LAS VEGAS DAVE
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Posts posted by LAS VEGAS DAVE
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I was surprised at the mileage too. The overdrive makes a big difference if you are on the flats or downhill but if you are going uphill you will use more gas than if it was not in overdrive. Our car now has over 25000 miles showing.
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You will be there soon at the rate you are going. The good thing is that by driving them they need at the very least periodic maintenance. Oil changes, chassis grease, trans and rear end oil checks and changes, coolant flushes every year. I tend to over maintain but I like working on the car. It seems there is always something I can do. I change the oil every 1000 miles, it has no filter. I pulled the pan when we first got it and cleaned it out like new. I adjusted the valves only once. New plugs every few thousand miles because I just feel like it and like to see how each cylinder is burning. When I got it two cylinders were a little low due to stuck rings. Many applications of SEA FOAM and Marvel Mystery Oil etc and driving it and like magic all cylinders are now even within a couple of pounds. After you finish restoring yours there will still be plenty to do. Your posts have probably been a major factor in getting some others to do work on their cars, they have been the best and most informative posts ever on this forum. KEEP HAVIN FUN.
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My wife and I took our 38 on a 200 mile trip trip today to Alamo Nv from Las Vegas Nv. About 75 miles was pretty much uphill, of course on the way back it was downhill. We averaged 13 miles per gallon. The car used no oil and ran slightly under 180 at all times, even on the uphill. We mostly drove at about 65 mph in overdrive. I took it out of overdrive on the steepest and longest hills trying to be easy on it.
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1 hour ago, Jack Worstell said:
Dave.....it's my buddy that's looking for a good tank. I will see him Thursday and then get back to you if he is interested.
How much do you want for the tank ?
Jack
What is it worth? No rust or dents. I would like to trade it for a 38 tank in good condition.
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I have a nice one but the neck has been changed over to the opposite side to fit a 38. It was a real clean NOT DENTED TANK. IT COULD BE CHANGED BACK. PROBABLY COST A LOT TO SHIP.
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Our car can sit for a week or ten days and start instantly with the modern gas in the winter or spring or fall. If it is driven in 100 degree heat during the summer and then parked for an hour the gas will evaporate a little but still start pretty quickly without the use of the electric pump. If it is parked after driving in 100 degree heat and then parked in the garage during the summer for a week or two I need to use the electric pump to prime it. We drive it regularly and park it and it starts almost instantly when we get back in it. It did not do this until one day I put a fuel regulator on the carb. I had lots of carb problems until I put the regulator on it, since then it's a different car, I really don't know how the regulator made such a difference, but in my case it did.
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GARY, I doubt that the fuel is running out of the carb or that it evaporated in the cold weather. If it continues to give you a problem there is a brass plug on the side of the float bowel that is the correct level for the fuel in the float chamber. You could remove that easily and see if any trickles out. If it does not then I would remove the top 8 screws and lift off the top of the carb and see whats going on. If it is empty there is something wrong. I believe the 38 carb on mine is different from yours. Also I noticed that in 38 the gas filler is under a fender cover so you can't see the filler and it eliminated the rubber grommet in 1938. 1937 and 38 look similar at first but there are differences. The 37 and 38 were my favorite body styles. Your car looks more beautiful each week.
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Possible wrist pin bushing.
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I was lucky that after all the time I spent with the razors and the hacksaw blade the window finally just wiggled out by hand.
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Gary, I think I might replace the fender welting on our car. The original welting is still on the car and the fenders have never been off but the welting is worn badly. I might be able to use the original welting as a pattern, what do you think? Where did you get the welting from? Dave
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Today I towed the heaviest bike I have up hills and around town using all gears. The old Buick tows very well and the total sag was only 2 1/4 inches. The hitch works fine and the car actually rides nicer with the trailer on it than with it off.
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Here is a picture of the finished trailer hitch and tow bar mount combination. The mount bolts to the front bumper and our tow bar pins to it, If its mounted on the rear bumper it becomes our trailer hitch with the addition of the ball bracket shown. Our car drops about 3 1/2 inches with the heaviest bike on the trailer. I am thinking of putting air shocks on or helper air bags inside the rear coils. Not really necessary but I am considering it. It drops about the same with two passengers in the back seat.
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Today was the first test, it works perfect.
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Gary, my car did not come with side view mirrors. They were available from dealers and vendors as accessories but were not generally used in 37 or 38. I would imagine that as traffic got worse and cement roads replaced dirt roads and speeds increased a side view mirror became desirable. Many cars that didn't originally come with side view mirrors were added at a later date and purchased from a dealer or a garage as an accessory. I found mine searching on eBay and it was from the forties. I liked it because the ribs on the mirror matched the trim on my 38. It attaches with the two slotted screws as do most from that era. Its almost a necessity today. I did not feel the need to add one to the other side.
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You are right Ben, he made it all look easy and there is no damage to the car. The shop was in Henderson Nevada which is about 12 miles from us. It was a nice drive and on the way back home it was a pleasure to see out the side view mirror.
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Last night I spent over an hour steadily slicing with my razor knife between the glass and the frame on both sides and the front. I broke many blades but had new ones in stock. Finally I started using hack saw blades between the glass and the frame one side at a time. I even broke a few hack saw blades. The glass seemed like it had a gap all around it but it did not pull out with my hand. This morning I drove to the glass shop. The guy there seemed to just grab the glass with one hand and it came right out! I was amazed but ever so happy. He cut a piece of new laminated clear glass which is slightly thicker than the old one. New glass is .250 and old was .220 thousandths thick. He said no problem as the gasket tape he had comes in different thickness. I asked about the silicone stuff and he said he still does the old cars with the gasket tape. In any case he did it while I waited. He does many classic cars and cuts his own glass, total cost was 120 dollars and I am very happy with the result.
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I took a razor knife and started cutting on each side of the glass. I did it using 3 blades and for about 20 minutes. That stuff is tough. I will do it again and again and see if it ever starts to loosen. Not yet though. Might take 20 or more tries. Do the glass shops have a better way or is this how they do it?
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19 minutes ago, Gary W said:
Dave,
Look at my first photo up top:
You can see the three rivets through the bottom
G
I see them now Gary, thanks for the help.
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THANKS SO MUCH you guys for clearing up the rivet issue for me. Now I am certain the glass can be removed by me or a glass shop without damaging anything. I realize that I did not have to remove the frame unless I wanted to re chrome it. I don't want to take anything apart on the door as nothing has ever been apart and the garnish and upulstrey is in pristine condition. I don't even like replacing the glass but I need to see my mirror as easily as possible so the time has come. I love this site as so many guys chime in with help, this site is a pre war Buicks owners dream. Thanks again to all of you.
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I think the glass can be replaced with out taking anything apart except the little plug has me hesitant.
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8 hours ago, Gary W said:
Hi Dave!
This is what I did to replace my vent windows:
I removed the entire vent window mechanism for re-chroming. You should be able to wrangle the glass out. Mine pulled straight out of the slot.
You won't be removing the entire mechanism, but your glass will come out.
New glass cleaned up.
The re-chromed vent window frames and the glass ready to go in
I used this product called 3M "WINDO - WELD"
Bob and my local glass shop told me no one uses the tape anymore, they all use this stuff (or similar product)
Using a caulk gun, pump it liberally into the frame. You will want to protect your paint for this step. I did this on the workbench so that wasn't an issue.
Begin seating the glass into the urethane-filled frame. BE SURE YOU KOW WHERE THE GLASS IS SUPPOSED TO FINISH...How much overlaps the frame,....etc.
Again, since you will do this on your car, it should line up nicely to the rubber edge of the vent separator.
My glass panes were just even with the edge of the frames, so I let it cure on the edge.
As you slide the glass in, the Window - Weld oozes out. Just leave it.
Let is set for 24 hours.
Use a brand new, sharp blade and trim to the frame edge.
The window-weld peels right off and leaves a beautiful clean line behind.
Here is the finished product.
And now in the metal frames with new rubber and ready to be installed when the doors are painted.
Good Luck!
(My local glass shop said you can use any urethane from Home Depot with the same results.)
Gary
Gary, I notice your window frame does not have the plug or whatever it is in the bottom of the frame like mine. Both my vent frame have the plug or whatever it is.
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Here is another question. On the bottom of the vent widow frame is something the looks like a screw head but it has no slot in it. It looks like it might be something that will prevent the glass from just sliding out. The picture is blurry but you can see the dark dot in the bottom of the windshield frame, does anyone know what that is?
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Isn't it amazing what some people are capable of doing. Supercharges straight 8 Buick motors, wow.
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The win wing glass on the drivers side glass has separated pretty bad so that the glue between the panes is blocking my view of the sideview mirror considerably. I am leery of taking the car to a glass shop and having them replace it. Is there a correct way to remove the glass from the frame? Is it glued into the frame? Can I just slip a new piece in the frame. I hope someone who has done this will reply. The car has all its original glass and I don't need to replace any other piece except the drivers side wind wing.
TODAYS RIDE
in Buick - Pre War
Posted · Edited by LAS VEGAS DAVE (see edit history)
Where r u in Utah. We love Penguitch (how do you spell it) Nice 40 you have and a Century at that.