Highlander160
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Posts posted by Highlander160
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You mean this? This is an R9 OD unit. The solenoid and governor are still attached, you will need to source a cable and relay box. Worth every dollar and hour invested since the 356 is arguably the best Packard engine, ever. 9 mains, conservatively rated at 160HP, with OD will roll at todays freeway speeds with no effort, won't even break a sweat. You can PM me here, or:
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Who's the top recommended porcelain service these days. Years ago I used Porcelain Industries in TN so I'll try to look em up in my old files. Failing that, who's the best these days? Also, any truth to the idea of doing ceramic inside 1st to limit the heat that reaches the outside surfaces? Thanks in advance...
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Lets roll this up again. It never did get brakes but a new battery was installed. The bottom line price is $4300. I think that's really fair for a car with so much "information" still showing. The interior is so complete vs many that just tossed all that small trim in the trash. Great car, someone who's a Stude fan really needs this one...
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Still no clue on these:
Those look like outside hood latches, similar to some Packard models. I can't say for sure but it reminds me of such. Those 3 speedometer/gauge clusters are sorta kool.
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I'm right there too John. Since when does dirt have value? You'd have to be the biggest freakin fool in the game to claim the pidgeon schtick all over the car has value, but damn if some don't think it does!
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I would think cars owned by the studio that did the flick would have some paper to back em up. Ownership history today is as easy as a keyboard. But let's assume for just a moment that it WAS once owned by them as a back up. BIG F--KIN DEAL! Right? Does it matter? Does the real collector car community hold such BS so dear? Someone got swept up in it last year and dropped a 7 figure bid on THE ONE. A well built and "styled" fastback, 67-8, with a real good FE motor and tasteful metallic finish without too much sculpting takes about $150-175K to build. Give a show pedigree with a couple wins and you can expect to break even on an open sale or at the right auction. But the ruse that it's THE movie car? Dammit, there's that PT Barnum thing again! I'm going to predict the car dies at under $500K, more realistically like about $225-250K.
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Maybe that's a good thing....it shows that there are younger enthusiasts on this forum who don't know about how keys and parking lights were configured years ago.
I give decent quarter to the young set, but when guys older than I (57) hit me up with this, grrrrr...
Tires too. In the habit today of pressures over 32PSI with our modern radials, some a lot higher, how many 30s cars are running around at 28-30 like thy should be? Not many. That change makes a HUGE difference in ride and control over tar strips. It's the little things that make a big difference when you add em all up.
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Eleanor? Why does P.T. Barnum keep entering my thoughts on this?
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I'm an odd duck when it comes to those 2 seat Mercedes models. I freakin hate em! Makes me think poser dope dealer or foreign lounge lizard (!), but apparently that's just me. They sure made a bunch of em. Then again, 2 $125K window stickered Mercedes models, an 03 and 04, just went to 20% of their original price in Chicago last weekend. One took it, one didn't. I know the discussion is on the older models and not those, but does it add or take away from the versions you guys are speaking of? I also never thought I'd see the day when 190SLs would top 6 figures at auction, but that's happening too. I recall being able to buy a nice clean one for about $25K, and not much more for a fully restored version. Think 05-6-7 value of those vs today. Didn't see that one coming at all. You can't go wrong buying what you like. Desire and enthusiasm can be contagious when you're selling. Your desire can sometimes infect a prospective buyer the same way and "voila!", sold. I've always felt that in general terms you can always do as good as the rate of inflation and significant items, cars, art, and countless other collector bits, prove this out. Just avoid the occasional "rush", don't speculate too much, use the stuff you buy often, and if it's about the dollars then take the profit regardless of the percentage. I'd rather sell 20 cars for a $1000 profit than try to make $20K on just one, but I love the action, the dance, the game. I don't do it all the time either. No desire for that to become stale or pay my bills. It's the "juice" for me, but I can't stress enough that that's me, not everyone.
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I lose interest a 1/2 dozen times a day. But then again I do this schtick day in day out. Walk away, have a smoke, get a coffee, chase momma around the house, whatever. When you go back at it you're glad you did. Having everything you need is a booster too. I'm sort of picky in that I want to stay on "A-B-C" and not jump around on any project. That's mine or a client. Of course I can polish tid bits or maybe do some other later detail at any time. In my case, my 61 bubble top Chev needs some floor work. Could I get the hood done (needs nothing), the doors (need nothing), maybe get started on the interior since I have most of it? Sure, but the flow is screwed up. Do all of that then go backward and tear out the floor? Not me. Then again I seem to have so much to do I'll never die.
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So the key thing, are some of you so locked (no pun intended) into 1972 that you've lost the memory of what key does what? Ignition and doors? SAME KEY. Glovebox and trunk, SAME KEY, usually the rounded head. The ignition key worked the doors through 1972 (or maybe 73?) on most cars. The other one is those who yell about the new wiring harness they bought is wrong because it turns off the parking lights when the headlights are on. Yeah, like a 48 Packard lighted both at all times. Whisky Tango Foxtrot, makes me crazy sometimes to hear and read some of this stuff.
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If you're going to Baltimore drop it in MI. PM me for details if you're so inclined.
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If only you had a correct 1940 title
The VIN and title match. There's a date stamped in the door jamb just above the VIN tag that reads 12 24. Sale date? VIN on title starts N39417XXX. VIN on door tag (VIN plate) reads 417XXX. I was hoping to get some feedback on how these were ID'd. If it were sold in 39 would the MSO, or whatever was used in the dealer network, begin with a build date? Does the "N39" on the paper mean it was built in Nov 1939? I can ID Packards, Fords and most any musclecar just on numbers here and there along with knowledge of several other marques, yet Studebakers have never really been in my radar. I'm going to say the car does indeed have the correct title, tagged the way it was in 1939. I'd imagine if one were willing they could get that single portion transposed to 1940 if it meant that much to them. It's a great buy about to get better in a couple days with a new battery and brakes working. Let's just say the price will be much less negotiable by the weekend.
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And this after the post about values? Couldn't make this up if you tried!!
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A wise man realizes that we all have our limitsand expertise. Many times when a person attempts something beyond their expertise it ends up costing more.
I remember seeing a sign in a repair shop that said " our fix it rate is doubled if you attempted a fix and failed " !
Wayne
I can do most everything myself on most any car. I'd love to be able to just write the checks, but perhaps that might be an unfair advantage since I have the years on the other side of such a thing. "Do what you love and you'll never work a day in your life." BULLSH---, uh, BALONEY!!! Sorry, almost went into character there...
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Investment? If you're sharp, spend at least a couple hrs a day, 7 days a week reviewing sales figures, have the real estate to store them in good order, then the word investment might apply. Back in the late 80s you could buy a well restored open Model A Ford for right around $20K max. Usually mid to high teens was the real price. Say you bought 10 of them and kept them up, enjoyed all they had to offer, each was still in show condition, what you have today? More $$$$? You just might since back then real parts were used more often than the repop stuff so prevailent in today's restorations. Do you remove the rent, heat, insurance costs? Maybe yes, maybe no. But let's forget the cherished Model A.
It's 1982. You can shag up ANY big block muscle car in what we call today "survivor" condition for well under $10K. That includes HEMI Mopars and even the occasional Boss 429. Say you bought $50K worth of those fuel thristy monsters, drained them of their fluids, put em in the air, fogged their engines, essentially did what you had to do to make sure they'll light up and run today. If you bought the right ones you might have $500K or more today. Was it worth the effort? Sure it was. What else would you do? Invest in real estate? Play on Wall St where some pimple-faced prick cooked the books and stole your loot? That little bastid can't do that to your cars, can he?
There are better ways to invest money than in cars. If you want to do car investments you better be sharp, better know what's hot and why, better dump when the fever is rising instead of "...I'll hold out, it has to go higher..." because more times than not it doesn't. Bubbles burst, trends change, certain things become more HISTORICALLY SIGNIFICANT with time, some become oddities. What's a $250K billet-laiden street rod worth today? Not even close to what someone built in 1951 or 1961 and kept it like new since. Not even as much as some notable survivor customs. And as all of that has been said, did we ever think we'd see $4,000,000 price tags on a Corvette? Sure, there's only 20-some of those ever built, but holy butt munch, IT'S A FREAKIN CHEVY! I won't even begin to talk about the same amount for a Hamtramk dumpster because it's a HEMI. Yes, I called a HEMI 'Cuda conv a dumpster. Ever drive one? I did for the better part of a year and was glad to sell it, although mine was a 70 383 4spd cpe. I had $1500 in it and dumped it for $6,750 to buy a house, so that should tell the era I sold it.
Kool topic, who's next?
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It would help if the model year was known too. I know 32-34 used what I like to call "aluminum wireon" that gets nailed down then folded over. It's best with 2 helpers at times to keep that aluminum trim nice and straight. The top material gets sealed to the body, the trim part gets sealed to the material, then the fold-over portion gets it's nails sealed. I've found that black strip caulk, still available from 3M, is the best sealant for ease of handling, accuracy, long life, and easy clean up. Now I'm really gonna get some of you running for your parts books. What color is the top material supposed to be? The answer, body color. An additive was sold to make the lacquer flexible. It's in the book so enjoy the search.
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Is the price too low? This is a great car that needs very little to get back on the road. Someone "bought it" at Hershey and then pulled a no show, no call, so it's still available.
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It is titled as a 39 and I told the owner the same thing, that it was titled in the year sold.
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<article>
1939 Commander 4r sedan in well above average condition. Original car with the exception of 1 repaint. Rare and desireable accessories as pictured like the Comet sun visor and center bumper guards, original interior that could be repaired or at least it's all there to redo. It runs quiet with no knocks (hasn't run since 95 until yesterday). A lot of the chrome could be cleaned and left alone. A great car for AACA class HPOF or just a nice cruiser with a little TLC. It needs brakes from sitting (pedal goes to the floor) and surely the fuel system cleaned out. Look at the pictures and you can tell a lot about it's condition. An honest car priced to sell @ $4850 or near offer. Will be at Hershey next week, leaving Tues AM, spaces CU51 thru CU57, or contact me in the usual manner like a PM here or at:The Enthusiast Garage734 637 1421</article>
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"I just want a driver"
'I understand, but can you tell me what you'd accept unfinished?'
"Well, none of it. What do you mean?"
'Should I do quicky incomplete body work or do that right? What about the final cut and polish, can we skip that?'
"No and no, I don't get it. Just because I want a driver?"
'Will what you do with the car have an effect upon how I finish it? Of course not, but where do I cut my process to meet your budget?'
"Just charge me less money, what's the problem?"
'Ok, bring it in on Feb 30th and we'll get started."
That was a real conversation about 7yrs ago.
I was once semi-scolded by a car show visitor. When he asked how long it took to restore a certain 34 Packard I told him just short of 3500hrs.
"3500 HOURS? I DARE SAY, WOULDN'T THAT PAY FOR A FEW COLLEGE EDUCATIONS?"
"F---in eh, it paid for mine."
A gentleman was concerned, adding up what he'd spent on a significant senior Packard conv and the hours to restore; "...I'd have every dollar it's worth in it when you got done if I go through with this."
'I suppose that's possible, but I'm missing the point.'
"There's nothing left for me at the end, and you act like it's no big deal."
'Who's car is it?'
"Well it's mine! What a dumb question!"
'So, again, what's the problem? YOU do a car YOUR way, YOUR color, leather, and there's nothing left?' (I really knew what he meant...)
"Nope, nothing left for me. I end up spending almost every dollar it's worth on the car and the work."
'You provide the car, I'll provide the labor and overhead, you provide all the materials and out-sourced service. We'll show it once when it's done then sell it, I'll get paid back for my labor, you get your money back on the car and materials, we then split the profit. How's that?'
"I'm not doing that!"
'Why not?'
"IT'S MY CAR!!"
'Good afternoon sir, can I help you?'
He left in a huff. Sometimes saying 'No' is more profitable than 'Yes'. These are real conversations I've had over the years, and all I can say about them is that the entertainment is sometimes priceless. And it's not just restoration, it's all of this car stuff. Years ago a guy's hood blew off his drag racer and cracked the scoop and hood corner real good (he'd forgotten to Dzus it down). "I need this fixed fast and cheap" 'Good luck with that. I'm not cheap.' "Well you are now, take it with you." 'Again, good luck with that...' He went to Walmart and bought a fiberglass kit and 2 rattle cans of black paint, did one of the most sloppy and laughable repairs I'd ever seen, then went to the track the following week and was telling folks "Look what Jocko calls good work...", angry that I refused his business. While a black eye and shoe leather suppository would be the right answer I just stood there. 3 of our fellow racers took him to task in a really hardcore fashion, one wanting to apply the black eye as well, yet I'm glad that didn't happen. He spent some very lonely nights racing for the next several weeks. I hadn't done any business with those guys, they simply knew better. And after those and others too numerous to mention, I still love what I do and still value the folks I do it with. That value is impossible to measure in dollars because it's truly priceless.
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I have a very positive and disciplined outlook to my craft. I'm as sincere as can be when I mention the relationships I've had, have and indeed look forward to. My advertising budget for over 40yrs wouldn't buy Wendal a gallon of paint. My travel expenses removed from that? Well we have to show up now and then to "represent" as they say in today's vernacular. Finished cars that are known from significant collections, or indeed restored by known craftsmen, break value records all the time and always have. Still, that's a huge intagible topic. Who remembers the early 90s when every collector car publication essentially told people it was stupid (many actually called it stupid) to restore or have a car restored? Us "lifers" most likely recall that quite clear. As I said before, I just opened a shop again based on demand and I was literally off the radar for nearly 2yrs. I guess it's beyond words. There's a certain vibe to this life, a rewarding one at that, and it becomes something more than sandpaper and welding sparks. More than paint fumes and axle grease, more than the burps and farts of that 1st fire of the engine. You can't sell that, justify it, explain it, or even put a value on it. You either "get it" or you don't and that's a good thing in my honest opinion. Like those from the early 70s and through today, when a friend and I are watching the car get judged for the 1st time it's like your kid at their 1st school recital or ball game. And yet nobody, NOBODY, needs this. It's so far beyond food and shelter, daily transportation, and any number of life's requirements, but it's still a significant industry in more places than our beloved USA. Good luck Wendal. I hope some of this was helpful.
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Some of you are fairly hard on us craftsmen. I've done 2 complete Mopar restorations minus mechanical. One scored a "Silver" in 1000pt judging, missing a "Gold" by 25pts. The 25pts were for dirt, missing the color codes on the rear axle and a ground strap from the firewall to the 426 HEMI under the hood. None of those were in my deal as the owner wanted to do the final build. It was a 69 Road Runner that needed both 1/4 panels, serious metal straightening on the doors, floor work and 1 partial rocker panel. Including engine installation and running the body wiring harness there was just under 1000 hrs in the body and about 150hrs for detailed OEM assembly of the K member, harness and instrument panel. The rest was on him like window regulators and glass, weather stripping, interior, and all the other incidentals that make a National Champion restoration. Materials ran about $1500 give or take a few and all out sourced things like chrome and incidental part restoration was on him as well. Back then my shop rate was $45/hr. Did he get sodomized or did he get "his car" his way? He sent me a HEMI Charger next that I only did body restoration, K member and rear axle installation. The car came from a shop that had it for 2yrs and their frame repair (mild hit to the left front) amounted to bumping the crush in the sub rail and skinning it with mud (!) vs having it tied to a frame rack and having it pulled. Finished in B7 blue with a white vinyl top and white bumble bee stripe (also on me), there were 500 and some hrs in that one. It was painted as a completely assembled body so that all the areas missed by the OEM were duplicated like near the door hinges and under the front fenders. Big car to be running around with gun in hand and opening and closing doors, hood and deck, no?
I suppose I'll always defend restoration as the life has been very good to me and my family. I've made a lot of friends and long term relationships over 4 decades. In some of my specialized skills I still have 100% customer satisfaction since 1973. All of us (restoration techs) seem to get a bad rap now and then because we have to be paid, and most of us have seen "backyard" restorations come in too. All I can say in defense of this craft is that it's one sure way to know EXACTLY what you have. I'm sure these 1 week wonder shows and build/sell fantasies that make TV fun for car guys have an effect on a few folks. Yes, I have been asked why it takes so long when they do it on TV in a week. 30+ people around the clock at $100/hr is $72K minimum. Add the hrs behind the scenes of building or securing an engine, having the interior and glass ready ahead of time, the cost when it's "Christmas" and all the new stuff comes from suppliers, those builds are $150K on the low side. It's not a practice for the faint of wallet to be sure, but I won't advise someone to spend like that on some 307 2bbl Camaro vs a gennie COPO, or to dump 6 figures in a Packard 120 4dr instead of an earlier Senior series. And you think restoration is bad? Stay away from professional street rod and "Pro Touring" builds. $100K is a good garage full of parts before the 1st piece of sandpaper gets folded. It's surely NOT for everyone, only those who have a vision and the means to see it through in every detail.
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I agree with the above. Avoid a "body shop" like the black plague. The difference in production vs restoration is almost too much to put into words. While there are indeed replacement panels available for 60s cars, I can tell you from hands-on experience that most are pure garbage to work with. The shape is close, it "looks like" the right part, and there is where it ends. The metal is typically .015 less than the OEM which makes doing a proper butt weld nearly a masochistic endeavor. Now that it's been welded in place the filling required to get it to look right is disgusting. In order to get by this it's a better choice to spend the time and trouble of locating a western no rust part supplier, get and restore an OEM piece before it gets installed. I typicaly refuse to put "import" panels on 60s cars, and I personally can't justify the added expense required. There's so much to consider in restoration that this is a hard question to answer. I've done it for the better part of 40yrs and have made many friends and happy clients along the way. I've found it best to establish a partnership with the client. Not finacial, but the goal and the journey. You have to feel as though you and your chosen craftsman are pulling the same rope in the same direction. The money is a moot point. Everything costs $$$$ and more than in days past. How much is a simple gallon of gas these days? That should answer why a gallon of premium clear costs nearly $400/pkg, and you'll need 2. Add up primers, sealers, fillers, seam sealants, polishes and compounds, all with PETROLEUM DISTILLATES in them. $2500 is a low estimate for materials alone and there's not much left at the end of it all.
Does this help? Is it good news or bad? I just opened a shop this month, again, after I sort of semi-retired due to demand. My introductory rate for full restoration is much lower than the national average, and not because I'm trolling for work, more like a bit of "give back" to a community that has served me well for the better part of my professional career. Good luck with your search, and references are everything. My mission statement is simple. "Where you'd send a friend." That should say it clear enough, no? If I can help drop a PM and I'll do my best.
:D:D
Question 1934 Packard 12 cylinder
in Packard
Posted
Yes they are, a CCCA "project" found in the classifieds of the nat'l newsletter. FWIW, I always set the points in the car/engine. Using the balancer, #1 and #6 are marked. Bring it to the compression stroke of #1 1st and set it at 8deg BTDC while taking up the backlash in the rotor (yes a helper is best to accomplish this). Go to #6 and do the same for the other set of points. Once fully warmed up you need to adjust the mixture scews until any and all blubbering sounds are gone from the tail pipe. You may have to raise and lower the RPMs a few times to get it right on. The final test, take a nickel and balance it on edge at the automatic choke mounting point...while it's running (!). Yes, it will stand there for quite a while with only the air from the fan that might knock it over. Deeper problems may exist at higher speeds if it's old and cranky, and at that point I'd recommend removing, otherwise, enjoy. One of the smoothest and most silent engines of the classic era.