Dashmaster
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Posts posted by Dashmaster
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I have been monitoring the ECM Data screen light for the TC lockup, I have not monitored the command but think it will pattern with the TC light but I will compare. This problem occurs after TC lockup in 3rd or 4th gear cruising, When you lift off the throttle to slow down, TC unlocks like it should then something engages in cycles that slows the car down, RPMS drop 200 to 400 RPM. Give it throttle TC locks and accelerates normally, let up, cycle will start again. Nothing in the ECM data is out of normal during this
cycle.
My test with meter will allow me to see actual
voltages in the lockup circuit, There is a possibility that its engaging but not by command from the ECM thus not setting the light.
The slow down is like any car that in 4th gears stays locked up when you lift the throttle, or a manual transmission car. My 97 F250 7.3 Diesel is like this. I can drive the truck on the highway almost entirely by the throttle from 45 mph and up TC is locked.
I have wired a manual TC lockup before on 91 Chevy 700R4, I used the to tow a trailer with, made a huge difference with power and trans temps pulling hills and adding better engine braking from being locked. The programming on the 91 would unlock on hills and unlock when off throttle.
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Yes I can raise it and run it, Since engine is running good and I have found no faults I am now looking at the trans. I am going to
replace vacuum modulator since it is old, I did check it for fluid leakage and line was clear. I am going to hookup DVM to monitor the TC lockup and see what the voltage reading are and I can compare this to the ECM light, If I see anything on the meter for lockup that the ECM is not showing I plan to disconnect the lockup and test it manually.
I did drop the trans pan this spring to replace the gasket and filter. Its has about 2K miles on it since this work.
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I have installed the new OX sensor and New Plugs and Wires. I did find some small issues with plugs but nothing major they could have caused a slight miss or
hesitation. Problem is still there. I have removed the EGR and cleaned it (less than 1 years old anyway) re-adjusted the TPS and set to 3.8. I have looked over
everything and do not see anything out of place. Vacuum lines have been checked. I have not driven it yet sine the EGR and TPS changes above. I have not put fuel in it yet so this might have something to do with it. It feels like something is turning on and off when it happens but its not the TCC. Still open to any other suggestions.
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I just installed a new OX sensor and will give it a test drive later. Interesting is that the one I pulled out was a Bosch that I got from the Reatta store, The new was in ACdelco box but don't think its ACdelco from what I have read. Sensors are the same in every respect. Its same height as the Bosch which I know is taller. I will give it a try, I have the new wires and plugs ready to install but will be later today.
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I am going to try 2 more things. Replace the OX sensor since I have seen it crash and reset count, CRT displays 0 -75 count, when problem occurs it stops count up and goes to 0, Its a Bosch sensor which I am not a fan of for reliability. AC going in. I will also
replace the wires and plugs.The wires are NAPA brand which I have had issues with on other cars. Since I am going to pull the plugs for inspection I might as well change them.
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About the only old part I have on this car is the fuel regulator, I did have to change it last year due to hesitation and found fuel on vacuum line. The part I put on was off the original fuel rail.I did not do pump load test,On and running.
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After looking at factory specs the reading I am getting are in spec. I am running out of idea's on this problem. Specs I have found list idle at 40-47 psi and 35-40
running.
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208 to 213 is what mine shows hot day sitting at a light. regular average is 197-203 on the CRT.
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I checked the TPS it seemed ok but I had a new Delco one so I installed it. No Change, I set new TPS to.42. Checked Fuel pressure, it is 40 psi key on, running 34psi and when you hit the throttle jumps back up to about 39. This pump seems weak,its only 3 year old with about 4K miles on it. Reatta Store has the Delco for my 88 and the Bosch, which one would you choose?
I am not sure if the Delco branded parts you get now are as good as they once were.
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OX is less then 2 years old and less then 3K miles on it. My exhaust it new from down pipe to muffler. I Can check TPS with Meter. EGR and IAC were also replaced anout the same time as OX sensor.
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Drove today, Still have issue, I have also watched different parameters for ECM data. Only one that seem to change out of spec is the OX sensor will 0 out and restart count up. IAC and TPS seem normal. I also noticed that is does this also at low speed light throttle 25 mph. Its like engine staring to stumble. My fuel pump is only 2 years old but I will check pressures, I will also recheck plugs to see if I see any fouling. I am running Rapid Fire plugs gaped at 60 because I am using Delco
ICM. I chacked fuel regulator to see if there was any fuel on the vacuum port and there was none.
This thread is a lot like the Shudder Thread.
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After sleeping on it and I have said the Car was running great before. No Idle issues or anything other then Cruise warning. The Problem started on Wednesday, I just recalled the I got gas and filled the tank at a station I don't use much but they sell lots of gas, I have gotten gas there before but it was not the summer blend. So right now I am suspecting gas quality. I added some Startron to it and plan to run it around and re-fill to see if it changes. The gas I got was at a Sheets, I usually get gas at Sam's club.
Also just for reference, OX, IAC, EGR were installed last year, TPS is smooth .4 to 4.0, I have never removed it. Coil and ICM are good, Plug wires are about 2 years old NAPA brand, Rapid Fire Plugs new last year. All of these parts have about 2000 miles on them.
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Problem still exists. During test drive I had diagnostic service mode up for ECM data, When problem happens only BLM fuel did drop a little in sync with condition. IAC did not seem to change with surge. At 50 mph and I take my foot off to let it coast the problem starts, TPS is at .4 which is the lowest reading with foot off throttle, with sight throttle raising the TPS to .44 the problem goes away. But this might just be because I am adding a little gas. This one has got me stumped right now.
Cruise light is back on.
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I just decided to clean the MAF and Throttle body. I did this about a year ago and have put about 2000 miles on it since then. before do this I was playing is the
diagnostic checking all the Cruise functions and switches. I just started the car and for the first time today Cruise light is out, I will have to test drive the car to see if cleaning the MAF made any difference for my main problem. Also I have been doing gas mileage calculations and the car is averaging between 27.5 and 29.8 MPG. So the car is running good.
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I will have to find the thread I saw recently that mentioned the correct laptop cable and file to use for this. I put my Delco ICM back on and did test the TPS and it is in spec maybe a little low on the high side. .4 - 4.0 were my readings. This also only happens in Closed loop.
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I Installed the new Cruise Servo, Mine was bad still have warning on it. Test Drove with Diagnostic on and watched the TCC light. When the problem started again it was not the TCC locking and unlocking.
Swapped in my old good Magnavox ICM and coils. Problem is the same.
It will do it in 3 or 4th gear TCC locked or unlocked when lifting off throttle and or coasting, RPM drop is about 400rpm. It is not throwing any codes.
Any more ideas??
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Thank You Ronnie for that suggestion. Traffic in the afternoon for me is a bear, on the brakes allot, stop an go at the start and up and down 2 mountain ranges on I 70 with people who can't control speed well. So the switch could have gone bad so I will check all these things and report what was my Fix. Thank You all for the suggestions.
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I have my old Magnavox ICM with coils I can swap in and test if needed. The ICM I have on the Car is a 91 setup I got from Junk yard with new coils on it. Thanks for the input. Since it has not set any codes other than Cruise, I have been trying to think of anything that does not set a code that could cause the condition. I will give it a good going over this weekend and see what I can find. Car was fine until that last stop.
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Dave' s ideal is a good one, I would also Contact Jim Finn and Marck at EastCoast Reatta parts to see if either has a good
replacement in Tan. I just got a replacement from Marck for my Blue interior at a good price last month.
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Thanks for the input, I will have to see where I can display the icon. I am not sure its the TC but feels like it. I did do Filter and fluid change about 2K miles ago on the trans. I have not had any shifting or slippage from this transmission since I have had the car on the road. I did not have time to look to see if a vacuum port broke off the Cruise Servo, I know the lines are good I replaced bad lines last year. Cruise Servo Ordered because the warning was getting on my nerves. Its been the only thing setting any warning on the car. Been running so good I figured I was good to go to Allentown, Now have something new to figure out.
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I have been driving my car regularly and been running great. Yesterday after a stop and getting back onto the highway car pulled the hill at speed fine. When letting off the throttle to slow down or maintain speed I am getting big pull down like TC is locking. Usually it just unlocks on grades when lifting off the throttle. At this time also the Cruise warning came on, the Cruise warning has been doing this for while randomly. Going the rest of the way home, Flat road speed 50 mph, car accelerates smoothly and shifts thru all gears up to speed fine, let up slightly on the throttle to maintain speed, this lockup or issue cuts in and out, looking at gauges I see about 300 rpm drop. The TPS is original and the Cruise needs to be replaced and both can affect TC lockup. I did not get any codes other than the Cruise. Do you all have any other thoughts on this?
Thanks, Wayne
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Take a look at this older thread. They all Light up. If the dash sensor is bad CRT and Dash will not dim and no switches will light up.
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Deano, Welcome to the Forums. Looks like you did good work so far you ABS light issue.You should also check condition of all the ABS Sensor Leads for physical cracks and any breaks in the sheath . You can also test each from the truck with a meter and spinning the associated wheel. Bad wheel speed sensor will also set the ABS Light. So before buying the ECBM check these because if any are bad you will still have the ABS light on. Wheel Speed Sensors are hard to come by and usually cost $100 to $150 each.
You will then have the total cost for fixing the ABS. I know East Coast Reatta Parts had wheel sensors, they may also have the ECBM
Do you the the ABS is not needed to Drive the Car. Brakes work normally like any system without ABS. .
Wayne
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Hello Everyone, Been posting down in the Reatta forum for about 2 years now. Here is a picture of my work in process. If you ever see some of my other pictures of its condition when I started working on this car , many would have just parted it out.There is also a kinda interesting story on how I came to have it. I did get it from the original owner. I have been a Car nut for very long time and appreciate all things classic. This is my first Buick, 1988 Reatta White/Blue. I am a new BCA and RDIV member and will see you all in Allentown.
Wayne
Hope to add another 88 Reatta and a 1968 Skylark one day to this one.
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45 to 50mph Issue, Feels Like TC is locking and Unlocking
in Buick Reatta
Posted
Installed Modulator and did not solve problem but it shifts better than before. But a couple of times when parking after a run it will idle really bad for about a minute, I have checked ECM when is happens. Its very random but may be linked. The only part I have not changed with a new part is the Fuel Pressure Regulator. The one on the car is the original, When I got the car running I swapped the rail with injectors and regulator from a junk yard. I did clean and test all injectors then. Car ran on that setup last year but had hesitation issue and found fuel in the regulator and swapped the original back on. Since the fuel regulator is vacuum run and at idle vacuum drops, this could be causing both issues. New regulator is supposed to arrive Friday. I hope this is the fix.