pmhowe
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Posts posted by pmhowe
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A collection of neat cars. Thanks for posting. I must confess I have never seen any of these models. Would you do me (and possibly others) a favor and repost the last picture, but with captions showing the year and models? I'm most familiar with the late 1920s and early 1930s cars, which were handsome and extremely well built. Also I remember the starlight coupes of the early 1950s.
Thanks,
Phil
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My first guess was some slight residual grease. However, the pattern looks more like rust scale. I'm thinking that a small mount of rust grew with time. Either way, it says to me that it is not quite clean enough for refinishing.
Phil
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Hi Dave,
Just a thought: You might want to recheck your engine mounts. A bad or a loosely mounted engine mount can exacerbate any mild vibration. I’m guessing you replaced yours, so check to make sure they are firmly secured.
Phil
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In thinking some more about this last night, I concluded that there is an inherent advantage in having the disconnect switch connected to the ground: That way, if one is removing the connection for the hot cable and your wrench makes contact between the hot post and a metal part of the car, a short circuit is avoided. So, I agree with EmTee, Matt, and others; for safety when working on a car, there is an inherent advantage in having the disconnect switch mounted on the grounding line (and close to the grounding post on the car battery). However, I still mount my disconnect switches some distance from the battery terminal, as the batteries are not easily accessible, and I want ease of access to the disconnect. So, for me, it is a tradeoff. I address the shorting issue by placing an insulating cover over the hot battery post, and have done that on any car I have owned. The covers are easily removed when it is time to do so.
Phil
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Matt,
Thank you for resurrecting this thread. (And, Alsancle, thanks to you for starting it, and to all of you who have contributed.!) I had read this thread before, but re-read it today in its entirety. Lots of good advice.
I especially liked a comment Matt made in his first post; “So I think the VERY FIRST step should be--like an alcoholic--admitting that your car has issues.” I think I’m a caraholic. My car has issues, which I share. I’m slowly sorting them out.
Matt, I’m confused on one point: Did you really mean to say that one should always insert a cutoff switch on the ground side? “It's common practice to put the cut-off switch on the ground side, which is what you should do. From the battery to the switch to the clean ground point on the frame or engine.”
If so, what is your reasoning? I always choose the hot side, figuring that it is the side easiest to isolate. Appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks,
Phil
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Gary,
Your Buick looks great. Would you share the time frame when you had it sandblasted and painted, and what the respray cost? That will help immensely.
Thanks,
Phil
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Autumn in the Mountains 2022. Saturday, Sept. 24.
This show is sponsored by the British Car Club of North Carolina. So it is those mountains - not the Rockies, not the Alps, not the Andes, but still very beautiful.
I went to this show a few years ago, and was very favorably impressed. I missed 2021, but they had over 200 British cars that year. I hope to go again this year. I hope you can, too. (Full disclosure; I am not a member of the BCCWNC.)
To be held at the Mills River Brewing Co., Mills River, NC.
22nd Annual Autumn in the Mountains British and European Automobile and Motorcycle Show
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I am awed by
- Your willingness to take on a project of this magnitude.
- Your having the woodworking skills to required.
- The progress you have made so far.
I’ll be watching your progress with enthusiasm. It will be fun to see such a neat car brought back to life. I’ll also be looking for ideas and approaches to use myself.
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“ The first thing that took my attention was how low reving this motor is. To the point that a tacho is just unnecessary! Seat of the pants driving will do just fine.”
Years ago, when I was much younger, I traded a bunch of locust fence posts and rails that I had split for an Allis Chalmers 1945 WD 45 tractor (non running). I rebuilt the tractor engine.
As part of that exercise, I found the distributor advance springs broken. I took the distributor to a local speed shop for new springs. When asked what the max rpm was, I mentioned the manual’s 2500 rpm spec. The gentlemen reached into a bin of spare springs and told me to take whatever length and thickness would fit.
I learned something that day, and provided lots of smiles for a bunch of speed enthusiasts. That was well over 50 years ago, but I remember the smiles well. Tractor worked fine with the springs I chose.
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“I can't put the radiator shell back on until I find a way to fix a couple of cracks in the thin grille bars (down low) which were from being rusted thin. The spots are too thin to weld.”
I have read that modern car manufacturers and the aircraft industry are now heavily into bonding metal (both aluminum and steel) sheets together. As your thin grill bars are to be painted, not plated, you might consider making an appropriately shaped piece of sheet metal, feathering the edges, and bonding it with adhesive. I believe 3M, among others, makes adhesives for this application. I will bet that you will end up with a grill bar that looks as good as new, and is just as strong as original.
I love your Nash, by the way.
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Threads like this one are a major reason I enjoy this forum. Timecapsule, thanks for asking the questions you did. Bloo and F&J, thank you for the in-depth answers. I am learning a lot from this thread.
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Hi Eric,
Can you tell us a little more about the braking behavior? I have had several 1930s cars with mechanical brakes and one 1940s car with mechanical brakes. My experience is that they should behave like a those of a pre -ABS car -like any well-behaved car of the 1950s or 1960s. Sometimes more fade, and generally not good for panic stops. However, they should be responsive, always track a straight line, and make the tires the limiting factor.
Phil
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Thanks for posting!
I have to admit, I prefer the pre-war stuff - but here, there was something for everyone. Great pictures. It must have been a fun show.
Thanks.
PMH
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Keiser, you need to paint your deck!
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A truly beautiful car - and appears to be in beautiful shape. Congratulations on being the new owner.
It is interesting to see priming cups on the engine of a 1930's car. Were there any other cars that modern that had priming cups?
Phil
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Dave,
How neat! Congratulations and best wishes to you both! This is the best news I have read in a long time.
Phil
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Jeff,
I think your car has turned out to be truly beautiful. I’m sorry to learn of its oil leaking problems.
With respect to the oil problem, I think JV Puleo is on the right track.
I recommend you do an experiment before pulling the engine or taking any other drastic measure: Drain your engine sump to where it is at the half full level, then run it for a test drive. I’m not familiar with the XPAG engine in your car, but have had a similar experiences with Morgans with Triumph engines. For example, my current Morgan (a 1966 Plus 4 with a Triumph TR4A engine) leaks shamelessly with the oil level at “Full”. I have learned to keep the sump at the half full level. At “Half Full” there are no leaks at all. This was the case with my earlier ’63 Plus 4 and ’60 Plus 4 as well.
Good luck!
Phil
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These two are don't look to be the same to me: Window treatments are different, the green model sports a radio antenna.
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Glad that you are OK. How much damage did you do to the truck?
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If you would like a fun vicarious ride, watch this video of a 1929 Bentley, driven well. Compared to most of the other cars, it is a behemoth. You can tell the driver is having a great time, at one with his car.
What is the white car that passes the Bentley as if it were standing still, at about 1.50 minutes into the video? I’d like to get close to that car.
There are several drivers of other impressive cars that seem to show respect to the Bentley - one proud car and driver to another. See the action at 7.4 minutes and also at 13.13 minutes.
Look at the radiator cap and the right front fender, and note how stable the car is at speed. This car is pre - synchromesh. Listen to the up-shifts and down-shifts. This is a well set up car!
I hope you enjoy this video as much as I have.
Phil
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Jeff,
The MG TDs were handsome cars when they were new. Yours is now probably better than new. On windy, hilly, country roads, they were a thrill to drive. I hope you have those sorts of roads near you, so you can enjoy the car as it should be enjoyed. Thanks especially for all your documentation of your restoration. I have learned a lot, and you have inspired me to begin work on a project of mine that has lagged for several years. Thanks again for this thread.
Phil
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1 hour ago, 8E45E said:
"I pulled you over because your daytime running lights aren't working, but now I see your car's too OLD!" (I knew I wasn't speeding as I was stuck behind a semi-trailer who wasn't doing even close to the speed limit.)
He probably wanted to look at your 1966 Studebaker!
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I've never been. But, I think this year I will go. Any prewar parts? Any British sports car parts?
PMH
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Rivguy,
Good luck with your ignition system. I smiled when I read that your previous owner had installed a transister system. I did that myself, years ago. I found that there was one major problem: When it failed, it failed catastrophically. However, when the standard system failed, I could always recover by doing the usual things - checking and cleaning connections, cleaning and adjusting the points, replacing a condenser. Now my preference is always to make the original system work correctly, and maintain it. That said, I still suggest some slight changes below.
I have found that neither OEM nor new condensers are particularly reliable. I recommend you take an original condenser, hollow it out, and embed a small ceramic one. It can look original, but will be far more reliable. I found the idea and its description here:
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mog-group/566a5785-576d-4c5d-9c5a-28a6ccc787cd%40googlegroups.com
And here is a link where you can buy them:
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/kemet/C350C224KDR5TA/789646
My MK IX (and, I think, your MK VII) had the twin fuel pumps mounted under the floorboards behind the passenger seat. Once the points oxidized a little, they became unreliable. A small hammer or a block of wood was commonly carried by those of us who had these cars. A light tap on the fuel pump usually got it working. The more permanent fix for this problem is to install a transil on the fuel pump points. The transil minimizes the arcing of the points and makes them last much, much longer without requiring attention. I purchased mine in 2017 from Peter Cole. I’m not sure if he is still supplying them, but here is his email address:
pcoleuk@gmail.com
If he isn’t supplying them, he might be able to provide the specifications.
Phil
Favorite Pictures of My Pre War Buick
in Buick - Pre War
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Leif,
That is a truly handsome car! I am envious,
Thanks for sharing.