erichill
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Posts posted by erichill
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Well Maybe I should have done some Googling before posting. Seems like there are several places with a wide variety of bushings and ability to custom make bushings so maybe this wont be a big deal after all.
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I have excessive play in the steering knuckle/king pin on my 1919 Chandler I am working on. I have not dissembled it yet, but wonder where I would look to try to find bushings once I determine the size I need. Never done this before.
Thanks
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I do not own a shop, but I do own my own small business going on 31 years. Part of my business is service (landscaping). As someone else mentioned your boss need to do a couple things. One is figure out his actual over head,a nd what he need to be bringing per man hour to cover all the overhead plus profit. No profit and you don;t stay in business. He can hire consultants to help with figuring this all out. If you are using a program like Quickbooks and entering things properly this will go a long way in helping determine overhead.
In addition follow each project closely with man hours and net profit from each project. You will quickly find out what jobs actually make you money and which jobs you lose money on. It will become apparent and may be surprising once you start doing this.
Finally since has more work that can do, start cherry picking the projects you take on and focus on the most profitable ones. And raise rates.
Good luck, running a successful profitable business isn't easy.
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Refurbishing the wheels on 1919 Chandler. Three are in great shape. This one has a gap about 1/5 way around the wheel. The metal band is not out or round. What do I do if anything? Finding another wheel will be all but impossible. The wood seems solid. Do I just fill it with an epoxy or something? I am a novice at working prewar cars and learning as I go.
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If it were me I would put new tubes in. My only experience with new tubes has been with my Model A New tires and tubes approx 5K miles and no issues. Beyond that I don't know.
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I would not bank on this especially the idea that the car doesn't need to be present.I live in Georgia and over the past ten years I have had three antique cars and one antique motorcycle that i purchased, and in obtaining a title fro each one a police officer had to come to my house and personally inspect the VIN including a Ford Model A purchased from New Jersey that I had the previous title for. That's just been my experience.
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1 hour ago, JFranklin said:
Might just be the original formula re-labeled since they are making latex otherwise. It looks just like the paint I remember.
I figured that too but thought what the heck. It is thicker than their normal enamel paint. I imagine it wont go as far, but for covering up badly pitted metals is what I will use it for.
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On 1/3/2023 at 4:02 PM, 46 woodie said:
was cutting off a frozen and badly rusted exhaust flange using a 4" grinder with a cut-off wheel. The grinder had a "click on click off" switch and somehow kicked back and landed running, on the top of my right hand. The cut off wheel sliced thru tendons and ligaments and put a 1/8" notch in the bone. Four hours of surgery and 3 months of PT and it's good as new. Oh, by the way, the grinder went into the trash and now have one that stops when you release the trigger.
Started reading this and immediately thought this is not gonna end well. OUCH! Makes me think I might need to go chuck my hand grinder keeps spinning long after you release the trigger.
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Most serious for me while working on an older car was cutting the tendon in my finger. Audible snap and finger went limp. But as a teenager constantly working on motorcycles my dad would always tell me I was going to get hemorrhoids from sitting on the cold concrete in the unheated garage. 59 now and no 'roids so I guess he got that one wrong.
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I picked this up from Tractor Supply. Had not seen it before. But i have to say this paint is nice and thick and fills pitted metals and deep grooves nicely, Had these deep grooves in the wheel hub below, and this is just one coat and wasn't applying it heavy but the paint filled them. They also had semi gloss black that I can see myself using on some of the frame components that are pretty pitted. Anyway thought some might find this useful.
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18 hours ago, 29 Chandler said:
Jim Lackey’s book only shows 34x4 for 1919. Where did you confirm the tire size of 34x4.5?
Yes I have that book and boy is it full of information. Honestly my car may be a 1920 It was titled in the 60's as a 1919 but the VIN number is in the 1920 range. And the one tire my father kept is 34"x 34.5" My confusion started with the stamping on the wood spoke section that says 33" x 4" Then I was informed that I was measuring the outer rim wrong and how the tire numbers worked in that era. One big learning curve for me. I guess since the car has been referred to as the 1919 Chandler ALL my life I need to change what I call it.
The whole car is strange. It is a roadster but the doors are not Chandler as the hinges are exposed. and the back half of the body has about 7" extension brazed on. Also you can see where the back half was once a coupe. You can see where they took torches to cut the top off, and nice flat area where the windows were. There is no trunk, but did have bows and a convertible roof. And the car was painted yellow and as best i can tell it was only painted once and as far as i know while Chandler painted some wood spoke rims yellow in the teens they never offered yellow as a body color
It's been a fun project. As you know there just is not much out there to use as a reference on these Chandlers, especially in the early years.
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29 Chandler, thanks for the photos as they will come in handy as i have never mounted tire on these types of rims. As it turns out y rims do call for 34"x 4.5" Ordered tires, tubes and rim flats today from Coker. Your wheel look beautiful by the way.
Eric
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Sure looks like a very reasonable car to get going with. Does it run? Looks complete and that's a biog time saver for sure.
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9 hours ago, Bloo said:
Rim size is measured at the bottom of the bead surface, not the outer edge of the rim.
Thanks, I measured the outside diameter. The whole thing is getting confusing To add to it on the outside of the wood spokes portion is stamped 33"x 4" See photo. Yet the one tire my dad kept I assume to use as a reference clearly says 34" x 4.5"
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I have never mounted tires on Demountable rims so i have no experience. My question is will 34" x 4" and 34" x 4.5" tires fit on the same rim? I got this car disassembled with one old tire that says 34x4.5" I can only assume it came off this car. Chanlder claims to have used both 4 and 4?5 inch tires for that year depending upon body style. Problem is I don't know the body style as the body is not original. The rims are 26" diameter
Any help or insight is appreciated. I found a great deal at Hershey on two 34" x 4" new tires, but need to order two more.
Eric
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Wow! what a place. So 220 hrs in a grill That is going to be one very expensive grill.
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Thanks both of you for the info on the 600w oil. I do use this in my Model A so good to know I have a source for it. Filling the differential wont be cheap. haha
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3 hours ago, dibarlaw said:
The other gasket is between the axle hub assembly and the face of the wheel keeping the grease in the chamber provided
Thanks for responding. Though i am not sure what you mean by the sentence above. I hate that I am ignorant ion this stuff. This is the first prewar car I have worked on beside Ford Model A bit for that there are so many resources available fro help. You mentieond the year and type of car so i will google and see if I can come up with any sort of diagram. Any clarification on this you can provide is appreciated.
Eric
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I am slowly rebuilding a 1919 Chandler that my father tore apart years ago, so everything has been a slow puzzle to solve. This is a 3/4 floating rear end so no seals or bearing in the axle housing at the ends. I am assuming a felt or rubber seal goes in the indentation behind the bearing and that there must be a metal washer so the ball bearings are not in contact with the seal? In the parts i have located on old rubber seal and one old felt seal that fit. And only one flat washer that seems to fit.
Question is felt or rubber, and am I correct in thought that some sort of metal spacer needs to be in between seal and bearing.
While on this subject should I use 90 weight gear oil in the reared or something thicker? Manual just says heavy oil, and as you can imagine not much info out their on Chandlers from the teens.
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I think asking for a specific photo so you know he/she has the car is a very reasonable request. If I got push back on that I would definitely forget it. This day and age any reasonable person would understand a potential buyer being leery.
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Who needs a tree? We deliver.
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The CODE thing is a scam on Facebook marketplace I have had people try that we me also.Not a scam on the seller's part here but people trying to scam him/her.
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Send your wife on vacation for a few days then hustle to get the stinky work done.
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17 hours ago, 29 Chandler said:
Eric can you post a picture? If it is the same as my 1914 Chandler I can help advise you.
Here you go. Pretty certain it goes opposite this photo and would be on the lower side. Our rear ends are probably the same. This has been one big puzzle fro me.
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1914 L-head Rod Knock or timing chain noise?
in Technical
Posted
As the owner of a 1919 Chandler, let me know what you ultimately find as we share the same motor. Are the timing chains adjustable? When I had the cover off mine I gathered not adjustable.
Eric