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Kenendcindyc

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Everything posted by Kenendcindyc

  1. Ahhhhhh so some are not pinned good to know. Thanks
  2. Hay Matt, I was just looking at some of the pics from this topic. I’ve noticed in the pic with your beautifully smooth and painted engine block that the main bearing cap studs appear to have been removed. How did you get them to unscrew from the block? Mine appear to be pined in to prevent them from turning?
  3. Oh good, glad we caught that. They work really poorly when the wrong one is installed. Nice job on that switch. But I would have put the penny in the other way around 😀. Just kidding. Haha
  4. Ahhhhh Matt, I hate to say it but,I didn’t notice it till I saw the box but I’m 90% sure you need a right hand spring.
  5. Thanks Matt, could you measure the width and thickness of the actual steel they used to make the spring.
  6. Mat, once again that starter looks great. If I may ask ,Do you happen to have a picture of your bendix spring? Ever since I’ve had my 28 the starter seems to have a harsh “clunk” when engaging. It might be perfectly normal but seems a bit harsh. It appears they made different strength springs and I’m thinking if I have one that’s weak it could cause this? Thanks
  7. Mat, the pump looks great. It’s hard to tell from your pictures but there appears to be a large gap between the impeller and the pump body, this will greatly reduce pump efficiency. I try to achieve about .040 clearance.
  8. Just so you guys know ,on the pumps with the obsolete taper roller bearings a pair of 6203 ball bearings will drop in with no modifications and work great.
  9. Sorry I doubled up that first paragraph, I thought I was editing the first post but clicked the wrong box.
  10. The specs as seen above are .005” but remember that is on a hot engine. I’d set them around .008 -.010” on a cold engine. They may be a little noisy at that setting but it should start and run fine, then reset them when you get it running and hot. If you did set them to .005” it should still start and run fine, just remember when it gets hot the valve stems do expand enough to close up that gap. It will idle really rough and be low on power as the valves will not be able to fully seat.
  11. The specs as seen above are .005” but remember that is on a hot engine. I’d set them around .008 -.010” on a cold engine. They may be a little noisy at that setting but it should start and run fine, then reset them when you get it running and hot.
  12. I’m interested in the 28 exhaust manifold. What are you looking to get. Thanks, Ken
  13. Ya something does not seem right, my 28 with 4.45 gears will cruse 55 all day with sprints to 65. Even at 65 I’m only using about half throttle on flat ground but limit my rpm to 3500. At 55 mph it’s turning 2800 and has great power and seems very happy. With your 4.11 gears 55-60 should be easy for a 37.
  14. I’m also unsure if you noticed that on that valve the cap unscrews from the valve and locknut. The cap exposes a large slot that allows the valve to be screwed tightly against the bore, creating a good seal . Then the copper washer ,locknut and the cap. If not tightened against the bore they will leak internally and provide no dampening. You may have realized this but I figured I’d mention it.
  15. Actually I can’t tell from your pictures but are you missing the piston return spring?
  16. Hello Mikec5 My 28 std six has those same shocks. Mine were the same and I don’t believe you are missing any parts. The pressurized oil from the piston enters the valve threw the center portion of that valve and forces the two spring washers apart this controls how stiff the dampening is. I believe back in the day there were different valves available to change how Much dampening they provided. I’ve experimented with different thickness oil to change the dampening since the valves are not available , this has worked well. I find it interesting that one of your pistons has a larger bleed
  17. There are two bushings in that distributor housing a upper and lower. They should fit to the shaft with .0005” to .001” clearance. You need them fit correctly otherwise the shaft will wobble around and point gap and timing will be erratic. The tricky part is fitting both of them to the correct clearance and perfectly in line with each other. Once you get new bushings installed I’d recommend finding a machine shop with a Sunnen hone and mandrel that spans both bushings. They can hone both at the same time to the clearance required ,insuring there perfectly in line.
  18. Man, that’s fantastic! I would love to find a spare engine to build and experiment with. I’ve been checking swap meets around here in NH and I think other than a carburetor I’ve come up with nothing.
  19. Thanks again ,Tom. Pump arrived a few days ago. Thank you ,it was a pleasure doing business with you.
  20. Thanks Tom that would be great! I don’t mind if it’s a total basket case atleast it gives me something to start with.
  21. There is no other seal that I’m aware of. I’ve never seen a engine with one and the parts book does not list one. Possibly excessive main bearing clearance causing excessive flow threw the bearing, overwhelming the drain tube ? Crankcase breather plugged? Excessive blow buy pressurizing the crankcase? Just a few things that could cause leakage at that location. I can’t cay mine is perfectly dry back there but it does not drip, the design does not work perfect under all conditions but it does work well enough to be acceptable in 1928. 😀
  22. Yes those three holes are on the outside of the felt seal. The felt seal prevents oil pan oil from pouring out when going up a steep hill and the three holes allow oil that just went threw the rear bearing to drain into the trough then threw the tube back into the pan.
  23. Also there is no rear main seal as we know it. Just a felt seal that seals on the rear main cap and the slinger on the crankshaft that slings the oil into that trough in the pan.
  24. This is a picture of my 28 std six engine but I believe it’s the same plate.
  25. Richard I just found this thread, absolutely fantastic work.
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