slosteve
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Posts posted by slosteve
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Your Riv is looking better than ever, bb1970. Those the same wires that you found 'previously owned'? So fine!
Steve
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On 3/26/2017 at 5:42 PM, alini said:
2) My door sill plates, are still original....nothing fancy. I cleaned them, they arent dirty but they dont POP when you look at them.
I know this is not the point of this thread Chris, but my door sills were pretty tacky looking. After cleaning them I took them over to a friends garage who had a decent polishing wheel setup and spent a little time. They now 'POP'. I was amazed.
Steve
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I recently watched a 'Restoration Garage' episode where they did some small repairs on a nice '65 Riv GS that they had restored in the past. The best part was watching them test drive it out on their country roads.
Steve
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3 hours ago, Seafoam65 said:
Rockinrividad......what is going on with your resto....
Wow! The same thought came to my mind just this morning. He may have finished it and forgot to tell us...........yeah, right.
Steve
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On 2/14/2017 at 6:03 AM, gmdbhornet said:
I wanted to pass along that I figured out why my 65 Riviera had a vibration when I would decelerate.
Thanks for letting us know the outcome. Glad you finally found it.
Steve
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34 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:
The best way to adjust them is to close a $100 bill under the window and set it up to tug out with effort. $1's and $5's are for lesser cars.
I did not know that!
Steve
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7 hours ago, RivNut said:
Just curious if one could be put behind the X member in an early Riviera.
Would probably be a lot less fab/work than rapom's setup.
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5 hours ago, RivNut said:
I'm wondering if it would also work with a 700R-4? That trans body is still bigger than a 200-4R and would be a tight fit.
The bellhousing only works with the later 4l60E that has a removable bellhousing. 700-R's have the integral housing.
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Very nice looking engine & compartment, Gord.
Steve
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OUCH! So sorry.............
Steve
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For just ONE piston. Would prefer .010" over but std. will work and larger oversize would too.
Steve Meister
Lake Havasu City, AZ
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On 12/19/2016 at 11:00 AM, Bill Stoneberg said:
If I were to do this, I would buy covers and seat buns from Clarks along with the buttons.
My drivers seat is torn and leaking rotting foam, this is the impetus for even considering this project.
My story: I bought my covers and buttons from Clarks but not the buns as I have a custom interior. I used '64 covers on my '65 as they didn't have the '65 fabric that I wanted. I did all of the 'teardown' and picture taking, had all the frames sandblasted and I painted them. Took the remainder to a trimmer as it still seemed like a daunting task to me as I tend to be a perfectionist and insecure in areas I've not had experience with. When the job was finished and installed I found the comfort level to be a disappointment; way too stiff for my taste. When I brought this up to the trimmer he blamed it on the material that Clarks uses as he considered it heavier than necessary and difficult to work with. So I took it to another experienced trimmer who initially thought it might have been the type of foam used, as I did. He took it apart and found that the foam was appropriate and agreed that the vinyl was the culprit. So I'm just accepting the 'stiffness' and adjusting. If I had done them myself I would probably still be working on them, and not knowing the diff, would probably still be trying to make them a little 'softer'.
Steve
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I have successfully restored a steering wheel before but these wheels have that chrome/black strip around the whole rim that I've no clue what to do with. Also, mine has some of the material behind the horn bar that is gone.
Steve
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I would love to get an uncracked light brown/tan steering wheel for my '65. Are all of these wheels cracked by now?
Steve
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11 hours ago, Paul K. said:
Thanks for the reply. Is it still available?
Yes. I got one for my '65 through Russ Martin in Grass Valley, CA but it was actually shipped from Carmen Faso in Tonawanda, NY.
Steve
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49 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:
What year Buick Skylark?
I believe the original Skylark wheels were on the 1953 model.
Steve
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These are the replacement clips that I found at NAPA. To the left of the bag is an original compared to the new.
Steve
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On 8/28/2016 at 9:46 PM, The Warlock said:
After I found this issue I was under pressure to make a yes/no decision right then, and I decided I did not want to take the risk.
So to clarify, does that mean you had the repair done?
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I thought this would be the best place to post my experience with making new rubber hangars. I followed Ed's lead with the 'conveyor belt' idea and bought the least amount a company in Calif. would sell it which was 4" X 5'. It doesn't have as many fabric layers as some I've seen but think it will be sufficient.
The co. which I bought this material from had a video on their website showing how easy this stuff is to cut using a razor knife & WATER. It's true. I had a small container of water that I dipped the blade in just prior to cutting and it worked quite well.
So I measured the old, dried up hangars and found them to be approx. 2"X6".
I cut a couple pieces and then needed to make some holes. My past experience has taught me that drill bits & rubber don't mix well so I found a piece of 5/16" tubing (my old fuel line) and used a file to sharpen the end a little. I also ended up placing a 5/16" bolt in the end I was hitting with the hammer to keep from disfiguring the tubing too quickly. After marking where the holes should be I placed the rubber on my vice and punched out some holes. I found that putting some other material under the area would help defray blunting the tip of my cutting 'tool'.
This is what came out of my labors. Note that my car is not intended to be a 'points' type restoration so I just used 5/16" bolts instead of rivets to attach the rubber to the hangar brackets.
When you tighten the lower hangar bolts it sandwiches the new rubber and forces it to curve in the required area.
I only had to replicate 4 of these hangars as the rear most tailpipe hangar was supplied with the system that I used. If anyone is interested, I still have 4 feet of this belting material left and would be willing to sell small pieces and ship. My new Waldron's GS system is now sturdily hung and working well, thanks to all of your sharing info with the group.
Steve
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2 minutes ago, smithbrother said:
Dakota HAS lens colors that work well in the sunlight.
My first setup was with each gauge a different color lens, some WERE hard to read in sun, so picked a color that works, and I IS A HAPPY CAMPER.
Dale in Indy
Mine are the blueish ones. What color worked for you?
Steve
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On 8/25/2016 at 0:30 PM, Schmiddy said:
Looks good, but I don't think I would like to implement such digital gauges into my Riv, I think its not the spirit of 1965! ???
Eric, I believe they are talking about the VHX series analog style gauges (pictured). I've used both types in cars I've built and they are good quality piece's. The problem I have found with the digital is they are difficult to see when daylight comes from a 'difficult' angle. The VHX series are always easy to read and well illuminated.
Steve
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On 7/12/2016 at 0:16 PM, Seafoam65 said:
Glass installers will not use butyl tape....... One of the things I see on old cars all the time at car shows is horrible looking windshields due to glip glop oozing out all around the back side of the windshield that ruins the looks of the whole car.
I would think that if you still wanted to use a glass man you could tell him you want to use the tape. IMHO.
I used butyl tape on my rear window and it still oozed out the edges, showing beyond the stainless trim. It looks nasty and I intend to clean it up but that stuff is NASTY. Sticks to everything. I agree with everyone else in that you've already done the hard stuff. Good Luck.
Steve
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That seller and I have not been able to reach an agreement on worth.
Steve
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Thanks, Bill
To Redline or not to Redline
in Buick Riviera
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IF it were mine I would go with whitewalls. To me, they add class to an already classy black ride.
Also, no on the stainless door guards.
Steve