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Everything posted by MattMudBall

  1. I used this exact sink drain strainer. I can't remember where I found it. It may have been Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Multiple places sell the same one. I of course sealed the bottom.
  2. I followed your instructions putting a cut off switch into my 29 Tudor. A couple of times my starter switch has gotten stuck down and having this switch I was able kill the power immediately rather than running to grab a wrench to disconnect the battery. I really like being able to reach the switch from the driver seat. Thanks for the best possible method of installing a cut-off switch. I also feel better sleeping at night knowing the power is off.
  3. Voltage to the coils is 2.2 volts. The resistors on the firewall inside are new and checked. Battery connections and ground wires were cleaned. Having a set of coils rebuilt was one of the first things done to fix this problem months ago. I really think a new wiring harness is the answer.
  4. While using my coil adapter plate, I put 12v coils on the car and a 12v battery, start it up and it runs perfectly! This tells me there is a current draw or a voltage drop somewhere in the system. I believe the reason for this is because 12 volts require less current. With a 6 volt system, having thick healthy wires are critical because lower voltage requires higher current. In my case, as the wires warm up it is creating even more resistance. There is no need to convert everything to 12 volts. A new wiring harness should fix my problem. P.S. Most aircraft operate on 28 volts
  5. As off right now the stock coils are on. Yes, same problem with old and new distributor. I know its running on all 12 cyl, I will double check. I have 3 sets of good condensers and have tried them all.
  6. The original jets are #57. I have tried smaller and larger jets to no avail. No blockage in exhaust manifolds and I put a drain snake through the pipes. I've been testing with and without a muffler.
  7. Hi, I'm working on this 48 Lincoln Continental convertible V12 and she won't rev over about 2,800 rpm once warmed up. Runs great at idle, even though it's having high rpm problems. Sometimes when the engine is cold it will rev up just fine until it is warmed up or by the time i pull out of the driveway. The problem is present with or without a load. Can drive around but won't go over 40 mph once warmed up. I've rebuilt 2 different carbs, It as an electric fuel pump pushing from the tank and has 5 psi at the carb. Gasoline is fresh. New points, condensers, ballast resistors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel filter. I made my own coil plate to accept 2 universal 6 volt coils. I've tried old points and old condensers before the distributor was sent out for overhaul and points setup. I've tried bypassing the ballast resistors. Spark plugs are gapped at 28 thou and are a nice tan color. Nice blue spark will jump a 1/4" gap. Vacuum advance is working according to a mark I made on the crank pulley and using a timing light while revving the motor. I've pulled the timing cover off to make sure the marks were lined up. At full throttle, vacuum gauge with exhaust disconnected shows 5" and at idle the gauge bounces slowly from 15.5"- 16.5" (this variation could be from points slightly out of sync, but problem still existed when points were in sync). Brand new optima 6v battery. Can't find a vacuum leak. No valve ticking. No smoke, no oil burning. All cylinders have 100-110 psi. Hope someone can help.
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