tenugent
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Posts posted by tenugent
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Working on a 64 that someone else removed rear windows.Any tips on installing and setting adjusting screws to get me in the ballpark before final adjustment.I do have the body manuel.
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18 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:
This newest 19 year old has joined my cars as a stored, summer only driver. It has an electric fuel pump manufactured into it. None of my old cars have an electric pump and under normal spring starting conditions they start in 20-30 seconds of total "crank and stop a few seconds" time. The Caddy starts instantly after sitting even if it has been a long time. I plan to own it 20 years from now. (Plan doesn't mean I will make it, but I plan).
This topic has me thinking about all those zero oil pressure, dry starts. I think I will look into a way to disable the ignition so I can give it 20-30 seconds of cranking time to get my engine oil circulating through all those vital parts. Thinking about a dry engine starting without a little prelube gives me that fingernails on the blackboard shivers.
That's the way mine is set up Benie,I have a on and off switch.I leave it off and crank the motor over to get the oil flowing for about twenty seconds ,then turn it on to start the car (63) riviera.Like a guy on here stated (I'd rather change a starter,than a motor).
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On 1/5/2024 at 10:58 AM, B Jake Moran said:
I don't like those wire wheel caps and I am not sure what they are from. I think 1970's full size Buicks, but I am not sure. Give me the correct wheel hubcaps any day.
Dont know about other models but riviera 63-64 had them
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1 hour ago, Steve Moskowitz said:
Yep. this one that you have read about before. 455 w/16,000 miles on at the time. Given to me by a close friend who was a customer of my dealership. There was a TV episode about this long story but the end is I will never sell it but give it to some other worthy person who has to promise to do the same. Significant value, really not but so valuable to me because who gave it to me.
The 1908 Olds Limited Prototype was one of many cars donated to AACA but this one takes the cake! Yes, it is valuable...extremely!
Is that Charly Nogels old oldsmobile.
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1 hour ago, Brtele said:
I'm sad to say my corners are starting lift. I believe I followed the instructions to a "T". I can push them back down and they'll stay for a little, but I know this is temporary. Dang it - I'm going to have to try it again.
As EmTee stated,contact cement
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24 minutes ago, RivNut said:
Thanks, I’ll get a silver marker and give it a shot. Not sure about the cutter unless I was going to to a mass production.
Cut with aviation snips,like sheetmetal workers use
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43 minutes ago, jframe said:
As an aside, does anyone have the part number for the duct that can adapt the a/c duct hose to the black plastic rectangle that is behind my center vent? My VA system works good except for airflow in this area, because when it was installed, someone just cobbled the hose to the plastic with a/c tape. Not really the solution I'm looking for, and thought I read somewhere that they offered an adapter for the round hose to the rectangle box.
Yes there is,I used one on my 63 install.Im pretty sure I ordered it from vintage air?I'll do some research and get back to you.
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If your savvy enough and patient you can do all of this work yourself.You will need the outer balls and center vent.Your car already has the fan shroud,the bracket that Vintageair sells mounts your new compressor and alternator.I did my own with upgraded chrome compressor for about $2200.Again look at previous discussion on this system.Bulldogdrivers info and installation was very helpful
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Any questions go to post war buicks forum
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1 hour ago, 1965rivgs said:
Hi Tim,
Answer is the same.... depends on your specific circumstances, ie, is the hood already removed from the car? Do you have a trans jack in order to safely install the trans independent of the engine? (Or are you personally willing to risk installation of the trans with just a floor jack and a 2X4? Keep in mind you have 10 fingers so if the trans falls off the floor jack and cuts a couple off there are more, just try to make sure it`s not a thumb.) Do you have a heavy duty lift which is capable of safely handling the weight of both the engine and trans? Will the floor in your shop make it difficult or easy to maneuver the lift with both the weight of the engine and trans suspended? Is your lifting fixture capable of changing angles through the installation process if installing as a unit? The variables are MANY, no matter which method or order, and specific to your situation.
Look forward in the process keeping in mind what your circumstances and available tools/equipment are at your disposal, and your skill set, and decide which method is best for YOU.
Personally, what I GENERALLY do, is remove the valve covers, rocker assemblies and possibly the intake to grab the engine with the lift as close to the valley pan as possible, minimizing the distance between the boom and engine. Generally, that enables me to have enough clearance for the boom when lifting the engine to do the installation without bothering with the hood, but it will be tight so care is required... and through trial and error over decades of experience I have MANY options at hand for lifting in my arsenal so I can grab the engine tight and well balanced...but I try to keep it simple!
Generally, for removal, I place a jack under the trans and lift the front of the trans as I lift the engine until the front of the trans touches the trans tunnel and then separate the trans from engine in that position, lift out the engine after moving it forward slightly and then go after the trans by moving it forward away from the crossmember and uncouple from the d-shaft yoke.
For installation I generally install the trans first leaving the trans jack in place, the rear mount locks the trans into the desired forward/rearward position, so when I "drop" the engine most of the manipulation of components occurs from a standing position beside the car instead of from a prone position on a creeper, or both, which requires on and off the creeper; I`m old enough so that hurts now. In this way I can manipulate the engine with the lift and manipulate the trans with the handle of the trans jack, both from a standing position beside the car, as the trans only needs to go right or left and the front angle of the trans can be adjusted up or down to mate with the engine with the trans jack.
Having stated all of the above, there is no "right" or "wrong" way or order to do it, it`s all dictated by your circumstances and preferences....and truth be told, I`m likely to mix things up depending on my mood and how uncomfortable I am given the specific circumstances or time constraints. It`s one of those situations where a certain minimum degree of forethought is necessary to keep from doing something stupid or putting yourself in a trick bag, but in the end, overthinking things is time better spent putting hands on and moving toward your goal....get that monkey off the couch and put him to work.
Tom
Thanks Tom,think I'll go with trans in place first.Hood will be off.If there's any fingers to be lost it will be the Monkeys.
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27 minutes ago, gungeey said:
Here's my hood helper. No more neighbors. No more scrapes. No more waiting. Well spent 100 bucks, clips right on your hoist
What is that made from?
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42 minutes ago, 1965rivgs said:
There`s really no definitive answer, depends most on the circumstances and the mechanic...if you have overhead room, a lift with good range, and have the capability to remove the hood (a helper), installing as a unit minimizes time spent under the car...but if one is comfortable working from a creeper under the car, has a good selection of tools and common sense to use prybars and leverage or working solo, installing the engine and trans independently works too. It`s really about having the foresight to imagine the working circumstances relative to both methods and choosing which of those circumstances is best suited to the available tools and skill set.
I find it a PITA to work with the engine and trans as a unit due to weight and manipulating angles so I generally install each component independently.
Tom
Thanks Tom,would you do engine first or trans.
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54 minutes ago, EmTee said:
As with many things, "it depends"... Is the subject car a 1st-gen?
1st gen 64
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Is it best to have trans in car when reinstalling motor or as one unit.Thanks fir any help.
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25 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:
I have a folder with 6 MB of detailed pictures of this Vintage Aire installation and can't remember which forum member sent them to me. DR914? Maybe.
That's Texrivs car,he was one of the first to install the vintageair system.John Costa go to the ROA forum and you'll find the help you need.
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Google Cars old buick parts,under decals page 15
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Any changes in fuel economy
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I think finding someone to guarantee paint will match will be the most important thing.
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I bought a riviera from a dealer in Penn.with signed tittle,here in Illinois they wouldn't let me transfer it in my name without bill of sail?
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Try a test pattern on a piece of plywood,I would think the grain of the plywood would be a good rough surface for the paint to bind to.
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5 hours ago, BulldogDriver said:
If I remember correctly head gaskets are not left or right and will only go on one way. The oil/water holes are symmetrical but I think the alignment holes were offset.
I do think that without a true temperature reading you are just defeating yourself in finding the problem. If go to Russ and Matt’s website they have several articles on the problems you are trying to fix. They are under “Matt’s technical articles”. I also had high temperature issues that were only resolved by replacing the radiator even after having the original one properly flushed out. There is only so much that can be done without re coring it.http://centervilleautorepair.com/
Ray
As Ray states,had mine flushed and still ran hot.Went with a recore and solved the overheating.
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3 hours ago, EmTee said:
I agree, yours looks pristine. They are indeed rare on Rivieras; and Buicks of this era in general. I once found one on top of the gas tank in a '74 Nova. Sometimes also wedged into the rear seat springs. I think a couple of Riviera owners have found them behind the LF kick panel.
My 63s was under rear seat spring
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Break it at 4 foot and tape the joints with a banjo
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23 hours ago, XframeFX said:
Thank Ed. Now what would the spring length be, eye-to-eye retracted? I know I can improvise but it would be nice to closely match original.
PM SENT
Fuel Injection
in Buick Riviera
Posted
You may look into a electric fuel pump with a on and off switch.I have one I like so I can turn the motor over to get oil pumping through the motor so I dont get a dry start.As Tom T said I'd rather change a starter than a motor.