David_Leech
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Posts posted by David_Leech
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I bought this exhaust dump a few years back and finally got to installing it today. Before everyone gets bent out of shape, this is totally reversible. This was a common aftermarket accessory back in the day. Activated by a cable on my steering column. Has anyone else installed something like this?
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Thanks. I've just converted mine.
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I'm in the process of replacing the water pump bearings on my 28 standard six. The outer races are a precise fit, but they can be pushed in by hand. I'm fairly sure this is not correct. I have seen this on some heavy truck king pin set ups, and that is by design. The roller bearings are nice and tight on the shaft. I don't see any signs the original outer races were spinning though. I'm leaning towards using loctite bearing retaining compound to secure them in place. I should have kept the original ones to see how they fit. I'm pretty sure they just came out as well though (it's been a while). Has anyone been into one of these and had this issue? I'd hate for them to spin and ruin the casting
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Just got it apart. The two tapered bearings have failed in the front of the water pump
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Kept the revs low and checked on it every so often. Made it home ok. Just waiting for it to cool down and I will see what is going on. Other than that, it was running fantastic today. I think the ignition problems are past me and so are the starting issues.
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Pulley is fine, took the fan blades off and tightened the nut on the end of the water pump. The play is gone. I can't remember how the pump goes together, but it should us home until I can take it apart and have a better look. The question is, what is letting go to cause the play? The cotter pin was still in place.
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We are at the show now, I have some basic tools on the way. Going to take it apart and see what's wrong. Not driving it as it is that's for sure
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At a show, on the way there was a bad rattling sound. The fan pulley is loose on the water pump. The shaft is right, but the fan blades and pulley are loose. I have limited tools here. Need to know how it goes together, I can rememberthanks
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The starter is rebuilt and cranks over fantastic now. No ground to the starter, just the frane
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4 hours ago, trimacar said:
If you really want best ground, run a ground cable directly from battery to starter mounting bolt, cleaning surface of paint and primer. Makes a huge difference. I have one car with ground going both to starter and to frame, no issues and engine turns over quite well.
They started well when new, with nice clean frame connections. 100 years of rust and corrosion, not so much…
I'm going to run a ground to the new starter end plate. That's where mine is getting it's ground. For now, running it from the end plate to the frame or another good location. If I'm not happy, then I'll run one to the battery
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7 hours ago, Mattml430 said:
I spent 12 months next to a marine electrician completely re wiring a 72 foot cruiser and on all the cables, especially high current cable he always told me to crimp them before soldering them.
He told me if ever there was a loose terminal the solder can melt and then it would come loose.
It made good sense after he explained that, so did your man crimp your terminals before soldering them, he most probably did.When I solder them I fill the lug with solder and once it's melted, plunge the cable in. Couldn't crimp it if I wanted to.
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22 hours ago, Farmallregular said:
NOT TRUE...the skin effect only applies to alternating current, not to DC. At DC, current distributes more or less uniformly through the conductor.
Any place that works on over the road trucks will have, or can make/get, 2/0 cables.
Keith
I'm at a Mack Truck dealer, made my cables here with 2/0 and soldered on copper lugs. Ran dual starter relays bridged with a copper bus. Not taking any chances with this installation!
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48 minutes ago, nearchoclatetown said:
It probably broke because it's 100 years old and made of pot metal. The new one will be cast in aluminum and last 200 years.
My distributor is currently returning to it's elemental form due to being 100 years old and pot metal. Hopefully this is the same case.
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52 minutes ago, edinmass said:
Have you bought modern parts lately? 200 bucks is cheap. That’s less than a tank of fuel for my 3500 pick up. Just be thankful it’s available. It would cost you two grand to make a single one…..and months of work. Any pre war car that’s broken and the repair is less than a grand……..is free.I hear you on that. Once I got it off, I went straight to Myers and sighed in relief that it was available. I agree, $235 isnt that bad, but I don't have to be happy about it!
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1928 Standard Six.
My starter end plate has shattered. North East Electeic. Good news is they are available from Myers, bad news is they are $235.00
Any idea what could have caused this to happen? I suspect the starter was staying engaged or something like that. I don't want to break another!
Follow up question, is there a difference in the Canadian and USA models?
Secondary question, does anyone have a good used one they are willing to sell?
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Great advice, thanks!
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Thanks for the advice. I just located my real hard start issue, the rear housing on the starter fractured. Not sure how. New topic to follow...
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I think this is similar to what I'm dealing with. It is the only posting I can find so far
https://www.1916simplex.com/post/restoration-of-the-driveline
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5 hours ago, Power Wagon Dude said:
Good Information on Sizing of wire.
When I rebuilt my D-B, I took the 'flexible' Armored wire cover to my local Electrical (Wholesale) store and asked them to put the largest copper wire they could 'fit' in that flexible conduit. They suggested that I use a THN or THHN 'Heat Resisting' wire insulation.
I also had them install / 'Crimp" on copper lugs and shrink fit tubing (Red for Hot - Black for neutral) onto the lugs, so wire polarity was never in question.
I have NEVER had a problem with melting or damaging any of these wires.
Good Luck, from someone who Been there - Done that.
I'm going to take the old cables to work this week and make new ones. I will solder on the new lugs. I think we have #4 to 0000 in stock.
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There are two screws, are these for lubricant?
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On further inspection, I'm not sure it is a ball and trunnion. It looks like a ujoint turned inside out. Instead of being driven by a cross through the center of the yokes, the yokes are in the center and the ujoint surrounds them, driven by the ring.
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Is there any maintenance on this? Does anyone have pictures of what their driveshaft setup looks like?
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1928 Standard Six
What is the maintenance on the universal joints? I'm not even sure that's what these are to be honest. How does this even work? Are these flex discs?
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33 minutes ago, Bloo said:
#00 would be a good choice. Some cars got by on less (maybe #1) but probably never as small as the #4 typically sold for 12v systems today.
<Smaller> - 8 - 4 - 2 - 1 - 0 - 00 - 000 - 0000 - <Larger>
Think of it as a big circle from the battery post to the starter post, through the windings, and then from the starter case all the way back to the other post of the battery.
For instance, if the ground cable goes to the frame instead of the engine/transmission, then there needs to be a third battery cable (or strap) running from the frame to the engine/transmission. It needs to be as good as the positive and the negative cable.
00! There's my problem...
It's running what looks like #4 and just has a braided chassis ground. I knew I was going to need to make some cables, just surprised how undersized they really are!
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I bought this exhaust dump a few years back and finally got to installing it today. Before everyone gets bent out of shape, this is totally reversible. This was a common aftermarket accessory back in the day. Activated by a cable on my steering column. Has anyone else installed something like this?
Exhaust dump on a 28 Standard Six
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
No matter how I tried, the picture wouldn't upload right way up. Even if I flipped it before uploading