mensanguy
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Posts posted by mensanguy
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Word to the wise ::: I have found that New, OEM parts, even though they may cost more, save you a fortune in headaches
Can't tell you the number of times that old, or new 'low-cost" parts have caused me frustration when troubleshooting.
Even though the old part may have been working-How well was it working??
I'd replace it to be sure...
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My 2cents worth--when I tried to clean the IAC of my car with carburetor cleaner, it somehow dissolved the inner workings, resulting in my having to replace it with a new unit.. Replacing it with an OEM unit cleared up my problem completely.
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Seems like a reasonable price
This is located close to me, and if anyone is interested I can go by and check it out for them
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OK, i give up, what IS it?
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try any glass shop. i believe tht they are the same for lebarons of this year
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Teves brake unit, off a running (wrecked) car, guaranteed $950, or as-is $650
Royal Cabernet floor mats, VGC, $95
Ginger mats GC $95
Headlight assy
no side light Good cond $175
Headlight Assy
w/ side light VGC $325
OEM front license plate holder, one has
small chip on top, other no chip but missing
a lower support Two for $25
Plus shipping from Norfolk Va 23509
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I have a set of like new Royal Cabernet and Ginger, but no black....
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What "I" do, this time of year, when it's nice and hot, is lather them up with leatherique, and put a plastic trash bag over them between treatments ( several applications over a few days in the heat with the windows rolled up. ) has worked well for me over the years.
Plus, you can drive the car as needed with the bags on them.
You might want to use pristeen clean on them first, to get out all the oils and dirt. Sounds like they may be clogged up with the previous products you used. Remember, lots of rinses until a white towel comes up clean! I have had excellent results with leatherique. The seats may have backing and padding on them also, making direct contact with the actual leather covers and product difficult.
Add elbow grease and the results will be worth the effort.
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There's been a lot of discussion about what our coveted 16v'S are worth in past postings.
Supposedly. something is worth what someone else is willing to pay for it, so here are some recent actual recent sales figures to support it.
1989--70k miles--$5500 ( last year)
1989 -37k- $6100 6/02
1989- 52k-$6000 6/02
1989-3k-$???? 6/02
From the data above, it indicates that as of now, they are worth at least $5500-6000 in any condition.
I haven't seen any 8V break that ceiling ( yet)
ps I purchased my current 16v w/20k on it for $5000 in 2016
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Glad to see that all my snooping around and posting oddities led someone to the car they really wanted!!!
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leatherique works best.
Did you get my pm about the inst cover?
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OK, what gives? This one needing lots of paint work, a complete brake system ( disclosed) , questionable mileage ( odometer was never shown) and lots of other things sells for $6100.
I could only get $5100 for one in pristine garage-kept condition with actual mileage last year.
Appears that some people like to pay big money to rescue cars.
( however, this car DID have BOTH 16v badges displayed in all of the pictures which I feel justified the higher price)
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located in E bay check it out---
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After soaking in water for six weeks, using live steam from an industrial boiler and every lotion and compound I finally gave up on stretching the leather back on my inst. cluster, and took it to an upholstery shop, who charged me a (cheap!) $100 to replace the cover with matching black leather.
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3,000 miles?
Seems possible.. check it out
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Our cars are of the 'Old-school" theft protection, anyone with a razor knife can cut the canvas top and use a screwdriver to break into the steering column lock and start and drive away in less than a minute.
A friend suggested that I go to the rollover switch and tap into it, and wire a remote switch to activate this so the engine will not start/run. I would like to put the switch in a hidden location, such as under the front of the seat so it could be activated while sitting in the car.
Where is this switch located, and how would I do this? is it normally open or closed?
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I do. Very simple what he is asking for.
Probably because I have one also.....
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As a kid, I had a Mattel Vac-u-form machine, that held a square of 4x4 inch plastic over a heated plate till soft.
Then you swung it over a mold, and pumped down on a lever to pull a vacuum on the mold until the plastic cooled.
Pretty cool stuff, and it worked great for small things! They are still for sale on E bay, look them up.
Fast forward, think of all of the articles you buy today that are packaged the same way, plastic wrap is heated and sealed over a piece of perforated cardboard to enclose the item.
Ebay sells a frame to hold the plastic for forming, and a shop-vac is used for the vacuum source.
but, i am not sure where to source the clear plastic sheets to use, as well as how to heat up the plastic so it can be vacuformed.
Anyone with technical experience out there?
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I recently was able to acquire a near flawless set of glass headlight lenses , both sides, which were separated from the entire headlight lens assembly ( too rotten to even try to salvage). Just the glass.
I was thinking, if someone had access to a vacu-forming machine, a protective impact cover could be made of clear plastic using these as a mold.
Any thoughts?
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Two takeoffs from pick n pull
Oem rear brake calipers off a 89 8v
$40 for both plus shipping
i even have the receipt for them
shipping from Norfolk va
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I have two for sale, one has a small piece missing at the top, the other missing a lower bracket, but will work.
$25 and $15, or both for $35
Also have both rear brake calipers $40
Above, plus shipping from Norfolk Va.
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Preliminary diagnosis based on limited information suggests electrical ( such as distributor pickup) or a faulty fuel pump maybe. Those were problems my 16v encountered.
More details please and CODES??
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it ran again tonight 1-6 on CBs "Ghost" show !!
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Here's how to remove/repair/renovate our TC seats
-Remove/lower the tops for accessibility
-Remove the bolts holding the seat to the body along with the electrical connectors
-Remove the whole seat assy from the car and place on a sturdy workbench. Be amazed at what you find that was hidden under the seat!!
-Remove the power chassis from the seat assy. This is a great time to clean all the 30 year accumulation of gunk and hardened grease from the slides and screw assembly's with a parts washer or a can of degreaser. Use care and a lot of rags. Get back to the car, and plug in the electrical and 'exercise" the assembly. assuring that everything works as is should. If not, now is the time to repair/replace the motors, etc.
-Lubricate with a quality, stiff grease that wont attract or hold lint, dirt, etc. I use "door-ease", but I am sure
members here can recommend something better. Just make sure that everything works as it should.
Now, for the fun part--removing the covers. First- separate the seat tops from the bottoms, keeping note of where the attachment screws go. A pair of wire cutters, needle nose and small picks will allow you to easily remove the covers. Take your time, and if you get stuck, put it down and come back later. Most of the time, the bottom cover just peels off, if it don't-now is the time to go to an upholstery shop. They have all the sewing machines, tools and expertise to get it back in original shape. And most of the hard work has been done by you.
BONUS TIME! if you've come this far, you need to look at the frame under the foam of the seat bottom, particularly on the left side of the seat. This is where the wire frame pushes thru the foam and wears thru the leather, and tends to poke into our bony asses. You've all seen it. First, remove the foam layers. if they are too far gone, now is the time for the upholstery shop to fabricate another, unless you like being poked. Most of the time, you can use contact cement to glue them back together where they have been "torn" by the action of the metal wire frame working up thru the seat. Let it set for a while so that it is good and sturdy. Next, get a piece of 3/8" hose, slit it, and cover that obtrusive wire. Then, go to a hardware store, and get a piece of 1/2" RIGID poly pipe foam insulation, and cut, tape, glue, etc over the rubber hose to give some bearing surface to the whole thing.
Now, assemble in reverse order, and be amazed at how much better the seat feels!!
Sorry about no pics, I'll be glad to answer any questions you may have.
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TPS or other problem - drives erratic
in Chrysler's TC by Maserati
Posted · Edited by mensanguy (see edit history)
Check Rock auto they list three for the TC, by AC Delco and standard auto pts That's where I bought mine, and it cleared up all the problems you are having, There's even a video about what this part does, and its only around $ 30
AC delco # is 217 1685
other # is 89052703 o