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startergenrebuilder

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Posts posted by startergenrebuilder

    Model G starter/generator front bearing replacement

    in Dodge & Dodge Brothers

    Posted

    Dave,

    I may have an exploded diagram of that unit. Getting a sealed bearing for the rear is not as easy as it is for the front. It's an odd size and can only be accomplished if you make a sleeve for the shaft or housing. I can't recall which was easier right off the top of my head. I also believe they used two different sized bearing on the rear depending on year or something along that line. It was probably a two piece magneto style bearing originally. If he needs to shim the bearing, tell him to get a wave washer for the correct OD of that bearing. Unless of coarse I'm mis-understanding the issue here. Let me know if I can help you out.

    -Jason

    Studebaker battery ground

    in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne

    Posted

    I'm not saying that the starter is not bad, theres a decent chance you have issues there, but I'd still start with the battery. Keep in mind you only need very little current to run the things you are saying work until starter gets in the picture and you need several hundred amps to run the starter. Cables are very important, but even a bad connection to the starter wouldn't drain your battery right away. It would however produce a no start since the starter would not be able to get the adequate amount of current needed for the starter to deliver enough torque to turn the engine over like it should. If you had a bad connection, broken wire or under sized cable, you would get a no start or slow crank, but battery would not drop off like you are experiencing.

    Back to the polarity issue. It's real easy to check the polarity of your battery. Take a volt meter and stick the red (+) lead on the + side of the battery and take the black (-) lead and place it on the - side of the battery. If it reads lets say 6.4 volts, it's ok, if it reads -6.4 volts, it's been reversed. I'm not sure if it has been mentioned here or not, but if you drain a battery to a completely flat state, you can then charge it reverse polarity so the + & - posts are now reversed. Not to get too side-tracked, but here's a story that sort of applies.

    Modern starters are what they call permanent magnet style and do not have wire wound field coils, they have actual magnets inside them. They DO care about polarity and will crank backwards if wired in reverse polarity. I've had a couple customers bring in starters to be checked and could find nothing wrong, but they still complain that it won't crank engine just spins like drive clutch is slipping. The first one took a while to figure out, but what they had done was leave something on and battery drained completely. When they re-charged the battery they accidentally reversed charger leads and charged the battery up reverse polarity. Now starter cranks backwards.

    Keep me-us posted as to what you find. Good Luck!

    -Jason

    Studebaker battery ground

    in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne

    Posted

    I can confirm that the starter indeed does not care what the battery polarity is. The generator really doesn't care either. Sometimes it needs to be polarized, but it will actually polarize itself in a lot of cases.

    If your starter draws the battery dead that quickly I would suspect a bad battery. Even a starter that is shorted out completely shouldn't drain a battery after trying it for a second or two. Have you had the battery load tested? When you say you charge the battery and everything works fine until you use the starter, what do you mean by everything works fine?

    I'd be happy to try and help you out if you have any troubles figuring this out.

    Good Luck,

    Jason

    Questions on Generator to Alternator Conversion

    in Technical

    Posted

    Joe,

    Delco (as far as I know) never made 1-wire regulators. I doubt you'll find the AC turn on regulator anywhere except through a rebuilder. I'm not sure what number they would use, it depends on who they buy from, but there is no AC Delco numbers and I don't know of any Napa or Carquest, Standard Ignition numbers.

    I agree with your parts store guys knowledge comment, I was referring more to the starter and alternator rebuilder guys shop. Although I've heard some horror stories of dealing with some of these guys as well. I agree with you, do your homework and be informed. My only point was to try and support the local guys if you can. I understand the busy schedule thing. I just don't like the idea that were moving towards a nation of websites and warehouses. I see it often, guys want me to be there to test an alternator or help them troubleshoot a problem, but then they'll turn around and cut my throat for 10 bucks saved on an import unit over the internet. I'm not looking to start a war here, just offering my opinion from my perspective. I see your side as well.

    -Jason

    Questions on Generator to Alternator Conversion

    in Technical

    Posted

    Joe,

    Sorry for being a little vague. The wiring differences are all internal. Still fairly simple to install, the regulator comes with a instruction sheet and diagram. Being a 1-wire, it's still the same on the outside.

    Quoted from above: "The beauty of a stock three wire 12SI is that parts, including the regulator or a complete alternator, are available at any parts store in the country at any time of the day or night."

    Keep in mind that this "beauty" has put a lot of knowledgeable electrical rebuilders out of business. These all hour of the day parts stores carry Mexico and China remanufactured units and the techs at these stores are usually not very good for technical advice if your are in need. I hate to sound like a car salesman, but it's better for all of us if you can wait for regular business hours during the week and go see a local rebuild shop. In my opinion, you'd be better off trying to support your local Carquest, NAPA or other locally owned parts store. I know they don't usually carry the same late night and weekend hours, but I feel it's better option for everyone in the long run. Your luck of getting some good advice and technical help as well as having better testing equipment to diagnose your problem is far better at a rebuild shop also. Just my two cents.

    You should be able to find the regulator I was referring to earlier at most rebuild shops. Ask for an AC turn on self exciting 10/12SI regulator.

    Good Luck. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

    -Jason

    Solid State Voltage Regulator

    in Chevrolet & GMC - General

    Posted

    Mike,

    There are no electronic replacements available anymore. There used to be some aftermarkets made, but are no longer being produced. I'd be happy to convert yours to solid state if your interested. If you don't want to change yours, I should be able to convert an aftermarket regulator that I have in stock that will replace yours.

    A diode can only be used to convert cutouts to solid state, there's more to a regulator that needs to be addressed.

    Let me know if anyone has any questions.

    -Jason

    Questions on Generator to Alternator Conversion

    in Technical

    Posted

    I'd like to try and clear a few things up. First thing, the RPM's on tractors that people throw these one wire alternators a lot of times on is actually even lower than the automotive applications. As for solutions to your problem. I carry a newer version of the one wire regulator that kicks in a lot lower than the old versions. It wires in totally different, but I've had good luck with them. The problem is that turn on speed is largely determined by the windings inside of the alternator and you have no idea what combination of windings are in each alternator unless it gets tested after installing regulator. The other option for repairing yours is installing a 3-wire regulator like has been discussed earlier. I carry a plug that plugs in to the 3-wire regulator. One wire loops over to the battery stud on the alternator and the 2nd wire comes as a long lead with a diode in it that needs to be wired in to a keyed ignition source. The reason for the diode is so you don't backfeed your ignition and keep the car running when you try and shut it off. It's a handy little kit with plug and leads and it installs very easily. There are some better low RPM 1-wire solutions, but you are dealing with the most common one because they're cheap and easy to come by. If anyone has other questions, feel free to contact me.

    Good Luck Everyone!

    -Jason

    Vic 6 charging system.

    in Dodge & Dodge Brothers

    Posted

    Before you take it off, I may be able to help you by giving you a few tests to do on the car first. It is not a good idea to remove the battery cable while running as a test, it can create a voltage spike and cause damage to some things in the system. Do you have a volt meter? First step is to see what the voltage is when running. It should read 6.2-6.5 when sitting and jump to over 7 volts when the engine runs and the generator starts charging. Give the throttle a quick boost to make sure the generator excites (if it's going to). The next step would be to polarize the generator and if still no charge then we can bypass the cutout and eliminate that from the equation. Feel free to contact me directly if needed. I'd be glad to help. If your generator and cutout end up needing service, I can help you there too.

    -Jason

    Test voltage regulator

    in Technical

    Posted · Edited by startergenrebuilder (see edit history)

    Keep in mind that by grounding the field wire, you are only bypassing the field control portion of the generator. That still leaves the cutout portion of the regulator in circuit. If you want to bypass the regulator all together, you would need to jumper the "BAT" & "GEN" wires together and then ground the field wire. Another way to do this without the jumper wire is to remove the regulator cover and manually close the cutout points with your finger. By the way, all of these should be done momentarily as a quick check only.

    If you ever need any help, feel free to call or email me.

    -Jason

    Delco-Remy 1111775 distributor

    in Technical

    Posted

    Ok, I can supply you with the points, cap, rotor and condenser, but no luck on the correct shaft and bushings. I would have to machine new bushings and match up the shaft to another that might need slight modifications. All that would require me to have the distributor in my shop. I will send you an email with this information as well.

    -Jason

    Delco-Remy 1111775 distributor

    in Technical

    Posted

    I may be able to help with points, cap, rotor and condensor. It's pretty rare to be able to find the right size bushing, I usually machine new ones. You can get a perfect fit that way too. I doubt you'll find the right shaft either unless it is shared with a more common distributor. A lot of times I can match the shaft up with one that just needs a minor adjustment like shaft shortened or drilled. I'll check on parts and get back with you.

    -Jason

    Delco Remy starter drive

    in Franklin

    Posted

    Jim,

    I can help you. I carry that drive. I carry it two different ways, the original spring style or a modern style that eliminates the spring. Feel free to contact me directly and I can give you more details, my email and phone number is listed below.

    -Jason

    Starter motor

    in Lincoln & Zephyr

    Posted · Edited by startergenrebuilder (see edit history)

    I can help you out with your starter problems. I can provide you with a starter, but I usually prefer to rebuild yours. I usually convert these starters with high torque windings to help deal with the problems you are complaining of. It allows you to keep the original case and appearance while upgrading the performance. Feel free to contact me by email or phone for more information.

    -Jason

    A second, seperate, 12v system

    in Technical

    Posted

    Be aware that the one wire alternators do not charge at low RPMs (under 1500 or so, depending on the unit).
    That used to true, but we've got some decent updated technology regulators that allow them to charge fairly low RPM now. If anyone has any questions, feel free to contact me.
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