Wooly15
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Posts posted by Wooly15
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To replace the lower bushing, the manual states to use a 2x4 to pry the arms apart to get the bushings in and out. I'm afraid I'm going to bend the arm if I pry any harder. I trust the manual, but has anyone else ever done this (without damage)?
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Should there be any? Just took apart the front end and there were none on the top or bottom. I figured there should be; they had just rotted away. My parts search turned up results all
over the place. And good sources if there are?
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Wife: why does it smell like gas in the backyard?
Me: Huh...dunno...that's weird. Must be the neighbors.
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Gotcha. Well, time to find someone that knows how to do it. I still don't trust myself .
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i extended the rod to almost the full extension of the accelerator pump and still the stumble. I also need to retract my prior post; it does do it at idle while opening the throttle at the carb.
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Do you think a quick fix of a larger accelerator pump would remedy things?
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I still haven't corrected this issue, but I wanted to share another observation I made today. While trying to quiet my ever returning throttle squeak, I played with the throttle at the carb while it was running. I noticed that if I open the throttle at the carb, with the car in neutral, there is no hesitation. It's only while in drive.
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I'm in having iffy steering and this is one of the first things on my list to try. God knows when the last time it had one.
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I will take my manual with me the next time. I always thought there was a big difference in the specs between the two tire types.
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I just switched from bias ply to radials on my 56 super and I'm looking for alignment specs. The manual has them for bias ply and the two shops I went to could only call up back to around 1966. My search didn't turn up anything definitive. Does anyone have the specs handy?
thanks in advance,
Adam
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I bought them brand new this past summer. I will try and look for a date code tomorrow. H78-15 is approximately 225-75R17's and L78-15's are closer to 235's. About an inch difference I'd think. My 56 had 235's on it when I got it and the rubbed the inner fender because they were radials and they were wider than bias plys.
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Looking to sell my Coker Classic wide whitewall size H78-15 bias plys. They have less than 200 miles on them. I swapped them out for radials so I could feel more comfortable with the wife driving. I know it's a shot in the dark, but I'd prefer to keep it local to the Virgina area. Shipping would be a PIA. $500
thanks
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4 hours ago, old-tank said:
You might need new springs, but they will have little effect (good or bad) on your wanderer.
Things like old car technology, bad tires, worn suspension and steering components and front end alignment issues are more likely to cause wander.
I'm slowly replacing the front end. So far new tires, sway bar bushings and an alignment( which I don't trust was done right.) he couldn't find the specs and winged it I think. When funds allow, ill do everything else
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Mine are the big screw in type and there are two per spring. I'm tempted to pull them to see if my handling improves. I know there's probably more to that issue than just spacers, but I'm starting with the cheap/easy things first. (Bit of a wanderer, she is)
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Someone along the line added spacers to my 56's front springs and I have always been told these negatively affect handling and ride quality. On the other hand, I'm afraid to remove them and have the car sag too much. Any thoughts or experiences?
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Found and installed a new cable and now I think I know why the old one was disconnected. Any idea what's causing this?:
Was traveling around 20mph.
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Update: I bit the bullet and pulled the dash and pulled the cable. I'm going to one of the local parts stores to find one that's longer. Most GM cables seem to be the same thread pattern for a lot of years. Fingers Crossed!
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Finally got around to installing the cable I got from Summit. I installed it on the speedo and routed it through the side of those the firewall and forgot all about it. Stupidly, I forgot to check the length and reinstalled the dash, trim and all! Because I did that, Murphy visited and the cable was about 3" too short no matter how I route it. My first question...do you guys have a good source for a speedometer cable? Secondly, is there ANY way humanly possible to unscrew the cable from the speedo without pulling the dash? If not, I'm tempted to drill another hole so it will reach. @#$!%#!!!!!!!!
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Buford, where did you get your cable? Not five minutes ago I found out that the one I ordered from summit is 3" too short.
I forgot to check before reinstalling the dash!!
Got everything back together and saw the transmission end lying under the car. Slightly pissed at myself right now. I'm not looking forward to pulling the dash again.
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23 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:
you'll need a dozen TS57's for everything, including the turn signal indicators. A TS53 for the highbright indicator.
Got it! You guys are awesome. Thanks!
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I just drove an hour to buy bulbs for my 56's dash/instrument cluster and forgot to bring my notes!! Can anyone quickly tell me what type and how many bulbs I need?? I know there are maybe 7 but I don't know the type. Thanks in advance!
Adam
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Ok, thanks! What about lube? I know there's usually grease in cables and the new one is dry.
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Im in the process of replacing my speedometer cable. The original one had completely broken off and was just flopping around inside the dash. I have the speedometer assembly out, and need to know if there are any additional steps I need to do to install this other than screwing in on. Should I apply grease inside the cable? Should I clean out the attachment point on the speedometer itself? Also, can I test to make sure it works with a low speed drill at the transmission end before reinstalling the dash? Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated. Picture still will not upload for me but I will keep trying.
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1 hour ago, EmTee said:
I'm still curious why some, like John, did not experience the off-idle hesitation issue until after they rebuilt their carb. In John's case it sounds like there was a pre-existing float issue which may have caused an over-rich condition that may explain things. Seems like there must have been similar pre-existing conditions in other cases. The rebuild fixes the over-rich condition, leaving the mixture too lean for today's gasoline formulation?
In my case, the hesitation was present before and after. It was the main reason I rebuilt it, well, "refreshed" it.
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Got everything back together and saw the transmission end lying under the car. Slightly pissed at myself right now. I'm not looking forward to pulling the dash again.
56 lower control arm bushing.
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Thanks guys! Just needed a little pep talk before I showed this thing who's boss!
now to make sure I eat my Wheaties in the morning.