macc

I’ll have to check on that one. But wouldn’t I still get power when I turned the key on even if the points are sticking? checked the points and they look good not sticking together

Thanks for the idea. I’m doing that now and I did notice that it appears the car has no ground straps from the engine to the firewall that I can see. It probably hasn’t had any in the 8 years I’ve had the car. I never removed any. I’m sure it’s not helping the situation not having any but the car has been working fine without them all these years. I’m going to add one just In case. The battery is showing 12 volts on the multimeter and the alternator is showing 6.6 volts

I’ve been having some battery/charging system problems lately. It all started when I was driving the car the other day went into the store when I came back out and tried to start the car the battery was dead. Turned the key and nothing no weak cranking, my air compressors didn’t come on nothing just dead as a door nail. I tried to jump the car with my pick up truck to no avail. I ended up using the battery from my wife’s car and was able to get her home. I took the battery and alternator to the parts store for testing. They told me my battery was bad but my alternator was good. So I bought a new battery put everything back together and everything seemed to be working fine. Everything worked good I was able to drive the car for a few days but again the battery was dead as a door nail. I put my trickle charger on the battery for a couple days to get a full charge. Then took the alternator back to the store to check once again and they tll me that it checks out fine so I bought a new voltage regulator thinking this was the problem. Got back home and put everything back in the car and gave it another shot. Turned the key on and nothing dead as dead can be. I bought a multimeter and tested the battery it’s showing 12 volts. Now I’m at a loss. What else should I be looking at?

Thanks for the replies I'll have to get under her when this rain stops and take a look at that center support. As far as the missing fluid goes I noticed one of the tranny cooler lines was leaking so I'm guessing that's when it came from. Should be an easy fix. I park the car in my side yard on dirt so there no puddle of fluid on the ground that builds up.

I haven't driven my car since summer ended and when I went to start it the other day it had a good whine to it when it's in gear. More so in drive then low or reverse. I pulled the car out and checked the fluids and the tranny fluid was not even registering on the dipstick so I added fluid hoping the noise would go away. When I went to take it around the block as soon as I gave it a lil gas a loud knock came from under the car it sounded like the driveshaft was hitting something. It doesn't do it in reverse only in drive. And the tranny whine is still there. Anyone have an idea what might be going on?

Well I think I may have figured out where the rattle is coming from. After trying all your suggestions without any luck. I disconnected the transmission kick down linkage, really just because I was tired of having a stiff pedal, and drove the car around for a few weeks and didn't hear the rattle once. Took it for a nice long 2 hour drive from Sacramento to San Jose and didn't hear the rattle either, used up a quart of oil though. Well a week ago I connected the transmission kick down and the rattle is back.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Unfortunately I've been out of work and have been unable to look into this further. But can't do anything without money first right. The last time I drove the car it only made the sound for a lil while then it was gone for the rest of the day. Really weird. I haven't noticed any change in performance at all. It's just a liil embarrassing pulling away from a stop light when the car is making a weird sound. Kinda takes the cool away haha. As soon as I'm back home I'll give those suggestions a try.

Thanks Tom I will inspect the center bearing and see its condition. No I'm not familiar with pre ignition or spark knock. Is that something timing related?

ok Ed I tried your lil trick and the left side did lift up a bit. More then the right side. The fan shroud looks un touched so I don't think that is where the sound is coming from. I haven't been able to get under her to check on that mount yet as of my back flaring up. Hopefully tomorrow I can get under her. Thanks for all the replies you guys really know your stuff!

i did check the lines along the frame rails and all clamps look good and tight

I checked the fan and there is plenty of clearance all around the fan.

I've been trying to track down a rattle I've been hearing on my 63 for some time now. It only happens when I'm driving down the road and have the throttle pressed down. When I take my foot off the pedal it stops also when it's in neutral it stops even if I press on the gas. I've looked for anything rattling against anything under the car but haven't found a thing. It almost sounds like something is hitting the fan blades but I see nothing even close to it. The more throttle I give her the more pronounced the sound gets. I know it's kinda hard to diagnose a noise over a computer but any suggestions you might have would be greatly appreciated.

Oh ok cool thanks

Thanks a lot! Now that I look at it again it could be a 11B ill have to clean it up a bit. Ok yep those are all the options I have on my car. Plus the rear speaker and tilt wheel. Also I heard there was an option for rear seat door handles my car is equipped with them. Or is that normal for every car?

I was wondering if someone could decode my data plat for me. It reads 113 style 63-4747. FB 8239 trim 728j2. AA acc D 16 N2 SU8

I don't think I have any assist at all. Just a hard pedal. This is my first Rivi I have owned so I don't really know how the brakes are supposed to feel. I've put quite a few miles on the car in the past few weeks and the car stops just fine it just takes a lil leg muscle to do it.

I agree 100% when it comes to steering and brakes I make sure everything is working right. Could the issue be the brake booster?

How do the stock power brakes supposed to feel and operate. I have a feeling my brakes aren't working quite the way they should. When driving I really have to put my foot into it to get the car to stop. The pedal goes about halfway down before I feel it start to work. A few weeks ago I adjusted all the shoes and blead the brakes because I had no pedal and air in the lines. One of the drums was a lil tight but after driving it a few times it worked itself out.

That's what I was thinking about too. I currently have 14x7 reverse tru spokes on the car now with spacers in the back I'm able to run them. But the keystones have a different back spacing so I'm worried they might not fit

I'm looking at a set of Keystones on craigslist for my 63 right now but wasn't sure if they were going to fit. They are 14x7 with a 2.75 back spacing. Here's a pic of them.

Thanks for the replies. I eventually used a hacksaw and was able to cut through the metal sleeve and hammer them out. It was a Lil work but not too bad

I bought some new bushings for my track bar the other day now it's time to get them swapped out. I was able to get the track bar unbolted and outta the car without too much of a struggle but I'm having a hell of a time getting the metal sleeve out. Anyone got any tips on getting them out?

Ok cool that's much better if I don't have to take it all the way out. I'll have to get a copy of the body manual the chassis one has been real helpful. Thanks for all the replys.

Thanks exactly what I needed to know. I ordered a carpet kit and was trying to figure out how it came out. I have my Chassis service manual but it didn't have anything about the console in it.

Anyone know how to remove the center console on a 63 Rivi?