tevel

Good morning all, Should anyone of you have the specs for the rear suspension spring on a 4 doors sedan 1952 Kaiser Manhattan. Mines are tired and I would like to "re"bend them at original curve diameter. I know this not ideal, but new ones are not that easy to find, and I would like to use that solution as an interim fix. Thanks to all in advance for your help. JJ.

Sound like a good diagnostic, I will try this very soon and let you know the result... Great day. JJ.

Hi Craig. Good point. I have a 1950 Champion, so I'm going to swap the distributors and see if it solve the issue. Thanks for your help. JJ

Hello all, I'm currently working on my 1960 Lark VI and can't succeed to have the engine running on all cylinders, the dead cylinder moving from one to another with no way to understand what moves the problem between them. I first believed the the problem laid in ignition issue, but after I changed all parts (plugs, cap, rotor, points, condenser, wires and coil) and took more attention to set each part better than I have ever done before, it improve a little bit, but still not OK. The best I can have is the engine running on "5 1/2" cylinder. I also cleaned and set the carb with not more success. When the engine is at temperature, I have a noise coming from the distribution gears that make me feel it could create a camshaft offset. Now the questions I have for you are the following ones: Could a valve play not accurate create this kind of issue? Could a worn timing gear fools the engine or should this "switch off" the engine once the issue is severe enough? On the Net, I found several camshaft gears, but no crankshaft one. the camshaft one being in fibre, does that mean that it is the only one that usually wear out? The car left inactive for more than two years before I bought it. Is there something that the time could have caused? Any idea will be more than welcome.......... Many many thanks in advance for your advises. Have a great day all. JJ

Hello, I just bought a 1929 Model AA a few weeks ago and found that there was some water mixed with the oil. I thus replaced the head gasket, and (visually but carefully) checked during that operation that there was no damage on the block or the head themselves. I torqued the head at 60 lbs (30 lbs, then 40, then 50 and 60, I'm sure you all know that and do the same) and did it a second time after the first run. The problem is that I still have water in the oil and just don't understand where it can come from. Any idea on what can cause this?? Thanks a lot in advance for any advise or comment. JJ Tevel

Morning all, I just bought a 1926 AA model truck and was looking for any type of factory or workshop manuals. Could someone tell me where is the best site to download them? Thanks in advance for your help and have a great day. JJ TEVEL

Hello all, I'm currently working on my 1960 Lark VI which was assembled in Belgium (where I live), ans I need to rebuild the entire exhaust line. Does anyone have some sort of in formation on par numbers and suppliers I could contact for or some drawing I could follow to built it from universal parts. Thanks a lot in advance for your help and support. JJ

Hello all, Still no answer to that post. No one having available parts for my headlights???????? Thanks and great day. JJ.

Hi, As you can see on these pictures, the headlight bowl and reflector are OK, but I'm missing the trim and the fixture (3 first pictures) that hold the lens on it (I have the lens). Many thanks in advance for your answer. Have a great day. JJ

Morning all, I'm looking for a trim and a fixture for the head lamp lenz of my 1925 Standard Six. If any body has one set for sale or know where it can be found, I will greatly appreciate your help and support on this. Have a GREAT day all. JJ

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!!!!! Very useful links.

Morning/afternoon all, You are all right, there is nothing better than pictures to precise what is needed. I should have worked first that way. So here they are. Have a GREAT day. JJ.

Hello, I will. Thanks you very much for the advise.

Hello, Driving to a wedding ceremony with my 1925 Standard Six, I lost on of the headlamp glass with the stapping circle and plate. I'm looking for replacement parts so that I can have my old lady back to (olmost) perfect. Thanks in advance fpor every body. JJ.

Good morning all, I have an issue with my Manhattan 1952 overdrive solenoid and need to change it. I found a AC Delco ( Item 1118134) that I would like to fit on in replacement, but this one gets 4 terminals connections instead of the two on my original one. Should somebody have a wiring diagram I could use, or could somebody tell me the terminal numbers I need to use to connect it. Many thanks in advance to all for your help on this. JJ.

Sorry for not being clear enough. I'm a French speaking person (from Belgium) and might have put to much trouble in my post. I'm not looking for te part anymore as I had it printed already. My post was just to communicate to those who are looking for the same kind of part that the person who made mine could help them. Sorry again for the confusion. Great day to all.......... JJ.

Good morning all, Looking after a pretty scarce ignition rotor for my WAGNER K815 distributor, I had 3D printed by one of my colleague. He just needs a picture and the dimentions of the original rotor and of the distributor shaft, he then can print a part that works really well. The only thing you need to add on is the small brass contact that flow the spark to the cap contacts. Just in case some of you are inerested, here is his mail address carrieri@hotmail.fr Have a great day. JJ.

Good morning, I'm restoring my 1925 Standard six and I'm missing a WAGNER K815 ignition rotor. I thinl the reference is D100. Many thanks in advance for your help on this. JJ.

Morning all, I would need to buy some flexible joints for the power shaft of my 1925 Studebaker Standard six. Some advises for the installation should also be welcome. The current ones were "home made" a while ago, from a converyor belt, but they now need to be replaced. They were a bit tight as they were a little bit too tick, and I'm afraid it induced too much constrain on them between the bolts places. I guess that it was not perfect for the bearings as well. Many thanks ijn advance for your help and support on this. Have a great day all. JJ.:confused:

Hello all, Surfing on different websites those days, I read a few articles debating on the way to move from 6v to 12v without changing the starter or/and the generator. If I can understand that the starter can support the extra voltage as the amp charge will be reduced and the time it will be used in those conditions being that short that it will not have the time to heat or be damaged, I have more doubts on the statement people sometime do on generator. From what I read, a 6v generate produces 14v current before the regulator decreases it to 6v to comply with the battery and the electric equipment. It is said on those sites that if the regulator is replaced by a 12v one, the tension delivered will be changed accordingly (don't know how they should handle the positive ground). This should give two easy way to move to 12v (and finaly solve my starter weakness issue). Or we do the above changes and keep the electric equimpment in 6v (I have two 6v battery on the car) and only uses the 12v for the starter and of course the generator, or I change all the equipment to 12V. I know that this is a way of working that first seems to be strange if not risky. There was a lot of questions on those sites, but most of the people speaking about that seemed to be working this way on their vehicles for quite long time and with no issues on. The only issue that was metionned was the generator brushes life time that seems to be reduced by about 25%. I don't know if somebody on this forum has already had some experience (positive or negative) on this subject, but I would really appreciate any feedback, comment or reaction on this. And as usual........ Have fun. JJ.

Morning all. I checked evrything once again and found that the foot switch was the cause of the problem. I fortunatelly had one spare and could replace it. All is now running smouthly. Thanks to all for you good advises. Talk to you soon. JJ.

Hello, I have a Studebaker Standard Six 1925, and have lots of difficulties to start it when the engine is at running temperature. The battery is good, but the starter seems to have not enough power to have the engine turning fast enough to stzrt it. Sometime, the starter cannot run at all. When the engine is cold, the starter works pretty ok. When rhe engine is at running temperature, we can start it by pushing the car on only few meters. I checked al the connections, and they seem to be ok Any idea on what could cause this????? Many thanks in adavnce for your help JJ:confused:

Thanks a lot. This is exactly what I was looking for Have a GREAT day. JJ.

Good morning, I'm looking aft a transmission shaft flector for my 1925 Standard six. The one which is broken is the rear axel one. I'm not sure they are both the same between the axel and the gear box one, but they look similar. Also, if somebody knows if there is a special adjustment to be done when I change it, I would greatly appreciate the explanation. Many thanks in advance for your help. And as usual, HAVE FUN. JJ TEVEL

Hello Huptoy, Many thanks for your help. I built a wheel puller upon your recomendation, and succeeded to have the wheel out. Thanks again for the advise. Have a grea day. JJ.