1955Buick

Hi Tom, Thank you for your reply. I checked late last night, and I realized that my original shocks have a bigger "offset", or "bend" in the arm than the ones I had rebuilt. I did not notice the difference before. I ended up getting it to fit for now by putting the link in backwards, but I will probably get the original shocks rebuilt so that the fit is perfect. Patrick

Hello, I have a 1955 Buick Super and just got the rear lever shocks rebuilt. I ordered new shock links as well. The new shock links are 7" center to center. The new shock and link seemed to work well on the passenger side, but on the driver's side, the end of the link interferes with the fuel tank seam. The driver's side link I replaced seemed to be *shorter* than the passenger side link, so now I'm really confused about what the correct link length should be. Does anyone know - are the link lengths supposed to be identical, and what the length is? Thank you - Patrick

That would be fantastic if you could send a picture, so I could be sure. Thank you very much.

Hello, I feel like I must be missing something. I have a rebuild power steering pump for my 1955 Buick Super, but I can't seem to find a pulley for it in any of the usual places. Does anyone know where I should look? Thanks, Patrick

Thanks, everyone. Good advice all around. I appreciate it.

Interesting. Is that just "the way it is" with new hoses, or can new hoses with the original form factor be obtained?

Thank you for your suggestion. I have been looking for air bubbles over the months, and there haven't been any. I think I resolved the issue - and it's a little embarrassing, but here goes... I didn't realize there were both power steering fluid at play and separately, gear oil. I was reading the shop manual last night and figured I'd better check the gear oil. Unfortunately, it was virtually empty. I filled it this morning and the noise appears to be gone. I wonder if without gear oil the system was having to push too hard on the piston? I also wonder if I should still get it rebuilt, even though it appears to function fine now. Patrick

I did - both hoses are new. I also noticed yesterday that the 4 bolts on the steering gear (surrounding the adjusting screw) were all totally loose. So I tightened those. It makes me wonder about replacing the steering gear with a rebuilt just as a precautionary measure might be a good idea.

Hi folks, I have a 1955 Super, and have had it for 7 years / 15,000 miles. About a year ago the power steering pump was constantly groaning, and intermittently failed to provide boost. 6 months ago, I replaced this "original" power steering pump with a rebuilt pump. Not a week later, that pump started groaning (though it seemed to function well). I returned the rebuilt pump and got another one in exchange. This latest pump also functions well, but it is very noisy when I provide steering input. If I am not turning the steering wheel, it doesn't make any noise. In other words, it functions well, but if it is being asked to do "work", it is very noisy about it. I am starting to suspect the power steering gear, but only because I don't have any reason to think 2 rebuilt pumps are faulty. I don't know much about power steering gear in practice. Does anyone think faulty steering gear (or some other component) could cause this behavior in a power steering pump? Thanks, Patrick

Thank you for sending this along. I picked up a tool and some clips that I think will do the trick. I appreciate it. Patrick

Hi, I have a door handle that started sticking in the "open" position. I need to get inside to have a look, but I'm not sure how to remove the handles so I can get the inner door panel off. Does anyone know what the steps are? I assumed removing the screws, and the 2 handles, and then the panel would pop off somehow? Thanks, Patrick

I'm leaning towards the radials (Diamondbacks). If for some reason it's not right for me, there's always a next time for me and tires. I'm not trying to cheap out, but I do wonder if it is common to pay list price + around $150 for shipping, or if there are other options (is it common for anyone to stock them more locally?). Thanks, everyone. Patrick

Thanks for all the great advice, folks. It is a great looking car (I think), but I drive it a lot more than I show it, so it's a good point about "intent". I thought years ago I read somewhere that I should not put radial tires on a car designed for bias ply, but I'm not hearing that here, and I can't remember where or when I did. Thanks, Patrick

Hello, I have had a 1955 Buick Super for 4 years, and now it needs new tires. It looks like I have Coker Classic Bias Ply tires at the moment, but I wonder if anyone has any advice on replacing them with identical, or is there a better choice? Thanks, Patrick

Hi, Once every 30 or 40 times I drive my Super, it gets into a state where, with just slight pressure on the brake pedal, one of the brakes locks up. I think the last time this happened, just as I was pulling out of a parking lot but before I applied the brakes, I felt a slight "drag" once per tire revolution. It made me wonder if the drum was out of round (?). Any ideas for how to diagnose? The problem appeared to correct itself after a few stabs at the power brake pedal. Thanks

Hi, I have a 1955 Buick Super (have owned for 3-1/2 years). The transmission has always leaked a little, but now it leaks a lot. My mechanic had a look, and said it is leaking from the "torque ball bellows at output shaft housing". My mechanic can't repair it, and the old timer in the transmission shop nearby said it is a "pain in the ass" and he won't work on it, either. I can probably drive it a few dozen miles, or tow it further on a trailer if I had to. Any advice on where to get the repair work done (I'm in San Jose, CA)? Thanks, Patrick

You are totally correct. First thing this morning I put a coat hanger through, pulled hard on the bolt, and it popped right open. I adjusted the mechanism attached to the hood so it was halfway between its extreme fore and aft positions, and WD40'd the mechanisms. I just went for a 60 mile drive on curvy, bumpy 2-lane roads, and the hood stayed shut. This never would have happened before. Thank you, everyone, for all the great advice. Patrick

Thanks, John. This is helpful advice. I have tried both of the "pushing" suggestions you made. But as I think more about your answer, I realize I left out a critical piece of information. When I try to "unlatch", I do in fact get the hood to raise perhaps 3/8". It makes me wonder if I am getting hung up not on the latch mechanism as designed, but on that outer oval "ring" above it. If that makes sense. If that is a possibility, then I need to look for a way to move the hood a little bit forward and / or side to side to see of that dislodges it (I think). Failing all that, I need to try to go after the bolt, as you described... Thanks, Patrick

Hi folks, I am new to the forum - thanks for any help you can provide. I have had a 1955 Buick Super for 2 years. It is in pretty good shape and my son and I have had lots of fun with it. I occasionally try to make improvements, and am usually successful, but I blew it this time. The hood often "pops up" (but is caught by the safety latch), and I wanted to fix this. Someone suggested moving the hood lock "back towards the engine", so I did this. It was good advice, in a way. The hood does not pop up any more. But I cannot open it intentionally either. I have tried poking a screwdriver in at the "blade" that holds the lock down, with no luck. I've tried poking and pushing and pulling wherever I can reach with a coat hanger, etc. I have tried everything non-destructive I can think of, but somehow the relationship of the lock and latch is now such that I cannot pop the hood. I'm not a total slouch, but I'm not a mechanic, either. Any ideas on what I might need to take apart to get at the latch and make an adjustment? Take the bumper and grille off? I just have no ideas. Thanks, Patrick