Kenendcindyc
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Posts posted by Kenendcindyc
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Sorry for the poor pictures and the dirt. I think they may have changed the design, mine has brass straps around drums attached to the levers. These straps allow you to set the tension on the levers so they stay where you set them. Yours appears to do the same thing using a spring and discs. Not sure but that is what it looks like.
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I got a late 28 std six. I’m at work right now, but I’ll get you some pics tonight. It does look like your missing some stuff just going off my memory.
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If you can’t find the tapered roller bearings two 6203 sealed ball bearings drop right in with no modifications
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There called Mechanics U joints. They are filled with oil. You turn the joint till one plug is high and one is low. Fill with gear oil threw the lower plug till it comes out the top one. Pump it in with a pistol grip oil can.
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In my experience with my 28 dodge ,if the Great people at Myers early dodge parts doesn’t have what you need ,and the Great people of this forum don’t have any to spare. Check EBay and swap meets otherwise start figuring out how to make what you need. Not much else to choose from.
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I have a 28 std six, I can supply pictures of areas of concern if you need them.
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That is one beautiful car. Great job.
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In drive ,at a stop everything inside the trans also comes to a stop except the pump (spins whenever the engine is on in drive or neutral) the torque converter is spinning ( turbine inside converter connected to input shaft is stoped.) only thing between the two is fluid = no wear. When shifted to neutral a clutch releases allowing the input shaft to rotate ,reengaging drive causes a clutch to reengage to stop the turbine. This causes some ( very little) wear to the clutch. I’d say most wear will happen to the linkage due to excessive shifting.
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I work on modern cars and rebuild automatic transmissions for a living. I’d say your probably putting more wear on your trans shifting it into neutral at stops than just leaving it in drive. As far as overheating when at idle a modern car should be able to idle all day without overheating. I’d also say idling causes no harm unless done excessively as in for hours at a time over many years. We service some police cars that they run for three shifts a day, running and idling for 24 hours a day 7 days a week and we only see some engine wear after YEARS of this type of service.
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No doubt ,without all the pictures and posting they should easily be done by Friday.
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Ya, too quiet. There definitely up to something 😬.
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Looking good, Matt
hay just a unrelated question, are you able to engage that overdrive in second gear to split that gear and achieve second gear overdrive? Or is there a minimum engagement speed.
Thanks-
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Agreed, truly amazing
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14 minutes ago, idrjoe_sandiego said:
To Ply33:
Not to belabor this point, and I am not disagreeing with your information, but at least in the 1929 Dodge headlamp system, which most definitely is a High Beam/Lo Beam setup, how does one get the bulb to operate properly without indexed pins? Do you just guess which way to insert the bulb?
Yup you just guess and try them. If one is low and one is high just turn the bulb that is wrong 180 degrees and reinstall to correct.
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Yup it can happen, I had a small 12 HP engine I was using daily and it ran great. One day the wife took a gas can to get some gas and she took the wrong one. The one she took had a little very old gas in it that turned to a solid varnish at the bottom. The new gas kinda dissolved it and it mixed with the new gas. When running I could smell the old varnish, I didn’t think much of it but after turning it off and letting it cool it was seized up solid. I was able to get it turning with some solvent in the cylinder and a big ratchet. Once free it ran fine but seized again after cooling. Flushed out fuel system and ran it a few hours and all was fine after that.
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2 hours ago, Minibago said:
I have to say despite the required elbow grease, polished alloy really sets an engine off.
I agree, I’m leaning in that direction since most think it’s better than brushed.
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11 hours ago, Mattml430 said:
I agree definitely easier to keep the polished alloy clean although alloy no matter what you do deteriorates over time. At least it would be easier to freshen up each year if it’s polished.
Is painting it the same as the block an option.Ahhhhhh I don’t really think I want to paint it. But check back in a few years after I try polishing it. 😀 haha my opinion might change.
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Hay guys ,when I made my high compression aluminum cylinder head for my std six three years ago I left it in a brushed aluminum finish. It has proven to be tough to keep looking good ,as even wiping it with a rag in the wrong direction causes marks. Now I’m not really that picky ( I’ve never seen a dirt road I won’t drive) but ,I’m going to do some engine detailing this winter and thinking of polishing the head.
do you guys think that will be easier to keep clean or worse hmmmmm
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The main shaft is held in with a pressed on retainer on the cable drive end. That along with mine being frozen in the housing, there was no way I was going to press it apart without breaking the housing. That’s why i opted to try and free it in place.
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Mine was in about the same shape and it also had a frozen main shaft. I think as the pot metal expands it starts to squeeze the shaft. I freed mine up by carefully warming up the pot metal using a heat gun, slowly it started to move. I fed some light oil mixed with timesaver lapping compound into the oil wick hole while slowly spinning it with a adapter I made and a drill. After a few hours of this she was good as new. A good cleaning and lube and she has been working good for years now.
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46 minutes ago, idrjoe_sandiego said:
Kenendcindyc:
Nice forensic axle rundown. It makes sense that it happens over some time and would tend to explain why my axle broke without a sound.
Ya that’s why they usually break “gently “ the amount of torque required to snap a axle that size due to sheer torque is huge. Like a drag car snapping a axle at the starting line it’s violent. When they just snap gently for no reason you can be sure the crack is slowly propagating threw the shaft for quite some time before the shaft just can’t handle normal torque and snaps.
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Can’t believe you bought a new one? I’ve seen you fix worse. 😀
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I believe the end of the odometer drum is keyed to the pot metal frame and prevents it from rotating as a whole. Mine did that years ago. I can’t remember if I made some shims to move the drum over towards the key ( pot metal frame was expanding causing looseness) or if it was adjustable.
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Probably a good idea to pull the axles during the off season. (They come out real easy) and inspect them with dye penetrant crack detector if you want to catch it early on in the process of failing. Pay close attention to the keyway area also.
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Loose fitting water pump bearing races
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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I’ve rebuilt a few and they were all a slip fit. There are shims between the casting and the four bolt cover to set endplay. I’ve converted mine to sealed ball bearings.