Buffalowed Bill
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Posts posted by Buffalowed Bill
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On 9/9/2022 at 1:57 PM, Pfeil said:
Not Germaine.
It's quite relevant because states influence each other. Just look at that latest California EV law. There are thirteen states that have followed California.
Connecticut, Delaware, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, and Washington.
Pardon my ignorance, but I don't know what California EV law you are talking about. However pertinent to this discussion, about five years ago the state of Washington, stopped all emission testing. This reversed a long standing testing process. Common sense led to the realization that there is little air pollution from new vehicles, so testing them was making little sense. That left the older cars on the road who could be offenders, but since less then 1% of cars over twenty years old even exist, and since few of those are even driven, maintaining the resources to test them made little sense either.
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I may be totally incorrect, but I really don't think so. I own a 1931 80R President Four Season Roadster and formerly owned two 1933 and a 1934 Pierce Arrow. As I recall all four cars used the same or similar Ross steering box. Whether they were identical or just similar I really can't say. Obviously if the box isn't the same it wouldn't make any difference if the Pitman arm is different. I know that PA used a Gemmer box during the first years after Studebaker bought the company. I believe that they changed to the Ross box about 1931. A short time spent looking through an old Hollander interchange manual could also broaden your search.
If it turns out that the PA box is a direct match you need to contact John Cislak in Ma. He and his brother in law run a thriving business selling used and repop PA parts.
Classic Auto Restoration
33Briggs St.
Indian Orchard, Ma. 01151
413 543 9017
I'm sure that Gary, Rex or someone else will correct anything that I got wrong.
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Several years ago I stopped subscribing to most of the magazines I was taking, some of which I had been taking for decades. I had been looking at my bookshelves that that were full of 50+ years of books and periodicals. Why had I been saving all this stuff. I was never going to reread it!
I began to compare the content of what I was currently getting to the vintage copy. In most cases the newer stuff was just not as good. As my subscriptions ran out I just didn't renew. To be honest there were feeling of withdrawal for a while-what was I missing and how was I going to be able to keep current with the hobby that had been so much a part of me, for so long? Not to worry, social media had already filled that gap. It took about six months to overcome the feelings of withdrawal. Today I'm enjoying reading what I want and when I want to read it. If I lived to be a hundred I will still have stuff on the shelves that I have not reread.
As an aside I find that it's been interesting comparing the predictions and opinions of yore with the real world dynamic. Perspective is not just a case of where we are going, but also how we got here as well.
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I think you have your answer-yes! The hobby is so diverse that appealing to everyone is impossible. I'm drawn to the cars that are seldom seen. Cars from independent manufacturers, surviving originals and stripper models, regardless of make, model or engine all speak to me. That's a rule of thumb, but honestly I never know which car will suck me in until I see it. As someone indicated previously it's all about the car. Those of us who recognize that every car has a story may not be mainstream, but we are not going away. You won't have to look for us at a car show or cruise, we will find you!
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1 hour ago, TAKerry said:
Are you referring to 'Automotive Touch Up' in New Orleans? I am a happy customer of theirs. They have hundreds of paint codes, I have used them a couple of times and their match was spot on. If its an older car with non stock or new paint I doubt their system would work though.
I second the response for "Automotive Touch Up." I stop short of indorsing the company at this time. It seems like the pandemic impacted the company's production and order filling capabilities. The last time I ordered from them the it took months for them to fill the order. What we need is a more recent customer to respond.
These paints are for the most part base/clear. The clear that one uses is very important. The best clear IMO is the aerosol, two part product that the company sells as a companion to their color. I can't recall the maker, but it is available on Amazon and other outlets as well. Proper self protection is a must with this stuff. Make sure you don't skimp on the protection or get lazy!
My own experience has been limited to three 25-30yro. cars and the color match for the original colors was perfect. The company does have quite an extensive archival color bank. But the original color choices do thin out for older cars.
If you choose to use the aerosol can you need to know that it works best on vertical surfaces. In other words the propellant is more uniform if the can is held upright. It works better if you take the hood and trunk lid off and shoot either in a vertical position. For the top your on your own, just don't let the aerosol can get too low on product before going to a new can-don't ask me how I know!
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I wonder how many younger drivers realize that there is a law that says you have to dim your lights for oncoming traffic? Common sense tells me there can't be that many discourteous drivers. Or am I being too trusting of the character of the everyman?
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Not worth arguing over because I really don't know. Even though we have a 1935 Dictator coupe and a 1935 body here I have no 34 to which I can compare it. My source is Warren Coleman, who was very emphatic when trying to explain the difference. All I was able to grasp was that the difference in the coupes was low on the body behind the door or maybe under it, I'm not really sure.
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I'm waiting for the first time that I see a customer say "you screwed up my car, I hate it!" Irrespective of what it looks like the customer seems obligated to give it a thumbs up. I'd like to be that fly on the wall when the customer says what he really thinks!
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IMHO the car hobby, as we know it today, is of, by and for the Baby Boomers. There has never been a group of car crazies' like them before nor will there be another group like it that follows. These were the cars with which they grew up. They saved them restored them and continue to own them today.
I think that it is important to remember that there was little car preservation or restoration taking place before the Boomers made it a priority. There are no other generational advocates for old cars and the history that made them seem important. Our slow demise (Boomers) has already made a huge negative impact on the hobby.
Later generations have the ability to reap the benefits of the work that the Boomers provided. I just hope that there is enough interest from the youngsters to sustain part of legacy of the last four decades.
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I honestly can't say for sure, but the 34and 35 coupe bodies are different. So you take it from there.
Where is your friend located and which door is he looking for? You should be able to find a serviceable door near you. We have two rear doors on a 35 sedan body that has sat out for years. They are both straight, but there is a bit of rust on the lower lip of both, but the R. side has the least amount of rust. I'm just mentioning these in case your friend gets desperate. We live in the Seattle area. I won't pull or transport. Good luck!
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At the risk of overdoing this thing, some might still find some of this interesting. Everything about these early Camaros can be broken down by percentage as per their particular features. One day I had some time to kill and just to satisfy my own curiosity I began to parse out the features to determine about how many cars exactly like mine had been produced. Some items can be a big trend setter especially if it was a rare feature. These numbers are just from memory and would have been approximate anyway.
220,000 1967 Camaros produced
10% Rally Sport=22,000
3% of 67's were painted the rare one year only Royal Plumb=660
The rest of the items like 210 horse 327, Powerglide, column shift, standard interior, ww tires etc. are all kind of a blur ten years after I did the calculation. What I came up with approximately 26 identical cars produced! Remember this was just to satisfy my own curiosity and certainly not because any combination of these features on a standard Camaro would make it any more valuable!
With the proclivity of young owners to customize and tear them up when they were new, I figured that my chances of seeing another one like it was one step up from zero. About a year later I went to a big car show in Snohomish Washington. It was the last big car show of the year. Regardless of the odds there it was the spitting image of my car magnificently restored to original. Only in the Twilight Zone!
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On 3/8/2024 at 11:36 PM, zepher said:
Back in the mid 80's my brother had a '67 Camaro Sport Coupe with the 327 / Powerglide that had a column shift with the bucket seats but no console.
It went to the junkyard in the sky when his girlfriend parked it outside her parent's house and it was hit hard in the rear by a drunk driver.
Bent the frame and rear axle real bad so it was totaled.
In my collection I have a car with precisely this configuration. I've owned it since 1969 when I bought it from a cash starved friend for $400. The car had been in an accident early on and rebuilt. My friend bought it in the summer of 1967 for the price of the damage repair, $1200. He was the antithesis of a car guy and wanted me to look at it with him. He was willing to ignore the rough edges, so I told him to go ahead and buy it. Neglect and abuse was to be the it's plight for the next two years, until he blew the engine. At that time the car was tagged with it's name "The Purple Piggy" by a mutual friend.
My friend needed wheels and I had some cash. I had planned to do a quick engine R&R and resell the car. I put a $75 used 283 in the car over the weekend and was driving it on Monday. My girl friend at that time told me she wanted to buy it. Long story she never paid me for it and he new boy friend, a used car dealer told her that the car was not worth the $900 I was asking for it. So I continued to drive it for the next ten years and putting another 125K miles on it before it got parked-so much for that guy's opinion.
If a car has been good to me I try to give the same back. Today "Piggy" lives on, a much loved, Royal Plumb, Rely Sport-after my long duration, major refurbishment. It's not always how a car begins life that counts!
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Chris,
When time allows please share any photos you might have for our enjoyment.
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2 hours ago, starlightcoupe said:
I haven't been able to access the SDC Forum for two days. I thought maybe it was down for maintenance, or perhaps a host change.
I just left the SDC forum, no problem for me.
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On 2/10/2018 at 5:34 AM, edinmass said:
King-Seeley is a Latin term that translated into English means, broken when new, useless, and only there for judging in order for you to lose points in competition. Over the last forty years, I have owned dozens of cars with them. Some work great, some with incredible effort work when they want to, and others just piss me off. Sorry about that, but I had to say it. Now I just rig the guage to read 2/3 full, and don’t even bother with them anymore. I just keep the tank topped off unless on tour, then I track my mileage. They are simple, and on paper should be reliable, but they are not. I had a good run repairing them for better than ten years, and the last five I worked on kicked my A**, and I’m not one to give up on fixing anything. Prepare for any eventuality and you won’t be disappointed. Also, to be fair, todays specific gravity of the fuel is so much different than it was eighty years ago, even if working, it will probably not be very accurate.
PS-Curt is a great guy, I have been recently working with him, simply the best. Ed.
Thanks Ed for being that authority figure that said what had to be said! It does mirror my own experience in three cars. There is no doubt the most frustrating episode was while I was doing a final detailing on my 1931 Studebaker Four Season Roadster for it's trip to PB (ironically 31 Studebaker like the poster). I wasn't satisfied with the level the K/S was reading the level in the tank, and thought it should be able to do better. Inside the garage in which it was parked the temperature was <65degrees. I added enough red fluid to bring the gauge reading up to the known amount of fuel in the tank. But when I moved it out in the sun the change in temp. began to bring the fluid level up really fast. When it got to a level very close to the top of the gauge it became obvious that I had a real problem! I quickly moved in back into the garage and removed about 1/2 of the fluid. The gauge seems to have a mind of it's own. The gauge and I now have an understanding-it can feature whatever it wants to on a given day. As for me as long as it reads something and doesn't go crazy, I'm just as happy as can be!
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On 2/17/2024 at 9:02 AM, R Walling said:
Remember, hotrodders usually do not deprive purists of a fine antique, they mostly buy derelicts that purists didn't want bother to invest money or time in.
Wouldn't it be a wonderful if this were really true! The fact is that during the the glory days of the 90's and 2000's good original and restored cars were being scooped up by street rodders and customizers in large numbers. They were solid and required less work.
With the high cost of restoration and related services today few cars are being restored. That hasn't slowed down the guys who have big egos and little or no concern for the history that a survivor represents.
I'm old, tend to be a purist, but I also consider myself a realist. Regardless of my own inclinations, I have to ask myself if any of our goals are really so out of step with the customizers and newer car fans. Survival of the hobby may depend on how we learn to coexist with those that we may not agree with. It seems to me that inclusiveness of all things car related has to become part of hobby.
I don't believe that this means changing the goals of the AACA or other purist groups. However, it does seem we need to work on a more tolerant attitude.
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Studebaker still provided a optional oil bath air cleaner for it's 6cly cars up to until the end of production in 1966.
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I guess I need to respond. I've been around Studebakers all my life, 80yo this month, and I live in the foothills east of Seattle. When you say that you are interested in a 1950-51 Studebaker, the question leads to a huge number of questions. The two years may look similar but, there are a great many differences year to year and model to model. For brevity sake I'm going to assume that it makes little difference mechanically whether it's a Champion or a Commander as long as it is a serviceable driver. That leaves body style-4dr, 2dr sedan, 2dr Starlight Coupe, Business Coupe, Landcruiser and convertible. Before anyone can help you we have to know what body style(s) you will accept. We also need to know your price range and how far you might be willing to travel to get the right car.
As for the Coupe Express, depending on condition and price you may have hit the jackpot. The rest of the car world is awakening to the same wiles to which you fell pray. They are simply great looking automotive masterpieces, that appeal to both stocker and customizers. While the 1937 gets most of the love the 1938 and 1939 are not that far behind. The supply is quite limited so proceed accordingly. I may even know the truck you just found, but haven't seen it in years. Values are all over the place, but IMO, depending on condition, and the quality of work that was done to it, <$20-25K would seem to be a bargain.
You should scroll to Studebaker section of this form and pose the same questions. You should also think about joining the "Studebaker Drivers' Club" and the "Antique Studebaker Club." You should be able to get your questions answered through the forum, and you should be able to find the car you are looking for. Good luck!
Bill
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4 hours ago, Reynard said:
I've never seen an original '53 or newer Studebaker regardless of body style or wheelbase that didn't have rust. Most of them significant, some less so. ...and I'm here on the salt-free, relatively dry west coast. You may be in for a serious cosmetic, if not structural restoration. Parts are getting harder to find.
Good Luck
Yes and no regarding rust. I live on the WC too and have 11 rust free Studebakers in my collection. But some I've owned since the early 60's. All cars in the 50's rusted. At least Studebaker was still body on frame and rust could be handled easily with a wrench rather then a torch. This forum is apt to be a bit tough on street rodded cars. Regardless $3500 is not that much money. Is it worth it? Who really knows? Are you ready to do some work on the car, because you know you will have to? If you put some sweat equity into the project and a little money you shouldn't loose much. As an old friend once told me "If you have an itch you have to scratch it." I can't really guess at how bad your itch is, but you keep coming back to this car so....
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I apologize for my snide response, it was uncalled for. You obviously didn't know, nor would you have known how rare these are. It may depend on how old you are and how much time, work and money you are willing part with. I looked up your age-you may just be able to preserver long enough to get what you want. Good luck!
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Thanks Tom for backing me up on this one. An alteration to most cars seem to be met with indifference today. However there are some cars that need to be given a fighting chance at survival. This car and similar 1936-37 President coupes just shout out to be saved.
For guys like Tom and me, who have been around these things for a long time it's an easy choice to choose restoration, but sadly that is not going to be the case with many new owners today. Thank you sir for making the effort to do it right.
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Just my opinion based on fact based data. Do the car as original and do it right and it could be worth in excess of $100K, make your anticipated alterations and chances are that you would have to accept much less.
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I've mentioned this on other threads so maybe you will recall my experience. I bought some front end rebuild pars for my Lincoln Mark Vlll. Not a particularly old or rare car, but I thought it would be easier to order online and just push some computer keys. I've used RA in the past, quite a few times, with no difficulty. When I received my order I realized that while the ball joints were produced by the same manufacturer, the boxes were different-one looked older then the other. Upon inspection of the parts I realized that one was a sealed unit, as original, and the other had zerk fittings. If I had been dealing with a local FLAPS I would have just taken it back for an exchange or refund, but because I wanted to get on with the project and didn't want to have to wait, so I used them. Henceforward I made sure that I used local sources before shopping for anything on line.
1941 President revival
in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne
Posted
I'm so glad that you are enjoying the process and trying to do it the right way. I'm not in the habit of responding to to these kinds of question, but think your car is special. My guess is that you will eventually want whatever pint/primer/rust that is on the car to look it's best and still retain the remainder of the old finish. Washing it followed by a rapid dry, probably compressed air, is an option. However you might consider an alcohol wash which won't add to the rust issues-just a thought.
I'm sure that you don't want the chalky look of oxidized paint-but I could be wrong. But if you want the car to look it best I think you are going to have to consider a controlled hand rub, with very find compound. The very fine, white, compound, available at auto paint stores, works good. Maguires has the same stuff, but your FLAPS may not carry it on the shelf, so it may have to be ordered. But be gentle!
While I love watching Derrick on Vice Grip Garage, stay away from his "shine-juice! but Clear coat? I guess, if it were me, I wouldn't do it but, then I don't know how good your storage is, or how the often present high humidity that you guys have back there will effect the finish either?
On my show cars I still use a good carnauba based paste wax, but some years ago I began using a polymer based stuff like Nu-Finish, on all my driver cars with original paint, both "new" and vintage. I honestly think that should be all that you will need as long as the car is garaged, the storage is good and your humidity is controlled. But then I have never tried to control rust either!