Jump to content

davidyavidy

Members
  • Posts

    55
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by davidyavidy

  1. How does one contact the administrators at this forum? I had registered with a username and password awhile back but now they want an email address and password. My password with my username will not work with my email. Google says I can't use that email because it already exists somewhere else. I used a different email but couldn't exit out of the forum to retrieve the security code they sent unless I exited the forum. Went to my alternate email but their email with seurity code wasn't there. Went back to the forum and tried to re-register but my original email, which google says I can't use, kept popping up in the registration box. Not being a computer guy I spent over half an hour trying this and that to no avail. ??????????
  2. Anyone know of a distributor rebuilding service for this vehicle? Tried going to fordforums.com with this question but login rules must have changed since I was on about two years ago. They no longer want a user name, only an email address, which means my password is no longer valid. Tried a different email but google said that account already exists, so can't use it. What a nightmare. How does one contact the fordforums.com management team? Sorry, not a computer guy.
  3. Got new bulb from NAPA (couldn't find anyone else who had it) under part # 2331N. Two problems: 1) base of bulb didn't go deep enough into the socket to make contact with the spring loaded buttons, so I made spacers to bring the socket closer to the bulb to make contact. Everything seemed to be OK when I checked continuity. I applied power to the bulb and blew out the filaments which brings me to 2) bulb is rated at 5.9/6.2 volts. Had the NAPA guys told me it was a 6v bulb I wouldn't have bought two at $8 each. Question: Where can I get a 12v equivalent of the 2331N NAPA bulb?
  4. Newbie here. Trying to help a friend tighten his loose horn ring so it operates the horn from all directions. Currently it only works when you depress the ring on the top side. I don't see any hardware for removal and I can't get the small centerpiece to pop out as it's covered on both sides by small extensions emanating inward from the horn ring side arms. Youtube was worthless. How do I get the ring off?
  5. I'm looking for the inner windshield trim for my friend's '51. I contacted Winter Lane @ nospartsfromthepast.com but he does not have them. I've also looked at Jim Carter, LMC Trucks, Bow Tie Bits, Filling Station, Chevs of the 40's, Classic Parts of America, Brother's Trucks, NPD, and Eckler's. Most offer the outer SS trim, but not the inner trim. Any ideas of where to get these things? Dave Johnson Hobe Sound, FL
  6. To rsb, Beltfed, ply33, and MORRISGAUGE: Thank you all for your helpful information, but I finally figured out a solution. The "universal" 240 ohm sending unit was the trick with some modifications. The rheostat mechanism bolted to the stem, so I just flip-flopped it 180 degrees, and now the gauge reads correctly: float up gauge full, float down gauge empty. The other modification was to turn the stem 90 degrees from its original position. The stem is two piece for vertical adjustment to match the tank depth. I removed the lower portion (where the rheostat is fastened to) from the upper portion and installed a small corner brace between the two stem halves. I then matched the stem length and float rod length to the original sending unit. It's now installed and works great. What puzzles me to no end is why the 240 ohm unit works while the 30 ohm unit does not. My friend has a second truck in the wings but wants to go to 12v on that one. I'll have to pay closer attention to everything next time around. Thanks again everyone, Dave
  7. To rsb, Beltfed, ply33, and MORRISGAUGE: Thank you for your responses. According to the shop manual, the gauge is the dual coil type. I think I may have extra parts around including a gauge. I'll try the wire reversal on that one to see what happens. If I sacrifice it, so be it. Guess I'll need to go to an electronics store and purchase one or more variable resistors for testing. Not sure when I'll do this as I'm involved with several other large projects at the moment, but will try to keep all informed as to what I end up with. Thanks again. To Beltfed: I wondered about reversing the wires on the gauge, not the sending unit. Dave
  8. I'm a novice. From what I've read, the fuel gauge on this vehicle is a 30 ohm circuit requiring a 30 ohm sending unit. I installed one, but the gauge needle only moves about the width of the needle near the empty hash mark when the float is moved from one end of its travel to the other. I had a universal sending unit on the shelf that is 240 ohm resistance, and when hooking it up to the gauge, the needle works perfectly. At one end of the float's travel the needle is on the empty hash mark, at the other end the needle is just above the full hash mark. Perfect, except the gauge reads opposite of the floats position. When the float is up, the gauge reads empty, when the float is down, the gauge reads full. What I need is a sending unit that's wired opposite of the one I have, OR reverse the wires on the back of the gauge. If I reverse the wires on the back of the gauge, will I damage the gauge? That is the question. Someone please help if you can. Thank you. Dave P.S. I've heard that Ford wires their fuel system opposite of Chevrolet. On one make, grounding the sending unit wire coming from the gauge will peg the needle empty while the other make will peg the needle full. Can't remember which is which, but since I have a Chevrolet, would installing a Ford unit remedy the problem?
  9. A friend has two bare frames he wants to build into drivers. Both have tubular shock mounts which puts them @ 1950 or newer. The difference I'm seeing is in how the levers which operate the e-brake cables are mounted to the cross shaft. One has small teeth allowing the levers to be placed in several positions a few degrees from each other. The other one which was just purchased as a 1953 chassis has two flats which means the levers can be placed in only one position that will work (the other position would put the levers straight up which wouldn't work). Does anyone know when this change took place so I can more closely identify the year of the other chassis which uses the little teeth on the cross shaft? Thank you. Dave
  10. Bob Call: Got all my questions answered when I came in contact with a place called Classic Auto Air, Tampa, FL. Thanks so much for your willingness to help. davidyavidy (Dave)
  11. To pontiac1953: I contacted Classic Auto Air in Tampa, FL, who told me that I have a very rare factory conversion from the A5 to the A6. Most A6 aftermarket compressors I looked at had a square flange located just behind the pulley. The one I'm dealing with has a round flange which I've been told is a genuine GM replacement, so it looks like I'll need to get that compressor rebuilt so it will match up to the mounting brackets currently on the engine. Also, when the man at Classic Auto Air described the dryer he thought should be on the vehicle, the description was a perfect match to what I had, meaning that the dryer was also very rare in its configuration and would also need to be sent in with the compressor for rebuilding. It looks like I've found the answer to my problem, a bit pricey perhaps, but at least we can get this car up and running again. Thank you so much for your helpful information. davidyavidy (Dave)
  12. pontiac1953: Is the A5 long and narrow like the A6, or would it be more like what is found on the 1957 Series 62 convertible? (My friend also owns one of these) I'm not familiar with the A5. Also, the compressor does have a remanufactured sticker on it, and the line taps are of the R134a style, so this must have had a conversion done on it before my friend bought it some 8-9 years ago. Also, the mounting brackets look stock, not aftermarket. Thank you for the information. Dave
  13. None of the local auto parts stores (NAPA, Advanced, etc) even list a compressor for this vehicle. Who would be a good source for this style compressor? Dave
  14. Thanks for the link Dave, I'll go there and see what kind of help I can come up with. Dave
  15. Thank you so much Al, I will definitely give that a try before attempting to remove the tank. Dave
  16. To jpage: Thank you for this information. It does sound like a LOT of work. I'll check out MAC's to see what they have to offer for gas tanks. Would Dennis Carpenter or Bob Drake deal with this stuff? Dave
  17. To Dave Mellor: Thank you for the suggestion. I haven't heard of this name as I'm not into Model A's, just helping out a friend. What is the particular website I should go to? Dave
  18. To Alfre: Is there any particular brand of Seal All that you prefer? Dave
  19. I'm helping a friend try to get his car going after about 4 years of sitting idle. When working on the fuel system, we discovered the tank has a crack about 3" from the fuel petcock. Is there any product out there that would seal the tank from the outside? If not, I'll have to remove the tank. It looks like a BIG job. How difficult is it to remove the fuel tank in one of these? Does the cowl have to be dismantled? Never done one before, please help. Dave P.S. Does it matter that the car is a Right Hand Drive from Argentina?
  20. I helped a neighbor install a new control valve recently, but the vehicle seems to have very little assist. I checked pump pressure at the pump - it was 50-75 psi at idle, 275-300 while attempting to turn the steering wheel. I didn't go full lock to see what that pressure was as my gauge is meant for automatic transmissions and only goes to 300 psi. I called a local rebuilder who said pressures should be in the 600+ psi range. Does anyone know what the pressures for this vehicle should be? It has a 289 w/automatic if that makes any difference. Thanks for any help. Dave
  21. Thank you for the info. I sent TR Classics LLC an email today, hope they can help. Dave
  22. Helping a friend on a 1963 Chevy II convertible. It has an aftermarket air cleaner now, but would like to put a stock air cleaner on its 283 2bbl Rochester carb. I cannot seem to find anyone who offers 2bbl air cleaner assemblies. Everything seems to be for 4bbl carbs with 5 1/8 neck opening. I've tried Classic Industries, NPD, Danchuck, Ecklers, Chevy2Only, GMClassics, East Coast Chevy, O'Reilly, Jegs, Summit, and even CTC Auto Ranch. Nobody has anything for a 2bbl. Any suggestions? Help! Dave
  23. To 19tom40: The correct sending units were purchased from NPD and installed. Now the temp gauge reads cold all the time even when fully warmed up. The owner did show me an old worn out copy of the shop manual, and I did find a picture of the two sending units showing their relationship to the gauge. However, the drawing simply shows a wire going from the single contact sender to one of the two contacts on the two contact sender, and another wire going from the other contact on the two contact sender to the gauge. What the manual does not specify is which contact are each of the two wires going to. Does it make any difference which wire goes to the short terminal, and which wire goes to the long terminal of the two terminal contact?
  24. I didn't see any clubs for the Ford truck, so was wondering if the wiring for the temperature sender units on the flathead V8 are the same for car & truck. An acquaintance just bought a '49 Ford F-1 pickup with flathead V8. It has 6v positive ground, and the temp gauge reads past the "H" when fully warmed up. A mechanical gauge was installed without disturbing the wiring to the two sender units and read only 180 degrees while the dash gauge was pegged past the "H". So we know it isn't running hot. When looking up sender units at NPD (and others), we noticed two senders; one with two spade type contacts and one with only one contact, but not spade type. Both sender units in this truck are of the two spade type. The passenger sender has both spade terminals utilized, the driver side sender only one. The passenger sender has one heavy wire and one lighter wire going to it. The driver side sender has one heavy wire attached. Both senders have one long and one short spade terminal, and both senders have the heavy wire going to the longer terminal. The lighter wire goes to the shorter terminal on the passenger side sender. Is the heavy wire attached to the longer terminal of both senders the same wire? Is having the same sender on both sides of the engine the problem here? Why are there two senders and only one dash gauge? If a sender or water pump failed on one side of the engine, how would you know with only one gauge giving you a read out? I have neither a wiring schematic nor a shop manual for this vehicle, so not sure if wires are going to the correct terminals or not. Is there anyone out there who knows about these senders (and corresponding wiring) and might be able to shed some light on this subject for someone who has no experience with Ford flatheads? Dave Hobe Sound, FL
  25. To 65Starfire: The owner of the '58 Mark III hasn't ok'd spending the funds yet, so haven't ordered anything from NAPA yet. Thanks for the Then & Now suggestion. I'll contact them and see what they have to say. I've had the pump completely disassembled, and the components don't look worn at all as the owner says he replaced the pump about a year ago. The problem seems to be lack of stroke length. On the bench, the pump provides good vacuum and pressure, but on the vehicle both are very poor. There seems to be some play between the actuator arm and the diaphragm pull rod even though the parts don't seem worn at all. The push rod is the correct 4 7/8" length and the eccentric has about a 3/8" lift. The problem is that about one third of the lift is used just to take up the slack before the diaphragm even starts moving. If I could install a slightly longer rod to take up the slack, maybe all would be well. This is what I'll share with Then & Now and see what they suggest. Keep you posted. David A. Johnson
×
×
  • Create New...