Bart55

Gents, I have attached a few pictures of the engine and the only body number I can find. Is the tag with the "AW" number the vehicle number? I included the engine number as I read in previous posts dos not align with the "DSI" numbers of the 1934 Dictator. I am curious if anyone can identify these numbers? I am trying to acquire a title before I start a body off restoration. Thanks Jack

Anyone out there in Studebaker land know where I can find the vehicle number on my 1934 Dictator 4 door? I looked at the left front frame rail, where I see in the posts above describe that the ID plate should be located, didn't see any evidence of anything previously attached there. I also looked on the rear frame rail cross members but no joy. I have looked all along the bottom and outside the frame rails on both sides of the car and found nothing. The body is on the frame, would the ID number be stamped on the top of the frame rail and to see it I have to remove the body? I too am trying to get it registered as there is no title, so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jack

I am missing the 1 original tail light lens , license light lens and bezels to retain them. I found them on the internet, but at $155.00 each for the red lens and have to buy 2 as they will not split up the set, and $99.00 for the license lens and $50.00 each for dented and damaged bezels, I decided to try to find some different lights to adapt to the original housings, which I was sure that I could find cheaper than spending $500+ dollars. Well I found 1937 ford tail lights on Speedway motors at $49 for the right & $54 for the left. These come with LED lights and nice chrome bezels. They are slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the original light opening. I cut the bezel ends off the 37 ford lights,(how much to cut is up to each individual) and then drilled 4 holes in the original 36 housings and inserted the 37 Ford light housings in the originals and centered them with sheet metal screws. I test fit the lights to insure they will fit evenly and the bezel will fit against the original housing. I then welded them in. I removed the screws and welded the screw holes. The license lens is shorter than the original but the width is the same. You will have to fill in the gap which is approx 1/4 inch each end with either a thick gasket or weld in metal to fill the gap. I made a thick gasket. I did not take pictures of the process but have attached photos of the finished product. I have turn signals, brake and running lights. They are bright and I think they are safer than the original lights. I need to mention I upgraded the wiring system to 12 volts. I just wanted to put this out as I know there are purest who would frown on this modification, but to us that cannot afford $500+ dollars for a lens it is an option and in my opinion looks good. Jack

Gents, Finally got my windshield installed. The Steele gasket fit perfectly. I have added a couple of pictures with the install completed. There is no way 1 person can install this windshield. I also found that it is necessary to lay the windshield on a large piece of plywood Insert the glass in the frame then install the rubber around the frame, with the center blocked up with the divider gasket installed to mimic the "V" as it would be installed in the car. Insert a soap soaked rope under the lip that will face the outside. It takes 2 people to maintain the angle of the glass and then install into position in the car. A 3rd person will pull the rope slowly to pull the rubber lip over the body all the while the 2 people in the car holding the glass by putting minor pressure to hold it in place,. Once the lip is completely over the body, install the interior frame. If not the windshield frames will slowly move away from the opening and fall inside the car. This rubber should be cut a little long so that where the ends will meet under the divider bar will not have a gap. I am sure there are more experienced people than me installing this windshield, and maybe I was doing it the hard way, but the end result I am very happy with. Good luck installing yours. Jack

I found a 1936 dodge moulding. I will have to modify it slightly to dill in and re-drill the screw holes in the correct places and counter sink the to look correct. Dimensionally it is really close, so modifications will be minimal.

I have found a window garnish moulding that will work, so I no longer need one.

I have a 1936 Desoto Airstream S-1 4 door sedan. I am in search of the inside quarter window garnish moulding and glass run assembly which is the weatherstrip and window mounting. I have the passenger side and am looking for the driver side moulding. This trim has 5 screw holes for mounting. There are no part numbers on the trim moulding I have. Does anyone have a parts manual which shows this part and if possible post the part number to help in my search? The chrysler/ Dodge has 4 or 6 mounting holes P/N 721540. I imagine if I could find one I could modify it to fit my need. I have attached a couple of pictures of what I have. Thanks Jack Missouri

Gents, I ordered and just received the windshield gasket from Steele Rubber products. I do not know why they do not list this in the 1936 Desoto Airstream category for split windshields. It fits perfectly. I cut a small piece to show the fit. I will be installing this week. The rubber is very pliable and should conform to the corner radius's without a problem. Jack Missouri

Gents, EUREKA!! I went on Steele rubber company website and decided to look for a generic rubber channel I may be able to use for the weather strip for the windshield. Well as I was looking through all the products, I stumbled across the CORRECT windshield rubber. Its in the universal section. It has a drawing and picture of the rubber, so I checked the dimensions against my frame and it will fit perfectly. It is $4.40 per foot. PN- 40-0015-52. Check it out, it is an exact duplicate rubber remnant as seen in the pictures posted above by VW4X4 Jack

Thanks Eric for this valuable information. I believe I either have an original or a very good re-pop. I compared the measurements you sent and they are the same dimensions best I can tell. On the frame I have though in the pictures I attached there are "tabs". There were 3 when I found them but 1 has broken when I tried to straighten it. I may have to Tig it back on if it is needed. The frame also has the small 1/4 inch vertical tab sets and "AMCO" stamped in several places. This car was a basket case when I got it and have been assembling it from pictures of completed cars. The windshield frame has been a big mystery and you have helped immensely. I am going to sketch a seal from the pictures you posted and send to Steele rubber. Maybe they can reproduce it now that the design of it is more clear. Will post on here if I am successful.

VW4X4, Thank you for your information. I have experienced Bernbaums ability to supply incorrect parts such as the windshield rubber, and I had them cut all the glass and the 2 rear door windows were the only ones to fit. Am still dealing with them to get it right. I have found what looks like 2 aftermarket window frames that I may be able to use, because they have the basic shape and not sure what vehicle it came from. Would you happen to have a picture of the windshield frame? I have attached a few pictures of the frame I found, the only issue will be getting the seal for it, and also a picture of the inside frame I believe is to be mounted next to the windshield frame on the inside.

I have a 1948 Dodge coupe. I do not have a title. I built this car for my stepson and is road ready now but... Looking through the information on the DMV website in Missouri without an original title,I will not be able to register the car. Has anyone had this experience in Missouri? Were you able to get a title? If so how did you do it? The bill of sale is not enough anymore. Any advice on how to obtain a title would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I also have a 1936 Desoto airstream custom (basket case). When I got it there were no windows in it at all. I purchased windows but the windshield has a frame on the inside the best I can figure its to hold the glass and rubber in place. Do the 2 windows which make up the windshield have individual frames? I ask because there is about a 3/4 inch gap between the inner frame and the outer part of the body which the rubber will seal against. Seems like a very large gap for the window and the gasket. The window rubber I purchased from Bernbaums appears to have a lip that will extend over the front of the body, and I may need to carefully trim a couple of notches it to clear each of the wiper arm stands. I have searched this rubber for the fixed split windshield for about 2 years and have several friends looking also and I believe they are not re-producing this part.