Tph479
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Posts posted by Tph479
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I enjoy reading old manuals. I have one from a REO that talks about how you should drain your fuel and heat it on your stove on a cold winter day. I have to go back and read it, but it probably is under one of those sections of “having your man do”. Such a manly thing to be heating gasoline on a open flame stove-
My modern transportation pod manual has like 30 pages on how to program the clock, and says stuff like do not drink the battery acid.
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Seeing a Tucker from the front with the three headlights reminds me of the chick from the movie Total Recall.
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21 hours ago, edinmass said:
A 120 will never be a CCCA Classic. It’s too small, too cheap(when new), and a mass production car with nothing special about it. It does offer cheap, easy to find parts, and it’s very simple to work on compared to the big cars. Basically “easy to own”………gives it much appeal for part time car enthusiasts. Certainly easier to drive and park. Perfect for ladies to drive without the “battleship syndrome “ of the senior series cars. Will I ever own one? Probably not, but then again, the 34 Buick is basically the same category car…….except fifty times more rare. With a fair amount of upgrades, the junior series car becomes very drivable……….high speed rear, radial tires, ect. Personally I. A purist, but the little 120 is hard to beat for a first time pre war car.I’m not advocating that the 120 is CCCA material, but it seems that it comes up to the committee every few years. Could the reason be that people are looking for an easier to drive mid thirties Packard for touring? Or do you think that the belief is that the cars would rise in price if accepted?
What did you think of the quality of the transmission during the rebuild? Overall was it an easy job?
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12 hours ago, Roscoe said:
Love the 120. I know that if I am to have the chance to be "the man that owns one" it will likely be a junior series. If I could afford the price of admission to the senior series, I'd struggle with any major repairs. And I like to drive them alot so there would be repairs. I admire the big full classics. They are works of art. But I think the smaller Packard would suit me better anyway. In rural Arkansas, it would probably have been more likely to see a 120 Packard that a Senior when they were new cars, anyway.
And that Buick is beautiful even if it is an open car. Strangely, I prefer closed cars to convertibles/roadsters though. I'm weird, I guess.
120’s are excellent cars, well designed and engineered especially for the price point that they were targeting when new. Also don’t feel weird for liking closed cars. They are much more practical for the weather conditions we have where I live.
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On 4/20/2024 at 4:44 PM, alsancle said:
This is very very cool. Steve Snyder has it for sale.
https://www.vaultcars.com/1927-lincoln-dietrich-convertible-coupe/
This is an authentic Dietrich custom body Lincoln, one of only a handful in existence. It shows the Dietrich brilliance in styling, with a low accent line and rakish windshield and convertible top. The visual effect continues with a rearmounted spare, which accents the fender line and makes the car look lower still. Extensive use of aluminum for the body was very advanced for the time, and the design stands the test of time. The Dietrich seat tag and cowl tags are present, and overall it’s an authentic, real example of this rare body style.
1927 was a year of technical improvement for the Lincoln “L” – most importantly the addition of front brakes, which this car has! The wheels are 21” demountable rims on wood “artillery” wheels.
It has the L-head Lincoln V-8, which has had some recent repair and service by a Lincoln expert. The original updraft carburetor and accessories are included, but the car runs on a downdraft Holley 2 barrel now. The top mechanism is complete and works, the doors open and close nicely, and the windows operate properly.
Overall this is a good, mostly complete and solid car. It could be improved and enjoyed, or given a more thorough restoration. It has the look of a car that had some restoration done in the early days of the hobby, and would be a worthy candidate for further restoration and re-commissioning, which would be necessary to bring it to full operability. I note the rear spare demountable rim is absent, the car will need to be re-wired – it starts & runs, but lights, charging, etc are not functional. The rumble seat lid was done in fiberglass, and the rumble seat cushions are missing. The tires are very old and should be replaced.
The California title is Clean, and the ’27 Lincoln Dietrich is ready for it’s new owner!
I like the look of the blackwall tire on the rear of the car. I think if the brake drums were painted black, the wheel hubs painted black, the belt lines on the body painted black with a thin pin stripe that matched the body of the car and the car sporting blackwalls would do wonders for the appearance of this Lincoln. My opinion is adding those touches would both lengthen and lower the look of the car.
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21 hours ago, ramair said:
Recent experience has taught me that even when you buy a prewar classic that has no fatal flaws you can spend a lot of time and money not only on all the deferred maintenance but trying to find unobtainable steering, brake, suspension and tuneup parts. As some of you have heard me talk about my latest buy, a 1939 Packard twelve, a low mile original rust free car with a older paint job that has held up nice, near perfect chrome, a engine that started instantly, did not leak (by prewar standards), did not overheat, great brakes and a velvet smooth
clutch. I am now approaching 500 hours along with $7,500 in parts and this is without finding any ugly surprises. Could I have spent less time and money, probably, but do I want to take the grandkids out in a 6,000 pound car at 60 mph with brakes that probably have not been apart since the Kennedy administration. The good news is that I still love the car, probably because when it came apart all major systems were not screwed up with a sabotage hack job. Knock on wood the classic car gods have been kind to me, this time!
most of us followed Matt’s Lincoln twelve story which is a reminder that the “Improved Murphys Law” works like this, if there is a 50/50 chance of something going wrong, nine times out ten it will!
Having the brake pedal go to the floor on a car similar to yours early on a Sunday morning is not the greatest feeling in the world….
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5 hours ago, edinmass said:
Interestingly the trans was rebuilt 8 years ago. I'm assuming metal fatigue.....I wonder if the high speed rear end is putting more stress on the gear? Anyway, they obvisously had issues, as the new part is certainly an upgrade. It's a pleasure working on stuff that has part availability........it's a new experience for me. Last week it was V-16 transmissions and every part is make it from scratch as you go along. Just add time and money. I'm starting to be a fan of the 120 Series Packard. It's built similar to the Buick, and is a perfect size for surface roads down here year round. The big boy toys don't fit into most parking spaces anymore. More tomorrow......Ed
Curious question, what is making you become a fan of the 120? I think they are pretty sporty drivers and attractive looking especially for the price point they sold at when new. Do you think that the continued push to get them CCCA status is because they are easier to drive and handle for the older collectors? Are there any noticeable similarities between the Buick and 120 considering the 120 had some ex GM, I believe Pontiac, guys help out in the development of it?
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3 hours ago, Brass is Best said:
If you feel that way, send yours over. I will give it a good home and get it working.
Car is mostly sorted now. Just a lot of hours. Comes down to good vacuum and voltage.
Back when the 810/812 was introduced, technology wise it must have been like a space shuttle compared to other cars.
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6 hours ago, John Bloom said:
She looks great just as she is.....change nothing. Someday, your kids may have the Stearns Knight, and at that time white walls on Classics may be all the rage......you want them to leave the blackwalls on and say "dad had it with blackwalls, its staying that way".
The look in the yard, spring and summer headed your way after winter, same look and vibe we've had here. it puts a charge back into me. Love those warm days after winter telling us that Summer is coming. Great for taking these cars out.
I don't care how "bipolar, or confounding those Cords are, I'd like to have one. Update us how that longer trip goes if you can.
I didn't try to talk you out of the Cord that you were looking at. They are cool cars.
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3 hours ago, 8E45E said:
Great..... another awkward item popping up in my Amazon search history. They are going to think I more or a weirdo now!!!
Would one get docked for points is they don't use the correct Mutton on their restoration project????
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I’m looking at a Loco manual that my friend gave me, and I have to laugh when I see the section about the Water Pump. “The cups should be filled with mutton tallow, beef tallow or a pure heavy mineral grease. Turn down these cups everyday.
The question I have is , where are you guys buying your mutton and beef tallow from???
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14 hours ago, alsancle said:
It definitely has its idiosyncrasies. It’s one of those cars that you really have to learn and sorting is a long tedious process. But our car for about 50 years with tremendously reliable. My dad drove from Boston to Auburn Indiana twice in the late 60s. No problems ever. Of course, that came to an end a few years ago as soon as I was in charge of keeping it running.
You have never lived unless you had the light fuse blow out on a Cord on interstate 80 driving home from Auburn in the dark. Nothing like having to hold a flashlight on the white line until we could make it to the rest stop.
I heard that golf is supposed to be a relaxing hobby….
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11 hours ago, Brass is Best said:
You need a better mechanic.
Car needs an exorcism.
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2 hours ago, alsancle said:
25 more miles today. Cooler day than yesterday with partial sun. Tomorrow I’m gonna try for the big trip. Three minor issues. I didn’t catch first gear correctly once. Which was my fault, and then I brought the clutch back out before fully gone into fourth gear and ended up in neutral. Which was also my fault. When I stopped and let it sit for about 30 minutes, it hot soaked, but I didn’t hold the pedal all the way to the floor initially and it wouldn’t start. So I let it sit another 15 minutes, then held my foot all the way down and it started right up.
For the first time in decades it starts on a few spins cold. Starts on one spin hot, but you need to be aware of the hot soak if you let it sit for more than 10 or 15 minutes.
Coupe of things….
1) I am standing by my most bipolar car ever comment.
2) You have the hat trick of white walls, amber road lights and acd badge rocking.
Its nice to see that’s it’s getting driven.
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52 minutes ago, edinmass said:
Interesting subject. In my home up north, I run "old green" and down here in Florida I run cutting oil. That said, I replaced an Auburn head with a new one in 2015, in 2017 the new head rotted out and needed to be replaced.........since there were multiple people making them, I went to a different supplier, and the head has ben fine since with old green. I put a spare head on the shelf. As far as the Packard 12 covers.....if you have a car, buy one for the shelf. Don't assume it will always be available. I have two in stock for our cars. Parts that were easily available are now running out and not being made again.........smart move is to inventory what you need for the next 30 years.
Whatever composition the original aluminum is made out of is not the same as the modern stuff. With the Packard 12 timing chain covers, numerous local guys who claim that they can weld and fix anything had no luck welding ones up. Kept on burning through and looking like popcorn. One theory was that the original aluminum had a lot of sand in it, another was that the old coolant contaminated the aluminum.
The new covers can be welded up so hopefully in another 80 years they can be repaired if needed. There are still a few of the new ones on the shelf. Cheap insurance to have a spare one since it seems to be the weak link on a twelve.
I am still stumped on why I had to flush green gel/ clumpy coolant out of a system. I didn't find much info on the ole googler.
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44 minutes ago, motoringicons said:
If you can afford it, then buy it now. After all, how long will you be dead?
You live everyday, you die only once…
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9 hours ago, alsancle said:
Today is probably about as nice day as you will ever see in New England. 67°, sunny skies, light breeze. We are still trying to sort our cord, so I headed out for about 20 minutes. Now runs and shifts perfectly, we’re just trying to get the brakes dialed in.
I drove a 37 Custom Beverly on my drivers permit to the DMV on my 16th bday. It was a Saturday and we got there too late. I had to wait 2 days to obtain my freedom. A cord is a never ending sorting process. Most bipolar car ever. Runs perfect, depending on the day.
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2 hours ago, ramair said:
Hi all, I read the thread on adding cutting oil with great interest and I did not want to hijack it as my question is not about the merits between cutting oil and antifreeze, my question is between the different modern antifreeze that is available has anyone seen a difference in certain properties like foaming our suppression of corrosion with dissimilar metals? I am putting the finishing touches on a 1939 Packard twelve that I bought last year. The car came to me with “green” coolant, the car did not overheat on several mountain climb test drives, however the vehicle had a lot of deferred maintenance that needed attention, one of which was the coolant overflow tank was missing. Amazing to realize that the Packard twelves were early adopters of what many of us would consider a modern accessory. In order for it to work it requires a pressure cap which Packard modestly kept at 4 pounds, the cooling system holds 10 gallons and the water pump runs at 40 gallons per minute ( yes Ed I know the Pierce runs at near 50 GPM). I put a reproduction tank back on and started thinking about what was the greatest contribution to the cooling system . The 4# cap didn’t raise the boiling point much, but maybe keeping the top of the radiator full of coolant does not allow air in the cooling system, which must help preserve the either expensive or unobtainium
timing cover and aluminum heads ( mine have been replaced in the past with cast iron).
So here is what has happened to me at my day job, I have a lot of farm and construction equipment and recently I have had 2 diesel engines go down needing major overhauls due to internal corrosion. All my rigs get coolant changed out every three years and I have always used the “green” stuff. Our water that I blend with is neutral PH and is fairly soft. One engine was a Cummins and the other was a John Deere, both dealerships told me to use their proprietary pre mixed coolant which ironically is the same color of yellow. The John Deere dealer told me that every time one of their tractors come in with all of its coolant in the oil pan, the remaining coolant is the old standard “green”. He also added that there are all kinds of dissimilar metals in these engines that just want to corrode.I just wanted to know if others have tried anything else and if there is any positives or negativesMy friend makes the timing cover for the Packard twelves, he has both the 1932-1934 and 1935-1939 styles in stock. If you have an original cover, it’s not a case of if you need one, but when you need one. The aluminum corrodes behind the water pump and won’t take a weld repair.
This past weekend I had to flush a mg td cooling system of what looked like green clumpy gel. It’s like the jolly green giant went to town on the radiator. 4 years ago when I got the car and resurrected it from a 35 year slumber I both evaporusted and ran vinegar through the system and flushed it out repeatedly, so I know the system was clean before I put in a 50/50 mix of new coolant. l I don’t know if I got a bad batch of green antifreeze but I was scratching my head on what I had to flush out. Thoughts?
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Try SEM Vinyl coat or any other sprayable dye, flexible coating.
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10 hours ago, BobinVirginia said:
I recently came across a car of interest. 1911 Model 65 Rambler. From what I researched there only one left? Can anyone elaborate on these cars? Seems in league with the Olds Limited. I’ve seen videos of one green example that is supposed to be the only car left.
The Rambler was a big car, but the Olds limited would cast a large shadow over it. I’ve seen both in person and it’s hard to explain. Both are fantastic cars and for you car enthusiasts out there, if you ever have the opportunity to attend a local show with large brass cars I would recommend it. They really are eye openers.
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23 hours ago, Steve Moskowitz said:
Probably should mention that the body style (Tourabout) seen in Charlotte is not the norm for most surviving Limiteds. There is the Limousine but most are 7-passenger tourings. There was one race car but it has since been converted to a standard body.
About 18 months ago I seen a blue limited race car that I believe was factory modified and tourabout with a black top and interior that was being restored. The owner told me that the blue race car was wicked fast and that he had it over 100mph.
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10 hours ago, edinmass said:
The real issue today is to start or run a show someone ends up being on the hook for 200-500k. It's insanely expensive to run a show today. And try and get volunteer help. The numbers don't work anymore for the insane over the top venues. I think the smaller shows that cost a fraction to put on are the future. Other problems also pop up with the smaller venues like judging,ect.
Your smaller show comment made me think of a story my late friend told me. In the early 1950’s he hosted the first ACD club meet on Chicago’s Southside in the school parking lot across the street from his parent’s house, which he was still living in. He said his mom walked over with homemade sandwiches for everyone as well as lemonade and ice tea. In the pictures I seen most of the ACD cars were tired looking, but then again they were 20-25 year used up cars mostly owned by young guys. I might have some pictures lying around.
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You really have to see one of the Oldsmobile Limited’s in person to fully comprehend how large and over the top they are in size. I think I have seen 8 of these in person over the years and I am still amazed at how big they are.
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19 hours ago, alsancle said:
You can make them reliable. The problem is people not completely understanding and rebuilding the system correctly. My dad’s car operated perfectly for 50 years. But once the original harness deteriorated, things went to crap.
Once one comes to the realization that Cords are probably the most bipolar car ever invented, they are not that bad. You just need a good electrical system, a lot of grounds, a strong battery and good vacuum. When everything is functioning properly they are fantastic performers for the day.
An often overlooked area is the vacuum canister where the leather seal dries out and needs to be oiled, or a vacuum leak somewhere on the car.
Then again being an expert in Voodoo magic also helps in keeping the evil spirits away.
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AUCTION: 3 Hours Left - Tucker Convertible - $2,375,000.00 (Rowlett, Texas)
in "Not Mine" Automobiles For Sale
Posted
The land behind these homes is where they built the engines for the B29 Superfortress , and after the war Tucker used the factory to build his cars. This is on the southwest side of Chicago. Some of the buildings still exist and a portion of the property is currently a shopping mall.