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bgl

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Posts posted by bgl

  1. This car is not from the rust belt.  Just got here a couple of years ago.  I think it started life in Pennsylvania, then to Texas, then to Mississippi, then to Minnesota if I have it figured correctly.  It's a clean car.  Still might need something, but rust isn't the problem.  Thanks!

     

  2. Hello

     

    Does anyone else's Reatta feel like when you want to turn, that the car wants to go straight.  I know it does want to go straight, but I mean that the feel is a bit more than normal to turn.  Is this a trait of the car, or possibly some type of mechanical issue?

     

    Thanks!

  3. Hello

     

    I bought my Reatta last year.  It did not have a front license plate bracket.  Got pulled over by local PD.  So, went on a search for one.  I found one recently on ebay. 

     

    Now, I am trying to figure out how to install it.

     

    I am not sure how those feet are supposed to fit anywhere. 

     

    *If I place the feet below the front valance, as if to mount from below, the top comes up to the upper part of the center grille--and top cannot be mounted...unless wired. 

    *If I place the top on trop of the trim, it does not fit flat, and the feet line up with nothing.

    *If I place the top just below the trim piece, which seems to work out the best, it may fit, but I don't see how the feet will line up again.

     

    I thought this would be simple.  Can anyone point out where the top of the bracket should be?  It looks like in pictures that folks have mounted them in different locations. 

     

    Thanks for any help!

     

    Bruce

     

     

    s-l1600.jpg

    s-l1601.jpg

    s-l1602.jpg

  4. Hello--There is a book on ebay, called something like Reatta Colors.  It apparently provides stats on how many models were available by color and perhaps gives other details.  The cost is $22.73 if interested.  I am kind of interested in getting one. 

  5. Hello

     

    For the sake of anyone else who may someday experience this difficult situation, my car developed a stall problem overnight--actually after having the oil changed on June 20.  There were no warning signs, nothing.  After paying for the oil change, I went out, and car would not run.  Did something happen in the shop? 

     

    It took nearly 4 months and a total of 3 shops to resolve it.  Initial diagnostics were not exact as non-defective parts were replaced such as the air idle control motor, ignition control module, and crankshaft position sensor.  After that, at the last shop, the screening involved intensive testing over several days.  It was found that there were no bad cables or connections and no bad air flow sensor.  And, the already replaced items appeared ok and could be ruled out. 

     

    Apparently moving up the electrical feed line, it turned out to be the ECM.  Replaced the ECM.  Problem solved. 

     

    Well, not so fast.  Car was ready to go and all of a sudden, when I came to pick it up, error codes came up.  Upon more testing, the new (remanufactured) ECM was defective.  Had to get another, replace, and test again.  It is now home in my garage.  Almost scared to drive it.  What next?   

     

    Not sure how much this will all cost, but it was plenty and I don't even have the bill from the last shop yet.  It's a small concern compared to a stalling car though.   

     

    This may not be of much help, as many things can cause stalls.  But, if it helps one person, it is worth writing about. 

     

    Bye! 

  6. Hello

     

    Thanks for your concern.  To review this entire unfortunate situation, here goes:

     

    On June 20, took car in for oil change.  Everything was fine up to this point.  Came out, and car was stalling.  Left it at the dealership.  They replaced air idle control motor.  Worked for a day, then began stalling again.

     

    On August 5, a different repair shop replaced the ICM.  When I got there to pick it up, it stalled 3 times in the parking lot. 

     

    On August 22, "service engine" light came on. 

     

    On August 23, had appointment to replace CPS.  No effect on stalling, but it was my decision to try that remedy.  The light was on due to the cam interrupter falling out. 

     

    Finally, a friend advised me of a guy who was really great at fixing stuff.  Thought I would give it a try.  The problem was getting it there. 

     

    On September 30, took the car to the recommended shop.  After that, many things were tested, such as battery cables/connections, mass air flow sensor and more.  He found two mouse nests, so checked for chewed wires.  On October 6, he replaced the ECM and the stalling quit.  He ran it again the next day, and no stalling.  So, it is believed the problem of stalling is resolved and the fix was to replace the ECM.  Next week, he will install the cam interrupter. 

     

    Not sure how much all this costs, but I had over $800 into before bringing it to this last shop.  If it turns out it is fixed, I can move past the expense.  I was beginning to lose hope that anyone would ever figure it out. 

     

    Thanks for your support and recommendations!! 

     

    Bye

     

    Bruce

  7. Thanks.  All of your input is appreciated and will passed on to the next shop. 

     

    I can't help but think something happened during the oil change.  The car ran perfect going in, and has not run well since, except for brief intervals.  Stalling is always an outcome.  As was suggested, a wiring harness may have been damaged. 

  8. Thanks very much for responses.

     

    Forgot to mention: 

     

    8-28-16:  Service engine light came on.  Dealership determined cam sensor interrupter (magnet) is gone.  It is a $10 part, but tons of labor.  It is not thought that this has any role in the stalling issue. 

     

    It is a 1990 car.

     

    What is strange, car runs fine up to oil change, and since, nothing but problems.  In approximately 15 minutes, this car went from great to awful. 

  9. Hello--

     

    Here is a timeline of events in an effort to resolve the stalling issue on my Reatta:

     

    6-20-16:  Take car in for oil change.  Up to this point, car has never stalled.  After paying for the oil change, I go to start the car, and it stalls.  Does not start.  Got service rep out, and car started.  Got onto road outside of dealership, and it stalls.  Got it started and back to the dealership, and it stalled again.  Left it there for examination.

     

    6-22-16:  Dealership replaced idle air control motor.  Runs good that day.  Next day, stalling continues.

     

    8-5-16:   Take car to independent repair shop.  Replaced ignition control module.  Went to pick up car, and it stalled twice on repair shop's cement apron.  Got it home in spite of stalling.

     

    8-29-16:  Take car to dealership again.  I had studied up on stalling causes and was convinced it was the crankshaft position sensor.  They replaced it.  Stalled in the shop. 

     

    The last time I tried to put gas into, I believe it stalled about 50-60 times on the 4 mile trip.   

     

    Have an appointment with another independent shop.  He thinks he can get it.  Let's hope.  Not having fun with my newly purchased Reatta. 

     

     

  10. Hello

     

    Well, I have not taken the Reatta to the shop yet.  Hoping to find some clues as to why it stalls.  Here are some more clues:

     

    1) It almost always stalls in the first 10 minutes or so of driving.  It rarely stalls after that. 

    2) As it stalls, all the gauges go blank.  Just like a switch got turned off. 

     

    Do these symptoms signal a problem that anyone can identify?

     

    Thanks! 

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