ghaskett
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Posts posted by ghaskett
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So, back to my original question, more or less. Has anyone used the Fatman modified uprights, with your own spindles to get a 2" lowering job in front?
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Well, my '56 had 3" Jamco lowering coils front and rear and there is plenty of ground clearance. But by putting in Fatman uprights and going from the 3 inch coils to 1 inch coils in front.. I will be lowered about the same, but will have 2 more inches within the suspension and therefore not pounding the rubber stops flat.
The problem with JAMCO is JAMCO. I ordered coils and shocks that were suppose to be specifically for lowered cars, blah,blah,blah!! Well, the coils fit, but the shocks were merely something they grabbed off the shelf. They had the wrong pin size, wrong bolt pattern etc. It also took about a month to get the refund. Ironically, I had read on a forum elsewhere where people had similar complaints. You'd think I would have heeded those complaints, but Oh NO!!
The Fatman set up is uprights only. You have to use your stock spindle. They are not dropped spindles like you'd expect and get with advertised " Dropped Spindles." Fatman..to their credit..do not advertise them as dropped spindles.
If I put in the Fatman along with one inch lowered coils, that will drop her 3-3 1/2 inchs. Fatman says the upright will drop her 2 1/2" and , of course we'll tinker with new front coils to get a nice stance between 3-4 inches in front and the current 3 at the rear.
Back to the JAMCO coils. The front are okay, stiff with no lean. But the rear 3" lowered coils are another story. They did lower the car, but the rearend ride, while not jarring was not stiff enough to keep people in the back seat from bouncing off the roof. Hit a rolling bump and the rear really took an upward hop.
I cured the rearend problem by putting in a complete Jaguar XJS independent rear suspension with posi. The difference was night and day.
Lastly, I used 6 x 15 rims with 215 x 15 x 75's in front. No rub. For the rear we put 8 x 15 and wider tires, but same diameter as 225x15x75's
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Has anyone used Fatman lowered uprights on their 50's era Buick. I have a 56 Special with JAMCO front lowered coils, but am leaning to the Fatman idea. Thanks.
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3 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:
Yes. there are several bolts under the inner cover which actually hold the heater core unit to the cowl.
Thanks again. Got her out. Your photos helped too.
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2 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:
Yes. Although if the canvass duct tubes stay in place, I'd leave them alone in order to avoid damaging them. But the HVAC distribution housing has to come off.
I do have a question. Are there more screws/bolts to deal with after removing the inner cover? Thanks.
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On 1/27/2014 at 7:42 AM, JohnD1956 said:
Keep in mind that you may not have to remove the fender. The core cover is attached with bolts that are accessed behind the kick panel inside the car. And if you remove the fan motor from the vent housing under the hood, you may be able to lift the entire heater core package up and out of the fender well from under the hood. I was able to do so with plenty of room on my Super. I do not know if there is sufficient room on the smaller body car.
To reinstall, I filled the area below the core package with a old blanket so that the core package could rest on that in close proximity to its mounting area. That held it close enough and I could then manuver the unit to get the bolts started. I did remove the blanket before tightening everything up just to be sure I could get it out.
John, do I need to remove the heater/defroster inner housing with the ducts in order to the bolts holding the core housing? Thanks.
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Thanks. Life is good
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So, do you know how they separated the single pulley from the dual pulley? I haven't tore into it yet and don't know how they are connected. If pressed on, I'll just toss into the oven at 400 degrees for five minutes, while the wife is away.
Thanking you in advance.
George -
Thanks. It looks like they did it for the 401 too. Thanks.
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Is the 3 belt pulley for 401/425 with AC a two piece outfit. Is a single pulley pressed to the two belt pulley?
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18 minutes ago, Beemon said:
Sorry for the confusion! I've only ever seen two types of headers for the late Nailhead, block huggers and rear exit. I think a rear exit header would maybe fit but I'm not sure what you're currently running. Best of luck to you, sorry for the useless information (may help future 322 guys, tho
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No worries and no confusion. I appreciate the input. I especially like your take on welding her up. I'm looking into it. Thanks again.
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6 hours ago, Beemon said:
The ports are different from 322. The 264/322 are round ports and the 364/401/425 are square. You would have to find some header flanges and make your own or modify existing but cutting the flange off and adding a 322 flange. If you have single exhaust, find a driver side dual exhaust manifold and move the driver side single exhaust to the passenger side. Pretty much all we have for "original" headers. The driver single exhaust and driver dual exhaust manifolds are like traditional Y pipe headers together and you eliminate the bulky thermostatic controller on the stock passenger side exhaust manifold.
Thanks. Actually I have a 401 in my 56. I put driver side header from 59-60 engine on and it fits fine, with the exception that it is right up to the steering box and the heat could affect the box seals. The stock 65 Riviera exhaust won't work in the 56 because its outlet flange would end up somewhere inside the dash. The '65 Riviera passenger side header fits just fine. A young friend got around the driver side issue by simply whacking out the stock 56 crossmember and putting in a complete Jaguar IFS with discs, modern ball joints and rack and pinion. I'd have him do it to mine, but he's in law school for the time being.
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Anyone here ever stuff a 401/425 into a '56 Special. If so, what driver side exhaust header did you use to clear the steering box?
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21 minutes ago, Beemon said:
What compelled you to go with a Jag rear? Would never have thought independent rear end. What years?
I actually had the pumpkin and C-10 trailing arm set up, was ready to install, but after talking with my friend in Amboy...this became the way to go for me.
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Just now, Beemon said:
What compelled you to go with a Jag rear? Would never have thought independent rear end. What years?
A friend down in Amboy, WA ( I live in Union at south end of Hood Canal) had put one in his 56 Convertible. He also put a Jag front end in his, but time and money was against me, so we put a rearend in my 56. The reason was mainly..having four tires always planted on the road. As you can see, it also has rear inboard discs. Later versions have outboard discs, but I like the look of the inboards.This particular set up has factory posi and Dana gears. And, it comes in its own cradle.
JAG XJS rearends from around 1976-1993 are very popular and if you do some research, you'll see that they generally had a ratio of about 2:88 up to 3:54. Mine is 3:30 and hooked up to a '65 TH400 and 401. I suppose that I could have put in a 700R4, for example, but an adaptor was $700...a deal killer for me. These were hooked up to V-12 engines and are pretty stout. The engines weren't.. and I think blown engines meant lots of Jag parts cars from that era..thus available rearends.
The difference in ride control was night and day.-
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You can go with putting 61/62 3rd member in and the go with Early Chev C-10 trailing arms. They go on axle housing with U bolts. If you get the C-10 cross member, remove the C-10 arm hook ups, weld them to an angle steel crossmember and you are good to go, except you'll want to hook up a modern 700R4 or 2004R. The adaptor runs about $700 which is considerably more than C-10 arms and a big Buick pumpkin.
I'm running a complete Jaguar XJS independent rear suspension in my 56. It's light years ahead of the solid axle for handling and affordable. Both Buicks pictured( Mine is the hdtp) have the Jag rear ends. Mine has a dual quad "65 Nailhead and TH400. The convertible also has a complete Jag front suspension and a massive Corvette LS engine and tranny.
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Thanks for the info.
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I put a 401 and '65 Turbo 400 switch pitch in my '56. I don't have the stock switch pitch kickdown items that mount on the carb and throttle linkage. Is there a less clunky looking after market electric set up that will work. I know Lokar makes an electric kickdown, but don't know if it will work on the 65-66 Turbo 400.
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I have parts of the original switch that were attached to carb/manifold. The wires were cut. Not sure what goes where. I believe the orange and black went to the two prong, but finding a good wiring schematic has been limited for the time being. I'd prefer a carb actuated system vs a toggle switch. Thanks for the inquiry.
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I picked up a '65 Riviera with 401 and turbo400 switch pitch. Problem is that the switch pitch controls mounted by the carb are missing. Is there a recommended after market gizmo that will work in its place. Are there any other alternatives? Thanks.
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I might add that we got the pieces to fit after much drilling, reaming and hogging out.
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So, if you should want to put a 401 in your '56 Buick, you may like this.
Ordered 53-56 Engine Mounts #002703 from Classic Motor World Inc & Classic Buicks, Dallas, Oregon. Didn't fit. You'd think someone would have checked them out before charging $89 plus $21 shipping. We were across the Columbia River from them and couldn't go check them out or pick them up. They had to be mailed out, period!! So we lost about 2 1/2 days waiting for them to get across the river.
Ordered special adaptor plate from Centerville Auto Repair & Nailhead Buick, Grass Valley, California. More than $50 for a flat piece of steel with some holes punched/threaded in it. Guess what? Didn't fit.
Nothing like being part of a captive audience for old Buick parts retailers.
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Opened up 65 Riv 401 and the eccentric was missing. It was using a loud electric fuel pump. I've heard that you leave the eccentric on, even if using electric pump. Is there going to be a problem?
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Thanks for the info. At the same time I was seeing your reply, a friend suggested a Chevy 605, which I've seen also listed as 605-500. I don't know if they're the same. Again, thanks for the info.
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1965 Riviera eccentric cam pin
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Does 1965 401/425 eccentric require a keeper pin, as found on earlier engines. The eccentric has a nipple that fits a hole on the cam gear. It also has a slot, that too me, means a key would fit there. I have also been told that, that nipple on the eccentric is all I need. Any advice? Thanks.