GaryP65

Yep. Disconnected, battery is good and nothing. I took off the hoop already and wires and springs are ok. The only thing I see is a little darkening on the commutator but not bad. Fingernail test shows mica is ok too.

Cardboard ok I did notice that there is only one insulated washer (on the unspun post). Looks like I need to fashion one. What I'm now focused on is the SG.Why it won't spin when I bypass the starter box.

So while I'm posting that my wires are now correct cuz my ammeter is registering, she doesn't want to start. Can't make this stuff up!! Unfortunately my brain is wrapped up around the starter box and I pull it out, take it apart and notice that one of the contact plates is spun. No biggie. I re-tighten, put in back together and reinstall. Nothing! What I should have done instead of bothering with the box was to jump it to see if the SG is out to lunch. So I connected it to the battery and.... nothing! Still having fun but.... Anyone want to buy a car?

OK gents... Now I know I got the wiring correct. When I turn on the lights. BAM. needle swings to full DISCHARGE!

One Craigs diagram yes. Mine is different. So I got bored and went out to the garage and traced my wires! Yep! It's official. I'm an idiot. Got the ammeter wires wrong on the starter switch.

So now I'm thinking that maybe since the whole positive ground thing is new to me that maybe I got something wired wrong. Remember, I rewired the whole car. Check out the attached photo. Notice I put a + & - at the ammeter. + = Charge, - = Discharge Correct?

Hitting the horn brings the ammeter to about 8 on the chage side not the discharge side.

I have about 12.5v

Nope

Forgot to mention. Last time around I thought it was faulty and since I know nothing about this unit, I sent it to Myers and Tom said it wasn't too bad and sent it back to me (still charged me full price).

So now that I got this thing on the road (sorta). I've been keeping an eye on my ammeter and while driving I do not see the needle moving (in either direction). I had the SG tested sometime ago when I thought it was faulty but an old timer in an alternater shop said it was good and the charging side is working. I took the ammeter out to test using a 9v battery and the needle moved so I'm sure that it's working although you all know I'm electrically challenged. The reason I started on this is that I noticed my battery keeps running low. Any thoughts?

I'm using valve's as a last option.

Compression is good. If I remember correctly, the lowest I have is 47psi.... Timing should be good but it is on my list of things to verify. First thing I'm looking at is the carburetor. Adjustment screw is all the way lean so I may need to reposition the rocker. I'm sure their good (but will check) the plugs. I will say that I don't think my timing advance linkage moves enough. It only seems to move the distributor about 1/2". Also agree to Craig on the advance. How about valve adjustment? That's the last thing I want to deal with.

All done. All good. Driving around and now need to adjust for lack of power. Barely made it up a small hill.

Awesome! Thank you both for your help. However, I do not see any holes for the Y bracket. Looks like I'm drilling. For the brackets already on the car, I removed the front one. For the rear one, looking closer, it seems that the hole is not the same diameter as the pipe. So I removed that one as well. I mocked the muffler up and it looks like I need to chop about 3 inches off the exhaust pipe. The tail pipe sits perfectly with the bend centered right over the differential. The crappy part of this is now I have to remove the gas tank so I can drill and mount the Y bracket.

So I've asked this on anther post but no luck so I'll try a new one. The brackets don't seem to match up with the system I got from Myers. The 1st bracket lines up with the exhaust pipe. However, the bracket after the muffler does not seem to work with the tailpipe that goes over the differential. Also unsure about the brackets provided. The large Muffler clamps do not have any holes drilled for bolting. The 'Y' shaped bracket doesn't seem to have a home.

Personal or car? I can always sell the car.........

And therein lies the problem.... This is not an issue nor I have never seen this with any other era so naturally I got stumped. Thank you for being the voice of reason where no one seemed to get it! All sorted out and working fine only this part was NOT fun. I just need my muffler post answered and new glass for the front and I can get my inspection so I can get something out of this remaining good weather. I NEED to take a drive!!

I get that whole thing but what was confusing me was why the other light was burning. And I thought 60's and 70's was basic. Sometimes you don't think there is anything more basic and that's when trouble starts. Thank you everyone for helping de-confuse me on this, past and FUTURE issues

So what is the verdict on this? I have the mount that 26willys has but got from Myers a tailpipe that goes over the axle and a bracket shaped like a Y but no place to mount it. Any thoughts on this? Also, how do the large brackets for the muffler attach?

Oh crap! Crazy what a tiny piece of emery cloth can do!! All I did was scuff where the tits on the bulb attaches on the housing! So now that bulb that shouldn't have lite (license) doesn't until you turn the switch to park or on (like it should) and the stop light lights when I step on the brake. S.O.B.!

Makes sense. Thanks for the heads up. I'll check them out.

There are 2 bulbs. The one that is lighting is the lower license plate bulb. NOT the stop light.

Must not be explaining it properly. I have lights but the wrong one is lighting.