Plyroadking
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Posts posted by Plyroadking
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I think I have one, I'll have to dig the fender out and check
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Did George get you one?
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I know its not correct for the car, but the guy that gave me my '41 had always wanted to swap on a later style bombsight hood ornament. Being there are not many 40's Buicks in wrecking yards around here I was wondering if anyone happened to know if there was a specific year that'd fit the curvature of the hood?
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There are several ih groups on Facebook. One of them i like is International "binder" trucks. What parts are you looking for? I've got a '57 A120 that I'm working on but bought a '60 dump truck for a parts source.
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4 hours ago, ply33 said:
If I recall correctly, I used some wrench sockets and my bench vise to press out the old bushings and press in the new. I guess it depends on how tight they are if you can do that or if you need a real press with appropriate tooling.
This is the set I found somewhere.
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On 11/10/2020 at 6:51 PM, chetbrz said:
PS... The parts are in the mail.
Replacement kingpin sets are available? I believe I have the "do it yourself" reamer and drivers to replace the kingpin bushings.
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One like this?
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You don't use the bottom two holes. I helped install one in a '36. I was surprised the first time I removed one from a Chrysler and saw they used the 5th and 6th hole. The later R10s are the same way.
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That is a 30u engine, 31 had a different water pump. I've been collecting spare engines for my 30u with a water pump and fuel pump. I'd be loading up for a drive to Ohio but I already have 3 spares.
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My '40 had the same issue, finally traced it to the butterfly shaft being so worn that I was sucking air around it.
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I think I used an old Motor's manual or flat rate book when I reassembled my first one. I'll dig it out and take some pictures.
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My father made several sets of running boards for 28-30 Plymouths. I can get some pictures and measurements this afternoon. He copied the originals from my 30 sedan but upsized the gauge.
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I have a spare clum 9150, but I paid pretty good for it a couple years ago.
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Location? I have a mostly complete 1939 c22 engine in Des Moines Iowa.
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On 5/2/2018 at 7:27 AM, captndan said:
Youngsters today want money in not money out. Old cars are not chick magnets.
Might depend on where you live, back in CA I couldn’t pick one up if I offered a free dinner and a garage parking spot. Out here in the Midwest they get all excited and want to know if you can fix their car or household items, I’d be more inclined but I married the first one I met with a broken down car.....
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I'm getting several, especially after last Thursday. I turned right into my driveway and got hit by a guy passing me on my right. No citation issued because he said I hit him... my word against his. The officer didn't even care that passing on the right on a two lane is illegal.
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How much I tell my wife I paid for it.
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On 3/26/2018 at 2:10 PM, Spinneyhill said:
When you get the car, post the numbers etc. cast into the transmission case. The Hollander might just tell you if that is the correct transmission for a 1940 Plymouth.
There should also be a date stamped on one of the machined surfaces. Either in front or behind the side cover.
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Fluid drive was more a dodge thing, but with some work one could be put in a Plymouth, to my knowledge it was never a factory option. The best upgrade that can be done to improve top end speeds is an overdrive transmission. 1940 was the first year for a true column shifted transmission and they stuck with that design for years. Shifter arms on the transmissions changed but your 1940 arms will bolt on and work up to 1955-56 ish when they switched to a much longer tailshaft on the transmissions.
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Providing it hasn't been swapped it should just be a standard 3 speed transmission. They are pretty much the same from 1940 to 1955 and most everything will interchange. 1940 has a "fast" 2nd gear that some people like to swap into their later transmissions. I've been through many of them and there's nothing very critical or intense about them.
Motor's auto repair manuals have a procedure for going through one. They're available on eBay usually cheap. I wouldn't go new then early 50s.
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1 hour ago, dei said:
I have just about every wrench I need both metric and SAE since my son bought his BIG multi drawer rolling tool box with wood top and has stocked it well.
I no longer have to hunt for mine as I put the ones I'm using back in there for fear I wreck our father and son relationship!
Funny how before he bought this thing, Dad's wrenches were never where I last put them...
(Hmmm... guess I might have done that same thing to my Dad
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My father claims he had tools before he had three sons, hasnt seen them since. I keep finding tools with his initials on them in my box. I think he's planting them there to make a point....
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My aunt bought me a 3 piece craftsman tool box set when I was 13. I thought I'd never fill it with tools. 19 years later and it weighs almost as much as a car and I'm needing to upgrade to something bigger.
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I bought 5 gallons of gl1 from Napa several years ago. I understand that everyone agrees that it's the closest to oem spec oil to run in our old transmissions. However when i use it i notice more grinding and hard shifts then I have with a modern multigrade hypoid and non hypoid lube. I've been running 85-90 wt gl 4 and 5 in my transmissions now for 22 years now and have yet to see any deterioration to the brass synchros in the transmissions. Maybe I don't let the cars sit idle enough?
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WTB 241-cubic-inch inline-six motor
in Chrysler Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted · Edited by Plyroadking (see edit history)
I've got one from a '39 Chrysler, C22. in Des Moines Iowa though, came with an overdrive transmission I wanted. Supposedly was running and driving car when the guy hotrodded it, but they all say that. If you're interested I can dig it out and try starting/running it.