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telriv

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Posts posted by telriv

  1. Go with the '65 GS Riv. exhaust.

    Goes from 2" to 2 1/4" & the exhaust pipes follow the frame instead of having an "S" bend.

    Flows better with no downsides.

    Stainless has the problem of expanding & contracting more so use band type clamps.

    Once things have settled in after some time of driving, months, then you can finish tightening them.

    Just my thoughts.

     

    Tom T.

    • Like 1
  2. Stock, originally, it was composed of 5 separate pieces.

    The part that screwed into the back of the carb. which was a 3/8ths. pipe thread.

    A fitting that screwed into this part with a hose for the 3/8ths.PCV valve hose.

    A Brass fitting that the power booster line screwed into.

    And from there the hose to the power booster.

    I should have ALL the original parts except  for the steel line to the booster???

    A clip that held the steel line to the valve cover bolt.

    Will have to look/search IF interested.

     

    Tom T.

     

  3. I worked with Clarks for awhile tying to get the package tray correct.

    Took a few times BUT we got it, two years plus.

    You get what you pay for.

    They is no other that fits correctly.

     

    Tom T.

     

    • Thanks 1
  4. I'm the one who supply's the "Mini" starters.

    $409.00 + shipping in a Large Flat Rate box of $27.75

    Personnel check, money order, or bank check.

    Made out to myself & mailed to:

    Tom Telesco

    12 Cook St.

    Norwalk, Ct. 06853-1601

     

    Tom T.

    • Like 1
  5. On EVERY carb. I rebuild they ALL go through a process.

    Reason many of my re-builds seem to be costly.

    Re-bushed throttle shafts IF NEC.

    In MANY cases only the primary shafts need to be re-bushed.

    Seldom the secondary's, BUT sometimes also.

    Seized up  throttle shafts, etc.

    Rusted linkage beyond recognition.

    Water intrusion corroding internally.

    EVERYONE is installed on a running/driving '64 Riv. I have & use for this process.

    DON'T need a problem with an overseas carb. as shipping back & forth can get to be quite costly.

    Ask those I've done rebuilds for & ask them/those questions & whether satisfied or not & their impressions.

     

    Tom T.

  6. Even when new IF they sat for awhile, a week or more, you would have to crank them for awhile. 

    Way back when they were a newer car & more than likely a daily driver so you didn't run into these problems.

    AGAIN,  I would rather crank it over for awhile to get oil flowing RATHER than a dry start.

    Todays fuel with alcohol evaporates even faster with the normal heat of the engine.

     

    Tom T.

  7. Even when new IF they sat for awhile, a week or more, you would have to crank them for awhile. 

    Way back when they were a newer car & more than likely a daily driver so you didn't run into these problems.

    AGAIN,  I would rather crank it over for awhile to get oil flowing RATHER than a dry start.

    Todays fuel with alcohol evaporates even faster with the normal heat of the engine.

    The cure install an electric fuel pump or fuel injection.

    Now we're back to the dry start situation.

    Which would you rather have???

     

    Tom T.

    • Like 1
  8. NO, AND it is NOT replaceable as far as I know.

    The tube has some kind of restriction inside of it to slow down the flow of hot air or else the incoming air would not be hot enough to heat up the choke coil.

    One reason some replace the hot air choke coil with an electrically operated choke coil.

    IF the system is working correctly, is, you will feel vacuum at the source where the rubber hose connects to the top of the carb. IF everything is sealed correctly.

     

    Tom T.

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  9. On my '64 I bought new the number on the engine & the top of the cowl should match to be a numbers matching vehicle/car/engine. 

    Example: the engine number stamped on the block in front of the valley pan, in my case, 7K1076554 is the same as on the cowl.

    Again: 7K1076554

    Which also has the engine code of KW which relates to a '64 with a 425 4bbl engine.

    Hope this helps.

     

    Tom T.

  10. Or buy one of my bolt-in NEW Mini Starters for your Nail.

    Problems now solved once & forever.

    May even cost less than having yours professionally built to high torque specs.

     

     

    Tom T.

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