Wheelmang
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Posts posted by Wheelmang
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Well the block is at my trusted machine shop. He has 35 engines ahead of me and it will likely be this fall before I can get it completed. In the mean time he does not do Babbitt. I have called everyone he recommended that is within an 8 hour drive of me and none are taking in any new work because they are so backed up. If only I was about 30 years younger, what a business opportunity. I live in NW GA about an 90 minutes north of Atlanta and an hour southeast of Chattanooga, TN. If anyone has info on someone who still does Babbitt bearings anywhere near please let me know.
Thanks
Paul.
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Thanks for the quick responses. Sorry for the wrong terminology, I knew better. The crank has been reground. Definitely will on the Dodge Brothers club and the manuals.
Edit - just tried to log onto the Club and my malware program blocked it. Just want to make sure the link above is correct before over riding the block. I suspect it's because of the HTTP address without the "S"
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It has been about four years since working on my 1926 DB 6V. I threw a rod and sidelined it while completing two other restorations. My goal now is to complete the restoration in time for it's 100th birthday. So - here we go. The block is saved due to a top of the line welder who fixed the crack where the rod hit the inside of the block. I am now ready to get it on the engine stand and took piston bore measurement. It is my understanding that the OE bore is 3.9"? The thing that is confusing me is the bores are measuring 3.88". There is no ridge at the top of the bore and the pistons have no markings with the exception of one that has a faint "std".
The crank is resurfaced. Are the spacers that were on the rods used to adjust for resurfaced crank journals or is there another purpose. What should main and rod clearance be.
I am also looking for a parts source. I have purchased from someone in the upper Midwest (Myers maybe?) but cannot find my info.
Thanks all for looking and commenting.
Paul
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Hi: I have a tank that came along with a bunch of extra parts for my 26 DB. There was not room here to post additional pictures. Please PM me if it looks like it will work and I can send additional pictures. I has a couple of dents that I think will pop out if a little pressure is put to the tank.
Paul
![IMG_1024[1].JPG](//content.invisioncic.com/r277599/monthly_2020_04/1827449794_IMG_10241.thumb.JPG.bff6c577aff12995e5c8459eba7d5b17.JPG)
![IMG_1025[1].JPG](//content.invisioncic.com/r277599/monthly_2020_04/1945865640_IMG_10251.thumb.JPG.0a80d5ecb244c5e76bcda2aea0fe9208.JPG)
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Senior Six - None of what I have is the 200002, also checked to your measurements and no matches. Sorry.
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Life got in the way of best plans today and did not make it to the shop. Tomorrow for sure.
Keiser - not sure about the interchangeabilty. I have a late 20s 6 cyl that is dismantled and have no plans to rebuild so hope the numbers line up.
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Sorry but I do not agree with oiling the threads. Occasionally a "drop of oil" is mentioned for wheel studs or bolts in best practice instructions. The issue with that is the interpretation of a drop frequently evolves to a drop or two dripping off the stud after application. Wheel torque is measured as dry torque. They should be tightened to "X" torque and then re-torqued after a day or two of use. If you insist on oiling then, please, 1 (one) drop of oil on the outermost thread. I have seen the catastrophic result of many wheel offs on trash trucks through out my career. Oiling the threads is one of the many causes for loss of torque.
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The 200002 is what I think is needed. Headed to my shop a little later today and will see if I have matching number rods. Let you know tonight.
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May be able to help with this. Do you have a number that is on the side of the rod.
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Hi Terry - Welcome to the forum. You state you have most of the studs out. The assumption is you have all the retention devices holding the head on the block removed and only the studs, on which nuts would be, remain. Having said that I heard of, have not tried, a method that used rope threaded into all of the spark plug holes and reduced the area on top of the pistons with a somewhat compressible substance. Once there is an amount of rope on the top of each piston then turn the engine over. In theory will push the head off the block. Maybe someone who has tried this can chime in with yes this works or worst thing ever done.
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Hi Guys: I am normally found on the DB forum or over on the MGEXP site. While talking with someone about babbit material he mentioned a fully rebuilt "A" engine that is for sale. I also spoke with the gentleman who did the rebuilding as he was the babbit expert. He is looking for something around 3K for the engine and it is in central Ohio. Is that is a fair price? If anyone is interested please PM me and I will give you the contact info.
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I can’t remember if it is a key way drift pin or something else that holds the gear in place but certainly sounds like something is stripped worn or sheared off.
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Your gear looks like it is rotating on an eccentric shaft or bore. Are the teeth on the gear worn or is it the bore on the gear.
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You may want to try Harbor Freight about $25. Low quality and low price but decide how many times are you going to use it. If frequent use, then OTC or Snap On $100+ but quality cost$.
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I had a couple of spare gears but just took a look at them and both are worn. Into the scrap metal bin!
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Just watched your video. If memory is correct, that drive that you were moving with the screwdriver should only move when the transmission is rotating. You may want to pull the drive gear assembly and make sure nothing is stripped, broken or worn in there.
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Played with the logo a little and not a pretty picture but the lettering is a little more visible. Almost looks like a figure in the center of the picture but cannot tell what it is. Perhaps someone from Brookfield will have a copy of the original logos from 1947.
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Welcome, 1947Dodge! (Justin), to the site. You will find an incredible amount of knowledge among the world wide membership. I have never stumped anyone.
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The truck in at it's new home and it had a little brother come along with it. He also got a 1947, we think, dump truck in the deal. The only info on the dump truck so far is a Vin number of T120-89498. I did not see that series of numbers on any of the links and think Justin may have missed a couple digits. The thought is that the dump may serve as a donor vehicle for what ever the fire truck may need.
Back to the original start of this post. The fire truck after setting for more than ten years still had the tires inflated. A few pictures follow.
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I did not realize that Chrysler Corp continued utilizing the DB logo this long after the acquisition. When did they stop?
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Great info. Thanks all for the assistance. Justin tried to sign up last night but hit a glitch. Trying to work through it for him now. Hope to see many more pictures soon.
Thanks again
Paul
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Does this look like yours?
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A potential future son in law was given an antique fire truck. It looks like a lot of work but doable. Can anyone identify the year from the attached? Hasn’t run in ten or more years. I will ask for more pictures but have also encouraged him to join the club.
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Probably have the bell crank. Will look a little later today or tomorrow.
![IMG_1024[1].JPG](http://content.invisioncic.com/r277599/monthly_2020_04/1862105098_IMG_10241.JPG.3478cc61ab698dfe58be9127c1cbd8c0.JPG)
![IMG_1025[1].JPG](http://content.invisioncic.com/r277599/monthly_2020_04/1040405750_IMG_10251.JPG.bdc29ea27a160cc05b4eaecabc7254ae.JPG)
Dodge Brothers 6V v 12V internals
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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I have two 1926 DB engines. Are there differences on the internal components between a 6V and 12V. My 6V is at the machine shop but the 12 volt engine looks like it may have a lot of relatively recent parts replaced. Valves, lifters, cam shaft to be specific. Crank looks great but mine has already been reground. Main bearing caps have the same casting numbers as my 6V.
Thanks
Paul