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Everything posted by Kenendcindyc

  1. I agree, I’m leaning in that direction since most think it’s better than brushed.
  2. Ahhhhhh I don’t really think I want to paint it. But check back in a few years after I try polishing it. 😀 haha my opinion might change.
  3. Hay guys ,when I made my high compression aluminum cylinder head for my std six three years ago I left it in a brushed aluminum finish. It has proven to be tough to keep looking good ,as even wiping it with a rag in the wrong direction causes marks. Now I’m not really that picky ( I’ve never seen a dirt road I won’t drive) but ,I’m going to do some engine detailing this winter and thinking of polishing the head. do you guys think that will be easier to keep clean or worse hmmmmm
  4. The main shaft is held in with a pressed on retainer on the cable drive end. That along with mine being frozen in the housing, there was no way I was going to press it apart without breaking the housing. That’s why i opted to try and free it in place.
  5. Mine was in about the same shape and it also had a frozen main shaft. I think as the pot metal expands it starts to squeeze the shaft. I freed mine up by carefully warming up the pot metal using a heat gun, slowly it started to move. I fed some light oil mixed with timesaver lapping compound into the oil wick hole while slowly spinning it with a adapter I made and a drill. After a few hours of this she was good as new. A good cleaning and lube and she has been working good for years now.
  6. Ya that’s why they usually break “gently “ the amount of torque required to snap a axle that size due to sheer torque is huge. Like a drag car snapping a axle at the starting line it’s violent. When they just snap gently for no reason you can be sure the crack is slowly propagating threw the shaft for quite some time before the shaft just can’t handle normal torque and snaps.
  7. Can’t believe you bought a new one? I’ve seen you fix worse. 😀
  8. I believe the end of the odometer drum is keyed to the pot metal frame and prevents it from rotating as a whole. Mine did that years ago. I can’t remember if I made some shims to move the drum over towards the key ( pot metal frame was expanding causing looseness) or if it was adjustable.
  9. Probably a good idea to pull the axles during the off season. (They come out real easy) and inspect them with dye penetrant crack detector if you want to catch it early on in the process of failing. Pay close attention to the keyway area also.
  10. If you look carefully at the picture you can see the progress of the break slowly cracking bigger and bigger over time till that last portion couldn’t take the torque any longer and finely snapped. The moon shaped piece is we’re it was slowly cracking probably started at what appears to be a inclusion in the steel. Until the last round bit snapped.
  11. Yup there is a knurled brass plug that presses into the back that holds it in.
  12. Looking real good, I’m sure you can’t wait to fire it up.
  13. I know I was sad when you were nearing completion, it was fantastic just following along on the forum from halfway around the world. But by no means did I want to see it continue like this 😟. If anyone has the persistence to fix it once again it’s you. Wish I could help, but I guess I’ll just watch from here. Not sure how you didn’t kill the lady that hit you. So glad you and the wife are ok.
  14. What was the outside temp during your drive. On my std six with a 160 degree thermostat driving about 40-45 if the ambient temp is 70 or below it will run 160. If ambient is in the 80s I’ll run about 180 at the same speed and in the 90s it will run in the 190s. Mine is a round tube radiator though.
  15. Hmmmm strange place to break, typically that’s not a highly stressed location. I’d agree maybe fractured from the impact you mentioned.
  16. Hay Matt your Victory turned out absolutely beautiful, few would believe it’s the same car. You should be very proud. I’m still kinda curious what broke in the rear axle on the sedan. Any updates 😀 you’ve had plenty of time to look at it 😬(joking) . Thanks, and once again fabulous job on the Victory and thanks for posting your progress.
  17. I truly agree ,your abilities are amazing. Nicely done.
  18. I’ve had Chevrolet and Ford axles of this vintage break, but so far not the dodge😀. When you get a chance I would love to see some pictures of where it broke. And that Victory looks great congratulations.
  19. I know it might sound impossible but I check and adjust mine hot with the engine idling. It’s not as hard as it would seem.
  20. It looks great, but I’m kinda sad to see it allmost finished, it’s been great to watch your progress. Thank you for posting as much as you did, it’s been great.
  21. Thanks for the update, if you don’t mind me asking what are you running for a carb. I can just barely make out a brass carb in the picture but it doesn’t look like the Detroit lubricator Stewart.
  22. Valve clearance is .005” on a hot engine. I recommend running slightly more on the exhaust valves.
  23. Nicely done, you don’t happen to have the number or size of the seals you used handy. I plan on resealing mine this winter and it would be nice to get the seals ahead of time. Thanks
  24. That manifold looks great. Do you know anyone else who has done that and can report how it runs and if there is any disadvantages. I’ve been thinking of doing something similar.
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