JP75

Well it looks like I may end up having to take the block and have it bored. The cylinders looked okay but, after a few seconds with a flex hone and every thing changed. With the glaze gone defects may as well be lit up with neon everything shows up. In at least 4 cylinders I have found vertical scratches. They are all different but, I can feel all of them with my finger nail some defiantly more than others. I have been doing some reading and some people say if it was running well before the tear down run a flex hone through it knock the glaze off install new rings and enjoy it. However on the other hand which I am leaning toward is get it bored to remove the scratches which means new pistons. However if it will not effect anything I think I might be able to live with it. This is were I am going to have to rely on the professionals. I tried to take a few pictures of scratches take a look and give me your honest opinion. While I have been slowed down with engine work I started removing the rear body brace. Fixing this part was the whole reason I decided to take the body off. I could not figure out how to remove it with the body on the frame. Now I know I made the correct decision this thing put up a good fight but, I finally won. If I had left it along at least it would not have held any more water it is fairly well ventilated. On a different note does any body know the difference in these to parts. I have a spare head and I had it out and I noticed my head has GM1 and the spare head has a GM2 on it. Does any body know what this means? Both of them are off of a 1953 however the spare head was off a two door if that makes any difference. Paul - It was Gordon's that did my radiator. From what I can see you are in the Winston Salem area do you have a good local machine shop to recommend?

Don Will the etched finger print hurt anything in terms of durability?

Hi again thanks for the quick responses but, I want to make sure we are all on the same page. These are rod bearings not ball bearings and the old finger print is etched into the bearing and not just a print like on glass. supposedly the oils on your skin mark the surface if left to sit.

Hi, I have an opportunity to purchase a set of NORS rod bearings but, after speaking with the seller I am unsure if they are sound parts. (I can get new but, I prefer period parts if available) Some of the bearings have self wear very fine micro scratches from the cardboard box tabs that laid on the bearing for years. Also 1 bearing has a finger print. I have read this could happen on old bearings and I am guessing this one was touched years ago and then put away. My question is should I pass on these parts or are these cosmetic issues that will not cause any problems? I have been able to find a little bit of information on how the finger print issue is created but, none of the articles state if the bearings were compromised if this happens and no information about what appears to be shelf wear from the cardboard box. Thanks for your help.

It looks like progress might start to slow down a little while funds are built back up. I originally started tearing down my engine to do a good cleaning and painting and it has turned into a full rebuild. I found a machine shop near my work to take the crank. Hopefully I will get it back next week. When I dropped it off the owner thought the crank was in good shape and if it measured in spec he thinks a polishing will be all it needs and if it does need to be ground it will be minimal. Dad decided for my birthday he was going to have my radiator boiled out and tested while we were on vacation. He took it to the same guy who did his model A radiator over the winter and ended up having the core replaced. The guy said it was clogged so bad it would never clean out enough to not cause problems and recommended a new core. It has the original upper and lower tanks and sides attached to a new core. He put on a new top neck, overflow tube (my original had rust holes) and a new drain. The radiator man said this core is the same as the original but has more rods then the original so it should cool as good as if not better than the original. I hope he is right so far on appearance along he did a good job. [ATTACH=CONFIG]259946[/ATTACH] Because the radiator was so clogged I thought I would remove all the freeze plugs and dig around with some stiff wire and see how much rust I could get out. I kept digging and digging and decided I had to be more aggressive. I drug out the pressure washer and now I have a rust colored drive way. There were pockets of rust, scale and rust flakes over an inch deep and the drain plug on the side of the block that is a few inches lower then the main water chamber was 100% clogged and took forever to unclog. Even with a new radiator I would have had cooling problems and most likely clogged the new radiator. [ATTACH=CONFIG]259943[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]259944[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]259945[/ATTACH] Taking the pressure washer to the block sent crud everywhere and I could not bring myself to just clean what I could see so I took it all apart pistons and all and I am glad I did this thing is a mess. The pistons are cruddy and from what I have read in the shop manual this are the original pistons. I am pulling the wrist pins and I am going to clean everything and hope they are still with in spec. I do not want to buy new pistons if I do not have to. Using the limited measuring tools I have it appears the cylinders are very close to there original spec. and I think I will be able to put a good crosshatch inside the cylinders and use standard rings. [ATTACH=CONFIG]259949[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]259950[/ATTACH] It does appear I will need a valve job. Two of the sixteen valve seats will need to be ground for sure. It looks like these were the two valves that were open when the car sat under a carport for 30 plus years and some moisture crept in. Two exhaust seats look like the picture below. So the tear down for a clean up and paint has grown into having the crank turned/polished, new main and rod bearings, new cam bearings, new piston rings and a valve grind. Oh and I have a NOS timing chain and cam sprocket in transit. I want to be able to drive this car long distances so I am glad I found these issues now instead of latter when the engine is in the car. [ATTACH=CONFIG]259947[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]259948[/ATTACH]

I took advantage of the day off and got a start on dismantling my engine. I am starting to think Grandpa was a little off on what was done and when the engine rebuild took place. I finally was able to remove the valve springs A crow bar, a large screw driver and a heavy towel to keep the springs from shooting across the room did wonders. I am sure I will have to locate a side valve spring compressor or make something up to get them back in. I took the crank out and for the most part it appears to be in great shape. The rod journals are not completely smooth and I am hoping a polishing will be all that is required to get them back into shape. One of the rod bearing had a grove cut into it. It looks like a piece of trash or something got into it. The corresponding Journal did not have a grove to match and was actually in the same condition if not better in appearance the the rest. I have started looking for a machine shop to inspect the crank and advise if a polishing is all it needs. Fingers crossed. If anybody In the Winston Salem, Greensboro area that can recommend a shop please do so. Rod Bearing with Groove Short and light. LOL.

Thanks Pontiac1953 for the tip for removing the valves. I had tried my big C valve clamp before but, it did not seem to work and started to bend. I tried it again to night and the the valve and the spring finally separated. I was able to remove the keepers and got one valve out. However I now have a new question in regards to the springs. I thought they would just come out once the valve was removed but no. I see two options either the valve adjustment screws down into the lifter or the what looks to be the valve seat has to come out the top of the block. I am sure there is something I am missing.

Started cleaning up the engine. I have started tackling the low hanging fruit. The valve covers are easy to remove, clean and paint. I was able to paint them this week with the correct Pontiac green. I have waiting to see what this was going to look like. I am very pleased. Even though the engine was supposed to have been rebuilt I believe I have decided to disassemble the majority of it and do some checking while I have easy access. I do need some help how do you remove he valves? Overhead valve set up no problem and i am sure this is very similar just up side down. The shop manual talks about replacing valve seats and adjusting the valves but, It does not tell me how to remove them. I have decided to replace the timing chain. I do not know if the slack in this chain is normal and I have not been able to find a spec to check but, it just seems excessive. I have tried to measure the amount slop and it seems to be in the range of 3/8 of an inch of movement. If any body has an opinion on this I would be pleased to hear it. The gears do not seem to be warn and I am still debating if they need to be replaced. I have seen several kits with new gears and chain but, I am not sure of the quality. I am afraid of some made in China junk that will self destruct. I have seen NOS chains that seem to be the best option so far.

No Jack stands!!! All 4 wheels are now painted and all new rubber has been installed. I hope to have the steering column back together and installed this weekend. It will have to come off again when the body is put back on but, once installed I will be able to roll the chassis outside for a good wash and properly clean the garage.

Learned something and I thought I would share because I am sure there is another thrifty (okay cheep) person who my think a 64 year old sealed wheel bearing is still good. By dumb luck I discovered mine were trash. In an earlier post I said both sides turn fine with a bit of resistance as if the bearings were pushing through good grease. I had the rear all back together and resting on the wheels for several months. I put the rear back on jack stands to take the wheels off for paint and the for some reason I tried to turn the left rear wheel. It did not turn and had locked up solid. After thinking I messed up something with the hogs head I removed axle and discovered it was the wheel bearing. I cut the bearing off and the grease had dried up and the chunks had broken loose and locked the bearing up. So long story short both bearings will be replaced.

Making some good progress. The front suspension is just about done. Working on cleaning up the steering box so the drag link will not have to be supported by jack stand. The last major piece that is holding up completing the front suspension is the left hub. I have been trying to replace a broken wheel stud and I just found out why all of the replacement wheel suds that were supposed to be direct replacements were too small. I thought the stud hole was not damaged when I removed the broken stud many years ago. I finally took the drum off of the hub and the reason I can not find a replacement stud that fits became clear. What I found was the portion of all of the studs that press into the drum is flared and has a much larger diameter then the part of the stud that is in the hub. When I pushed the broken stud back through the hole the stud enlarged it. So if you have to replace a wheel stud on a 53 54 Pontiac check the stud first. I have decided to replace the hub. I think I have found a good one and it should deliver next week. Started to mess with the engine and transmission once the front suspension is complete the engine and transmission will be next on the list. I opened the engine gasket set I bought years ago who would have thought a Fellpro head gasket would rust. I guess this would be considered trash now. One more thing back on the need list.

More progress some of the big parts are starting to go back together very exciting. The right side suspension went back together this weekend only a few more parts and the front suspension will be done. I sill need to find left hand threaded wheel stud and get it pressed in before I can paint the left drum. The right drum is back on more so to get it off the floor and the mental wow factor. It will have to come off later there no brakes in the drum yet. Even though the wheel cylinders were not leaking and stopped the car when we towed it home I did find pits were the seals will travel so I think it is time to retire the original parts and get new cylinders. Before After Two wheels blasted and painted. Two more to go and I still need to find a spare rim. The two painted rims had dried for a week so I took them and had the new tires installed. I was very nervous I just new the new paint was going to flake off. All went well and I could not pass up the chance to pull out one of the hub caps. It needs a lot of polishing but, very motivated to keep working.

Finally it has been nice enough to compete some tasks that are worth sharing. The front suspension is just about done. The left side is complete and after I paint the lower control arm and the right side will be back together. Two rims are cleaned and painted. I hope to take them and have the new tires installed next weekend. I hope to have all four wheels done and back on early next month. I bought a new fuel line and brake line from Inline tube. Installed both not great but, I made them work. The brake line kit fit much better than the gas line. The gas line needed a lot of help to fit properly but, I won and I think it will be fine. It nice to start to see some real progress.

Thanks everbody for your help. This is good news.

I messed up and at a swap meet ordered a new fuel line for my 53 Pontiac. They had two sizes listed 5/16 and 3/8. I thought the smaller size must be for the I line 6 and the larger for the inline 8. Well it delivered today and is very nice. But my turns out to be 5/16 and I bought the 3/8. Looking at the set I can make it work but with an origional fuel pump will the larger line cause any unforeseen problems? Will the pump pull the fuel properly? Will it supply too much fuel? Thanks for your help

Hi I need some advise in regards to shocks. I have been taking advantage of some of the nicer days this winter am hopefully going to be completed with the chassis this spring and I have started looking at shocks. I had a bad experience with the local parts store with my wifes van and when I have the Pontiac back on the road it will be to late to return them if I do not like them. I am afraid they will be too soft(problem with van) or way to stiff hurting the ride I have heard so much about. Several sites have a suggestion but, I would like to get the advise from people who actually have and use a 50's car on who they have used and what they recommend. I am not afraid of taking advantage of modern technology to improve on the handling as long as it does not hurt the ride. Thanks in advance for any input.

Another small victory. The rear axles are installed and the rear wheels are back on.

Things are starting to head back in the right direction again. My last two hurdles I spoke about on my last post have been resolved. I was able to locate a replacement upper control arm at a local salvage yard. Its not as nice as my original but, at least the bushing will tighten. I consider that a win. I re-installed the hogs head today hopefully for the last time. I will have to wait till the car is back together and can go for a road test to know for sure if I got it right. For a part I was not planning on rebuilding I ended up having to take completely apart to replace two bearings and the crush sleeve. So far I think I got it right.

It has been one those weeks it seems like everything I touch goes to pot. Sorry no new pics. Parts I thought were good have turned out not to be so good. I have a bushing that will not torque down on the left upper control arm. It appears it had broken loose at some time and the hole is now larger than the bushing. Good news is I have a lead on a used part and may be able to pick it up this Saturday. The worst has ended up being my differential. I broke down and purchased a inch pound torque wrench and slowly set the Pinion preload. However this went horribly wrong. I have the rotating drag at 10-12 inch pounds using the old bearings like the book states however it did not turn smoothly it felt very choppy and clicked. So I took it all apart. Turns out I have two bearings that have pits (not the cause of the choppy turning and clicking) in the rollers and now the biggest concern is the crush sleeve I can not find a replacement. I could use some good advise on locating a new pinion compression sleeve and if they are not available what other options do I have. I am sure GM had to share this part on something else? One last thing does anybody who lives near Winston-Salem NC know of a shop that is good with old diffs.

Okay I am starting work on my upper control arms on a 1953 Pontiac. The original shaft and bushings felt good and tight until I bolted the arm back to the frame and the shaft was able to move back and forward in the bushings. I had purchased a nos GM shaft and bushings kit but thought I was not going to need it. So to compare I have the nos and old shaft and bushing assembled on the bench with grease and both have the same forward and back movement (shaft in the bushings) I have not fully torqued the bushings in the arm to see if this will help. Is this normal? The shop manual does not have any specs on this.

Ah progress. I know it's not much the first major parts are back together. The hogs head is not permanently back on yet I still need to locate a inch pound torque wrench that can measure 10-12 inch pounds. These things seem to be a rare as hens teeth. I have only found them on the web and they are not cheep. I replaced the pinion seal and in my great wisdom I forgot to mark the nut so now I have to be extra careful to get the preload correct or I see a major rebuild in the future. Right now it is just tight enough to take the slack out. The manual gives directions on how to do this with the added step of marking the nut prior to the removal so I am going to take this very slow and tighten and test until the torque wrench reads 10-12 inch pounds while rotating the pinion.

Well I think I have decided to make a replacement. It doesn't seem to be too complicated. Hopefully the local home improvement box store has the correct thickness of metal required or it will have to wait till next week to get to a metal supplier.

Ugh!!!!! Working on my last leaf spring and the last spring clamp tab broke off. Not going to be able to install the left spring this week end. I have spent the last hour looking on line for a replacement with no luck. Lots of replacements but, nothen like the original. Does any body have one laying around they would be willing to sell? I'll post a picture later tonight. If not I guess the search will begin or I'll end up making a replacement. Oh and did I mention Ugh!!!

Hi Charles, The tube seems to be brass and in great shape from what I can see with a flash light. I really want to save it and not tear it up. Would something like CLR loosen some of the scale?

Hi it has been a while since my last post. Work has been made I have been cleaning and painting brackets for the frame that will never see light again once the body is back one. A lot of work but has to be done. I have completed a task I was dreading I have removed and installed all 6 of the rear spring bushings. It turned out to be fairly easy. The right rear leaf spring is back together and on the frame the left spring is painted and once I have the gaiters cleaned it will be completed and can be put back on the frame. The rear axle is almost back together. I just finished painting the axle housing. The hogs head has a new pinion seal and has been painted orange. It seems a bit strange but when I cleaned all the crud off of it there was a lot of orange paint left. The manual makes mention that this gear ratio is also marked with orange paint so it’s orange. Once the axle is mounted back on the frame I am going to take another shot at pulling out the axle seals. Hopefully with the axle stationary I'll be able to break them loose. The bearings and ring gear are all in great shape. Some of the joys of having a low mileage car. I am still debating the axle bearings only because they are sealed. They seem to be fine from the smooth constant resistance. I think the grease has not hardened but I cannot be sure. I am open to the opinions and experiences of others on this topic.