ChrisWhewell
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Posts posted by ChrisWhewell
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96 LT4 vette is good, the epitome of reverse-cooling production motors. Meantime, I'm going off on a limb here...... anybody ever see a Reatta with a Diesel in it ?
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Trademark Infringement !! Probably some un-creative real estate developer was boggling their mind over what to call their new neighborhood they created from what used to be a cotton field, and just in the nick of time, I pulled out in front of them after gassing up my 90. The rest is history.... Everybody in that neighborhood should receive a postcard, congratulating them that their community was named after my car. hahaha What's next ?? Toronado Estates ? Riviera Terrace ? Skylark Mountain sounds mysterious.... :)
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I'll get to it after october I guess, have other vehicles and if the Reatta is retarded (ign timing), I can deal with it. I suspect most of us have experience dealing with things other than ignition systems which are retarded :) Maybe someday I'll be able to appreciate the full acceleration potential of the LN3, its a bucket list thing at this point.
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According to FSM, I need to check if the mem-cal is properly installed. How about, if the mem-cal is NOT properly installed, what other systems might I expect to see erratic or faults with ? Thinking, if I'm going to go digging the ECM out, I might as well put a new mem-cal in while I'm down there. Golly, where does one get a new mem-cal ?
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Good for you !! It sounds like a success. quick question, did your computer indicate a code 043 ? Mine didn't, and I think it should have.
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Yeah, I hate going under jacked-up cars, I put mine on a jack stand for this job on passenger side only, but also kept the floor jack snug on the body, in case for some reason the chinese steel in the jack stand decides to take a permanent vacation. Once you know where the sensor is at, you can later feel your hand down there when the vehicle is on the ground. My next step will be to locate the YD9 terminal on the ECM, and check the continuity in the wire between YD9 and the connector of the knock sensor. With luck, there's an open or short in that wire. Otherwise, I need to find a replacement ECM. Hey AZVet, did you have good luck after you put in the new Knock Sensor ?
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not exactly the smartest connector, in my opinion. Has a male rod that goes into a hole in the knock sensor, but looks like mr. male rod of the connector might not have the girth fo make good contact with internal walls of female hole on knock sensor. Ugh. maybe I can get a piece of copper foil in there
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Correction. With Ign On, I now read 4.9v at the knock sensor connector. Problem was, one of my voltmeter wires has an open in it, discovered that when replacing a rechargeable battery in another device, couldn't get voltmeter to read 1.5 v on a battery that was brand new. Next in the sequence is to check the connector itself, make sure it is contacting the knock sensor contact. If so, next step is to remove ECM and check memcal to make sure it is properly seated in ECM. If so, then replacement of memcal is the remedy, according to the FSM. Maybe the problem is just the connector if I am "lucky."
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checked FSM, it is CKT 496. First test in flow chart is "ign. on" and then measure for voltage in ckt 496 which is basically disconnect connector from knock sensor and measure from there to ground. My reading was zero volts. Chart next indicates this means either 1) ckt 496 is grounded, 2) ckt 496 is open or 3) ECM is bad. Something also mentioned in FSM about a "pull up resistor" which should be present at the knock sensor terminal, YD9. I can't remember seeing a resistor there when I swapped the ecm last year. its all on page 8D1-54, 55 of my book. but my book is not the full FSM, it is the "New product information" version, but I adjudge it to be accurate.
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Well, here's the fun part..... I disconnect the lead to the knock sensor, fire up the motor, and ED 17 is unaffected, it still reads 9999. So, some open wire somewhere ? but why no code 043 ?? Befuddled.....
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well, I'm in trouble now ! Installed new knock sensor, and ED 17 still reads 9999 at idle. It intermitently drops into 3000 and 5000 range, and for a half a second might read 100. No code 043, so presumably CKT 496 is at its proper voltage btw. 1.5v and 3.5v. ugh, maybe its an ecm snafu
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Thanks ! I'll take you up on that ! Please let me know when is a good time to drop by ....
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This is my most-recent issue. ED 17 reads 9999. I took her for a spin, and it drops to 5400, no help. I check ED 16 and it reads a constant "17". So, it appears I'm running 17 degrees retarded timing. I can't wait to solve this, and see how nicely the car runs.
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You are right 2seater, the integrator was exactly at 128. but, block learn was also 128. What I learned, was that ED17 was reading 9999. Maybe this is part of my problem, it sounds like the computer believes the engine is knocking ?? and has accordingly retarded spark, thereby costing me performance ?? I need to look into maybe replacing the knock sensor , I wonder how hard it is to get to, will check it out. thanks for prompting me to check out the Ec values, much appreciated. Wow won't it be great if I swap the knock sensor for a new one and the car runs like really well ? cross my fingers...
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You're right, injectors totally unrelated to 041. The car was running like cr_ _ yesterday and it finally hit me, to swap the injectors. Meantim, overnight I let the engine cool as usual, and was happy as a kitten when the 041 didn't come back. First guess is the sensor, maybe it didn't like the hot day yesterday and the way I was flooring the gas pedal to make it up hills. I used to smell sulfur like smell after hard acceleration, so I put in a new cat. convertor last year, but it did not help. I'm now pondering whether, if I had a bad injector, lots of unburned residue might be in the comb chamber of the cyl with the previously bad injector. It definitely is running much much better, almost like it really is the difference btw running on 5 vs. 6 cyls. Yeah, the integrator... I used to know how to get into there and read it but its been a while, I forgot. Have to look it up again. But, finally the car is running probably normal how its supposed to. I always thought previously it was a dog.
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Hooray. I pulled the fuel rail and dug out the Multec injectors from my 93 vette and put them into Reatta. Wooo hooo !! Instant smooth idle, better than ever. Also, noticeably more power. And, no code E041, thank gawd, that was scary seeing that yesterday. So here's my theory, I had a bad injector, and the O2 sensor takes an average of 6 cyls. If one injector is not working, that one cylinder is starved and ECM will up fuel delivery signal to other injectors to compensate so that air/fuel ratio is believed by computer to be correct, "on average" Now however, all injectors are working, so probably in addiiton to the slight increase in power I sensed on my trip to the gas station moments ago, I expect fuel economy should increase slightly. The multecs are rated 22 lbs/hr but in reality actually measure 21.6. I think Reatta's stock injectors are only 19 lbs, correct me if I'm wrong. Wow, first time since I bought the car, its running really smooth.
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you guys are great. yeah we love our cars. my heart sank when I saw 041, like my JB weld job failed... but I was glad when the 41 didn't come back, I don't think the loss of a magnet can be intermittent, so I don't need to do the JB job again. I can say, the car ran like crap. I have some old Multec injectors from my 93 vette, think I"ll put them in her. Still not happy with the trans, at certain speeds around 47, she wants overdrive right when I punch it about to go up a hill, she goes into overdrive and I get a bog and have to manually go to 3rd to get some balls. Maybe the multecs will help
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Hurray, I just got a code 041. Had replaced the cam magnet 2 years ago with JB Weld method. I waited a few minutes, now the 041 is gone. so maybe its the sensor, not the magnet ??
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and moreover, the rear end of Reatta, all lit up, looks as "modern" as any modern car. In fact, the rear end look with all the light bulbs, remains to this evening, still ahead of its time. I'm seriously not a weird person, I never gambled or looked at dirty pics after about age 12, no drugs, drink very little, etc. but I must confess, I feel slightly compelled right now to go turn on the lights on the car and just look at the backside of it. i'm surprised no foreign outfit has copied it
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Sometimes in traffic, when I want to look cool, I don't do a burnout (because she won't) but rather, just push the radio on button, and the antenna goes up. I know all others who witness it, are in awe at the sight of it, because, their fancy schmancy car can't do that, but mine can. !!
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I totally love mine, long after I'm buried or vaporized, the body style of Reatta survives in the heart because it appeals to the deepest emotions. I'm sure once you've got the paint on, you'll be pleased. What an awesome car, and what awesome people we have on these forums who can recognize a true Gem. The rest of society is ... like a distributor that's rotated too much clockwise. i.e., retarded :)
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I'm seriously considering it, I've driven supercharged Riv's the past 18 years, a little more guts in the Reatta would be great. But I don't want a lot of down time, I'd need it to be a fairly easy path, plug and play to the maximum amount permissible. Bolt on would be great. I'd pull the Series II and 4t65E out of the Riv and drop it in the Reat if not for computer box, trans control module, etc. I don't want to do extensive mods. If the BS / benefit ratio is too low, I'm out, I don't want to be a pioneer, I'm happy following the footsteps of others on this one. All I'm after is about a 50 ft lb. increase in Tq, and don't want to shatter the stock trans. I had a weak moment seeing that craiglist ad, a fantasy thought I could just bolt on a SC and be done with it. Maybe all I need for my goal is to get some old "pre-series I" heads and rework them and clear the rear manifold of its obstruction. I"m only looking for another 50 ft. lbs.
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Thank YOU Ronnie !
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Question is, will this fit on my '90 , or are there engine block mis-match issues with Series II heads ? I would run low boost, maybe 6-7 psi. thanks !! https://houston.craigslist.org/pts/d/buick-vseries-ii-supercharger/6566162635.html
Looking at a 91 questions
in Buick Reatta
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Find something wrong with it, and get them down 500, shouldn't be hard to do, esp if you pull out a wad of $ 100 bills. I've noticed people seem to react to piles of green paper differently than they do to words. Maybe run the codes in in on-board diagnostics, something is certain to show up in history at least. Alternately, if price is firm, ask for a 90 day warranty on drivetrain, all dealers typically give that as a default anyway