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The speedometer shows 06345 I’m sure it’s turned over at least once

This morning I decided to drain a couple of quarts from the transmission, 2 actually, and add some fresh fluid. The old fluid was pretty dirty. Took it for a test drive and after about 10 mins it was back to normal again. I’ll have to take it on a few more drives and see how she does. Seeing how dirty the fluid was I think I’ll just drain all of it and replace it with fresh fluid. I don’t doubt a complete rebuild is in my future, everything on this car is original and untouched. Except for the things I’ve had to replace that broke. Lol but hopefully I can keep this old girl running just a little longer.

Sounds like it’s a pretty involved job. Something I’m not in the position of doing at the moment. I was hoping it would be an easier job. I’m in the middle of moving from California to Texas. Looks like I’ll be removing my transmission when I get settled in Texas 🤦‍♂️Thanks so much

I’m guessing this pump is inside the transmission. Does the transmission and motor have to be separated I order to replace it? Thanks 🙏

Warm or cold it hesitates to go into gear

Thanks for the advice. I did just that this afternoon and fluid level was fine

I’m having problems with my transmission getting in gear, both drive and reverse. When I put it in drive or reverse it doesn’t kick in like it’s supposed to do. If I give it gas there is a delay before it will start moving forward or reverse. I’ve noticed that with higher RPM’s it will engage faster but still not the way it’s supposed to be. Once the car is rolling it accelerates just fine. But will do it again when I come to a stop. I checked the fluid and it reads full. I tried to do a search on this forum but didn’t find anything related to the problems I’m experiencing. I’m hoping someone here might be able to shed some light for me.

After work today I connected the stator rod to the carburetor linkage. Then took it for a drive through the neighborhood. The freeway was bumper to bumper with traffic so I couldn’t take it on the highway. First thing I noticed was it gave me a harder pedal. I had to put all my strength into it. I’m sure it is in desperate need of some lubrication. From a stop the pedal feels normal until I push into it. But other then that it drove great! It actually drives better then it has ever been. I got up to about 30mph and stepped on it till probably around 55-60mph. It didn’t have a kick down feel to it when I stepped on it like I expected it to. It had more of a smooth increase of. speed I checked my linkage with what the book said. And Everything looks in accordance. My linkage looks to be further apart then the stock version. Her are some pics of the linkage close up both wide open and closed.

Yeah driving in the heat is no fun, it’s been in the 100’s lately here. You add that with traffic and it’s a nightmare! I have been looking into the vintage air kits they have. Those might be a good option.

Thank you so much for your opinions they are greatly appreciated. And I agree make due parts are just not gonna cut it. They haven’t done well so far. I’ll take your advice and search for the right parts.

One of the members on here contacted me and said he has a Rochester 4GC carb he would sell me. I think I’ll pick that up and rebuild it and hopefully it will get me closer to running better

No I don’t have the bracket but I’m sure I can secure it to the firewall somewhere. A few years back I replaced all the rubber lines

Oh ok yeah I don’t have a/c. Wish I did though

I checked on the vacuum lines today and I had the correct hose going to the vacuum advance. next I checked to see if the carb was getting gas through the jets. It’s getting a healthy squirt in both front barrels but I didn’t see anything in the secondaries. Does anyone have a like to the check valvei need for the power brakes? I read in the manual all about it but I doesn’t show it in the diagram?

Oh ok I got it thanks. I’ll have to start searching for a correct carb.

Yes I know it’s always frowned upon using those glass filters. I should get the correct one so I can hook up the return line as well. What is the purpose of the dash pot? Is it necessary? It sounds like I would benefit from having the correct carburetor on the car. I’ll have to do some searching and see if I can fine one.

Ok I’ll hook it up tonight and see how it works out. And check to see I have the correct vacuum port connected. Sounds like an easy check. Yes I do have the chassis manual as well as the body manual. They both have been big help. I’ll take a look in it tonight and see if I can see wheee that one way valve you are talking about is located.

Here’s a close up pic of the transmission kick down and the carb linkage. It looks like it will slide right in that hole.

Here are some more pics of the carb and brake hose. What’s this one way valve you peak of? in the second pic you can see the transmission kick down linkage sitting on top of the valve cover

I took it for a cruise after work today to see how things were after I tinkered with it last night. I found that the car performs much better but there still is a slight hesitation when you punch the accelerator during a cruise. Off the line it is a little sluggish but not too bad. This is much better then it was before when it would just simply nose dive till you backed off a bit. It never smoked but it did spit out black soot and was wet to the touch (it would leave black marks on the drive way from the pipes) that is now gone 👍 Also I used to be able to start it without using the choke (it has a manual choke) now it needs the choke on for a cold start. Now to to answer some of your questions and suggestions. The fuel pump is fairly new I replaced it about a year ago. I did check the glass fuel filter and there is some debris in it so I’ll clean that out. I have not replaced the points god knows how old they are. I don’t have a dwell meter so I’ll have to get one but I heard you can gap these with a feeler gauge. Yes it is a 63 I should have said that in the first post. 401 motor also. The kick down linkage wasn’t hooked up when I got the car and I just never did. I’m guessing I should get that hooked up. As for the vacuum I have one post coming from the back of the carb to the passenger valve cover pcv valve. The front left small port is going to the vacuum advance on the distributor and the middle big one and the drivers side small one are both plugged.

Yesterday while driving home from a show my car started to hesitate under light acceleration the whole way home. It was fine off the line but once you got moving and tried to step on the gas it would fall on it’s face. The car has been fine all the way up to this point. It has a Carter AFB with a manual choke. I don’t believe it’s the original carb. The numbers on it are 9605s. About 8 years ago I had the carburetor rebuilt at a local shop because I was having issues with it running properly. And that fixed things all the way up to this point. I’ve always had a bunch of black soot coming out my tailpipes so I figured my carb needed some adjusting and that would take care of the bog issue. I spent about an hour last night adjusting the carb and driving around the block several times but just couldn’t get it right. At times it would get worse and some times it would get better but never got perfect. I checked the vacuum lines and they looked good I’m going to buy some carb cleaner after work today and spray around and look for any leaks. Is there anything else I should be looking at? Did I not get the idle mixture screws right? The car doesn’t see that many miles so I would think that the carb rebuild would still be good

Ok yeah that seems pretty straight forward. Thanks that helps out a lot. I like the idea of having the low beams on while the high beams are on. The more visibility the better especially with these fine California roads! I th8nk I’ll go that route. Thanks again

I’m in the middle of adding some phantom headlights in my 63. Like Steelman I used mid 90’s GM headlights and mounted them in the fenders. My question is on how to wire these up? I have the original plugs that came with the GM headlights they have 2 wires each. And the 63 has 2 wires for the high beams and 3 wires for the low beams. That I can tell from my book. Now what do I connect to what? 🤨

That’s a good idea. Like you said those top post battery clamps always seem to run out of clamping space

We’ll I think I’ve fixed the problem. It seemed to be a connection problem on the positive terminal. I’ve had the battery cables on and off over a dozen times trying to figure it out it’s crazy. But I connected both battery cables this last time and tried to start the car. Turned the key to ON and my air compressors kicked on so that was a good sign tried to start it and it started to crank but instantly had no juice. As I cranked it I could see a little spark coming from the positive terminal. So I disconnected the positive cable and re connected it and tried again same thing happed. This happened a few times. Then I tightened the hell out of the positive cable and vroom it fired right up. And every time after. Yes!!! I put the multimeter on the battery and it showed 12.8 volts and climbed all the way to 13.51 then it dropped down to around 13.40 and stayed there. Alternator showed the same reading. It’s crazy how something so simple managed to evade me🙃 all this time. But at least it was something simple. Thanks to everyone who offered up some suggestions they were greatly appreciated. It’s alway good to get a fresh set of eyes (or ears) when you’ve been banging your head against the wall trying to figure things out.