers not! I'm walking away back looking again maybe even a auction this year, wasnt in country during Mecum-traveling) whole thing depends on condition Vs cost & I consider U guys the experts that's Y I'm asking advise & input Oh! & Unlike most I WILL TAKE UR ADVISE Thanks

TY Trimacar much appreciated But what I was trying 2do is give a realistic condition & value of the car taking a average of recent Mecum Kissimmee last week they average 52k he was asking 67k visa vie Negotiable my thoughts were given the admitted condition without C-ing yet my thoughts if it is as slight as indicated would be 40 to 45k I don't want 2 insult or offend him like everybody else on the planet the person thinks he has Gold (only natural) just wanted the forums input & any advise I also assume that the numbers matching is correct which I will physically confirm - aka. intake + heads + block + trans + wheels; I may be off base here but the more minor things the better pricing 4me, I know convoluted logic but price better main thing is undercarriage + frame I respect the advise & intelligence of this forum so what do U guys think?

Going to look at a matching #'s 1969 Hurst Oldsmobile; numbers authentication isn't a problem that I have covered. Haven't been there yet but now that it's real & I'm showing up 2 C the car, owner sent me all pics of documentation everything indicates it's a REAL 69 Hurst. Owner say. Has some rust in lower quarter ft fenders (typical) & there is some rust forming trunk lid area (typical) these pose no problem for me; rest of the car is solid undercarriage also via pics paint is original never touch petina is gone from it He says but color is still strong; need some suggestions on the following: He's asking (negotiable) $67,500 - given body & figuring whole car will need 2B painted oh by the way Oldsmobile never decaled the stripes on the car they painted them do this will add more 2 expense of painting & resto - Anyway thought I'd offer him $40,000 & go up to 45 C what happens don't want 2 insult him but given the work I will have 2do & given that at Mecum this car in total frame off resto goes for 50-75,000 though that was fair - ALL OF U - UR THOUHTS? Also any tips or info I'd appreciate. Thanks AL

All my adult life I wanted a 1968 Mercury Cougar GTE 427 " NO EXCEPTIONS" unfortunately the Military came along & so did Vietnam by the time I was medi-vaced out it was too late won't go in2 details let's say I missed my window. Now there is one for sale on eBay supposed numbers matching with 106,000 miles (means nothing really as long as it's a original) has a Marti report & a window sticker vin# matches everything; because of the mileage reasonable I assume but my radar is up & back of hair is raised Any advise much appreciated & ur thoughts welcomed