-
Posts
309 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by stvaughn
-
-
-
Check Model A parts suppliers. They have various sizes. I used some on my REO’s. Modified slightly and work just fine.
-
-
On 1/8/2020 at 6:52 PM, edinmass said:
Frank Casey 1-508-865-6613
Centeral Massachusetts
Thanks Ed. I will contact him.
-
6 minutes ago, edinmass said:
He’s the best in the world.
Contact information please.
-
46 minutes ago, John_Mereness said:
My radiator guy swears by this product http://damonq.com/TechSheets/CoreSure.pdf (and has used it for 30 plus years that I know of and in every single radiator he does)
Thanks John. I’ll check that product out.
-
3 hours ago, edinmass said:
I have a guy who can fix the head......even though someone welded on it. That’s a very bad idea. Head should be cut and stitched, then surfaced and painted. Install a new core. Flush and clean the block. Rebuild the water pump while your there. Start ASAP, as spring is almost here and every one is busy.
Ed, please give me the name/number of someone to fix the head.
Thanks, Steve
-
Thanks trini, but I’ll use my local shop that has already re-cored it once.
-
I appreciate all the comments and suggestions. I have been trying to locate a replacement head for two years with no luck. This head had been stick welded in the past which makes proper repair more difficult which is why I tried the Fiberlock product.
Anyway, I called CRC tech support to see if they had any suggestions.
Ok, bad news, good news. When I told him my situation and stated that I believe his product stopped up the radiator he said “ Yes, it does that sometimes.” He then explained that the radiator would have to be replaced because his product had “set up” in the core. He also explained that the product was not suitable for zero pressure cooling systems which is not noted on the container.
He then sent me a claim form to fill out for reimbursement of the cost of a replacement radiator which was a total surprise to me. Apparently it’s a known issue with this product. Since this is a new core in the radiator I know what the cost will be.
Hopefully all I’ll be out is my time. We’ll see if they reimburse me for the full cost of getting a replacement core.
- 1
-
1932 REO. I’ve been driving this car in hot weather (90 +) for two years with no problems. However I had a some water seepage in a crack in the head and a head gasket leak so I decided to “fix” it with some super duper stop leak. K&W Fiberlock.
Well, it sealed the leaks just fine but now I’m overheating. In the process of trying to find out what went wrong I noticed the lower radiator hose would collapse when I reved up the engine. I’ve never had that problem before so I’m guessing this stuff has clogged up the radiator. I’ve tried back flushing, filling and driving and draining and repeating several times. I put a stiff coil of wire in the lower hose and when I rev up the engine I can see the hose trying to pull in. I’ve thought about trying a mixture of water and alcohol to see if that might dissolve the stoppage. Any suggestions before I bite the bullet and pull the radiator?
Steve
-
51 minutes ago, John_Mereness said:
That is technically not the cost of the spring - that is the cost of fabricating the "first" spring - the price would go down substantially if you ordered 100 or even 1000 (you just stumbled into the problem with fabricating the parts - the first one comes at a premium).
Yes, I agree. Now if I could just find 25 other people that needed four springs. 😃
- 1
-
54 minutes ago, mike brady said:
Early 810 Cord's used Lockheed brakes. Try calling Auburn Cord Parts in Kansas to see if they have any.
Mike
Thanks Mike, I’ll give them a call.
Steve
-
Mark, the spring you referenced is 0.069 wire diameter with a 3 lb. rate. The spring I have has a wire diameter of 0.10 and is rated at 25 lbs according the Lee Spring. Both Lee and The Spring Store have a 25 lb/5 inch spring but it is 0.750 whereas mine are 0.625. The Spring Store’s are stainless steel and cost $42.98 so that’s a no-go. Lee’s are $11.90 so I may try them if I determine that they will fit. Nothing in McMaster Carr is strong enough. I appreciate everyone’s help
Steve
-
Well, they are brake shoe return springs so that makes them important but there’s nothing special about them. They do need to be the right length and tension and be durable. I’d be real leery of a Chinese hardware store spring in my brakes. I’ve got a NAPA brake parts catalog and they don’t show them.
Model A springs are completely different but you can buy a set for all 4 wheels for $13.00 so I have no idea why these should cost so much.
I’m surprised that someone doesn’t make them. I don’t think Lockheed brakes are that uncommon. Hopefully someone will see this thread and point me to a source.
-
I used Apple to rebuild the shocks on my 33 REO And they did an excellent job.
-
-
Tried Lee Spring.
$1,049 for 4, $1,054 for 8.
I’ll just have to use mine.
-
On 5/16/2014 at 11:38 AM, wilmacmike said:
Will have to figure out how to make them smaller.
There is a free app called Compress. Works great. It will allow you to compress up to three at a time free.
-
I have an old NAPA break parts catalog and they are not in it. I’ll try Lee Spring.
-
-
On my 32 REO the covers were in pretty good condition so I used 0.050 stainless steel as a liner. On m 33 they were useless so I had a local machinest/car guy fab me up a pair from 3/8” stainless steel. They are a little heavy but they’ll last long after I’m gone. I still have to clean up the engine and polish them and even thought about possibly engraving the REO logo on them since this is going to be a driver.
-
You got my vote.
-
3 minutes ago, deaddds said:
So as a knucklehead novice with the late teen- twenties stuff, what does it take to pull leaf springs out, apart, lube with, reassemble? Dangerous process or fairly easy?
Clamp spring tightly with vise grips, c clamp, whatever. Remove center bolt and replace with a long threaded rod. Tighten up threaded rod, remove clamps and loosen nuts.
-
https://www.gener-nator.com/default.htm
6 volt 50 amp. Alternator insider your generator housing. I’d love to have one but I have no accessories and therefore no need for that much current. Sounds like you could benefit from it if you’re willing to part with $1,000.
Need 1933 S2 seat adjusting rod.
in REO
Posted
The seat adjustment mechanism in my 33 coupe is missing. I could modify a 1932 S1 or possibly other models to work.
Any help locating one would be appreciated.
Steve