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About davidyavidy

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  • Birthday 01/04/1952

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  1. Got new bulb from NAPA (couldn't find anyone else who had it) under part # 2331N. Two problems: 1) base of bulb didn't go deep enough into the socket to make contact with the spring loaded buttons, so I made spacers to bring the socket closer to the bulb to make contact. Everything seemed to be OK when I checked continuity. I applied power to the bulb and blew out the filaments which brings me to 2) bulb is rated at 5.9/6.2 volts. Had the NAPA guys told me it was a 6v bulb I wouldn't have bought two at $8 each. Question: Where can I get a 12v equivalent of the 2331N NAPA bulb?
  2. Newbie here. Trying to help a friend tighten his loose horn ring so it operates the horn from all directions. Currently it only works when you depress the ring on the top side. I don't see any hardware for removal and I can't get the small centerpiece to pop out as it's covered on both sides by small extensions emanating inward from the horn ring side arms. Youtube was worthless. How do I get the ring off?
  3. I'm looking for the inner windshield trim for my friend's '51. I contacted Winter Lane @ nospartsfromthepast.com but he does not have them. I've also looked at Jim Carter, LMC Trucks, Bow Tie Bits, Filling Station, Chevs of the 40's, Classic Parts of America, Brother's Trucks, NPD, and Eckler's. Most offer the outer SS trim, but not the inner trim. Any ideas of where to get these things? Dave Johnson Hobe Sound, FL
  4. To rsb, Beltfed, ply33, and MORRISGAUGE: Thank you all for your helpful information, but I finally figured out a solution. The "universal" 240 ohm sending unit was the trick with some modifications. The rheostat mechanism bolted to the stem, so I just flip-flopped it 180 degrees, and now the gauge reads correctly: float up gauge full, float down gauge empty. The other modification was to turn the stem 90 degrees from its original position. The stem is two piece for vertical adjustment to match the tank depth. I removed the lower portion (where the rheostat is fastened to) from the upper porti
  5. To rsb, Beltfed, ply33, and MORRISGAUGE: Thank you for your responses. According to the shop manual, the gauge is the dual coil type. I think I may have extra parts around including a gauge. I'll try the wire reversal on that one to see what happens. If I sacrifice it, so be it. Guess I'll need to go to an electronics store and purchase one or more variable resistors for testing. Not sure when I'll do this as I'm involved with several other large projects at the moment, but will try to keep all informed as to what I end up with. Thanks again. To Beltfed: I wondered about reversing the wires
  6. I'm a novice. From what I've read, the fuel gauge on this vehicle is a 30 ohm circuit requiring a 30 ohm sending unit. I installed one, but the gauge needle only moves about the width of the needle near the empty hash mark when the float is moved from one end of its travel to the other. I had a universal sending unit on the shelf that is 240 ohm resistance, and when hooking it up to the gauge, the needle works perfectly. At one end of the float's travel the needle is on the empty hash mark, at the other end the needle is just above the full hash mark. Perfect, except the gauge reads opposite o
  7. A friend has two bare frames he wants to build into drivers. Both have tubular shock mounts which puts them @ 1950 or newer. The difference I'm seeing is in how the levers which operate the e-brake cables are mounted to the cross shaft. One has small teeth allowing the levers to be placed in several positions a few degrees from each other. The other one which was just purchased as a 1953 chassis has two flats which means the levers can be placed in only one position that will work (the other position would put the levers straight up which wouldn't work). Does anyone know when this change took
  8. Bob Call: Got all my questions answered when I came in contact with a place called Classic Auto Air, Tampa, FL. Thanks so much for your willingness to help. davidyavidy (Dave)
  9. To pontiac1953: I contacted Classic Auto Air in Tampa, FL, who told me that I have a very rare factory conversion from the A5 to the A6. Most A6 aftermarket compressors I looked at had a square flange located just behind the pulley. The one I'm dealing with has a round flange which I've been told is a genuine GM replacement, so it looks like I'll need to get that compressor rebuilt so it will match up to the mounting brackets currently on the engine. Also, when the man at Classic Auto Air described the dryer he thought should be on the vehicle, the description was a perfect match to what I had
  10. pontiac1953: Is the A5 long and narrow like the A6, or would it be more like what is found on the 1957 Series 62 convertible? (My friend also owns one of these) I'm not familiar with the A5. Also, the compressor does have a remanufactured sticker on it, and the line taps are of the R134a style, so this must have had a conversion done on it before my friend bought it some 8-9 years ago. Also, the mounting brackets look stock, not aftermarket. Thank you for the information. Dave
  11. None of the local auto parts stores (NAPA, Advanced, etc) even list a compressor for this vehicle. Who would be a good source for this style compressor? Dave
  12. Thanks for the link Dave, I'll go there and see what kind of help I can come up with. Dave
  13. Thank you so much Al, I will definitely give that a try before attempting to remove the tank. Dave
  14. To jpage: Thank you for this information. It does sound like a LOT of work. I'll check out MAC's to see what they have to offer for gas tanks. Would Dennis Carpenter or Bob Drake deal with this stuff? Dave
  15. To Dave Mellor: Thank you for the suggestion. I haven't heard of this name as I'm not into Model A's, just helping out a friend. What is the particular website I should go to? Dave
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