Detroit57Bird

First thank you for your help! This reduction in the brake fluid level has happened a couple times in the past and seems to be erratic in occurring (?). The fluid level was full late last summer but I didnt check it before winter storage. I'll estimate it was driven a couple hundred miles in the fall and has only been driven a couple hundred miles so far this year. I haven't really seen much in the way of smoke in the exhaust. The brakes/fluid were bled and refilled 2 weeks ago now. I'll look this evening and see if there was a change in level. There are no visible signs of brake fluid leak nor has there been in the past. Thank you for any ideas!!

My brake fluid was extremely low but there is no leaking. A shop said they assume it was being burned by the engine via the remote brake booster unit. Any insight on this from anyone? what is the best course of action? Should I replace or rebuild this unit? Is it difficult to rebuild? parts available? Thank you!

In the past 2 weeks my 1957 bird 312 v8 has been strange when first thing in the morning. It starts just fine but when you put it in gear it is very "sluggish" - doesnt really go. If you give it some gas it gets going progressively and then seems fine. Its fine by the time its out of the garage and driveway. Other than that the transmission doesnt do anything unusual like shift harshly. I do think I hear additional noise under the car when its in gear (not in neutral or park). I recently checked the oil in the pinion gear, all full (even though it leaks). Would appreciate any suggestion on the likely issue or what to check. Thanks! Mark

I don't have a specific thought/suggestion beyond the comments made. One point of information - ultimately the cause of the problem with my car was (painfully) simple. Apparently someone had mistakenly reversed the wires from the generator to the regulator. The polarity was reversed - the positive was connected to the negative and vice versa! Ouch. Unlikely you have the same problem but you may want to carefully trace basic connections.

Lew, how about replacing the chrome around the lenses, what is the best approach ? thanks

I will take some picture and send over the weekend.

yes. do you need them shipped?

BTW didn't find anything on tire aging recommendations on Ford's owner/service website owner.ford.com .

Thanks for the comment. Here is what I found - 1) Gil's garage says "Ford Motor Co as well as other car manufactures added a 6 year Tire replacement recommendation, regardless of tread wear, to its website and all 2006 Owners Manuals." 2) the Rubber mfg associations says there is no science to support the 6 year tire wear out; 3) the first recommendation on this was made in Britain where the recommendation was, don't put tire into service after 6 years. 4) NHTSA says, "Some tire and vehicle manufacturers have issued recommendations for replacing tires that range from six to ten years of age. Consumers are advised to check with their tire or vehicle manufacturer for specific guidance." CONSUMER ADVISORY: Motorists Urged to Check Tires Before Summer Trips | National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) The NHTSA detailed study published in 2009 is the best science published. It shows there is the greatest change in the material characteristics that would cause some sort of delamination but it happens in the first couple years after manufacturing and then slows. It further indicates that there did not see it having structural implications. I guess that is why they came out with, "check your tires". I do think the press had a field day with this and of course, Ford after the tire debacle of the 90's would also take a consumer safe position on replacing tires, doesnt matter to them. I'm not trying to be casual about this, but i cant find any facts. I guess my view is to follow the government industry watchdog on this stuff NHTSA (National Highway Transportation Safety Administration) guidance which is, check the tires. Anyway, these tires have a manufacturing date code of mid 2006.

I have 4 Firestone bias ply tires for sale that are correct for the 55-57 Tbirds - 14 x 7.5. They are in excellent condition, no scuffs at all. I estimate they have between 1000-2000 miles on them (bought my car with these tires on). These exact tires, new from Coker are $186 each plus shipping. These are the tires if you want the original vehicle look. I would like to sell all 4 together for $450. I am located near Detroit but will get them shipped to you want to pay the shipping cost (probably around $80-100). Please reply via this forum if interested. Thanks. [ATTACH=CONFIG]154353[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]154354[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]154355[/ATTACH]

This more about the "ancestry" than a particularly notable or fond memory story. I bought my red 1957 Thunderbird from my boss at work about 1.5 years about. He got it at a charity auction for the local children's hospital. He made a very generous donation for the hospital and got the car. It was in good condition but the paint was not. It was not restored until 2010 ( pictures 1957 Thunderbird ). The car was donated to the auction by Ford. I have a copy of the title. I have not been able to get any record on the ownership before that from Ford nor the State. The shop who did the restoration is exceptional. They are a very high end, shop that builds all the Corvette race cars (American LeMans) and other programs for GM. They now have an impressive classic car restoration business going after this TBird being their first. (My boss had a relationship with them and therefore the request to do the Thunderbird.) Any thoughts on how to trace the lineage of this vehicle? I'm guessing it just stays a mystery. Thanks

One more note/tip for anyone needing to work on the generator. The messiest bit is the fact that one of the bolts holding on the generator, actually the bracket that holds the generator, goes through the water pump. Crazy. As a result yes you have to mess with removing it in order to remove the generator. After several rounds of trial and error, and therefore several round of draining the cooling system and refilling, I figured out you can get the bracket loose enough to get the generator off and NOT drain the cooling system. You do get some leakage from where the bolt goes through the water pump but a square catch pail under it works out. Basically you loosen the bolt, get the generator off the bracket and retighten the bolt until you are ready to put it back on.

Thanks. It took me a while to get on this repair and longer to get out here and say thanks. The generator was damaged. I believe the source of the problem was the voltage regulator. 1) replaced the voltage regulator and 2) rebuilt the generator including repair to the end cap connection which look fried. I'm not sure there really was any problem with the commutator or brushes but replaced anyway. Didn't change the field windings at all. So again thanks for all the advice - I wouldn't have tried this by myself except for your advice and the great help of a couple real car guy friends at work. There turned out to be another wiring problem (which we fixed) but that is another story. Recommendation: if anyone plans on replacing the voltage regulator - shop around. I found the same part from several sources from around $40 to $100! Delivery time was the difference so if you can wait... Generally i found Mac's to be the best price on the parts. If you live in southeast Michigan the guys at Bill's Suburban Alternator and Starter in Roseville have some "very experienced" (gray hair guys like me) that can help with older cars.

Well, it took a while but did get to fixing the electrical system. You were correct the voltage regulator was bad and the generator was partially fried. I rebuilt the generator and replaced the voltage regulator. Charging system is working perfectly. Thanks for your help! I'm on to the next items on my list...

Hi guys, you always seem to know what's the best approach so here's a few simple (?) questions- 1) interior touch up - color is colonial white. small nicks. I only see exterior paint online. Is there different interior paint ? 2) cigarette light is dead. Fuse is fine. most likely next step is replace it or its in the wiring ? 3) the aluminum (?) machined dash behind the instruments is fairly pitted and tarnished. What is entailed in replacing? Read somewhere that is it a job. i don't suppose anyone has a document or diagram exploding this to follow ? Thanks ! Mark Hillman

thanks, will do.

Bob, thanks so much for the detailed msg. One more question, it seems the generator is still working as the battery seems to keep its charge. Also strangely sometimes the generator light stays on, sometimes not. I will replace the voltage regulator and see what happens. Is it likely the generator is still good not "cooked"? Again thanks for helping a novice! Mark

Wow, thanks for the replies. I've got it in storage for winter so will get it sorted out in a few months. You guys rock.

Bought a super nice 1957 Thunderbird last year. Everything is great but it has one odd behavior. The previous owner installed a kill switch on battery because with the car off intermittently the battery will drain down very quickly with the generator heating up and smoking. Any thoughts on what the problem might be? Also second general question - I saw note from 1957Birdman about blue regulator versus black. How to know whether parts are correct or not? For example I think the carpet may be incorrect. THANKS!