Biarritz

Are there any tips to removing the electrical connectors to the hydraulic assembly? Due to age, the connectors are not very pliable and seem somewhat hardened. I'm concerned about breakage. A lot of the connectors are further secured by a metal clip (each different) and its not obvious how to release it so that it can be unplugged w/o damage. Some connections are barely visible -- Do those get unplugged "after" the assembly is unbolted from mounting nuts so you have access? Per the shop manual, it identified the main valve connector and pump/motor connector as ones with spring clip. Where exactly does the clip get pressed? For the main hydraulic assembly (figure 11), the manual states to "just pull to unplug", but I can see a metal restraining clip on the connector body (harness side). How is it really removed? As for the pressure switch it does have a "interlocking edges" molded into the connector body on both sides (hydraulic assembly side of connector), so some kind of releasing force needs to be applied so it unlocks/releases. Again, with the connector body on the harness side being so stiff/hard (non-pliable), what's a good way of removal? In general, is there anything that can be applied or sprayed on the connectors to make them more pliable?

Hemi, Thanks for your reply. I did look at the photos you had. I hadn't anticipated removing the steering column. I assumed that was needed to replace the brake pedal swing-arm to convert to non-ABS; but, I wouldnt be replacing the brake pedal swing-arm if putting-in another hydraulic assembly. So I guess I'm asking if removing the steering column is needed for this swap?

My TC is the 4 cyl Turbo II Automatic (I forgot to mention that). I have a complete re-manufactured hydraulic assembly I bought about 2 years ago knowing mine was starting to have issues. Ideally, I wanted to find a local mechanic in the northern VA area to swap it out; but no one here wants to work on cars this old and this uncommon of a model (I've even asked mechanics who do odd-jobs on weekends at their house). Usually I get around that issue by doing the stuff myself -- but the hydraulic assembly is something I'd rather not do myself. Knowing what needs to be removed on the topside would be helpful information too (as well as knowledge of what is still available (to buy) if something breaks and what is not --- around that surrounding area under the hood!) I "may" have access to a lift if one mechanic that I'm talking with now will take on the job (and thats a big "if"). Another related question: The symptom of mine failing is that the brake pedal will drift to the floor slowly when constantly pressed such as at a stop sign, etc. I've been told this NOT the accumulator .... so what is the symptom/differences of an "accumulator failing only" and "hydraulic assembly failure"? Releasing the brake completely and re-applying the brake gives me ability to have average brake again ... until it held down again and pedal will slowly drift to the floor again. I am not sure if this good enough brakes to even drive the car to a shop.

Mine is titled as "1989 EURO". I was told that others were titled that way from other members in TCA. Not sure exactly why though or why the inconsistency.

As one of many having Teves ABS problems, Is there an easy way to gain access to the brake line connections under the hydraulic assembly? The service manual glosses over this step. I was curious if a panel could be easily removed in the wheel well or something? Thanks.

The front bumper rattles (and vibrates) when car is idling. This is a problem I had twice on my TC: - About 10 years ago, this happened and the mechanic replaced the two front absorber assemblies/mounts w/OEM parts. Problem was resolved then. - Now, years later, the problem is back (right side of front bumper rattles and appears slightly loose again). It appears the bumper is loose at the exterior connection to the right absorber by observing through the gap above the headlight (while hood is open). Is there a reason this would loosen or is this a systemic problem with the TC front bumper? Is there a good solution to this problem? Is the TC bumper too heavy for the front OEM absorbers/mounts? Are the absorbers prone to failure or loosening? Thanks in advance to any insight to this re-occurring issue...

I've had quite a bit of feedback on Thermoid actually being a good brand of R9 FI hose. I've tried shortening the hose but still get some collapsing/kinking in tight radii areas. I will try to purchase other brands but dont have a lot of hope. As Hemi pointed-out, the originals were molded hoses and I can't find molded replacements. As an alternate thought/solution: On an old post back in June 2012, user Jim_McNally posted the following picture where he used 2500 PSI double braided stainless hose for the firewall hoses under the hood. The braided hose would solve the kinking and clasping of the aforementioned R9 hose. It looks like he used double clamps on the 5/16" I.D. Hose and single clamps on 1/4" I.D. Hose AND used the clamps right over the braiding. I am not familiar with clamping stainless hose or know what the orange parts are (tape or exposed hose?). Anyone else using stainless braided hose to solve this problem?

Hemi, It does have R9 markings (not visible) and is made by Thermoid (see pic in this reply). As you say, possibly Thermoid is not a good manufacturer to use! I figured that R9 was a standard spec..... If OEM is molded hose, wouldnt all manufacturer's replacement hose have issues? What is commonly used to replace these hoses and does it survive the 180 degree bend? Is there molded replacement hose available? Thanks!

I am replacing all my original OEM fuel hoses on my TC. I am using SAE30R9 Fuel Injection Hose and used replacement length the same as OEM. Thought it would be an easy job. I've encountered a problem in 2 places where there are tight radii on the TC: At the fuel filter and by the injector rail. At the fuel filter, the hose flattens and is almost collapsed when making the 180 degree bend. See picture of old and new. At the injector rail (by engine), the "S" curved hose will kink at the tightest radius nearest to the firewall. See picture of old and new. Is there a special pre-formed hose needed for the 5/16" hose replacement? Will standard 5/16" R9 hose not work? How is possible to solve this? Thanks in advance for suggestions or any insight of what to do next.

Hemi, Thanks for the reply. Our measurements are consistent for the Empty reading, but your resistance on the FG64A doesnt sound right either for 1/2 and full. Do you have any readings from a known-good Mopar unit or know what the range should be? I thought it was supposed to be around 100ohms (Empty) and about 10 ohms (Full) and should be linear between. I can't find any hard data on it though. The rheostat on the mopar unit mechanically operates smoothly but is also cheap plastic (nothing is sealed very well at all). After looking closely at these, I'm surprised they work reliably at all on functional units. Since we both got questionable resistance readings on new units, could the rheostat possibly need the gas to keep its contacts clean? If true, I don;t know how to tell if you got a functional unit before you install it.

I'm looking to replace my sending unit in my T2's fuel tank because the original one hasnt been reliable. Got a new genuine Mopar 4051663 replacement and thought I'd check resistance on the new unit before installing: Empty = 94 ohm 1/4 = OPEN CIRCUIT 1/2 = OPEN CIRCUIT 3/4 = OPEN CIRCUIT Full = OPEN CIRCUIT This surely doesnt sound right for a new unit. I would expect the resistance to decrease as the lever was raised towards full position. So with that experience using a Mopar part, the only other option looks like Spectra for their aftermarket one. Anyone have any experience with the Spectra FG64A? Or other suggestions for a sending unit?