NickG

Thanks mate, I've adjusted the pedal correctly, such that there's no binding. I didn't know the spring kit for the 1963 model worked. I think I'll order that kit for my '56. Is that the front and rear kit? I'm pretty happy with the drum brakes. Thankfully I've never had to perform an emergency stop in the Buick, but I feel that, should it ever be required, it will pull up adequately. Thanks for the site. I've never heard of them before, but will order a few bits and pieces to have here as spare. Hi mate. That's interesting. I ended up centering the shoes and readjusting them. Kept on bleeding them until I was certain the system had been purged of air and haven't had any issues since. Has your unit been rebuilt or worked on?

I've heard good things about Rigid in the past. If they are really guaranteed forever, then that is impressive.

Hi mate, I'm in Melbourne, Australia, and was lucky enough to have a local place rebuild my power brake unit. At a last resort, I was condescending the above-mentioned place in New York, Apple Hydraulics. The general consensus is pretty positive regarding their work, but the cost to have it sent from Australia to New York, then to have the work completed, and then back to Australia, would have been outrageous. All the best with your unit. If I can ask, what is wrong with yours? G'day Frank, Yes, you're right. Luckily enough, the shop was in the same state, too. At a guess, I'd say that grit was pushed into the wheel cylinder at some point during installation, and that is what caused the scoring of the cylinder wall. That is a very good point and one I did not consider, but in the end, I replaced all four wheel cylinders, bleed the system, this time with the help of a friend, and it has worked perfectly ever since. For what people say regarding old drum brake systems, I have to say that in my experience, this system has been quite good - now that everything has been freshened up. The only issue I have is pedal return; it is hit and miss. Most of the time the pedal will return at what I consider a 'normal' speed, but sometimes, usually when cold, the pedal is very slow to return to the rest position. Rarely, I have to assist the pedal in returning. Unfortunately, the springs weren't changed as they were impossible to source here. So, if anyone knows of a place that has the full spring kit (front and rear), then I'd greatly appreciate any help.

It's definitely going to cost more overall, but it is the most convenient and practical solution; it's merely a slight modification to an existing network. It's perfect! This is has computer control and all the gear that goes with it, the other compressors are just on and off buttons. The point is, the new one sits at 30kW for a minute - minute-and-a-half, then when pressurized, and whilst working with tools, doesn't go past 5kW. It's fine running most of the tools, even with two circular saws running, but the lathe and demolition saw border on its capacity. They're fantastic! I wish I had implemented them sooner. I can only speak pertaining to compressors. With the load/unload control system, the compressor is still consuming 1/3 of its rated power when unloaded! All the energy - and money - is going to waste. The VSD is a great addition where appropriate. Wow, what a great array of machinery. Glad to know it's still in service. They're from a time when things were built to last.

I didn't end up posting it here, but over on the initial Australia forum I posted an update. I'll post it below. It's served you well for 25 years and continues to do so. I haven't heard of Dynabrade. If you use them in your business application, then they must be of a good quality. I agree, after considering everyone's advice, the air tools still hold a special place and I doubt I'll change. I'm not familiar with energy prices in the States, but that sounds quite reasonable. Without the compressor running, my bill has never been under $800 AUD a month. G'day everyone, A quick update for those interested. 110kW compressor is up and running. My electricity provider will be loving me. Also, more importantly, I have been poring over everyone's contributions and have made a decision. Considering I have all the tools I'll ever need and the appropriate infrastructure is already in place, I've decided to install a smaller compressor and dryer to provide air to the shed for the purpose of powering tools when the main compressor isn't operating. It will no doubt cost more, both upfront and ongoing, but I feel it is more practical to use an existing system, rather than staring anew. The compressor is a 30kW VSD screw compressor. 30kW is a low of power, but being a VSD, it is able to regulate power consumption according to demand, rather than a load/unload control system. It should seldom run at the full 30kW; just at startup to charge the system, but it is nice to have some reserve capacity. Thanks to everyone for their contributions, it has been a great learning experience and I certainly am armed with knowledge should I go forth and buy a few battery tools.

I have heard of Rigid being aimed towards the plumbing sector, but that's about it. Very true, nothing seems to have the longevity of tools from yesteryear. Just as well! Your electricity provider must be happy with you. Of course they would do that, the less-compatibility the more locked-in you become. That's right, but many years ago our supply was upgraded and over-rated, such that there's is enough capacity; it's being pushed to its limit now! That's right. Over the years it has been upgraded significantly, the last upgrade employed CT metering I recall, but I will have to check what the rating is.

I haven't given much thought to a solar and battery system yet. It will be investigated in the future. $2000 isn't bad at all, quite reasonable. The technology has come a long way from the NiCad batteries. I believe they're pretty resilient, too. I agree, having one system, pneumatic, hydraulic, electric, is the ideal situation. That's for the explanation and good to know Milwaukee is doing you well. Might stay away from the DeWalt cordless gear. Brushless seems to be the way to go. But I think, from what you've said, air tools are more appropriate for my application. I tend to push my tools hard. Agreed. They're great at loosening, but would always use a torque wrench for tightening. You must be pushing your mains service to its limits! Haven't heard much of Rigid here. Maybe it's aimed towards the professional market, but I seldom, if ever, come across their gear. Nothing wrong with old tools if they get the job done. I think I would prefer an old tool against a new on in all honesty. Cost isn't too much of a consideration as long as they're reliable and get the job done. I agree, buy the expensive one. You'll regret the cheap ones.

That's good to know. My biggest fear is battery longevity. I suppose you only get a few good years of use before its capacity start to deteriorate.

For applications where shorts bursts of air are required, then that works perfectly. But here, when usings saws and lathes, a constant demand for high pressure and high flow is required. But I see your point. There are a lot of idiots who like to play the 'let's see how close I can get' game. How do you find battery life and battery longevity? A cordless spray gun? I've heard it all now That's true, the air tools work great and I certainly have nothing against air - in fact, it is my first preference over anything. At the end of the day, it was an attempt to reduce the electricity bill. Much more economical to charge a few batteries that to power a compressor and air dryer. We're limited with what we can do with our single-phase service, but this compressor is powered by a three-phase supply; it would be pulling more than 200A if it were fed from our 240V single-phase supply! When the pumps are running, the cost of running the air tools is insignificant; however, when the pumps are not running and only the air tools are being used, then this is reversed. The pumps are only used for irrigation and maintaining water levels; the water we consume is municipal water. Leaks were a problem, but they have all since been corrected and the system will hold pressure once the compressor has stopped. In its day, this place was a farm, but now it's just a house on a few hundred acres, so all this equipment is for a home with two occupants. Maybe it made sense back then, but it is outdated now.

They're not the cheapest compressor, but I love my compressors and air tools, so we can overlook that slight matter. Either way, 110kW set us back a few hundred grand, so there's a lot of recovery to do. But yes, you're right. It will take a long time to break even. Ha ha, I'll even include earmuffs too

Was thinking of another screw compressor or even a scroll compressor. The scrolls are much quieter. Won't be going back to a reciprocating compressor.

That's a fair point, but most of the time the pumps aren't running and a 50kW compressor is powering only a drill, grinder, or a few saws. I think the advice of a member above is the most logical. Isolate the plumbing in the shed and install a smaller compressor which will supply that section with air. I'm embarrassed to say that had never crossed my mind.

It's not so much tools, but a quirk of the house I live in. The house is on a very large property. All water runoff is directed to two underground tanks and a massive dam. When the place was built in the 1930s, for reasons unknown, water was pumped out of the tanks and dam instead of passing through overflows. Due to technology at the time (possibly) the water pumps used were driven by air. Over the years the pumps have been upgraded to more powerful models, thus requiring more air and a bigger compressor. The pumps have been upgraded again in recent years and now the compressor cannot maintain adequate pressure, hence the addition on the 110kW unit.

I've heard good things about Makita, they're well priced, too. Very surprising to see the 40V Makita is as good as the pneumatic one. The technology has come a long way. The idea of changing was born from starting a new project car and to try save on electricity costs. The cost to run a 50kW compressor is astronomical. This is soon to be replaced with a 110kW unit, but that's a story for another day. The impact drill, electric or pneumatic, are lifesavers there. Very true, as long as the compressor is running the tools will work, but it will cost a lot more in the long term. Agreed, the versatility and flexibility of cordless tools makes them very attractive. In a sense, corded tools aren't too dissimilar from pneumatic tools in the sense you're still tethered to either a cable or air hose. That's a good point, too. Batteries have a relatively short life when compared to any air tool. I agree, this system here isn't broken so don't go looking for issues. I'm trying to save a lot by spending a little now. It works out to ~$15AUD an HOUR to run the compressor. It will run for 10 hours a day, which is fair (sometimes more), giving a total cost of $150AUD per day. From what I've heard from other mates, Makita is very popular and their product is of good quality. That's reassuring to know their after sales support is good. That's surprising to hear about Milwaukee; I've been told their gear is good, but their customer support is lacking as you say.

And here there are air tools which pre-date me by decades. A circular saw, which is still heavily used, is at least 50 years old and is scarily powerful.

The cordless technology is great, but sometimes there's a need for the power of a mains-voltage tool, as in your case. I've never had that problem with air, as most are very powerful. I can understand the concern with the router, especially if it starts slowing down and tears whatever it is you're routing. Yes, fair point, I'm aware you're on 120V, but here we're on 240V. Actually, it's closer to 230V. Ah, yes, the cost for the batter is quite significant.

Being locked-in to one brand is what is dislike most. With air tools it's an anything goes environment, regardless of the brand. Honestly, cost isn't a massive considering, as the cost of running the compressor and air dryer is outrages already. You're right, once you're locked-in you're pretty much stuck until it's worthwhile changing. There's a lot of freedom with air tools there. Yes, most, if not all work will be done in a shed. The plumbing extends the entirety of the property, so you're always in a reasonable distance of an air supply. I'm leaning towards that option, as all the plumbing is there and, really, it just makes sense. It's only a matter of creating a new three-phase circuit.

G'day everyone, Firstly, Happy New Year to all! I posted this over on an Australian forum, seeing as I am Australian, but I'd like to get a wider range of opinions. Here is the original topic; G’day everyone, I’ll be restoring an old American car in the new year and am after some help regarding tools. As it is now, I’ve got a pretty extensive compressed air system. As a result, over the years, I’ve acquired enough air tools to sink a battle ship; drills, impact drivers, circular saws, chainsaws, grinders, even drill presses and a lathe. For the odd job here and there they work fine. It’s a bit more work to set up, but they are very powerful and do the job; just don’t start on the cost. With that said, my question is, do/should air tools still hold a place in the home/work environment? Or is it better to replace the older air tools with newer ones? If not, what brands do people recommend for electric tools? How do 240V tools compare against 12/24/48V equivalents? I love my air tools, and they certainly still have their place, despite the drawbacks, but I see now as a good time to modernize. Here's a link to the forum for those interested: https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/thread/3rvjnrn2 Cheers

Thanks mate, he's worth a shot. Very true, but these had 'Made in USA' stamped on them, but I was disappointed when they arrived That would be ideal, but I've had a bad experience with this company's re-sleeving services; one was still leaking after being re-sleeved.I assume most of what you buy these days is sub-par quality and not to the standard of the part that's being replaced. Ah yes, lovely air quality there Nick

Hi everyone, I'm still in the process of sorting out braking issues with my '56 and have run into some trouble with sourcing parts. I've ordered front and rear wheel cylinders, twice, and both were made in China. Now, they will probably work just fine, but I would prefer wheel cylinders to be made in the US. With that said, does anyone know of a place or brand where said wheel cylinders are made in the States? Nick

I stand corrected, you're right. Thanks for sharing this information. Looks good, well worth the investment. It would save a lot of hassle. Generally speaking, what is the reliability of these units from this era? I've read that the model in my Buick appears to be reliable, but there are mixed opinions. With regular brake fluid changes I don't see why it would be inherently unreliable. If anyone can shed some light regarding this, it would be greatly appreciated. Nick

Update: The rear passenger-side wheel cylinder is leaking considerably. There was a large puddle of brake fluid on the ground this morning and fluid level in the reservoir has also dropped. I am now convinced the system is free from air and that the cause of poor pedal performance resulted from the leaking wheel cylinder. Below is the wheel cylinder I received AFTER being sent off for re-sleeving. Notice the considerable scoring on the cylinder wall; the piston is unserviceable and should not have been reused. Safe to say, I will no longer be using their services and will instead order new ones from the States. I should mention that this a DIFFERENT company than those who rebuilt the master cylinder. So far I am happy with the master cylinder, although it hasn't been road tested. Nick

How so? I was under the impression that 1956 had only one power brake unit In all my years on working on cars I haven't encountered any trouble bleeding brakes. I know it is unwise to completely rule out the master cylinder as being problematic, but it was only rebuilt last week. I'm going to check each wheel cylinder, as, although unlikely, there at be a leak at one

Thanks John, I'll give that a go tomorrow and report back. I have read on this forum that the '56 seems to be quite a chore to bleed completely Nick

Interestingly, with the engine off the brake pedal is quite firm and it appears to maintain pressure in the system. When the engine is running, the pedal will bottom out. I can only assume there is an air pocket somewhere in the line, possibly at a high point, and when the engine is running the vacuum assistance helps compress whatever air is in the line. I will re-bleed the system tomorrow and hopefully the problem disappears. The pedal also needs to be adjusted accordingly Nick