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Robert Street

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Posts posted by Robert Street

  1. 1 hour ago, 1931Chry said:

    I believe this scam is a typical "Overpayment Scam".

    Real basic description - They will send you more money than you request. After you receive the 'payment', they will 'apologize' for sending too much and ask you to refund them. After you 'pay them back' the difference, the original overpayment will have bounced or been declined - and you will have paid the scammer for nothing.

     

    Although this link is from the Australian Government, it still gives an accurate rendition of this scam, regardless of where you live:

     https://www.scamwatch.gov.au/types-of-scams/buying-or-selling/overpayment-scams

     

    Good Luck selling your MG!

    concur!

    Robert

  2. Thanks for the comments everyone. I am going to stay with the antique car insurance company that I have been with for years.  As another issue that came up in comments I do also have an umbrella liability policy even though one of my cars has been accepted at the Hemmings Lake George Concours event not Pebble Beach as the commenter used an example.

    Now to find none exploding trailer tires!

    Robert

  3. 10 minutes ago, 39BuickEight said:

    Based on my 10 years of experience as an automobile adjuster with a major brand carrier, and dealing with other major carriers in liability claims, their agents are quick to sell the product (because they are salespeople), but when it come to claims, they are extremely lacking in the knowledge/ability in how to properly deal with a damaged antique/classic/collectible vehicle.  It doesn’t matter if the premium is lower, if, when you need them, they don’t know how to handle your claim.  That’s where the specialty insurers excel.

     

    I still work for a major carrier, and use them for my house and daily drivers, but I have Hagerty on my collectibles.

     

    That is what I wanted to hear Thanks!!!!!

    Robert

    • Like 1
  4. I just thought of another good reason NOT to drive a classic show car.  In the area I live there is a tremendous influx of people and their driving skills aren't the best so the accident rate has gone up considerably in the area.  Having said that I would rather be in a repairable GMC 3500 diesel Denali vs a 61 or 62 Impala SS 409.

    Robert 

  5. 1 hour ago, edinmass said:

    Insuring non tagged cars is not expensive if you have a good garage. You can bundle them all together on one policy. Now.......I respect all in the hobby, and how they pursue their fun.......why would one own a car that you don't drive?

    Ed I was waiting for a driving comment on this one and here you are! I have no desire to drive my two best show cars for several reasons. I have been fortunate both have been in museums and both I show at national shows not at local area parking lot shows. I kind of enjoy pounding the roads with a trailer and my big diesel Denali.  I don't think that a national show car should be driven as it then doesn't become as delivered by the manufacturer.  When I get a chance I walk around at a show and enjoy looking at the many classes of cars but must admit I shake my head when I see one that has the paint burned off the engines or one that has grease oozing from steering boxes.  Many of them should be on the other field where driving cars are.

    I have actually started cutting back on shows as several I have observed have several miles that the show cars must be driven from the trailers lot to the showfield over state highways with no tags!

    I have all of them in a climate garage/shop and yes they are bundled in an antique car insurer.  Recently I have been asking regular insurers about their agreed upon policy and one flat told me they will do it but the cars must be tagged.  I am not interested in giving Maryland hundreds of dollars for cars not driven. The one that thought they wouldn't require tags is unable to give me a blank policy to review before acceptance.

    As of now I am going to stay with the antique policy even though it is a "tick" more and will allow the convertible to be tagged as I don't regularly show it and only use it during parade seasons as the political folks love to be riding in a older convertible.

    Robert

     

  6. 7 hours ago, kevin1221 said:

    Chris

     

    Is this State Farm agreed value policy obtained through your local agent, or do you have to go to a Special State Farm site? Reason I asked, when I tried to get an agreed value policy on my 2008 Shelby, my local agent told me they don’t offer agreed value policies. It’s possibe my local agent just wasn’t aware of this type of policy. I live in a rural area of Nevada.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Kevin

     

    State Farm is one of the “regular” insurance companies I’ve contacted and the agent was knowledgeable about the agreed value policy although they call it something else. I will admit he had to call headquarters a couple of times though for clarification. Interesting though I don’t seem to be able to get a blank copy of that type of policy to review prior to. Interesting......  Another interesting item they do require the photos like antique cars policies but they didn’t ask for details on one of mine that has an elevated value due to the way the car was optioned. It took an extra week for approval originally on that car

    Robert

  7. 11 minutes ago, oldcarfudd said:

    Just what is a "non-driven show car"?  Do you drive it from your garage to the trailer, and from the (possibly remotely parked) trailer to the show field and back?  Do you drive it to get gas?  While you're at it, since it's a nice day, do you go on into town and get a haircut?  If your Aunt Minnie comes to visit, do you take her for a ride? If an insurance company gives you a price break because of minimal use, and you have an accident, you'd better be mighty sure that the use you were making of the car was well within the minimal use the company thought it had agreed to.  Otherwise, I'd suggest you stick with companies that insure driven antiques, even if it costs you a few more pesos a year.

    The non-driven show cars I own are driven from the shop area 50 feet to a trailer then from the trailer to the AACA national showfield.  Since some National events now have long drives(several miles) to showfield on state highways I no longer am entering these. No other drives or even starting of the cars.

    Robert

    I am still leaning to stay with the antique insurance companies but welcome all opinions.

  8. I have my cars insured with one of the large "agreed" coverage companies.  They are not driven nor are they tagged.  I do have the 61 Convertible tagged as the politicians love the older convertibles during parade season.

    I recently learned several of the larger conventional insurance companies have started "agreed" value insurance for non driven show type cars at I must admit competitive rates.

    Any comments?

    Robert

  9. 3 hours ago, padgett said:

    Being frugal I run modern radials on everything. Seems to me the answer is two sets of wheels and tires,  one set for events and a second set for everyday. That is what I always did with race/autocross cars. Judge in particular this way since stock 14s with 2 ply (4 ply rated) tires were "not even safe in the driveway" - Goodyear tire engineer.

     

    I carry a tube/iron in some of my modern cars simply because there is no room for a spare. Do not try to run a tube with TPMS sensors though.

     

    Back in the day we used to paint the insides of rims to control porosity.

     

    Another person who had to paint high porosity wheels back in the day!

    Robert

  10. 8 hours ago, nick8086 said:

    I am not looking to avoid taxes.. I just want someone to take care of my stuff..  My old cars...

    I can’t help you as I have conditioned space. I am “thinning” also

    Robert

     

     

     

  11. 12 hours ago, Roger Walling said:

    The tow vehicle is the 55 Chrysler. I would like to tow a 2000 lb. trailer (6000 lb. max total weight)with a 57 Chevy on it.

     

    You might want a chase vehicle of 3/4 ton rating. There are plenty of them out there so why not purchase one considering the expectation of breakdown expenses occurring 

    I am not a fan of 1/2 ton tow vehicles. Been there and gotten over them

    robert

  12. 6 minutes ago, edinmass said:

    Trusts work fine.......BUT ......they can be expensive when the trustee and advisors take big bites out of the capital. Make them simple, so they are easy to manage. Leaving in lots of complicated assets that require time, upkeep, and attention is a sure way to draw down on the assets. Most likely your family really doesn't want cars.......or any of your other collectibles. Liquidate them and just leave the minimum amount of tangibles in the trust, the rest should just be cash and a portfolio. From 25 years and two different trusts, my two cents. MAKE IT SIMPLE.

     

    Agreed as my daughter doesn’t want the cars!  I have started “thinning the herd”

    robert

    • Like 1
  13. The Ocala Winter National trip was expensive as busted all four of the trailer's Goodyear Marathons(Chinese made) plus a "Loadstar" (Chinese).   Oh the Goodyears were 4 years old.  Friends towed same mileage on Goodyear Endurance (USA) no issues.  No issues observed by the TPMS screen.

    Robert

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  14. kfle

    Jim is spot on in his advise but states are different.  I am certain that a commercial policy is necessary as you are interstate transporting another party's items.  Another item that might raise up is in order to obtain proper insurance commercially you will have to have your trailer and your tow truck in a LLC or corporate  ownership which is easily done.  But then you will probably be in FMC domain and need FCC registration and inspections.  Then comes the non-hazmat CDL license items.   I have had similar requests throughout the years but always have to decline.

    Robert

    Let us know what your attorney and commercial insurance underwriter advises!

  15. On 3/5/2019 at 9:06 PM, imported_Bob Hill said:

    Anyone know for sure if Antique Auto Battery is out of business or not? Their website is still up and running but I have read in several sites that they actually are no longer in business.  

     

    I need a new battery prior  to the Charlotte show but don’t want to waste time with them if they really aren’t in business.

     

    thanks

     

    Bob

    I have received a DC12 from Jim and it seems like the antique ones were. Not sure if you can get one for Charlotte though.  They were operating with the same phone number as Antique was.

    Robert

  16. On 3/5/2019 at 10:43 PM, Bhigdog said:

    Or: you could buy a battery from your local napa store for 1/3 the cost. Use a hair dryer to heat and remove the graphics. At a show pull the two fill covers off of battery and replace them with 6 fill caps from a vintage or repro battery. Easy peasy at 1/3 the price and 3 times the battery life........bob

    Yes, very true "but"  the vintage fill caps will need some machining or adjustments as they are quite bigger than the current battery fill holes. Not a monumental task.

    Robert

  17. 5 hours ago, charlier said:

     

    So sorry to see your post about your trailer tire problems.

    Any idea as to the cause of the tire failures? (ie debris on the road puncturing the tires, etc)

    I lost a trailer tire on my way to Hershey one year thanks to debris slashing the sidewall of the tire.

    I did not even know I lost that tire until I stopped for a periodic trailer check about 7 miles into my trip.

     

    BTW, are you using a Tire Pressure Monitoring System for your trailer tires? I am looking at systems for my car trailer that monitors tire pressure and temperature. I think it is time for me to invest in a system before my 1,200 mile round trip to Auburn this year.

     

    Also, does your ATC trailer have a street side escape door with the removable fender/wheel well? I have always wondered how these removable fender/wheel wells hold up in the event of a tire situation like you encountered.

     

     

     

    1.  No idea of tire failure as 4 were Goodyear Marathon that were 4 years old. The “Loadstar” was one of my pile of spares that had no exposure to sunlight except for brief spare usage and had a ten year old date. All 5 suddenly exploded and chunked the tread so puncture not likely.

    2.  Yes I use a trailer tires monitor system and there was no reduction of air pressure nor build up of heat on the screen at either tire sensor prior to the big pop. Yes the alarm for each tire that went went off at almost the time I heard the pop.

    3. My ATC is a 2007 model that doesn’t have the raised escape door over the fenders but does have an escape door placed correctly.

    4.  There isn’t any structural damage just the siding panels and the fender. The interior aluminum wheel well is damaged but is still not allowing any water in.

    5.  I don’t know what the outcome would be if a tire came apart with one of those doors. 

    Robert

    • Thanks 1
  18. 7 hours ago, Steve Moskowitz said:

    Robert, a bit far away but I bought my ATC trailer in Lansdale, PA (by Philly)

     

    Steve I have contacted the big ATC dealer down in Charlotte and I am impressed. They schedule your trailer for the shop and stock the fenders for my Quest series and the side panels. So they estimate a 48 hour turnaround for 4 panels and the fender. I am impressed!!

    Robert

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