Moose2

I forgot; yes I'm a member of ROA and I appreciate the tech tip article you mention. I'll snoop my back-issues for it. Mike

Yeah I know the 425 nailhead is correct for my 64. I was just hoping the 455 would be an easy swap, especially because I have a freshly rebuilt T400 transmission sitting on my garage floor, and I doubt if any year of nailhead would bolt to that trans, would it?? I was hoping I could stay away from the old slim jim transmission; I heard they were a bear to rebuild. I'll steer clear of the 455 though. Do ALL of the nailheads through 69 bolt into my 64, and is the TH400 (?) transmission used with the later ones easier to rebuild than the old slim jim?? Thanks again, and please be patient with me, I'm pretty new to the Buicks and their applications/limitations.

My 64 Riviera is a project car I bought without an engine or trans and I don't trust any of the pictures I've seen on-line to tell me definitively whether the nailhead engine that would be correct for my car has the oil sump well at the rear of the oil pan or if it is located somewhat in the center of the pan. Some pics of oil pans for nailheads show the sump well at the rear, but that doesn't seem like it would clear the steering linkage in my Riv. I stumbled across a Buick 455 someone bolted into a 67 Riviera and it looks like it might bolt into my 64. The car is sitting on its belly so I can't really get a good look at the underside of it, but it seems like the steering linkage is similar to my 64 (runs parallel to the frame crossmember and about 6-8 inches rearward from the crossmember). The pan on the 455 has the sump well located sort of in the center of the pan. Does anybody know if the 455 would bolt into my 64 without having to modify my steering linkage?? I'm just looking for a bolt-in that won't require screwing with the chassis. Feedback would be mucho appreciated!!

Thanks guys, keep me posted on the epoxy repairs please, and Ed; I heard there were reproduction bars on the market. How do I get ahold of the folks that are (were?) doing the reproductions???

Looking for a good or repro horn bar for my factory wood (fake) steering wheel. Like looking for a needle in a haystack but can anyone help? I have the original horn bar and both bars are broken in the usual place at the hub. Plan B would be to have mine rebuilt but I don't know if that's possible with pot-metal. Anybody?

Hi Paul, I was planning to go to French Lake, but I want a list of stuff in addition to wheels, and I ended up calling Rohner's in Willmar and it sounded like they had more of what I was looking for. Besides, Melvin has always been pretty patient with me when I stumble in the front gate.........

Thank you a ton Ed. Your detailed response has really helped me!! I was asking because I knew I was over my head and I realized when I looked at the wheels on my Riv that they weren't the same as other GM wheels I have eyeballed over the years. My front wheels have what appears to be aluminum spacers laid on the hubs and I had no idea if they belong on a 64 Riviera or if they were put on to try to get the wheels to fit. I'll try to take a couple of pictures to send you in return for your kindness. It may take a while, by Riv is about 76 miles from the house and I get to it about every other weekend. More soon. Of the four wheels that were on the car when I bought it, they were obviously not a set, and I thought the smartest way to get it sorted out would be to simply start over and get four wheels that would be correct for the car.

I'm new at this; just bought a '64 Riviera and I need wheels. I'm assuming stock wheels are 15" and I'm also assuming the wheels from any full-size Buick will fit my Riv. I'll be snooping the local boneyards and I need to know if my assumptions are correct?? I'd also like to know if ANY full-size GM car will provide the identical wheels, or do I need to stick with just Buick?? Thanks for helping!

Hey guys, I found a solution to the problem. The gearbox was binding up because the keep plug on the back end of the worm gear was broken and missing and it allowed the worm gear to travel. I found a nylon plug that I sized to fit and replace the original plug and now it seems to travel freely in both directions. Time will tell if the nylon plug wears or works out of the threaded plug hole, but for now, I've got a non-stock fix for the problem. I also dis-assembled the transmission and cleaned/re-lubed it. It needed it; the grease in it was 45 years old and dry and crusted. The gears seemed to be in good condition and I'm very glad I tore it down and re-lubed it. Highly recommend that to anyone doing maintenance on their power seats!!!

Thanks for the info on the transmission lube. I'm pretty certain my problem is with the gearbox driven by the transmission. I've completely removed the gearbox from the seat track assembly, and it will rotate smoothly in one direction but it locks up when I try to rotate it in the other direction. Before I took out the power seat assembly, I could hear the electric motor try to move the seat; it would click and the motor would strain when I tried to move the seat forward, and it would work OK when I tried to move the seat back. I inspected the track and it was not binding. When I took out the gearbox, it gave me the same symptoms I was observing when the seat was "intact" in the car. It moves in one direction and binds up in the other direction. It appears that the gearbox was not designed to be opened for servicing, so I'm looking for your feedback whether there is a source for new or rebuilt gearboxes? I'd also like to know if the gearboxes were universal to several GM cars over a period of several years of manufacture?? Your feedback is much appreciated; I'm a little lost on this......

I'd like a list also. mfoley@kmidiagnostics.com. I'm looking for the wood-grained plastic dash piece that the radio mounts through. Also looking for power bucket seat parts..... Thanks!

Ouch on the OPGI package tray...... I just ordered one from Cars, Inc. and they told me it will be shipped direct from the factory. Now you've got me wondering if OPGI uses the same source as Cars Inc. Has anybody purchased a package tray from Cars Inc??

I have questions about my power seat mechanism for the driver's bucket on my '64 Riviera. The gear box driven by the transmission cable to move the seat backwards/forwards needs to be rebuilt or replaced and I have no clue where to go. I'm very sure its the gear box because I've disassembled the seat from the lower bracket/drive assembly, and I've taken the lower bracket assembly (complete) out of the car. I've disconnected the cable that drives the gearbox and I can move the seat mount smoothly back to the limit of the assembly by hand, but it will not move forward without immediately binding. I have carefully checked all parts of the physical track sliders to see if they are binding; they aren't. I could sure use advise because I'm an old barnyard mechanic and I miss things. But assuming I need the gearbox for the front/back track replaced, where do I look? Ebay has nothing I can find. Unless somebody tells me otherwise, I would guess that if the front/back gearbox is shot, the up/down gearbox can't be far behind and I'd be smart to do them both??? Also, I've been reading that it is useful to clean and re-lube the transmission assembly and I intend to do that. I have no idea what to lube it with and would use generic moly grease unless there is a better product?? Also, what general comments or cautions do I need to know before I tear into the transmission unit? All help and comments gratefully accepted!!!!:cool:

Thanks for the tip! Its not the motor that's shot, its the little gear box that mates from the driven end of the cable to the toothed bar on the on the bottom bracket that bolts to the floor of the car. I've disconnected the cable and the gear box will work moving the seat to the rear when I turn the cable connection manually, but it will not move forward. Somebody removed the threaded keeper cap at the back of the gearbox and the worm pushes part way out of the carrier. when I force the worm to stay mated it still won't work, just binds up. I blew DW40 through the assembly extensively and the gearbox still works smoothly and correctly moving the seat to the rear, but binds strongly when I try to move the seat forward. I've taken the seat off and removed the complete bottom assembly from the car. There isn't anything left to bind up except the gearbox. I think......... BTW, I read an earlier thread about the GM power seat mechanism and they spoke about cleaning and re-lubing the transmission. I intend to do that but the thread did not say what to lube the transmission with. Do I just use a generic moly grease or should I use something like a 75-90 gear lube?? I'm inclined to use the moly grease but I'm a barnyard mechanic and don't trust my judgement!!!

Need help! My '64 Riviera has a 4-way power bucket driver's seat and the front/back gear box (not the transmission) is shot. Where can I get a replacement gear box or where can I get mine rebuilt?? Anybody?? Also, I'm a little mysified (actually a lot mystified) by the articulation of the up/down linkage on the seat track. At the front of the seat track there is only a pivot pin, with no possible way for the seat to "spread" up from the track while at the rear of the track it is hinged and it appears that only the back of the seat will actually raise up when the motor is actuated. I flunked physics, but what am I missing here???? Isn't the front of the seat supposed to move up/down along with the back? Thanks for any insight folks!!